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 |  re; new questions on 390 rebuild -- David, 01/02/2003
Now that I have my oil filter/pump problem taken care of I want to pick your brains on a couple of other things. The motor is in a old chasis, one that I can not drive. I have it in there while I do body work on its final home. I wanted to do this so I could run it from time to time, is there anything given these circumstances I should be doing as far as break-in. Also I have a slight spuratic lifter noise. I am assuming I need to adjust the valve lash on a couple be either shortening or lengthening the push rods where needed and it will go away? Also I posted in the general forum about restoring the bottom of my chasis. I was hoping to get more input, should I sand blast, wire brush, or what have you fellas out there all done? I think I will undercoat the whole thing, would this be proper? |
|  | RE: re; new questions on 390 rebuild -- Pete's Ponies, 01/03/2003
you have non-adjustable rockers arms or adjustable? If they are adjustable you should be able to tighten down the noisey rockers. I do not like sandblasting a car unless you expect tro clean it forever. Sand will show up everywhere, when it is time to paint. If the floor is solid, scrap the loose undercoating off and then reundercoat. Any bare spots should be painted first. |
 | New 428 owner needs help -- Ron Linthicum, 01/02/2003
Bought disassembled 428 and the rocker-shaft has been beefed up with stainless stands stronger shaft etc. My ? there are no springs on shaft between rockers, do I need to find some & install them or does a high performance add on need them.
Also missing 1 valve spring oil baffle,are these a required item or can they be deleted?
If it does require these items where is the best place to purchase them. TIA |
| | RE: New 428 owner needs help -- John, 01/02/2003
Springs are required, but spacers are better. They are available from Ford Power Parts or I think Dove Engineering. I don't know what a valve spring oil baffle is, but new valve seals all around are a must (the positive type are prefered). You should do a search on oil system modifications in this forum to find out more changes (simple, and virtually cost free). |
| |  | RE: New 428 owner needs help -- Ron Linthicum, 01/03/2003
John Thanks for your help.
The shaft does have spacers.
The oil baffle is a small sheet metal unit that curve slightly around the valve springs & mount by the shaft bolts. |
| | RE: New 428 owner needs help -- afret, 01/03/2003
The baffles (drip rails) help keep excess oil away from going down the valve stems. Some people don't use them but if you are using the stock umbrella type valve seals it might be a good idea to have the drip rails. There are actually two types. The early ones have "fingers" that direct the oil back into the lifter galley and help with oil drainage. The later type are basically just help direct the oil back to the head drain holes. Dennis at DSC Motorsports carries both types (www.dscmotorsport.com). |
| Need a Transmission? -- ErikB, 01/01/2003
My engine is almost finished and now I need to gather else needed to install it in my car. Can anyone give me some ideas on where I can find a transmission for an FE motor, The car was originally a C6 automatic so I would like to keep it an auto. Is there an Overdrive that I might be able to use or should I stick with a standard 3 speed? I live in the northeast also. |
| Dave Shoe RE:Fe forum -- S.Vincent, 01/01/2003
Hey Shoe, is the forum down? I cant pull it up. |
| | From Network54... -- Styletone58, 01/01/2003
This message from N54 explains it. They are NOT having a happy new years day!
>>
Maintenance
Network54 is currently unavailable for maintenance. We are waiting on facility maintenance to restart the air conditioning! We'll be lucky to keep this web server up. The other servers are off to prevent damage or data loss. It is winter -- you'd think it would not be so hard to keep a room cold... We apologize for any inconvenience.
Update: Pipes for the A/C are frozen. There is a repair crew on the way. It is New Years Day and I don't know how quick they will be... More updates as I get them...
>> |
| | | Some kid running Net54 from his Mom's basement? :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/01/2003
n/m |
| | | | Meow. ;-) -- Styletone58, 01/01/2003
Frozen pipes and popups. Nothings perfect.
N54, given all it's faults, now posseses some of the best Ford engine-related information ever gathered in one place. It's the people who use N54 that make it great.
