I'm not a machinist, and machinists may have better methods for removing stubborn keys, but I've found the crank gear key (the one that fits into the curved slot) should be left alone if it doesn't readily pop loose with light tapping.

I've had a few extra FE crankshafts to play with lately (extra 352 and 360s) and decided to try to remove some of the more stubborn keys. The stuck keys deformed but did not come loose when I tapped them down hoping they would rock out. I also tryed to punch-pry another crank, but no luck either.

Obviously, the square damper key is easily removed, and must be removed to access the curved crank gear key. It's the crank gear key that can be a pest.

From my recent experiments, I've learned to leave them alone if they don't slip out with light tapping. Also, if the key is actually loose (sloppy in the slot), then it could create a different problem, so pray for good fit.

If you are referring to the square key that holds the damper in place, you are in luck, because a snug damper key means your damper will likely not be shaking loose during operation - a situation which can damage the crank snout. To remove a snug damper key, tighten a muffler clamp onto the crank spacer and use a hook-type puller on the muffler clamp to slide the sleeve and key off all at once. It works slick.

Note also that I used to curse the dampers that require a puller to slide off the crank snout, and I used to praise the dampers that slide off without a tool, until I learned that a loose fitting damper can cause the damper bolt to loosen over time, and this can cause problems when you least expect them.

Good luck.

Shoe.

Tom:

I am having my 427 rebuild right now with Edelkbrock alum heads and my builder says there is no problem. In fact he was the one that highly recommended them. I also am using Webers with the intake manifold from Inglese.

Ford fe 390

Well, Scott, I'm trying to put myself in your shoes and the fit is a little akward.

I assume the heads are off the engine as you're using your valve spring compressor (is the compressor the C-clamp type where the pad rests on the valve and the prong goes over the valve tip?) and if that's the case you can easily free stubborn locks and retainers by putting a socket whose outside diameter is just a nick smaller than the spring retainer on the retainer (flute end on the retainer) and giving it a good whack with a hammer. You need to have a small block of wood under the valve (but not always) to ensure the valve itself moves very little. This will will unseat the retainer and the locks in almost all cases. I've used this method many times as a very fast way to remove the valves without ever having to break out a spring compressor (although you need one to put the valve back in).

As to the balancer issue...Once you have the pulleys and the hub bolt off, most of the time you don't even need a puller to get the balancer off the snout of an FE engine. But if you do, a balancer puller (the common three or four-pad puller with the accompanying bag-o-balancer bolts) will fit just about any engine ever made. The biggest issue you'll have to face is removing the hub bolt. If you have an air impact (which I'm thinking you don't) that is the easiest method since you don't need to do anything other than hit the trigger. Other methods of removing the hub bolt are to use a long breaker bar on the bolt and give it a fast whack. Many times the instantanious force (just like an air impact wrench) will free the bolt. If that doesn't work, you'll have to use a rod to hold the flywheel while you apply torque to the bolt.

That's a '62 - '64 Open Element lid that has been modified to accept a PCV/breather tube of some type. Possibly to meet new for the mid sixties California emission laws. It was fairly common to see pre emission cars modified in some way to have a tube running from the air cleaner to a oil cap/breather. I can't remember the details, actually I never really knew the details, about the Cali laws which were the first in the nation I believe.

FoMoCo actually had a tube installed for various cars but typically it was on the bottom plate not stuck on/in the top lid. Again I think these were for cars sold in Californina.

I am pretty sure the rope seal uses a little pin protruding out of the block (upper half). The pin has to be removed to put in the neoprene seal, and of course will cause the rope seal to appear stuck. Sorry to tell you, but you have to drop the crank to do this. It's possible I remember incorrectly and the pin is in the bearing cap, so check there first. There will only be one pin regardless.

I checked my book and the pin is in the bearing cap. So, to remove the rope seal, I would suggest loosening all of the main bearing caps and lowering the crank as much as you can without removing the caps completely. The seal doesn't want to slide out, it will come out by prying it out of the groove. So with the crank dropped slightly, you can create the same effect by gripping the seal with needlenose vice-grips and pulling down away from the groove. You will probably have to remove the cam chain cover,, but perhaps you can lower the crank at an angle by loosening the caps in a progressive fashion, but I would remove the cover to keep it from being damaged. Besides, you should probably replace the front seal also.

http://fomoco.com/mustang-forum

If you're not looking for higher rpm, then there's not a whole lot of bang for the buck in modifying or replacing the stock heads. FE heads flow exceptionally well compared to other Ford or non-Ford heads so the urgency to port, blend bowls, multi-angle valve and such just doesn't have as much of a payoff.

You're under the assumption that there is some difference in 2V and 4V heads. There isn't. There are different head types, like Cobra Jet, medium risers, low risers, tunnel ports and such but none of these are necessary for your described needs. An example: The heads on a 67 Galaxy wagon with a 390 2bbl are substantially the same as on a Shelby GT500. So just about any FE truck or passenger car heads you find laying around will do fine. Put the money into a good valve job with guides and seals.

If you're not interested in performance over 5k rpm, then look at the Edelbrock Performer (not Performer RPM) or if you're not weight conscious even a factory iron 4V intake.

Call a cam company and get their advice for what would be an appropriate cam for you. They'll ask a lot of questions about how you drive the car, transmission type, gear ratio, vehicle weight and such so be prepared.

I have a 67 Ford Thunderbird and have put on the Edelbrock Power system. The package I got was the Idle to 5000 rpm. It seems as if you had the same dilema as I did. I went with the Edelbrock bolt on complete heads instead. That was going to be cheaper than fixing my old ones. You will have to go with the upgraded adjustable rocker arms But I think it is worth it.

http://jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=70512&Reply=70512

do a web search for fat man fabrications.
I think it is
www.fatmanfab.com
They have a mustang 2 kit that bolts in and allows triming shock towers or you can go with rod and customs kit that requires some welding but I think totaly gets rid of the shock towers. These kits are spendy, I'm not sure bang for buck is worth it?
Good luck,
Charlie

PS look for the june Mustangs and fords
It has a complete suspension rebuild in it and adds for both kits.

Since Supercomps only work on some FE car heads, it's good to make sure you've got the right heads.

What year engine is it, and do you know what the head casting numbers are (found between the center spark plugs).

H-pipe offers a bit more volume (you still get much of the V-8 burble sound), an X pipe a quieter, smoother, more Indy-car like sound.

I run a modified X-pipe design of mu own making, and I really like it. The car can have a warmer cam and still remain neighborhood friendly. Still, the rump-rump sound of a standard H-type crossover is nice, if the volume isn't too high.

Shoe.

An X pipe typically gives more midrange torque than a H pipe but chassis configuration may limit you to an H pipe design. Regardless of which one you go with, put it as close to the engine as possible.

they claim the x-pipe helps with the flow of exhaust gases. hot rod and car craft have dyno'd them on a small block chevy(imagine That) and the x-pipe was close to open (no mufflers)exhaust hp and torque numbers. i am in the process of installing one on my pro street 83 ranger.

I've always had good luck with the poly parts. I'm getting ready to put a set of the 620 springs in my 67, I've never used them but I hear good things, they will lower the car about 1" in front.

I also added a rear sway bar and am putting in a 1" sway bar in the front. Good ideas for the shock towers include a 1 piece export brace and a monte carlo bar help wonders on tired shock towers.

Charlie