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 |  Carb numbers -- Gary, 01/09/2003
The Holley carb that came on the 68 R-code I bought has C8OF-9510 AB 4168 913 on the airhorn and on the the Autolite tag it has C8OF A 9A3. My car came with a 4-speed. This carb does not have the kickdown lever for an automatic. Could it be possible carb was stamped wrong? Any histories of this? I'm wondering if this may not be original carb that should be on car. What are the differences in AA (manual) & AB (auto) carbs? Thanks for any infor you may provide. |
|  | Date codes, etc -- Royce Peterson, 01/09/2003
The date code on the body translates as:
9 = 1969
1= Januuary
3 = 3rd week of month
The Autolite tag says the same thing, Autolite used letters for the month designator.
The 1968 carbs did not have kickdown on the carb if for a Mustang or Cougar application.
The C8OF - AA carb is calibrated differently than the -AB. All the specs are found in the Ford Technical Service Bulletin dated July 12, 1968. Differences include the Choke spring, Fast idle cam setting, Fast idle RPM and curb idle RPM settings. Also the Air Fuel Ratio is different also.
Royce |
| | | RE: Date codes, etc -- Gary, 01/10/2003
Are these technical bulletins available and if so, how do I go about getting copies of them? Would this AB carb perform OK with the stick shift or would I have problems? I"ll probably use it until I can find an AA. The AB I have appears to be in like new condition. Thanks for your reply.-----Gary |
| | |  | The carbs are actually the same. -- Royce Peterson, 01/10/2003
Only the adjustments and the choke bimetal spring are different.
I have the original service bulletin that announces the 1968 1/2 CJ Mustangs. So far as I know it is not available anywhere. The cars came out long after the 1968 shop manual was printed so the carb, air cleaner and distributor specs were only published in the TSB.
Royce |
 | 427 marine engine -- rbask, 01/08/2003
hello
please help in a difficult matter
how can i tell if the 427 engine im about to buy is counter-clockwise one
i know it came out of a 2 engine boat
it is all taken apart for checking by the owner
and everything else seem OK....
thanks, Ralf Bask
rbask@abo.fi |
| | RE: 427 marine engine -- rbask, 01/08/2003
and also include some site (if any) with info on the marine 427
just saw some info on this site that werent promising
"the heads are low perf"
i was told that these heads are MediumRaiser- heads
" cast 390 cranks"
isnt it just a 390 if it got that crank?
How can i tell the parts apart. What should the numbers read on the crank/ heads to be the real thing?
looking forward to your answer
Ralf Bask |
| |  | Heads, crank -- Royce Peterson, 01/08/2003
The crank on a counter rotating engine has rear oil seal grooves cut opposite from a normal crank. Just have your machinist remove the grooves when he turns the crank.
Most 427's had cast cranks originally that are the same as a similar year 390 crank. Only the 1965 - 1967 Medium Riser 427's received forged cranks. The cast cranks will take a tremendous amount of abuse. Ford has always made great cast iron cranks. I would not worry about it for a street car unless you are planning on high RPM clutch drops with nitrous or supercharged assisted horsepower and a pair of slicks.
If you must have a forged crank have it checked carefully by a machinist to see if it indexes properly. These cranks have typically been through hell and got abused regularly in racing. Many companies (Crower, for example) make new billet steel cranks for serious high horsepower applications. Most of us do fine with cast cranks and don't need to spend $2000 on a billet crank.
Medium Riser heads are C5AE-F casting number. Marine heads are C6JE or C7JE to name a couple of possibilities. Look at yours and post the casting number. Marine heads are Low Riser type and can be a good choice for most street driven cars. Just install 2.09 / 1.66 valves and they will be good for most anything.
Have your machinist quote you a bid on repairing them and compare to the price of new Edelbrock aluminum FE heads. Usually it is cheaper to get the Edelbrocks which are an improved version of the factory Medium Riser design.
Royce |
| | checking engine -- Bob H., 01/08/2003
Two ways I can think of right off check the firing order arangement indist cap will be backwards on counter rotating engine and if it will turn over with starter crank it over see which way it rotates |
| | Firing order -- Barry B, 01/08/2003
Check the intake manifold, if the firing order has been ground off, it's a reverse rotation. |
| | | | somewhat more info... -- rbask, 01/09/2003
Thanks for your answers!!
