nm

Try:

www.nvsaac.com

n/m

Roy,

Can you give us anything in particular you need to know? I have a 67 500, have a fair amount of experience, bought first one more than 25 yearts ago.
Chip

n/m

The FE head got it's only major redesign in 1966.

The goal was to reduce emissions, so emissions features found their way in. Additionally, 1966 marked the incorporation of the FE into the Fairlane/Comet. This restricted exhaust manifold bolt access, so all heads (except 427 race heads) got eight extra bosses cast into them to allow drilling and tapping for a diagonal bolts at the exhaust manifold.

Now, onto your question:

There were three versions of the full emissions FE head. The first, was a C6AE-J or C6AE-L, and it got modified intake and exhaust runners.

The second version was the C6AE-U and C7AE-A, which was the same except the chamber was shrunken slightly, taking on the CJ chamber shape, without the big valves.

The third version was the C8AE-H and D2TE-AA, which was the same as before but an even smaller, all new combustion chamber was incorporated. this smaller chamber creaded more "velocity" around the increasingly shrouded valves. This apparently improved mixing. THis design stuck around to the end, though the D2 version was made compatible with unleaded gasoline, and thus the exhaust valve seat was induction hardened to reduce wear.

A really early 1968 Mustang could get either. A later only the C8AE-H. Check the date code of the head and of the car. They should be withing three months of each other,

Shoe.

I have seen 352, 390 and 427 blocks with that casting number. It's meaningless. Post some pictures of the rear bulkhead and measure the bore of the block if you really want to know.

Royce Peterson

I got mine from Rob McQuarry(sp?) who owns BlueOval performance Ford parts. Check out BlueOval.com. Rob is responsive and fair. Of course you'll need the corresponding long push rods that go with the shell lifters. Rob has those too.

Crane Cams still makes the shell lifters and longer pushrods, however I just bought a backup set from DSC or DCS Motorsports who frequently sells on eBay, and also has their own business. I've purchased FE steel shim head gaskets from them in the past as well. Good folks. R

I'm not sure about the method of mounting the carbs. The only proble I can see with it is that upon initial acceleration, you would be opening up both sets of primarys. unless the engine was asperated just right I would think that you would have a bad lul, from too much initial fuel. Again that is just my 5 min reasoning...so take it with a grain of salt. I'm sure the other guys on the board can give better info on it.

As far as adding an open spacer, or cutting the plenum.....that is a very worth-while mod. Offenhauser did this on their duel plenum intakes. it is a small cutout about one inch wide and about 3/4 of an inch deep. ( if you are really interested I can give you the exact specs) The cut was made at the rear of the plenum. It works so well that I took an edlebrock intake and made the same cut in it's plenum, and was able to notice the difference. The car ran alot smoother and was a little faster to respond to acceleration. It is a very good idea. I don't know about the open space though. it would seem that you would acomplish teh same thing with it tough, unless there is somethign that I don't quite understand.

Thought I was going wacky, as I couldn't post for a couple days myself, over the weekend.

Is the 74 a 4V or 2V? I havent been able to find much info on the 70's FE's as they were only in trucks, and most people tend to disregard them as being low compression dogs. Methinks thats probably how the 390 got it's bad rep in the first place, but that's just my $.02 worth

as the 71 may have the more desirable deck height pistons. The 74 may have the more desirable "105" block, and D2 heads which SHOULD have the induction hardened exhaust valve seats. It depends on if you are going to bore it too. They should both have pipe plugs in the back instead of press ins. If you can measure between the cylinders on each, that could also make one more desirable than the other. you can always add hard seats to the earlier C8 heads, but you cant change the wall thickness on the cylinders. Look up the drill bit test threads to see what I mean. You may want to buy him new 1-49/64th's" core plugs before you go over there to allow you to check. You are gonna need some anyway. Do not use the 1-3/4" ones that come in all the rebuild kits, unless you plan on epoxying them in with JB weld. You should buy the brass ones for yourself anyway.