You don't say what it is, or is not doing, merely you state that "it wont run".

That means different things to different people.

As Mel suggested you have to do a compression test. No more tinkering do the test. The water getting into the combustion chambers could be several things blow gasket some where, cracked head, cracked block. A compression test could idenity which cylinders are sick (especially it you have two low cylinders besides each other) This will help track down the leak when you tear it down by identifing the weak cylinders.

P.S. The manifolds that came bolted to these heads out of the mustang had casting #'s of C8OE

Those must be for a 390 GT, the casting number is correct and the exhaust bolt pattern is also correct. The same heads were used on Galaxies but with the vwertical bolt pattern only. The casting number for the 428CJ isC8AE 6090 J. My source is Shop Tips, March 1968

There should be an improvement but there could be some problems also. Any time major mods are done to the intake or exhaust ports a flow bench should be used. First to establish a baseline of what the heads flow stock as well as any variation between cylinders. There is no way to guess what the results of the work performed are without a flowbench.
Back in the early '60s when Ford was doing a lot of research in cylinder head design they published a paper with the S.A.E. which detailed the efforts and relults of many modifications in the combustion chambers, intake and exhaust ports as well as valve head design. In this paper the described how the removal of as little as .010 from some areas could disrupt the flow charecteristics enough to cause a loss of airflow of as much as 10% with a corresponding loss of horsepower. This paper further stated that the 427 H.R. engine produced 540 HP while the 427 M.R. engine produced 539 HP and that was the reason for the demise of the H.R. engine in Ford's race program. It's too bad they didn't eliminate the light weight valves at the same time. IMNSHO :)

You need 390 mounts.
And reinforcements for the shock towers.
And a new suspension (springs, I believe).
And a new bellhousing and Z-bar and clutch linkage
(if it's a manual trans)
Or a whole new tranny (if it's an auto trans).
And GT or CJ exhaust bolt patterns on the heads.
And a new radiator, with appropriate hoses, fan, etc, etc.
And lots of time.
And lots of patience.

Am I forgetting anything else, guys?? (probably am, as I wouldn't attempt it myself)

JMO.

Most Mustang parts outlets have the CJ two piece mounts. They are reproduced. Need to be modified if you use the early two bolt blocks.

I swapped a 428 into a 67 Mustang that came with a 289. Here's what I had to change...

- motor mounts. The frame mounts were the same in 67, but I think they changed in 68. I don't have a clue what they were like in 69

- The radiator is different, but you may be able to make the 302 radiator work. Check which sides the hoses connect. You'll also need a "good" radiator, 'cause it takes more to cool a 390 than a 302.

- The exhaust is all different, so plan on getting FPA headers and all new exhaust tubing. You could run manifolds, but why?

- I have 650# front coil springs, and I like them. I think the 289 springs were something like 470#.

- I have the export brace and monte carlo bar, plus I welded a plate inside the shock tower (the spring side). I also have Global West upper and lower A-arms, but they weren't necessary for the FE.

- You have to watch the sway bar. I had a small block 1" bar and the oil filter hit it. I think there's an FE specific sway bar, but I also had a remote oil filter hookup, so I just used that.

- The trans is different. If you're running a C-6, you should be okay. If you're running a 4-speed, you'll need an FE specific bellhousing, Z-bar, throwout arm, plus the brackets that mount on the frame and block for the Z-bar. If I had it to do over again, I'd buy a scattershield and adapt a cable clutch.

- Don't forget all the accessories on the front of the engine. You may need to buy brackets, etc. for the alternator, power steering, air conditioning (assuming you have air or p/s - I don't).

It actually isn't that hard of a swap - motor mounts, exhaust, trans at a minimum. Preferrably an upgrade to disc brakes and springs, monte carlo bar, export brace. The biggest problem is the expense. Expect to pay $500 for headers, $300 for clutch linkage, ~$300 for motor mounts, ?? for trans.

I can't think of anything else, so I'll shut up.

1. You need to have a tranny or bellhousing to match. If its a 3 or 4 speed, you need an FE bellhousing, clutch linkage, flywheel and clutch. If its an AT, you need a C-6, and the matching shifter arm and driveshaft. You can cut your driveshaft and use a u-joint with 2 different sizes for the bigger yoke off the back of a C-6.

2. Motor mounts - you need CJ or 390 block plates and rubber insulators, period. For the frame mounts, 67 mounts are bolt in, or, just as easy, drill holes in your existing 302 mounts 1/2 inch inboard on the top hole to rotate the top of the mount out toward the shock towers.

3. A 3 core small radiator should work for a mild 390. If your car is an a/c car, it already has the 24 inch 3 core radiator, same as the CJ's. If it doesnt have A/C you can buy upper and lower brackets, a 24 inch rad, and a fan shroud from the Mustang resto shops. I'd try the small radiator first though.

4. If you run headers with dual bolt pattern, you can run any head on the motor, plus gain some great mid range power . There is some port mismatch in some combinations with headers, some guys think its severe, I dont think its that big of a deal, but just my opinion.

5. Shock towers are only braced on CJ cars, not 390's. However, while you have it out, make some gussets to strengthen the shock towers anyway. Put an export brace and monte carlo bar in before you start welding and it will be stronger than the hokey CJ braces at minimal cost. I highly recommend the Monte Carlo bar and the export brace with a 390, thats a lot of torque and it will help hold the motor together.

