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 |  66me or c6me -- Novass, 05/02/2003
I picked up my first FE motor.
It suppose to be a 1966 428 Does these numbers seem right ? I havent pulled the valve covers yet but did pull a freeze plug and I can't fit a 1/4 screw driver between the bores ( I read some were this makes a differance)
There are no numbers around the block close to the deck surfaces. The motor is on my trailer and is clean and I used a brush but couldnt find any numbers in these locations. The traany is still bolted up so I cant read numbers on the back or check for a counter balanced flex plate.
On the passenger side is 66ME or C6ME
Left front 30
352
Drivers side above filter 24 DIF
intake larger S and C6AE 9425-G
right exhaust C6Ae9430 A
Left exhaust C3SE943 1B
It came complete with a C6 tranny on it .
Any other places to check ? I guess I need to get it on a stand and pull it down. |
|  | RE: 66me or c6me -- 65galaxie, 05/03/2003
C6ME sounds right, one way to be sure is when you pull the tranny, you should have a big A on the block, it was scratched into the casting. |
 | maximum bore achievable in a 390 -- William, 05/02/2003
What is the maximum bore size I can go for on a 390 4V GT block? |
| | Usually.... -- Royce Peterson, 05/02/2003
4.11" is about all you can do. Occasionally even that is too much. Get the block sonic checked to know for sure. Sometimes you can go a little further but not very often.
Royce |
| Clutch fan question -- Highspeed, 05/02/2003
What is the acceptable amount of play (forward and aft as installed on the engine) for a clutch fan? I just had mine rebuilt, but there's still approximately a total of a 1/4" play at the fan tip. Is this too much movement? |
| | Don't know the exact spec. but 0.25" sounds like too much. [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/02/2003
n/m |
| Question for Mr F about ... -- John M. Sutton, 04/30/2003
... those yellow painted numbers on my Warner T-85N overdrive transmission - did they mean anything to you?
The number was 5W3C - and I was hoping to learn some new tidbit of information about it.
Thanks for the info! |
| help with my FE, please....... -- John W, 04/30/2003
okay guys, I need help with my 390ci FE in my '74 F-250....and please don't give me any grief about the e-mail address! lol
On to my queston.....the motor is a .060 over 390 witha Mellings RV cam and lifter set, Edelbrock "StreetMaster" low rise single plane intake, a Holley 650CFM Double Pumper Carb, and stock points ignition system.....here's the problems....
1) the power band on this motor is from about
2500 to 3800 RPMs
2) top end is about 65 MPH (with 4.10 gears)
3) there is ZERO power out put, I got beat by
a GEO METRO getting on the hiway!
4) I only get 4 to 5 MPG, on the hiway!
5) It back fires, ALOT!
any ideas on this/these problems? please help! feel free to answer me here or at my regular E-mail address:
A2ndGenFBody@aol.com
thank you so very much! |
|  | Sounds like the timing is way off. -- Royce Peterson, 04/30/2003
Turn the distributor clockwise a few degrees at a time, test drive every time you move it. When the engine starts pinging or acceleration falls off back up a couple degrees.
Royce |
| | What is the compression in the cylinders? -- Dave Shoe, 04/30/2003
You've got a good mix of components in there, however the non-stock Mellings pump requires that you restrict oil to the heads.
If you have instected the valves recently, then compression should be good - be sure to prop the carb wide open and remove all spark plugs when you run the test. A leak-down test will also tell you a lot.
I'd also advise running a basic Pertronix pointless conversion with an otherwise stock ignition system. A bad set of points or a leaky condenser can be a pain to live with. Don't go with the fancy Pertronix models - keep it simple. I'd also replace the distributor cap, rotor, wires (use a quality wire like Belden, not a fancy advertising glitzy packaging wire that often fails to insulate properly, and new spark plugs. A fancy coil can be big problems if you don't have the basics nailed, so stick to a stock coil - they're great on gasoline engines.
Tell us more about the cam. Are you using 390 truck pistons, or did you swap in car pistons? Does it ping? When was it rebuilt? Does the exhaust leak anywhere?
The type of backfiring you have can isolate the engine problem. If you can describe exactly how and when the backfire(s) occurs, what it sounds like, and any other info, we might be able to offer better info. Does it backfire through the carb? THrough the exhaust? Only on decel? The more you offer, the beter chance we have of discovering the clue that is making it run bad.
