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| Genesis 427 block? -- 60sIron, 11/04/2002
Has anyone seen one of these in person, or built an engine out of one?
From the web site, it sounds like they've added a lot of metal to the area where the water passages once were. Is it more prone to overheat than the original block? |
| | I believe only Genesis has built and raced one. -- Dave Shoe, 11/05/2002
Genesis built the first full-powered engine about a month ago for their own testing. It was based on stock 427 MR heads, twin-carb MR intake, and 428 cast crank bolted to their block. They thrashed it up and down a mile long runway since.
I haven't been in touch with them for about two weeks. I've called, but they're understandibly preoccupied with the business end of things, so I'm gonna give 'em time before bugging them with more questions.
There is plenty water passage, though I don't have the experience to know whether the thick cylinder walls will conduct heat well. I'm inclined to believe they'll work swell. Time will tell.
You might try calling them, though I suspect they will be shorter on time for the next two weeks than they have been the past two weeks. Be patient if their phones don't answer, they're shipping a lot of iron right now.
In less than a month, it's likely there will be a shelf-stock supply of Genesis iron blocks available for all. In two months they might have free time to answer phones and chat with non-paying folk like me. I'll report what I learn when this happens.
I did tour their foundry, machine shop, and pattern house about two months ago. It's a neat operation, and Ron and Tim are true enthusiasts. The core shift in the "generation 2" block looks excellent, from what I've seen. The sonic numbers I've posted are quite remarkable, too.
Give it a month. I believe your question about cooling will be answered en mass.
Shoe. |
| | RE: Genesis 427 block? -- Bill, 04/01/2003
Has anyone heard if Genesis has started to sell 427 blocks yet? |
| Tri-power manifold hole plugging? Vacuum? -- George, 11/04/2002
I asked this question before. The big hole on the horizontal plane of the manifold - should that be plugged or should a fitting go there to feed vacuum to the power brake booster? It's in a 67 Fairlane GT/A, by the way. There is also a small hole on the vertical wall, rear, of the carb riser. Should that be tapped together with the big hole? Or should it be plugged? The motor's in, the Hooker Super Comps are in (after EIGHT hours!) and the plan is to fire the beast tomorrow. We will just cobble plates for those holes for the test-run, as no "drive" is planned. It's an Edelrock setup. Thanks all - We're almost there! |
| | Big holes for PCV; small one's for PDB booster.[n/m] -- Mr F, 11/05/2002
n/m |
| | | RE: Big holes for PCV; small one's for PDB booster.[n/m] -- George, 11/05/2002
OOPS! Answer right here! I'm sorry! I missed this response. Hawkrod said you may have some of the necessary pieces for this plumbing issue? We would need all of it - All we got is a hole! Thanks F George 410-522-5800 |
| | i am surprised, didn't you like..... -- hawkrod, 11/05/2002
the answer i gave you last time you asked? here is the answer with pictures. the tripower is in the middle and the bottom left and this is right from the ford parts book. as for the power brakes, you can tee off of the same hole that the brass fitting goes into under the rear carb. hawkrod
http://fomoco.com/ford-forum-fe/reply.asp?ID=14182&Reply=14180 |
| 352 water pump -- niko, 11/04/2002
Hi I am very new in Ford engines. I own a '63 Gal with an 352 engine. My water pump is broken and I would like to know if water pumps from the bigger blocks also fites on my one? I could not find an aftermarket aluminum pump for the 352. Thx in advance |
| | RE: 352 water pump -- Travis Miller, 11/04/2002
Only parts from a FE will fit a FE. The big block 429-460 engine is a totally different animal. Forget the aluminum water pump route. Go down to your local parts house and buy the cast iron one and enjoy driving your heavy car. If you want to save weight, you need to invest in an aluminum intake manifold. That might take it from 4200 down to 4150 in weight. While '63 Galaxies are great cars, they will definitely put a strain on a set of scales. Featherweights they are not. |
| | RE: 352 water pump -- Travis Miller, 11/04/2002
First let me say welcome to the world of FE's and Galaxies. Now for the reality of FE 352 thru 428 engines.
