Yes, I still need one.

I was looking for parts to build one.

Yes, it has the large (63mm) thermostat.
my email... ross0015@hotmail.com

320 HP is a cinch.

First off, you've got a really sturdy engine. The 390 shortblock is very capable of making serious horsepower. Also, there are no DUD FE heads, only dud FE intake and FE exhaust manifolds (not in your case, though).

You've only got a 9.5:1 compression ratio, but that mainly just means you can run premium unleaded without any problems.

There remains one big question: What is the part number cast into your heads. This number is probably located between the center spark plugs. Check both heads to be certain they are both the same. This number is important, mainly because certain numbers require one type of header, and others a different header - due to differences in the positioning of the exhaust runner. This'll also help you dial-in your actual compression numbers better, as some of these heads also have different chamber sizes. In addition, thi'll help determine which intake manifolds are compatible with your heads, as the intake runners are sized differently on some head castings.

Anyhow, let's just say you should dig up the casting numbers on the heads.

You didn't mention what state of repair this engine is in. I figure you've got fist-fulls of cash because it's time to rebuild.

The first thing I'd buy is an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. NOT the plain old Performer - Get the "RPM". An RPM cam kit is probably overkill, but I suspect you'd have lotsa fun with it - don't just get the cam and lifters, get the valve springs and retainers, too. These are cheap, top quality, well engineered, and readily available.

With the pumped-up cam kit, you're gonna NEED rocker end supports (four total) as FE rockershafts flex like crazy when springs get stiff and camlobe ramp profiles hit modern acceleration rates. Without supports, the rockershaft is gonna bust on you.

Maybe get a fancy oil pan, too. Front sump pans empty out way too quickly when acceleration increases. I recommend the stock-depth Milodon pan and also the taylor-shaped pick-up tube that bolts to the oil pump. A pan and pick-up will set you back three big ones, so maybe a windage tray will work, as long as you keep the car heavy so it can't overaccelerate.

I recommend sticking to a stock oil pump, as FEs are easily over-oiled upstairs (slow drainback from the heads). If you go with a high volume or high pressure pump, you'll need to do a LOTTA oil mods. FEs really don't need them unless you plan to compete with Hemi Chryslers or big ol' Rats on the roundy-round tracks.

If you plan to rev high, you're also gonna want to switch to a 1968-later type of crank pulley and damper with the 1.10" wide float ring. The damper was redesigned in 1968 and it's a really nice street-performance design. You need 1968-later crank pulleys with it (no need to match belt groove diameters, just match the groove count), however, because they changed the bolt pattern slightly. Your timing marker will be kinda screwed up with the new damper, so getting the 1968-later timing cover or pointer might be nice, too, but the timing pointer position is a minor issue which is easily remedied by adding a white paint stripe or two to the new damper and using the old pointer.

For a Carb, I'd go with a 750 Holley, but I'm just a sucker for Holleys. You probably do want a 750, though. A 650 will pull harder at the low RPMS, if you don't plan to rev all that high.

Headers are sort of a pain, but I'm figuring you might wanna actually make closer to 390 Horsies, so I recommend Headers which are compatible with your heads. Don't listen to the header manufacturers on this - find out which ones you need in the forum, and also learn WHY you need that type. Header manufacturers just don't give a damn that the FE from 1966-70 can have two different and uncompatible port locations.

Since a full rebuild is in the works, you wanna resize (actually - "reround", but it's called resizing) the rods - this is mandatory if you install new rod bearings, as the big-end of forged steel rods of any type get pounded into an egg-shape that'll kill new rod bearings in a hurry. The small end of the rod will need some attention if any play is detectable. Either rebushing or reaming for oversized pins is the way to go on the small end. These rods are really nice forgings. Oh yeah, since you no doubt gotta resize the rods, buy some ARP bolts prior to resizing - it'll definitely add strength to the bottom end.

With new pistons you can go up to 10.5:1 compression, but you'll find your car finicky with the premium. Stick between 10.0:1 max and 9.5:1 minimum, and you'll have much better luck with cheaper grades of premium unleaded. Cast 390 pistons take quite a pounding, so you needn't step into forgings or anything at the sub-400 HP level. Don't get your pistons at PAW, if you know what's good for you, and inspect them to be sure they look like they were all cast and machined at the same time. Also, cast pistons are usually balanced with their pins, so do NOT mix pins between pistons. Do a minimum overbore (+.030 max), otherwise you'll need a sonic check. FEs dig thick cylinders, and overboring has MANY drawbacks, including overheating and ring sealing issues.

Upgrade from your restrictive 1967 air cleaner assembly to a 1968-later Ford assembly. The factory air cleaner assemblies from 1968-on have large air cleaners and are very aerodynamic. Also, you can stick an extra fat aircleaner in the 1968-later cover and gain breating PLUS a bad-ass intake manifold sound.

the stock coil is great, but you wanna upgrade your distributor innards with a Pertronix conversion kit. Just remove the pioints and plot it in. This'll let you rev way out.

All of this advise is at best "questionable", but it'll give you an idea where to get started. Also, it's probably not complete, but it's just what popped into mind on short notice.

Shoe.