Shoe. |
| | | RE: What is the compression in the cylinders? -- kenny g., 05/11/2003
I think Chase L has got it |
| | After checking timing, check..... -- Bob, 04/30/2003
valve springs since very weak springs will cause symptoms mentioned. |
| |  | RE: After checking timing, check..... -- John W, 05/07/2003
okay, here goes, I will TRY to discribe the problem better........lol
the motor is very fresh, less than 2k on rebuild, the long block was bought from CHECKERS, rebuilt by a company called SPARTAN MOTORS out of Phoenix Az. the cam was added by me, just a Mellings RV cam, sold by CHECKERS, sorry, no spesific info for it, with a matching lifter set.
the carb is a HOLLEY 650 DOUBLE PUMPER, intake is an old EDELBROCK STREET-MASTER, (low rise single-plane for those who don't know), ignition system is stock single point system for 74 truck.
trans is a C-6, rear gears are 4.10:1
stock type single exhust w/turbo muffler
now for the problem/s.......
1) back firing during accleration
2) top end of 65 MPH or so, and not able to
hold speed while going up hill (2 to 4%
grade)
3) LOUSY gas milage ! (4 to 6 MPG)
Okay, does that help you help me? God I hope so, I'm at the end of my rope and about to put a match to it if I can't figure it out! JUST KIDDING, SO FAR! |
| | RE: help with my FE, please....... -- Chase L, 05/07/2003
You need adjustable rocker arms and pushrods to correct the difference in height
in the higher lift of camshaft. The valves are staying open all the time when the lifter
pumps up. The FE engines are machined to accept stock camshafts only of the same
lift. |
| | | RE: help with my FE, please....... -- John W, 05/12/2003
Chase L, even with a mild cam like a RV Cam, I need to add the adjustable valve train? where do I get this and how hard is it to add? I have never done a job like that, but have done most everything else on a motor, so I should be able to handle it......I HOPE ! lol
what about timing? how much timing can a FE handle? I've been told by some NEVER go beyond 14 or so degrees, and others say 20 or so is fine.......who's right? I do not know how to check total advance, how do I do that? I have the timing set by disconecting the vacume, plugging it off and advancing or retarding the distributor to XX number of degrees.......in my case 12 right now.
thank you all for all the help, I may just have to keep this thing now and NOT use it for target practice as I was thinking before! lol |
| | seen this before -- james, 05/12/2003
When you were installing the cam, did you break it in like the instructions that came with the cam told you to?
Reason I asked is that I made the same mistake one time. I just fired it up and started driving it. the car always had a miss that turned into a backfire under acceleration. I couldn't figure out for love or money what could be wrong until it started ticking like a bad lifter finally. I adjusted lifters and it would run great for about 5 miles then it would start the same tick and miss fire.
I took the intake off and found a chewed up lifter and a round cam lobe from inproper cam break in.
A new cam and a matching set of lifters with a new found a new found attitude for reading instructions cured my problem. (Said in my best southern preacher voice) |
| | | You betcha. Can I get an 'Amen' from the Deacons? ;-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/12/2003
n/m |
| | | | RE: You betcha. Can I get an 'Amen' from the Deacons? ;-) [n/m] -- John W, 05/22/2003
LOL, okay all, got it runnin good finally! THANK GOD OR WHO EVER YOU PRAY TOO!
Added some timing, at 16* initial advance now, reset the points, added dual exhaust and whispered in it's ear(?) if it didn't run better I was setting fire to it, turned the key and it runs great! not sure which part did it, but it works so far! LOL! |
| | | | | Cool, John - I'm happy to hear it. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 05/22/2003
n/m |
| | 390 gets hot -- dan, 07/22/2003
will the sludge in the cooling jacket reduce cooling capacity enough to cause overheating. |
| | RE: help with my FE, please....... -- giacamo, 08/22/2003
Bad condenser or coil check plugs for rich or lean condition |
| 428CJ Cam in stock 390 Block -- Moose, 04/28/2003
I recently put a 428CJ cam in the 390 in my 65 F-100. I now cannot get the truck to time out right. The timing marks on the balancer dance (with the vacuum advance disconected & Plugged.) Can anyone tell me what the correct timing for this application would be? I've got a show coming up this weekend, & I've already paid the entry fee, so I'd really like to take my truck.....