I called the owner last night, he told me it was a 66 with the bulge on side of the block, crossbolted, screw-in-caps for waterpassage.
one carb manifold, casttype
this is the one turning the right way. spoke with the buyer of the other engine, he says he got the counter-clocker.
aint got the castnumbers yet, i´ll post them as soon as i get them.
it´s been sweetwater cooled
the amount of ours are small since the "grinding traces" in cylinders are still very visible, and the pistons look as new
the money for this engine is about 2K euro
is it cheap or expensive in your opinion?
Ill be back with more info as it unfolds
Ralf Bask |
| | | | | RE: somewhat more info... -- Royce Peterson, 01/09/2003
Sounds reasonable, I would buy it for that.
Royce |
| | | | | | RE: a little more info... -- DavidThayer, 01/11/2003
Watch on the casting numbers as they will both excite and confuse you. These Chris Craft blocks are the ones cast as side oilers but never machined as such. They will carry side oiler casting numbers (as side oiler molds were used to cast the blocks). The easiest way to tell is to aks the seller to look on the left side of the engine just above each crossbolt. If it is a SO then there will be 3 small hexplugs in the bulge, one above each crossbolt.
You are basically buying this for the block as the heads and intake are basic 352 type low performance stuff. A good clean standard bore block is hard to find though and this one may be well worth it. A lot of these are solid lifter engines so you may get the adjustable rocker are set up if so.
Good luck |
| | | | | | | head cast numbers -- ralf bask, 01/12/2003
is as you Royce suggested C7JE
whats really the difference between the low riser heads and the medium raiser? smaller valves? what about cc? differences in ports?
connecting rods number was C7AZ
usual 390 mustang??
are these the weakest or what?
the block number is still unknown... seller could not remember..
according to seller it was built to take both hydraulic and solid cams.. any ideas on what to expect? is that the common with the 427
thanks David, i´ll ask about the hexplugs
Ralf Bask
|
| | | | | | | | The parts (re:head cast numbers) -- Royce Peterson, 01/15/2003
Ralf,
The Low Riser heads have a port that was found to be too tall, Ford engineers found that by raising the floor of the port and making it a little wider it flowed better. The result was called the Medium Riser head.
The C7JE heads have 390 size valves usually. You can install 2.08 / 1.66 valves and they are good heads for anything except racing.
The C7AE rods are good for 500 - 600 horsepower if the bolts are replaced using ARP 2000 series fasteners and prepared properly.
Boat 427's are normally center oiler design, some can use hydraulic cams. In any case you should not wait or someone else will own the block.
Royce |
| | | | | | | | | RE: The parts (re:head cast numbers) -- David, 10/22/2004
I have a pair of Heads that have a casting #
of C4AE and a big H between 1060H, triple
spring with the cups under springs that have
4 notches for oil drain and the intake valve
have a nipple in the center about 1/8 inch
or so. What heads do i have? are they
427 low rizers or not? someone wants to
buy a tri-power 406 i have and the these heads or just extra i'm throwing in, he says there 390. Help me not make a mistake
for lack of knowledge. Thanks |
| | | | | | | NOT a sideoiler -- ralf bask, 01/12/2003
according to the buyer of the "other " engine
it has the bulge, but not the small hexplugs,
just as you expected
the pistons are also lowcomp type with dish in middle
about 9,0 ??
Ralf Bask |
| | | | | | | | RE: NOT a sideoiler -- DavidThayer, 01/12/2003
That is about right for the compression. Depending on the price though this coulld be a great deal. Slap on a set of Edelbrock heads or CJ and you will have a very good performing engine.
The Medium riser has machined chambers, larger valves and different rockershaft stands. The heads on these engines will not be low risers though, they will be standard fe 390/352 type heads. |
| | | | | | | | | sold under my nose -- ralf bask, 01/15/2003
yep, was tricked by someone... : (
the deal was done, but no money had changed hands because seller was out of town, one day later he called, someone had picked it up and left cash to his wife...
well, thats the way it goes.
I want to thank everybody for help and info on the FE-matters. I wish you well and keep up the good work.