Praise to this great forum as well, and the Ford Truck forums. If I knew what I know now when I built my first Cleveland.... |
| | | | | Aw, just a little. But hey - their forums make money. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/01/2003
n/m |
| | | | more like some hungover pissed off 20 something... -- hawkrod, 01/01/2003
who got stuck working new years day because he was low man on the totem pole. a few hours of crisis stacked on top of last nights booze and too little sleep will make anybody a little whiny just my guess, but i'll bet i'm close! LOL hawkrod |
| | | | | I think you're onto something, Tom. ;-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/02/2003
n/m |
| | | | | | and just imagine what his boss will say monday.... -- hawkrod, 01/02/2003
i think it will go something like this:
Boss "jim will you to my office for a minute" Jim"sure, be right there" B "did you really post this while the system was down?" J "welllll, yes, why?" B "just what in the sam ehll did they teach you in that fancy school?" J "i don't see anything wrong with it, it was the truth and i didn't think....." B "thats the problem, you didn't think! see my secretary on your way out and don't let the door hit you in the arse on the way!" LOL i am sure i had a few like that work for me in the last couple of decades! hawkrod |
| 428 running rough -- Mike, 01/01/2003
I'm having a little trouble getting my 428 CJ to run smoothly. It was rebuilt with a mild PAW hyd cam, stock heads and adj factory rockers. It ran very good, but had to be taken back out for other unrelated reasons. While it was out I decided to have hardened seats installed and I picked up a PI intake. Now after reinstalling it, it runs a little "lopey" compared to before. I took a straight edge to the valve tips and noticed that the shop that did the valve work didn't get the depth even on the valves, some are almost 1/8" off. I adjusted the rockers at 0 lash plus 1/2 turn. Will the adjustables be able to take up the difference, or will I need different length pushrods to make the correct geometry? Thanks for any advice. |
| re; oils not flowing on rebuild! -- David, 12/31/2002
Working on firing up my rebuilt 390 and the oil filter o-ring keeps blowing out. Heck the oil filter itself grew a little. Any one have any ideas why this is happening? |
| | RE: re; oils not flowing on rebuild! -- Bob Sprowl, 01/01/2003
The oil pump pressure relief is bad. |
| | | RE: re; oils not flowing on rebuild! -- David, 01/01/2003
What about assembly oil getting into ports etc.? The oil pump is new. I suppose it is possible that a new pump could have a sticking relief valve. |
| | | | you're lucky.............. -- Pete's Ponies, 01/01/2003
only the o ring blows. The last 428 I built, the relief valve stuck. It blew the oil filter right open, oil everywhere!! I removed the pan and pump. Pushed the valve open several times and put it back togther. That was 3 years ago. no problems since :o) |
| | | | | RE: you're lucky.............. -- David, 01/01/2003
Thanks. Was that on a new oil pump? I may have to pull the pan yet it sounds. |
| | | | | | Similiar problem on new pump -- John, 01/02/2003
My new pump had the relief valve stick open causing low idle pressure. I suspect it was because of improper deburring during the manufacture of the pump, or metal particles left in the pump from machining operations. And before you gasp in horror, take a look down the center hole of a brand new oil filter sometime...even a Fram....lot's of steel bits inside from machining the threads on the filter still in there. How fast can they make them rules the roost. Quality just isn't Job One with every parts supplier it appears. |
| | | | | |  | RE: Similiar problem on new pump -- David, 01/02/2003
Thanks all. The thing must have freed itself up. After several of times of cleaning things up, reinstalling the filter and starting and stoping the motor, it quit doing it. The motor is running ok now. |
| | | | | | | RE: Metal chunks and trash on oil filter threads. -- Courtney Bolze, 01/02/2003
Years ago I noticed excessive amounts of metal bits, slivers, debris and trash on the threads of new oil fliters. It seemed the worst brand was Motorcraft! (Got 1/2 turn shaving out of one) I noticed this when I was prefilling my oil filters as I allways do. I switched brands to one that is cleaner, but they all have some amount of metal in the threads. Everyone, go out to the garage/shop and take a new filter and a clean white rag, wrap it around your finger, insert it in to the threaded hole and give it one turn as to "unthread " it and see how much metal is on the rag. It pains me to think how clean and meticulus (SIC) I was on my last rebuild only to send a bunch of metal shavings straight to the main bearings:(. Eveyone, clean those threads before prefilling the filter, JMO, Courtney Bolze. |
| | | | | | | Fram..worst filter out there......AVOID!! n/m -- Pete's Ponies, 01/03/2003
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| | | | | | | | Which filters can be trusted ? -- Martin, 01/08/2003
If both Motorcraft and Fram make filters with metal shavings left in them - is there any brand out there that can be trusted ? |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Which filters can be trusted ? -- John, 01/09/2003
I use a System 1 re-usable filter (steel mesh inside). It's a pain to clean (a toothbrush and varsol works pretty good), but it will tell you what's going on in your engine. It doesn't have quite as fine a filter as a paper filter, but those small particles are mostly due to carbon particles and regular oil changes will offset the filter not being able to handle that 5 micron stuff. I quite often alternate between the System 1 filter and a paper filter so I can clean the former at my liesure. For some reason I have never seen shavings in the Fram HP-1, just the other Fram, Purolater, etc. filters. |
| | | | | | | | | | RE: Which filters can be trusted ? -- Bob Sprowl, 01/09/2003
Wix, Motorcraft, Napa Silverline are what I use. |
| | | | | | | | | | Us John's agree -- John, 05/04/2004
I do exactly as the above John....use a System 1 alternating with a HP1...and I've never seen shavings in an HP1 either, though I have in most other brands. The System 1 will touch some of the wider winged pans such as AVIAD, but still goes on. I did worry about the size and weight on that puny oil filter adapter, but never a problem yet. And as a bonus, you will see a slight increase in hot idle oil pressure. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Which filters can be trusted ? -- Pete's Ponies, 01/22/2003
problems I see with Fram is problems with quality materials. Cut one open and see for yourself. Motorcraft scores high marks as well as Mobil 1 filters. |
| | | | | | | | | | RE: Which filters can be trusted ? -- Mike Harrington, 05/04/2004
A filter that seems to only be available at repair shops is the Mighty Engine Guard II. It is an excellent filter. Top quality. Check out their web site www.mightyautoparts.com |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: Which filters can be trusted ? -- giacamo, 05/04/2004
i use fl1a,s or hastings filters. i have a fram seting on my tool box with no oil holes in it but the center one.... |
| | | | | | | | | | | | RE: Which filters can be trusted ? -- David, 05/08/2004
A agree with Pete's Ponies. Since the local Car Quest CUT OPEN several filters. Showing the Fram was one of the worst. And Motorcraft was one of the best I have used only the Motorcraft FL-1 and it is kind of nice that I only have to buy one filter size as it fits my 390 as well as my daily driver 302.
