The coil bind (open pressure) on your springs is at a higher lift. Should be about perfect.

Royce

Are the springs new or used? Check with crane and see what they say about new vs used or broke in springs. Courtney Bolze.

It should work ok just like Royce said earlier. (Royce is one of the FE/427 Cougar experts in another FE forum.) I think you will have about 320-330 lbs open pressure with your cam. You just have to be careful to set the spring height since 1.92 seem a little high for standard FE heads unless the valve are sunk. You might need to get the +.05 keepers and shim from there to the correct height so you don't get too much spring pressure. If you look look at Crower they have two spring choices for their hotter hydraulic and solid cams. Your springs are like their second choice which gives 1000 or so more rpm potential than their other choice which is more like the springs Crane recommends. You might look at the Crower catalog. They recommend the stronger springs for limited street use and the weaker springs for daily use. I run a Crower hydraulic #16255 and run their stronger recommended spring. I used to run Isky 8005-a springs which has the same seat pressure at the recommended height but had more open pressure with no problems with this cam, a wilder Crower hydraulic and a Crane solid. Another thing to consider is valvetrain stability/strength when you go above 300# open pressure. It gets risky with stock rocker shafts and the stock aluminum stands. You might consider getting endstands to eliminate the chance for breakage of the shaft on the outboard ends. Another choice is to upgrade to stronger rocker shafts and split rocker stands-you can add endstands to this too and have a bullet proof valvetrain.
Hope this is of some help.

Address change wjp428cj@webtv. Net
thank's.

...there are literally dozens on castings over the FE's lifespan. A quick way to tell if it is an FE is to look at the intake. If the valve cover bolts to it; if it looks like it is a third of the head, then it's an FE. Here's a drawing to illustrate:

Regards,
Dan
http://www.sea-tools.com/mpc

I must say I am involed in the same delima, my heads have a casting number of D2TEAA but I can't find any info to determine if I can use them on a 428CJ

n/m

NOS is nice, but it won't bring much added value to an engine plate. They're very common.

As for engine fit, all versions are about the same. In some cases you'll have to drill some holes to clear the threaded oil plugs. Some plates were stamped for the flush-mounting press plugs, and others drilled to clear the protruding tapped oil plugs.

Many FEs from 1958 through about 1964 came without engine plates, so it's important that they not be added to an engine which is not supposed to have one, particularly an auto-tranny car, as the torque converter is supposed to be a set distance between both the tranny and the engine to prevent undue thrust on the #3 main bearing thrust surface, and also on the tranny front pump.

JMO,
Shoe.

your sonic test will say for sure. If it is thick enough, then there will be no problems with going .040. I run a 428 .030 over in a 69 F100 and never have overheating problems. When I built my 681/2 CJ Mustang, I went with .020 since that cleaned it up and it's best to stay as thick as possible. I just recently bored a 360 block to 428 standard specs as the sonic check came out good. You will just have to test it to know for sure.

My 428CJ is at .040 over. Am running the TRW forgings rated at 10.5:1 although I am not running anywhere close to that, I think it calculated out to 9.95:1 due to the deck height being well above the piston at TDC. To get to your question, I have overheating problems in traffic and on the highway. Am running 3.50 gears in a 1969 Cyclone CJ with C6 A/T and A/C. I have the factory fan clutch and fan blade but am only running a 3-core radiator. I will be switching to a 4-core over the winter. If I keep the highway speeds below 60 I am usually ok except on a very hot day. However, once I get above 65 the temperature slowly climbs. I have to back off the speed, then it will drop down. In traffic I am fine if I keep the car moving, however, I cannot idle long without overheating. I had a great deal of experience with this while driving 850 miles each way to Talladega and back from Chicago last fall for the Aero Warriors reunion. I am running 11-12 degrees initial advance and 40 degrees total advance with a full mechanical advance distributor, aluminum Performer RPM intake and cylinder heads and FPA tri-y ceramic coated headers. I suspect the aluminum heads are transferring more heat to the water jacket and the .040" overbore is allowing the same. The headers just add to the problem. I also suspect that the 4-core might not completely solve the problem. Overdrive, with a 4-core should solve the highway issues and an electric fan to boost airflow at stoplights will probably end up being the solution. I have not tried water wetter or anything like that an do not intend to.
Hope this helps,
Greg

Any FE damper can be used on any engine. There are none that are not balanced the same, only heavier and lighter ones. All are zero balanced.

The early dampers have an integral pulley. If you need another one the 352 /390/410/428 (skinny) or 406 / 427 (wide and heavy) will work fine for you.

Royce

n/m

Something doesn'r add up. .040 over 390 pistons would be 4.09. A .040 over 428 piston would be 4.17. A .010 over 428 block would be 4.14 bore. a .090 over 390 block would also be 4.14 bore.I've heard that this has been done, but never actually saw one that took this bore and had cylinder walls left thicker than a sheet of paper.

n/m

I checked the block and Mr. F may be correct. This block has a Ford green remanufactured stick on it. It also has a brass tag "nailed" to the block casting. The tag has E70335 on it. Does anyone know how, who, or what to do to trace these numbers? Is there a archive at Ford that may have answers? I certainly could use any and all information that can be

I checked the block and Mr. F may be correct. This block has a Ford green remanufactured stick on it. It also has a brass tag "nailed" to the block casting. The tag has E70335 on it. Does anyone know how, who, or what to do to trace these numbers? Is there a archive at Ford that may have answers? I certainly could use any and all information that can be

they made a lot of changes for 67 and the 66's are the weakest of all C6's and have a weird shift pattern like a cruisomatic. because of this they are kind of like a white elephant. you can and should upgrade them when rebuilding as it is only a few parts and the valve body and the stuff can come from any later C6 like a lincoln 460 trans. around here a known good C6 is 75.00 at the wreckers and at pick N pull they are 55.00 and you pull it. hawkrod

n/m

n/m

I'm thinking the center carb is running too lean.

Using 93 octane gas and 2 bottles of octane boost per tank.

Timing is supposed to be 6 degrees BTDC - I have it retarded all the way to zero.

Also look for a big vacuum leak. You may be running ultra lean until the secondaries come in. Did this just start with no warning or any mods, etc.?

Because these fe's were built around a compression ratio 10 to 11 to 1, on 95 to 103 octane. These engines will undoubtedly ping if you put them together the way the book says. But there is a way around it, and one is lower the compression(not a good thing) if your old it's OK. Two, is to re-jet because timing mixture is relative to spark advance. The richer the mixture the less timing the engine will see, you will not have duel flame fronts to causing ping. Ping is a un-controled burn in the combustion chamber, another item I can't say enough about, is potronix -two veriable dwell unit. You can have your cake and eat to it justs take little work, good luck. Ray

n/m

Based on your advice, sent the center carb out to our local overhaul man. He took it apart, cleaned it up, replaced the power valve, replaced all the gaskets and changed the jets from 56 to 59.

It's like magic - no more knock! Been running too lean ever since I bought the car 5 years ago.

Thanks for the guidance.