Only parts from a FE will fit a FE. The big block 429-460 engine is a totally different animal. Forget trying the aluminum water pump route. Go down to your local parts house and buy the cast iron one and enjoy driving your heavy car. If you want to save weight, you need to invest in an aluminum intake manifold. That might take it from 4200 lbs down to 4150 in weight. While '63 Galaxies are great cars, they will definitely put a strain on a set of scales. Featherweights they are not. |
| | RE: 352 water pump -- LarryC., 11/04/2002
I think you misunderstood Niko's question... yes the water pump is the same for the 390, 427 and 428 engines. You can buy those water pumps all day long including an Edelbrock aluminum pump. |
| | | Where to get one.... -- Royce Peterson, 11/04/2002
Niko, Your email address shows you are in Germany. You can get an aluminum Edelbrock pump from Jeg's (www.jegs.com) or Summit (www.summitracing.com). Both these companies ship worldwide. They also handle the excellent Flow Cooler iron water pumps for the Ford FE engine.
Royce Peterson |
| | | | whoa nelly.... he said 63 galaxie boys.... -- hawkrod, 11/04/2002
you can not just bolt on a later style aluminum pump and run. the 65 and older engines used different mounts for the accesories. if you put the edelbrock or other later style pump on you will also need to make modifications or replace existing mounts. that is why the books do not show a pump when he looks it up. it can be done and fairly easily but the power steering is a pain and if you have a generator it gets a little worse. if you have an alternator that side will be okay. the mounting surface for the PS pump on the later pumps is not on the same plane as earlier pumps and a spacer has to be fitted. also a support bracket should be used as the pump will try and twist away and so the pulley will not line up well. hawkrod
<font size=12><A href="http://www.superford.org/registry/index.php?vID=1809&fs=1&vs0=_2590_&vs1=&vs2=&s1=&s2=&s3=&s4=&s5=&s6=&s7=&s8=&s9=&s10=&s11=&s12=&s13=0&s14=&s15=2829&s16=&s17=&s18=&s19=&s20=">My 62 T-Bird</A></font> |
| | | | | sorry the HTML didn't work but the link does.... -- hawkrod, 11/04/2002
i meant to say click on my link and scroll down to the bottom right and see the trouble i had mounting my power steering on the 66 and newer pump (i have since cleaned it up, that pic was taken when we first got the car running and were starting to make mods!). hawkrod |
| | | | | | Hawkrod That's a "CHEERY" T-bird.....n/m -- Peter, 11/04/2002
n/m |
| | | | | | | RE: Hawkrod That's a "CHERRY" T-bird.....n/m -- Peter, 11/04/2002
n/m |
| | | | | Hey, is that a box of Pennzoil 10W40?? -- P, 11/13/2002
I hope you picked up that box full of parts, and not full of oil. And I think I spotted a fingerprint on that finished engine!
(nice job!)
P |
| | | | | | it must be your fault.... -- hawkrod, 11/13/2002
i went to start the bird this morning and it made a weird noise. well to keep it short the dist is not turning so i pulled it and the cam is not turning either! i hope it is the cam gear drive pin. and no, the box is empty but it keeps the intake from rocking around when the earth moves(G). hawkrod, sullen in california |
| | | | | | | RE: it must be your fault.... -- Barry B, 11/13/2002
I didn't know a FE could freewheel, course I've never tried it intentionally. |
| | | | Germany water pump...... -- kevin, 11/04/2002
I believe that Theo has a flow cooler for sale in Mannheim. If you would like, I can E-mail him and verify/give him your E-mail address. Maybe you could both benefit, and meet a fellow FE engine lover. He has a 63 T-Bird with a 390, slightly modified, and would probably like to speak with you too. |
| | | | | Aluminum water pump -- Travis Miller, 11/04/2002
Lets see. Jegs sells the Edelbrock aluminum water pump that fits a 65-up FE. Would need to be modified for a 63. Only costs $160 and saves about 5 lbs.
NAPA sells a rebuilt cast iron water pump that fits the exact application for $27 with a $8 core charge. If you have got to have the look, spend a couple dollars on a can of aluminum paint.