I have NEVER remembered seeing metal shavings on any of the Motorcraft filters. Plus I also remember that I think they were less expensive that the Fram filters. Go figure & they are a better filter than the Frams are.
Another reason the Motorcraft, Mobil 1 & Carquest filters are better is that they use a pressure blow off return spring not a piece of rubber or foam to return the filter element incase of a filter blockage. This is a saftey system that keeps your engine fed with oil in the event that the filter plugs for some reason.
If the blockage in the filter clears up the spring will return the filter element to filter the oil. Hope I have explained it good enough.
I would not hesitate to use the Motorcraft filters |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | No hastings, ever again -- Davy Gurley, 05/08/2004
I lost two 428s in one day because of Hastings oil filters. They were using cotton matting for filter media and it wouldn't pass enough oil to lube the engine. One of the 428s was on an irrigation well and was turning a steady 2000 rpm. It ran about 5 hours before it threw the rods on the 4-8 throw on the crank. It died and when I got to the well site there were parts all over the ground and a hole through the block that I could see daylight through. The other engine was in my pickup and it did the same thing on my way home that night, running about 60 mph. Da(rn) that ticked me off. Hastings sent a rep out and he offered me 2 NEW FILTERS! That's all. Sure makes you want to use his stuff. I bet you can guess where I told him to put his filters. |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | RE: No hastings, ever again -- Tim P., 05/09/2004
I've aways had good luck with pure 1 filters |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | RE: No hastings, ever again -- giacamo, 05/09/2004
maybe not the filter but just a rod tossing 428,,,i read a lot of posts on #4 and #8 tossing in thease engins, i use a hastings filter on my 7000rpm+ 390 no problems. like anything made by man you can get a bad one. but for me say no to fram. |
| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | RE: No hastings, ever again -- Davy Gurley, 05/10/2004
I'd agree except for one thing, in my case, the only thing changed in the equation was the Hastings filter, otherwise, same oil same load. I ran these engines for about 10 years and, if you keep enough oil in them and change it once a week they would last several seasons. These engines were running 24/7 for 5 months at a time with a steady load holding 8-10 in. of vacumn. |
| Cam brand -- WAYNE S., 12/31/2002
I have cam out of motor but dont know who made it or any specs on the end it has ka5772/2945-10. Can someone help me out please it s out of fe engine , its a solid lifter cam aftermarket. |
| 69 428 Cj Rad Number C8ZE-81 9 AC -- Pat, 12/31/2002
Hi all. I would like to know if this is the correct rad for a very early 69 Mustang with the 428CJ, no air and C6 tranny. Ford part number stamped on the side of the rad is C8ZE-81 9AC. Also there is a fomoco stamp on top. Thanks for your time and knowledge. |
| | RE: 69 428 Cj Rad Number C8ZE-81 9 AC -- Tim, 01/26/2006
Are you sure it isn't S1 instead of 81? I believe correct radiator would be S1 or M1 |
| | | Uh, Tim - you're responding to a post from 2002. [n/m] -- Mr F, 01/30/2006
n/m |
| | | | Better late than never! nm -- Tim, 02/03/2006
nm |
| | | | | And wouldn't that mean you are -- Tim, 02/04/2006
as well? :^) |
| | | | | | Actually...no. Open each one and check the dates. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 02/12/2006
n/m |
| 390 cam help -- a.johnson, 12/30/2002
I have what is suppose to be a' 62 390, the original cam shaft has a spacer between the first bearing and where the upper cam gear would bolt on, the new comp cam doesn't have this. Did the later FE series have a removeable peice here? If so what years and does anyone supply them. Thanks for any help. |
| | RE: 390 cam help -- Ross, 12/31/2002
Early FE's used a spacer ebhind the upper timing gear. If for some reason you are using the original timing set, you need the spacer, but the new timing gear will have the spacer lready machined into the gear itself instead of a seperate piece. So, bottom line, if you bought a new timing gear, just bolt the cam and timing set together and you'll be fine, you only need the spacer with the original parts |
| 68 428 Galaxie -- Terry McMahon, 12/29/2002
How rare is a 68 Galaxie GT, XL 428 4 speed, Car has air and bench seat |
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