6. You'll need a p/s cyl drop bracket for header clearance, but its cheap and easy to install (<20 bucks)

7. You'll need all the brackets for the accessories, any 390 should work if it has what you need. I used 67 Galaxie, but a 360 truck would work and be more readily available, just get everything together to make sure it all lines up and it'll allow you to buy belts to for the truck application.

8. Finally, its not an absolute requirement, but you should change to a 9 inch rear. The 8 inch is pretty strong, but posi's and gears are harder to find. Axles are the same, so if you can find a housing for a Mustang and a 1/2 ton truck center section you'll get out cheaper as long as you make sure your new center section is 28 spline you can use your current axles.

The bottom line, it isnt cheap when you add everything up, but there isnt anything really complicated, or anything horribly expensive, if you search the junkyards for all you can. The biggest indicidual cost is probably the headers. FPA's are easier to install, but Hoker makes nice ones too. I run Hookers

I did the same thing, I took a 302 AT 70 Fastback and put a 427, 4 speed big in/out CJ tranny, and 9 inch combo. I found an a/c Galaxie for all the accessories so I could keep my a/c ( compressor not on in this picture) but you can check it out below

http://members.aol.com/my427stang/myhomepage/engine4.jpg

n/m

...away from this misrepresented vehicle. The last K-code Mustang was made in 1967.

The closed-mouth portion is just the tip of the iceberg. There is likely trouble brewing in this deal.

If you wanna talk more about this deal, please feel free. I dig picking apart fake auctions.

Shoe.

The 289 Hi Po in a Mustang was a K code (65-67). A 428CJ with a shaker Ram-Air should be an R code.

Try: http://www.428cobrajet.com/

for specifics.

Tim B

You asked "how do I tell somebody didn't stick in a tired Galaxy 428 and bolt a few CJ parts on?", and the sad truth of the matter is that you really can't. The only sure-fire way to identify a 428 CJ is by looking at the internals, and most sellers have a problem with providing that kind of access ;-).

As others have said, if the seller is being close-mouthed I'd be very cautious. It is WAY to easy to fake something that looks like a 428 CJ using a much more common FE short block like a 390.

Scott Hollenbeck
http://www.428cobrajet.org

Ask the seller to put everything he said on paper, if he won't, no matter what reason he gives. Forgetaboutit.

The "K" code in 1969 indicates a 429 2V engine, I don't believe there were any 1969 Mustangs produced in that configuration, I could be wrong though. My source is Shop Tips October 1972. I think I would run from this deal.

If the body is great and you want the car! I say it an't no K code, and their is no way to verify a 428CJ it's misrepresented and I'd offer you (how ever much you are willing to spend). Really any car is only worth how much a person is willing to spend. The only problem is the rich nerd drive the prices up when the spend a outrages prices for cars at auction, which most probably get screwed.

If you can? pull the inspection cover off the bell housing, and look to see if the flywheel is counterweighted. Ray

http://www.fomoco.com/forummain/reply.asp?ID=20705&Reply=20705

Since you gave sparse details, it's difficult to say if you have a problem or not, Jim. I'm going to have to rely on your assumption that the block and heads are fine and that your cooling system is performing adequately since you didn't write of any overheating.

If your car is purging coolant, you most likely have the radiator over-filled. In non-sealed systems, you do not fill the coolant to the top of the radiator. As the system heats up, the coolant expands and can open the pressure valve in the cap. When you shut the engine down, it goes into heat-soak and will slightly boil the coolant and raise the system pressure, which will also open the relief in the cap. Of course, everything could be fine but the cap and it's just not holding rated pressure.

Problem could be blown head gasket.Cylinder pressure lifting head gasket under hard acceleration and getting into water jacket causing radiator to over pressure and puke coolant. Had same problem on a 302 street/strip engine.

Also, these manifolds have oversized ports, so they are compatible with both raised-exit heads and lowered-exit heads.

Beware that you may need to mill the mating surface of the manifold because the log exhaust manifolds often warp a little as the years pass, making a gasket seal impossible.

You will want to be sure the PI log manifolds properly match the existing exhaust pipes, as the pipe diameters can vary, depending on application.

I do know the 428PI cars ran great, so the log manifolds are not bad. They appear to be superior to the 390 unibody exhaust manifolds used in Fairlane and Mustang applications.

Shoe.

I think it would be a nice project as long as it is nearly all there. There were not very many of this variation made, if memory serves. The 390 is a surprisingly strong engine that will perform very well with only minor modification. Such as a C8AX-C hydraulic cam, 3.70/3.90/4.10 rear gears with traction lock and a slight increase in compression by milling the heads. Ford says that the engine had 10.5 to1 compression but it was very rarely that, usually about 9 or 9.5 to 1. In case you didn't know it, compression is the key to horsepower but you want to keep it at a level that you can still run pump gas. the last thing I would add is an under drive pully set, especially if the car has A/C. I would use the stock exhaust manifolds as headers, while looking and performing nice, can be a PIA with leaks and installation problems as well as ground clearance and eventual rust.

I'm quite certain that you have either Boss 351 or 351 CJ heads. They should have a small combustion chamber. They are very desireable to many Mustang restorers or racers. I think you should put them on eBay with at least a $500.00 reserve, maybe more but you should first have them checked for cracks and have them cleaned and painted Ford blue to get top money.