Thanks,
Kyle |
| | RE: 428CJ Cam in stock 390 Block -- Moose, 04/28/2003
I also forgot to add, I'm running a 600 holley (vacuum secondaries) and an Edelbrock performer RPM intake manifold.
Thanks again,
Kyle |
| Unknown heads -- Corey Zimmerman, 04/28/2003
I am in need of serious help. I have a set of cast iron heads that I just removed from my 427FE. There are only three things cast into the heads and it doesn't make sense. There is a Fomoco cast in. The only numbers cast in are 5L27 and then a DIF 12. Does anyone know what these are, where they came from and what the comression chamber CC size is?
Very anxious to know as soon as possible. Thanks. |
| Shouldn't lifter adjustments have locking nuts? -- Pat, 04/28/2003
I have a 67 Mustang with a 390. The heads appear to have been changed for 427 heads.
I curious about the adjustment screws on the rocker arms. There doesn't appear to be a way to prevent the adjustmens from changing. Is this normal?
 |
| | RE: Shouldn't lifter adjustments have locking nuts? -- Wes Adams, 04/29/2003
Yes that is normal for that.The stock ones are just that way. Thay should be hard to turn. If thay are easy to turn then you need to replace the set srew. P.A.W makes new adjustable rockers with a lock nut on them. I hope that helps you. Wes |
| | | RE: Shouldn't lifter adjustments have locking nuts? -- Geoff McNew, 04/30/2003
The factory adjustable rockers (besides a different pushrod end) use an interference thread with an x in-oz minimum torque value, I can't lay my hands on right now, below which you replace the screw or screw and rocker. They work fine until you're talking more spring pressures than the overhung end rockers can handle without shaft deflection causing the rocker's solid bushing to gall the shaft and literally cut it off, KURPLOP goes your rocker arm. Harland Sharpe makes an excellent roller rocker, TRW used to have a kit (I'm talking 15-20 years ago), but, you still have the overhung, or cantilevered rockers at each end of the shafts...and when the spring rates go up, KATINK goes your shaft and KURPLOP goes a rocker and you're running on 7 now. Erson and Shelby make roller rocker shaft assemblies with a base design that uses a truss to grab the shaft at the very end, straddle mounting the end rockers and solving the shaft deflection problem....except for the taller LeMans valve covers you have to buy to clear those big locknuts. |
| | RE:Rocker Arm Specialist -- McQ, 04/30/2003
You might want to check with Rocker Arm Specialist in California about their wide selection of FE rocker arms, shafts, push rods, stands and end supports. They offer reasonably priced rebuilt rockers with lock nut adusters all the way up to roller rockers & accessories. I don't think you'll have any problems finding them if you search Rocker Arm Specialist.
I strongly recommend the lock nut style adjusters. I personally have had problems with the stock style self locking B8A rockers keeping themselves locked where they should be. |
| | | Why not add lock nuts? -- John, 04/30/2003
Lock nuts don't have to be that thick. Why not add lock nuts (if there is room, and if you are using stock springs as per the previous letters). Seems to be the torque was not to below 3 ft-lbs for the type you have without lock nuts. |
| | | RE:Rocker Arm Specialist -- jerry, 12/19/2005
i have a 1972 winsor motor need to know how to ajust the rockerarms they have the locking nuts. also need to know about fuel smell when i start the motor real bad burns the eyes its so bad. have tryed eldbrock carb 600 same holley 600 the same thing and they were new carbs .what can i do about this. the motor was bored out and flat top pistons were put in. also block was saved down. has a small cam also need hlp tks |
| | RE: Shouldn't lifter adjustments have locking nuts? -- michael strunk, 12/21/2005
Those are typical Ford... All adjustable units had them. Crane makes a replacemet stud / nut assembly which works well. |
| 390 performance cam and intake -- coacholy, 04/27/2003
I have a 1969 390 with offy 360 intake, headers,carter afb carb, and a ford performance camshaft in it. I dont know what the specs are on this camshaft? I think they only had one in the book(fordperformancebook)when I bought it about 5 years ago. Does anybody know what the specs are? Also when I installed it I advanced it 4 degrees with the timing gear. Was this the right decision to make? What is the best items? I heard the intake is junk? Is a stock intake better?
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