n/m

I'm new to this site but, I have lots of FE experience. Can you post a pic or give a detailed description? Does it have a Ford part number? Is it a Holley made intake manifold? Many Ford made intakes will flow well beyond 8,000rpm. The real question should be, can your engine handle it?

That manifold is all done by 6000. Its basically a copy of the Edelbrock streetmaster with a little more port and plenum, but not much.

I run one on my truck, (.040 390, 9.5:1, 280H Comp Cam, 600 Holley, headers, CJ valves in early 390 heads) Its all done by 5800 or so, but so is my cam/carb combo.

By opening up the plenum and port matching, they can spin a little higher, but its not a race manifold. That and the Edelbrock Streetmaster were designed to be high velocity, small runner single plane manifolds for street use.

Its absolutley worth 75 bucks, and in nice shape will bring about 200 in Ebay circles

I switched from factory dual carbs, to a Holley Dominator intake with a Holley 750 vac secondary carb. My life has been a lot easier. Good intake, but it does not have the low end power that the factory dual carb intake had. The dual carbs did look good but this runs so much better than two worn out Holley's.

I remember growing up, being a teen in the late `70's early `80's, seeing and hearing trash talk about Galaxies and Fairlanes; How ordinary, boxy, dull, and boring cars they were, and noone (well, very, very few) wanted them, preferring the the GM styles, or even Mopars. It wasn't necessarily about performance, either, mostly just styles, and looks.

Silly, foolish people they were.

Makes me wish I could have afforded the few good ones that came along in the want-ads, because it seemed that those that DID like them, held on to them like glue. And now I know why, wishing to beat-all that I could afford one now. If anything, my appreciation and love for those old Fords, as WELL as the early Mustangs, has done nothing but grow over the years. And 2 years ago, I was almost ready to start my collection. But,
a serious work injury, and a year+ unemployment later, I have to start all over again, from ground zero, and drool all over what cars you folks are all fortunate enough to enjoy.

But that's okay, my time's coming, and I am patient enough to wait. In the meantime, the more I learn, the better I'll be for it, and the more I can laugh at Brand X owners who JUST DONT GET IT!

So, keep building them, keep racing them, keep doing whatever it is you feel the desire to do, as long as we get to here about it, that makes me happy!

Thanks for the info, Mike. Now if I may pick your brain a little more, I've never had a rear apart and she's a leaker so I'm gonna have to put seals int it. Is there any foolproof way to count teeth or anything and find my ratio? also, just to be on the safe side, what should I look out for while I'm in there. As always, I appreciate the support and all the advice.

Glad to here it! and I though that my old 352 starting up after setting 2 months in the cold winter weather on a -5 degree day was an accomplishement!

~.

If you have the light weight valves you really should not run the engine above an idle after sitting for a long time. My '67 Cyclone sat for 15 years without starting and I have no worries as I'm using Donovan stainless steel. I have never heard of a Donovan valve breaking. The sodium Ford valves will fall apart just sitting in the original box. They are filled with salt and will corrode from the inside out. Save your investment and buy a set of Ferrea valves. Not cheap, but worth the expense.

http://network54.com/Forum/85220

Try this site!!

According to my copy of the Autolite - Ford High Performance Parts List dated March 1, 1968 the C3AF9510-BK was sold as a pair for 8V use with the C3AF9510-BJ. They were rated by Ford at 600CFM apiece. Original applications are '63-64 427 Low Riser and '67 Shelby GT500 but most were probably sold over the counter. The Holley list number is 2804 and it is the front carburetor.

Royce Peterson

I think their was a plastic cover, but I can't remember either. How about silver sodiering it and covering it up with RTV. Sounds crude and probably will look Sh@@ but, will probably not loose connection any more. Maybe you could find a single pronge cover at a pull a part junk yard off another make of car the might work. That's about all the suggestions I've can think of..

If I rember right, the sending unit you're asking about has a wire that just pushes onto a brass stud. The way it works is there is a low voltage signal sent from the gauge/light and the amount of current the unit allows to complete the circut signals the gauge/light to indicate the oil pressure. This is the way most fuel level gauges work also. These units are prone to leak in the area where the plastic and aluminum are sealed, usually due to heavy wrenching. If the problem is just that the push on connector is very easy to remove all you need to do is give it a gentle squeeze with pliers.

Ford recommended forged flat top pistons for E/SS racing with 69cc cylinder head volume and the SS shim type head gasket. This combo made 11.6 to 1 compression. This info is for the 428 SS class race engine.
I run an engine like the one you describe with flat top pistons and it runs great. The cylinder heads you use are the most critical item when going the high compression route.

I run an Offy P-sonic on my 427. Its a great manifold for mid-high range, however, it wont do much unless you have a good cam and heads ported to take advantage of it. WIth that being said, there is probably a lot you can do before buying a 300 dollar used intake. P-sonics arent cheap

The 390HP cam if you mean 390GT/CJ cam, is not that wild, and .050 numbers are extremely low compared to modern cams of the same adv duration. This leads to low-ish vacuum and not much power, where newer grinds make much more power and still hold good vacuum and low end. You can do much better and pull higher in the RPM scale. Remember though, without porting the heads, even with good valves you'll be done by 5700-6000 IMHO

Also, if your current manifold is an Edelbrock Performer, cut the middle plenum out under the carb and add a 1 inch open spacer, it'll add quite a bit of midrange, it wont be revolutionary, but you'll definitely feel it. If its an Edelbrock Streetmaster, open the plenum to the same shap as a standard Holley base gasket and add a 1 inch spacer (per Edelbrock in their original Streetmaster instructions for racing)

If you are spending money, I'd go with the Edelbrock RPM, you can buy it cheaper new than a used P-sonic and it will pull to 6000+, but do a cam change at the same time and you'll see the most gain.

Bottom line, first thing I'd do is a spacer and grind the plenum divider, then I'd go with more cam. If I had the cash during the cam swap, I'd buy an Edelbrock RPM.

You didnt mention headers, but for an FE they are almost a requirement to "run upstairs"

Its probably the cam as well as the springs, you need some modern #'s for the cam and good springs to make 6000! Here's two from Elgin.... E-966-P mild ?. E-965-P less mild, mind runs @ 6500. RAY

That would make it a 360. The crank #, 2T, and the pistons stamped 360 tells the tale.

I've seen other 360's with the C7TE-A rods, as they are the same length as the 330MD, and were made quite plentiful for the big truck engines.

As the 360 came out in `68, and the rods were readily available, it would have been easy for them to be used.

But then, it is hard to tell. You might just have a frankenstein motor. ;-)

I'm a bit too swamped to dig up any other info right now.

Shoe.

I am trying to build a 390. If this thing is a 360 then it would be a good block to use for this. If it is a 330 MD then I don't think there is enough meat to bore away. Can anyone tell me a definite way of knowing ? Would a 360 have been a mirrior 105 casted engine?

That 2T crankshaft causes me to ask if it has a large snout where the vibration dampner goes on or if it is the same size as the passenger car's. I would be interested in acquiring that crank if it's the large snout model.