FE's are expensive enough without wasting money on something that will not make the car any faster. |
| | | | | | RE: Aluminum water pump -- niko, 11/06/2002
Many thanks to all of you. Well I got some answeres. |
| | | | | RE: Germany water pump...... -- niko, 11/06/2002
Would be so nice if you can give him me email. I guess it would be much cheeper to buy a cast iron water pump and may spend the money in a manifold or something else to save some pounds. Thank you very much. Niko |
| | | | | | It is done...... -- kevin, 11/06/2002
I sent him your address and a brief description of your needs. I'm sorry, I said he was in Mannheim, actually he is in Potsdam. I got it mixed up with another. Hope all goes well for you. |
| | | | | | | ACHTUNG!! Hier ist die Polizei!......... -- Theo, 11/06/2002
Whatzz ap gais? Yu are se talkin' behind my bÄck in se differrent forum thän of se aser one??
LOL.
I'm hopelessly occupied w. survival activities and been driven far away from my belowed engine business, but since Kevin dropped me a line, I'd be ore than happy to help out an FE guy. I can't oversee whaz I got in the garage, but if Kevin says I have it then he might be right. He seems to know my inventory better than me LOL. Gotta browse the garage and see what I can do for the Niko man, LOL.
Hawkrod is right. There's definitaly a bracket mounting issue between early and later FE water pumps.
BTW @ se Hawkrod,... I really liked your disc brake conversion. I wasn't sure if the 66 T-Bird spindles would fit the 62 control arms and of course I don't have access to the 66 sp. to test fit. Congrats on the rear bars, I' drooling. Can't you dublicate them,..at least fabricate some plastic dummies or s.th.? I'm sure there are more than me who might be interested i them.
I'm definitaly going to get back to you to give you a pounding of questions on that. But that won't be too soon since it got winter here and all I can do is to detune myself into a loong winter sleep.
Good night
|
| '67 390 belt & Pulley help -- Anthony, 11/03/2002
I have a '67 Mustang GTA 390 (no smog or a/c) that I just put power steering in with a ford pump.
My original belt configuration was a single belt for the water pump and alternator which ran off of a 3/4" harmonic with a single groove.
I bought a 3 groove steel pulley off a guy which he says came off of a 390. The pulley fits over the top of the single groove in the harmonic, which of course makes the diameter of that pulley bigger, which is not bad, I guess, because it will run the alternator and the water pump faster.
Ok, here is my real question. How does the power steering pump get driven in this configuration? I can get a belt from the crank pulley direct to the p/s pump, but it will just barely rub on the water pump pulley. The new 3 groove on the crank is only about 1/8" from the water pump pulley. Or do I need to get a 2 groove water pump pulley? Please Help! |
| "Compression Dropping" After Rebuild (289) -- white66coupe, 11/03/2002
Hello,
Well, I have had my rebuilt 289 for several months now and have over 300 miles on it. My problem is that it is "spitting oil our the drivers side breather cap". When I did acompression check a month ago most cylinders were at about 155psi. When I did the same test today some were 155, 140 and 136. When I squirted oil in the cylinders they all came up to 160.
Question: Is my engine still breaking in?
How long does it normally take for the rings to seat?Should my compression be going down?
Thanks, Greg. |
| | RE: "Compression Dropping" After Rebuild (289) -- jason, 11/03/2002
give it some time some take longer than others.try going down a long hill under compression to load the rings its worked for me. good luck |
| 390 combo -- jason, 11/03/2002
looking hp,tQ rating for my 390 40over L2291f40 pistons deck is O ,claysmith solid cam 240@50 575lift c4ae-g heads mild port stock valves i will buy a rpm or victor whatever is better ,holley 750dp,msd dist,6al headers |
| 65 Regulator's operational theory? -- Mark Ernst, 11/03/2002
Based on the below scematic, how does the regulator actually function?
Is it something like this? Key switched on delivers 12v to the Reg A+ terminal which temporarily enrgizes Reg terminal S putting a voltage to the alternator S Stator enabling alternator output to BAT term on alternator. Once the engine is running and the output of BAT terminal on alternator overcomes the system voltage the output is seen on AMP meters or gauges etc.
Their are 2 coils acting as switches in circuits.
I have been able to turn output on manualy by momentarily jumping a +12v to the Alternator's "S" terminal. But I don't understand how the regulator does the switching and monitoring of the charging system... Sorry for such a long post guys! Any help is appreciated!
