Pertronix Pertronix Pertronix. ;->

The advance curve, I believe, is still set with the distributor, not the module.

But if you have your choice, go with the Pertronix in a older style distributor. It will be more accurate than the Dura-Spark. Just as a precaution, keep a set of points in the glove box (I always carry a spare set even though I'm still running points!) because, some day it WILL fail. Might be a long time coming, but it's simple enough to put the points back in and get home!

Do a search with the above search button for "C4AE-G" in the message body. I found lots of answers! Basically they are good flowing heads, and will accept CJ size valves well, but lack the bosses necessary to run GT or CJ style exhaust.

Could pose a sticky problem trying to use them in a Mustang!

With your truck, they should do well be it on your 352 or a 390 transplant.

Somewhere around '71-'72 Ford retarded the cam timing by 4* for a better emissions rating by changing the position of the key slot in the crank gear.
You would be best off if you bought a double roller chain that has steel gears on the cam as well as at the crank. These are usually available with straight up timing or either 4* advance or retard at the crank, this gives you the option of fine tuning. If you are only interested in everyday performance you should set the gear straight up.

All the same, use a double roller so you can advance the cam 2 degrees! It should run hard on the bottom at 2. Ray

If you cannot find the correct screw in core plugs you could have some made by any competent industrial machine shop. If I had to have them made I would use brass or bronze. I believe they are out there, I just haven't seen any. When you are looking for a block the screw in plugs are an indication of the blocks made of the high nickel ore and they are tougher than the earlier blocks. These blocks came with the 7,000 rpm kits as well as the medium and high riser engines. They were also the block used for the SOHC engines.

I don't know if these are identical to the factory plugs, but they are apparently compatible with them.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=593353846

You might give BB a jingle at the fordfe.com forum and ask.

Shoe.

This may be your lucky day! The Ford part number for the core plugs you want is; #378838-S. The description is; Plug, Pipe 1 1/2" core holes in block sides. You need 6@ of these. Do you play Lotto? You may have a better chance there. Good luck.

Maybe one of these places can help: Autogear fasteners 1-800-221-1206 or Pittsburgh Plug & Products 724-538-4022 Ext.21 Mark

have a set for 427, new , never installed all 6

$ 20

www.427comet.com

Yes, the cruisomatic is a very decent transmission for a mildly built FE. You'd have a difficult time adapting a C-4 but it has been done. You probably are referring to a C-6 which became available in 1966. Just have your cruisomatic rebuilt with a shift improver kit. Stock torque convertor. With a mild 352/390, it works great.

Change your brand of oil. Or the viscosity I had a 66 428 do similiar things it was a fresh rebuild or so I was told till one day I flooded the cylinders with a holley leakdown or stuck float. It then developed a knock and low oil pressure when it got hot. I even replaced the oil pump and pump shaft which by the way have a tendency of rounding off. Still to no avail on oil pressure problem I did find what looked like a piece of rod bearing material in the oil pan. I ended up selling the truck and the motor. I would take a look at the oil pump drive shaft first though.
Good luck
Tom G

You need about 10 psi per 1000 rpm. May have overtightened the oil pump and extruded a gasket and did you restrict the oil passage to the rockers. May need to thicken the oil to compensate for wide rod side clearance. Good luck.

Well.....hmmm...I hate to disagree, but first of all, I doubt the brand of oil will affect the pressure. Second, 10 psi per 1000 rpm is not right for these engines. It is OK for Chevs, but not for Fords. Any type of engine requires about the same pressure at the bearings, regardless of type. But we don't measure it there. It is measured usually just after the oil filter before the oil galleries. Fords have small restrictive oil galleries compared to a Chev. Therefore, you need more pressure at the gauge in order to have the same pressure at the bearings. Now, you should have over 40 psi at 2000 rpm with the engine hot. You don't seem to have anywhere near this. Main bearing wear is the most likely culprit, although since your engine was just rebuilt, it is unlikely you have much wear. I suspect something is leaking inside....loose pick-up, loose oil pump, loose cam retaining plate bolt (which seals off a gallery), loose or popped out oil retaining plugs, excessive wear on the rocker shafts allowing pressure loss, etc. At any rate, it doesn't sound good, and I think I would take the engine back to the guy who rebuilt it and have it torn down before major damage/wear occurs.

> if my 65 352 has 250 horse stock what is the torqe and is it bhp . also
> if i put a mild com an intake and a double pumper and a set of hesders
> would that give me around 350 or not

Stock torque in a '66 was 352 at the flywheel. I'm pretty sure it was the same in '65. And just for knowledge sake, the compression was 9.3:1, the HP peaked at 4400 RPM and the torque peaked at 2800(I think).
I doubt there were enough, if any, changes between '65 and '66 that would effect it very much.

At top of page hit engines, look it up!!

n/m

Was there really such a '64 Ford/Mercury built? I haven't got my "resources" with me but I'm guessing from memory that you are asking about the fabled '64 390 tri power option? I have heard about this package that was supposedly made available on a limited basis. Then I read a few years ago that the "package" was nothing more than the P code police package with a dealer installed tri power induction system that was available over the counter. I'd really like to know more about this M code.