Ralf Bask, Finland
|
| Bottom rad. Hose and the. -- leroy boy 390, 01/07/2003
Just about done with the engine install on a 67 390/mustang, one thing, the power steering belt rubs on the lower rad. hose, I wonder if when the hose was purchesed, (from a catalog), was cut to short? it seems like if were 1 or 2 inches longer it would clear the belt. |
| 428 oil pressure -- tim, 01/07/2003
i have a new rebuilt 428 scj when engine is cold
oil pressure is slow coming up but gets to 70 psi
then hot at an idle pressure drops off to 20 psi
is this normal for fe's or is there a problem?
any help would be great |
| | RE: 428 oil pressure -- Joel, 01/07/2003
That could be normal, depending on setup. Please provide more information about the rebuild and components used. Oil pump, oil weight, clearences, etc. |
| | RE: 428 oil pressure -- David, 01/07/2003
It's not impossible for pumps to be bad from the get go. I just had one that had a stuck preassure valve, blew the oil filter gasket, and some of the guys that responded to me had similar problems, low and high oil preassures. |
| | RE: 428 oil pressure -- John, 01/07/2003
The pressure you get sounds about right...I find the following is normal with a HV oil pump:
Hot Oil:
Idle: 18-22 psi
2000 rpm: 60-65 psi
max pressure: 70-80 psi
Cold oil:
indicates max of 70-80 psi
Note: 20W50 may give you the high end of the 2000 rpm and hot idle figures, while 10W30 will probably show at the lower end. The max pressure will stay the same regardless of the oil weight as it is dictated by the oil pump relief spring. The only problem is the slow rate at which the pressure builds.
I had the slow rising pressure problem once and it seemed to be from an oil pump pressure release valve that wouldn't quite close. It was sticking from the day I put it in. If a plug had popped out, I doubt you would get the 70 lbs you have. Bearing clearances could easily allow for the slightly low readings you have compared to mine. If in doubt, try another oil pump...maybe even the original one if it was a HV unit. Inspection of your existing one probably won't reveal anything. |
| 390 head -- Keke, 01/07/2003
I found my 390 this casting numbers: C7JE 6090 A.
I like to know combustion size and valve size and all information if some one knows it.
Keke
Thanks
|
| 67 428 galaxie -- Curt, 01/06/2003
i have a chance to buy a 67 428 galaxie and was wondering what the price would be, i thing the body is in pretty sad shape, so the thing that i would be buying is the motor and tranny,, what kind of heads were on the 428 in 67, i am not sure if it is a pi or not but the car is original with 76k miles on it. please give me some input. thanks
curt |
| fan clutch -- tony, 01/06/2003
I have a 68 gt 390. I've ordered a replacement thermal fan clutch and upon trying to install, the shaft on the new clutch is longer than the one I've removed, bottom line is it doesn't allow clearance to the rad. The seller's description of the part is "various applications" which includes 68 390. IDo you think this is a quality control problem or do I have the wrong clutch?
Thanks |
| | Too 'deep' = too close = wrong part. Sorry. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/06/2003
n/m |
| | | Rebuilds Are the Only Thing Available -- Martin, 01/06/2003
Nobody sell those fan clutches new anymore. Mansfied Mustang and others sell used ones. Fred Foliva in Florida rebuilds fan clutches. I bought a used fan clutch from Cascade Classics and had Fred Foliva rebuild it. It works well in my 69 Cougar with a 390IP. With freight each way I spent close to $200 on the rebuild, but have no regrets after unsucessfully having tried an electrical fan and a flex fan. |
| | | | RE: Rebuilds Are the Only Thing Available -- salid, 01/06/2003
I found one here ponycarspec@juno.com in summer 1999. Don't know if they still have them. |
| | | | | A case of false advertisement? -- tony, 01/07/2003
I'm pissed! I bought this part 4 months ago based on the item description in their catalogue. Now I'm sure they will try to pull the 30 day rule on me. But we all know we buy new parts for our stangs way in advance of actually putting them on, right. I don't understand how this retailer can advertise for an application in which it can not work. I'm out $50 and it's going to cost me $200 for a rebuild, unbelievable. How can I test the old one on a bench to see if it's still usable?
Thanks for your replys
|
| | | | | | Try 'calibrated hand' - spin and feel for decent resistance. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/07/2003
n/m |
| | | | | | RE: A case of false advertisement? (Update) -- tony, 01/07/2003
Finally got the tech support person to answer my query. He agrees this clutch will not work with all 68 390 applications, specifically those with a 3 row radiators. I'll get my refund.