Mark Ernst
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| | RE: Please Help Someone! -- Mark Ernst, 11/04/2002
thank you..........! |
| | RE: 65 Regulator's operational theory? -- Pete, 11/04/2002
regulation happens by constantly turning the alternator on and off. So basically, it charges, then it doesn't charge, then it charges, then it doesn't and so on. What you have done is a test used to see if alternator output is correct, so as to rule out the alternator as a problem in the charging system. You ypassed the regulator. The original regulators have two relays in them. By creating enough voltage to activate one relay, you break the circuit to the alternator. Then when that circuit breaks and no voltage is created at the alternator, it then, by way of the relay, turns the hot circuit to the alternator back on. |
| | | RE: 65 Regulator's operational theory? -- Mark Ernst, 11/04/2002
Thank you Pete! Your awsome! Mark Ernst |
| | | | Also, dont forget....... -- kevin, 11/06/2002
that there is a Ford tool, that was installed to check all the functions at certain settings (temperature wise, as this affects it). |
| 390 crank question -- Greg, 11/03/2002
I have a 360 block that I'll be converting to a 390 with the use of a 390 crank and rods. Question is will this require a line hone of the block and a balancing of the rotating assembly? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Greg |
| head question -- Don, 11/02/2002
I have a set if the early 332-352 heads with the machined combustion chambers.When I rebuild my 390 I was wondering if there would be any advantage to using these instead of the C6AE-U heads. |
| | RE: head question -- Mark Ernst, 11/03/2002
I am using a set of EDCE's with machined chambers on my 390. Since they have taller intake ports that match my dual quad lowriser intake I decided to mill them because they had larger chambers than my GT heads which would have lowered my compression. So They were cut down to 68 cc's . Combined with larger valves and my .040 overbore 0 deck and L2290 pistons the comporession works out to aprox 11:1. I still have the ariginal heads fresh just in case. My engine is still in my running engine stand and being tested. no other specs yet but i think it must be a boost in hp torque etc...
Mark |
| | Yes there is.... -- kevin, 11/03/2002
if you are able to use them with your body style and exhaust. They offer a 15 ft lb increase in torque over std cast chamber heads of the era (but some of that was a half point difference in the compression ratio too on the egines that came with them). The intake port is gonna require you use a manifold that has the lip that extends down farther than a Medium riser, (same as any other Low-Riser design), but they can have the floors filled with port epoxy if not. The head gasket design is the older "D" style to fit perfectly (old beaded steel #1154 Fitzgerald, sold by various companies, (and used by Ford) but you can use others, just be aware that the sharp corners can leak with a fire ring that is not large enough. When I mill them .015, they are usually about 69-69.5 cc's with C-J valves installed. The real gain can be two fold depending on application. With a flat valve, you can get a radiused seat ring from careful porting similar to the Hi-Riser for great mid lift flow for torque, plus a hi seat that helps negate any need for spring shims to make up for sunk seats. If you choose that route, and dont want to spring for machined seats, (pun intended) you can use the VSI #503 (I think) "lipped" shim (which fits perfectly on any Ford head that has not had the inner lip machined away for steel seats). The only concern then, is the guide to retainer clearance must be carefully checked to assure there is enough clearance for the lift of the cam used. With a tuliped 2.19 MR intake, you can port it for higher rpm's, but need to notch the top of the block for the most gains. This head has more meat at the outer edge of the intake seat, allowing for the large valve with more seat angle options than all the other std heads before running into spark plug notch cosiderations. With the tuliped MR intake, (107 grams) and the 1.65 tuliped SCJ race lightweight exhaust (79 grams) and no milling, they are about 75 cc's total. Be sure and resurface the exhaust at an angle to keep as much area around the dowel as possible to help keep from getting it too thin there, as these are the only FE head without the support rib on the top of the ear, and they can warp more than the others consequently (plus they are 45 years old). They offer a less detonation prone chamber being smooth too, and have less flame front propagation issues with a dome such as the TRW pop ups for the 390 (1/4") or the lower 428 versions (1/8"). My favorite non 427 head, and capable of impressive power gains with serious porting. Ihope this thred can be pulled up on the search, as I have typed it a couple times before, (whew). |
| Help With 427 and 428#'s -- Marcus Brewster, 11/01/2002
I am looking at two motors for my 68 shelby clone that I need help and advise on. I'm a Ford novice and desperately need verification of what I'm looking at. The 427 is $4000 and is complete except for flywheel. It also includes an extra 2x4 intake and cast iron headers. I posted these numbers on another site and have been told it is a low-rise motor but I really don't know what that means. Can anyone help with specs? HP/Compression/Torque? The engine is supposed to have been rebuilt to stock spec's 200 miles ago. The 428 is supposed to be a 68 CJ and includes a C6 trans. There is no carb/dist/ehaust manidold. It to is supposed to be fresh with 0 miles. It is $3500. I looked but cant see a date code on the motor. but here are the numbers I could see 428 Block C7ME. 427 block C6AE Heads C80E 6090 N or H HeadsC3AE6090H INtake c5ae 94250 HeadersCOAE9431 |
| | | RE: First, the specs. See that 'Engines' button...? -- Marcus Brewster, 11/01/2002
O.K., NOW I see the engines button, looks like all sort of information that I'm looking for - except - engines are listed by "codes", where do I find that on either of these motors. Sorry, but I said I was a Ford novice and just trying to learn something about these motors to make an informed decision about which is best for my car and use. |
| | Ok -- Royce Peterson, 11/01/2002
The block is impossible to identify by casting number in either case. Does the 427 have crossbolted mains? Is there a mark on the back of either block that looks welded on in the form of a crude letter?
The heads on the 427 are 428 CJ units, considered a low riser design. They would be a good match for the C5AE Low Riser intake. The exhaust manifolds should be C0AE 9430 on one side and 9431 on the other, these came from a 1960 application. Maybe Mike McQueston would know the application. It would be for some form of 352 CI engine.
Sounds like a hodge podge of parts, that doesn't mean it's not a good deal. The real question is what's inside the motors and was the machine work competent?
Royce Peterson |
| | | RE: Ok -- Marcus Brewster, 11/01/2002
Did you say the heads on the 427 were 428CJ low rise? The block does have cross-bolted mains. On the rear of the block is 1Hb in what looks like a weld line. The ehaust manifold are numbered '30 and '31. I have talked to the machinest who built the 427 and he told me the motor was put back to "stock" specs. He is well respected locally. As for the 428, it was supposedly built by a speed shop in Memphis, TN. Balanced/blueprinted,etc. My concernis that if both of these engines are "low-rise", would someone go to the trouble to make them high performance. |
| | | | Low riser refers to head design -- Royce Peterson, 11/01/2002
Both blocks will accept Edelbrock's improved Medium Riser head. The 427 block will accept any head. The 428CJ head was in some folks opinion the ultimate version of the Low Riser design. It's a great head for anything short of a full race vehicle. It will accept Medium Riser intake designs like the Police Interceptor or Blue Thunder and work well with no port work.
Is the 427 block a side oiler? What type pistons, rods, crankshaft, bearings and cams are in the engines?
RP |
| | | | | RE: Low riser refers to head design -- Marcus Brewster, 11/01/2002
Sorry, I don't have a clue as to the cam/crank/pistons in either engine. As i've been told the 427 was put back to "factory" specs. The 428 is supposed to have been modified with a "cam". the guy I got the car from took the 428 out of it some 20 yrs ago, along w/PS/AC. It now has a fairly radical 302/toploader/4.56locker. I'm looking to build a daily driver and REALLY want a big block. Boyhood dream was for a "427" but I don't want a 427 that won't run with the crowd. Especially don't want to spend 4K on a weak motor then modify it. Make sense? By the way, I thought it was strange that the 427 wa compete except for flywheel. The guy told me it had been hooked up to a C4 in a 53 ford truck. Did I see somewhere that that may be a problem? |
| | | 4,000 bucks is cheap...... -- kevin, 11/04/2002
and bears looking into quite seriously. Unless it is a piece of junk, (I doubt it) you would be wise to buy it. It is a much better block to begin with on all aspects over a 428 except one. That one, is the distance between cylinders. While it is only .100 difference in bore size, you must double that figure for the final distance. This can lead to an easier time blowing head gaskets. That is why Ford increased the deck casting thickness on 427's, (one reason anyway). Cross bolts, bigger oil passages, a separate relief spring, and the bigger bores all add up to a better buy. A spare intake, and the cast headers sweeten it up even more. The C3AE-H heads will outflow the C-J ones from the factory. If you dont want it, I do. Hows that sound? Considering the price of a new block, its quite a deal. You can easily spend 10k to equal it. |
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