Thanks again |
| | Rebuild -- x1968x, 01/07/2003
I had mine rebuilt by Fred Oliva. He did a great job imho.
See http://www.gate.net/~foliva/
I was also unable to locate a suitable replacement. |
| | | RE: Fan clutch -- Dave, 01/07/2003
I had the same problem with the 428 in my 67 Mustang. They list the Hayden 2710 as the part number and it is to long. I ended up with a Hayden 2711, (for a Lincoln BB) which is .35 inches shorted then the 2710 and it is working great. Much cheaper then the $200.00. If you go to Haydens web site they have all the dimensions posted. |
| | | | RE: Fan clutch -- tony, 01/07/2003
Outstanding Dave, that's exactly how much shaft I'm long, (I know, that's sounds weird). I'm considering Vintage Auto as recommended by x1968x, but it's good to have an alternative if the little lady doesn't sign-off on my expense voucher. |
| | | | | Dave? -- tony, 01/07/2003
Is the bolt pattern compatible for the ford replacement fan (not seven blade) with the Hayden #2711.
Thanks
|
| | | | | | RE: Dave? -- Joe, 01/08/2003
You might try napa, I was able to get one there that fit fine, no core charge either. I think it's new, and about forty bucks. |
| | | | | | | Napa Fan Clutch -- Martin, 01/08/2003
If you try Napa - or most standard parts stores - they have the fan clutches listed by application - not by dimensions. So before going there, go to Hayden's web site and look up which applications fan clutch 2711fit and go ask for the fan clutch by one of those car/engine/year combos and bring the old one for comparison. |
| | | | | | | | RE: Napa Fan Clutch -- tony, 01/08/2003
Thanks Guys I did just that. Local NAPA ordered the 2711 which has a fan mnt height of 1.40 based on Hayden's web site. Total is $43 + shipping. |
| | | | RE: Fan clutch -- Ed S., 01/10/2003
Cool!
I had the same problems Tony and you had. The big chain guys said there were two. After going through all the boxes the guy brought to me I started asking for different engine and car combination. He kept coming up with the same two boxes. Whether it was a Mustang, Falcon, and Torino or had a 200, 289, 390 or 427. I even tried different years and he brought the same two boxes. |
| | RE: fan clutch -- Ed S., 01/10/2003
Tony,
Does your original clutch have E-C80E-C stamped into the base? Also what part number did you get from Napa?
|
| | | RE: fan clutch -- Tony, 01/11/2003
Yes, that is the stamping. The NAPA part is #273370. Just installed it and its a fit. On to the underdash wire harness and heater box. Good Luck |
| | | RE: fan clutch -- Chuck Brown, 05/02/2003
> Tony,
>
> Does your original clutch have E-C80E-C stamped into the base? Also what
> part number did you get from Napa?
>
> Tony,
>
> Does your original clutch have E-C80E-C stamped into the base? Also what
> part number did you get from Napa?
>
HELP!! Have E-C80E-A fan clutch for GT390. Went to Napa andgot#273370 which is #273325 now. If you set E-C80E-A on a table and measure upwards it is 2 5/8 inches the Napa one is 3 3/8 inches. It goes into the radiator and will not work. Any suggestions?? Wher is this Hayden's web site ? |
| | | | RE: fan clutch -- Tony, 05/02/2003
Chuck,
The Hayden website is http://www.haydenauto.com, check the online catalog for the specs on the 2711. I believe that casting# is the same as my original but I'm still at work and will check later.
|
| | | | | RE: fan clutch -- Tony, 05/02/2003
The NAPA part # is 273370 which is Hayden's #2711, overall height 2.98". The one they gave you is probably the 2710 o/h 3.33", as you already know it will not fit.
Hope this helps. |
| | | | | | RE: fan clutch -- Chuck Brown, 05/02/2003
Tony,
Thanks for the information. The Napa #273370 is superseded by this number #273325 which is 3.50" and will not work. The Ford E-C80E-A is 2.625" so the Hayden 2711 at 2.98" should be alright. Just found out a place in Florida will rebuild for $139.00. Now to my next project a exhaust manifold leak at number 4 . |
| | RE: fan clutch -- Charlie, 05/04/2003
Try Imperial part number 215012
about $30 @ auto zone. Works on my 67 mustang w 3 core rad. ps and 2 belt alternator and a 428. It also worked on my dad's 68 428 mustang. Can't go wrong for the price.
Charlie |
| | RE: fan clutch -- Mike Rainey, 06/17/2004
I need 2 know what kind of fan clutch i need for my 91 ltd. i have the wrong one cause the tempature will rise when the ac is on so i need 2 wether it is a thermal or non thermal. |
| original radiator on a 390 big block mustang -- leroy boy 390, 01/03/2003
1) are these 3 or 4 core?,
2) any feed back on the ups and downs of using a fan shroud
3) any hints on "how to" attatch a fan shroud
after spending the 100 bucks?
Thanks. |
| | Rad ? -- Royce Peterson, 01/03/2003
1. Originals are 3 core.
2. You need a fan shroud,
4. Use the mounting kit available from :
http://www.mansfieldmustang.com
Royce |
| Sparkplug Wire Routing -- Rollie H., 01/03/2003
What is the best way to route the sparkplug wires on an FE? I have a 428 in a 1976 F100 and want to make these wires look pretty neat instead of just lying around. Any suggestions? |
| | RE: Sparkplug Wire Routing -- Ron Linthicum, 01/04/2003
Get a set of after market wire looms from an auto supply store( Checkers, Pep Boys etc.) Mail Order (Jegs, Summit,PAW)
Need some unique ideas then look thru a few rodding or custom truck mags. |
| | | RE: Sparkplug Wire Routing -- Rollie H., 01/04/2003
I have been looking around and found all of the wiring stuff. I just thought someone here has an FE with a nice arrangment that isn't too hard to replicate. I have those wire loom brackets that bolt to the center bolt on the valve covers, but this really isn't they way I want to leave them. Just looking for a cleaner look for them.
|
| | | | RE: Sparkplug Wire Routing #7&8 -- Courtney Bolze, 01/05/2003
Remember to not run wires # 7 & 8 parrallel to each other. I know it looks neat but but you end up with #8 firing 90 degrees advanced due to inductance. Courtney Bolze. |
| | | | | RE: Sparkplug Wire Routing #7&8 -- Rollie H., 01/05/2003
I have heard of this before. I try to run all of the wires so they aren't parrallel to another wire. Thanks for the reminder. |
| | | | | | RE: Sparkplug Wire Routing #7&8 -- Courtney Bolze, 01/06/2003
Check Chapter 1 of how to rebuild your big block ford book, it mentions inductance in #8. Courtney Bolze. |
| | | | | | | RE: Sparkplug Wire Routing #7&8 -- Rollie H., 01/07/2003
That is a great book for the tips like this one! |
| Rebuild engine source -- Armin, 01/03/2003
I am from Germany and right in the middle of the restauration of a 65 convertible. Now I found a source from a engine rebuilding company and would like to know if anyboday have any kind of experience with this company and the quality of the engines ?
I heard bad thinks about quality from suppliers like them. Any advice is welcome.
I almost forgot the link:
http://www.ford-motors-engines.com/ |
| | RE: Rebuild engine source -- Bob Sprowl, 01/03/2003
I have heard that they don't do a good job on FEs. I read that they do few FEs so therefore keep none in stock, are very slow in delivery, and the engine had to be rebuilt by some else before it ran correctly.
|
| | | RE: Rebuild engine source -- Martin, 01/03/2003
Are you looking to buy a crate engine or rebuild what you have ?
When I lived in Denmark I found that freight + value addeed tax on engine + freight + custom fees + customs clearing was too punitive, and would then with the help from fellow car enthusiasts find a local machine shop that was used to performance work and did work on V8s at all. Then I would do the disassembly, confirm with the machine shop what over/under sized parts I needed and have them shipped in from Hansen Racing in Stockholm, Sweden. Final inspection and assembly I did myself. If you go this route - be extra careful to check everything. I have had to take parts back to be re-machined, because they were not used to working on parts that big. There are several excellent books on rebuilding FEs.
Parts for a rebuild can in the US probably be had cheapest from PAW, Summit, & Jegs.
Good luck |
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