Skip Navigation Links.
 |  gas in oil / mechanical fuel pump -- Robert Twine, 04/06/2003
The subject says it all. Oil was thinned down, no oil pressure. I replaced the mechanical Holley fuel pump with an identical Mr. Gasket product. Oil pressure back in the 50 pound range, however, new oil is still getting gas mixed in. I am considering an electric fuel pump, any other suggestions would be appreciated. |
|  | RE: gas in oil / mechanical fuel pump -- Charlie, 04/06/2003
I had this problem a few years back. Changing the fuel pump fixed the fuel in oil problem. Unfortunately the valve stem seals flaked apart from the gas (older engine). Some miles later they worked their way into the oil pan and then the oil pump screen became blocked from the pieces. The engine froze up took one main and 2 rods. Every engine rebuild since has been screened.
Just food for thought
Charlie |
| | | RE: gas in oil / mechanical fuel pump -- Robert Twine, 04/07/2003
Thanks Charlie, let me add some more info. The engine is a 390, bored .030 over. The crank was .010, with the correct bearings.
The heads, cam, intake are all new Edelbroch parts. The complete rotating assembly is all new, in fact the only thing original is the block and the timing cover. So, I am at a loss, the engine has less than 100 miles. |
| | |  | RE: gas in oil / mechanical fuel pump -- Anthony, 04/07/2003
Check the carb. If the floats are too high, or the bowls leak down after shut-off, the raw fuel will go down the intake and leak past the rings. I had this problem with a holley with a bad/ blown power valve on my 390. |
| | |  | Holley mech. fuel pump = problem -- Royce Peterson, 04/07/2003
Holley mechanical pumps are notorious for failing in any number of ways. They make good carburetors though.
Royce |
 | 428 rotating assembly -- Frank Zabski, 04/06/2003
I'm building a 428 c6me-a standard bore block for a Cobra 427 (428) street project.
I need any rotating assembly recomendations or any company that sells the entire setup balanced.
Thanks.
BTW, this will be a street only application. I want something reliable and will not be pushing speed. Also, it will have rear exhaust not sidepipes.
Thanks in advance. |
| | RE: 428 rotating assembly -- 67FAIRLANE, 04/10/2003
Flatlander racing has various combos available for fe's check them out |
| Head ID -- Martin, 04/05/2003
I have bought several heads, with the following numbers:
D3AE-G2B
D3VE-A2A
D5AE-A3A with exhaust manifold D5AE-3DAD
D5AE-A3A with exhaust manifold D5AE- 9431-AB
D5AE-A2A with exhaust manifold D7TE-9430-
AB
Can anyone tell me where these heads are from??
Thanks. |
| | RE: Head ID -- Royce Peterson, 04/05/2003
They are not 360 or 390. All are mid 1970's, D3 = 1973, D5 = 1975 etc. There were no performance castings made in this period so none are desirable for any application.
Royce |
| | | RE: Head ID -- Dan L., 06/15/2004
Hey Martin, also please note that the info for the Michigan Casting Corp (MCC)heads seems to be under the valve cover along with the cast date such as 4F12 (yr.mo.day). The Cleveland Foundry (CF) Seems to have it's info. on the intake runners. MCC also has a rib on the intake runner from some I've seen. The heads I'm most curious about have a Exhaust bowl shaped like the Intakes on the D5AE-BA. So far others have a guide almost buried in the cast-in boss on the exhaust side. So if you want to talk to me in person call. It seems,also, like any engines who's heads have been into a machine shop may not match unless you hold a knife on the machinist. "D5AE-BA", call me, 907-644-0857 Thanks. |
| | RE: Head ID -- dan l., 06/15/2004
Hey Martin, I'm no casting pro but....These are all castings I have been seeing lately all over Alaska and by phone for 351m and 400's. as a matter of fact I 'd like to see the exhaust bowls on the D3AE-G2B as there is one on the F-250 in the driveway. As of late I need a D5AE-BA to match a head that already has to much money in it. I like to my engines balanced with stuff that matchs and am leary of trusting the old grease tails of, " they're the same".So if you see one please e-mail me! |
| | | Michigan Casting Center. -- Dave Shoe, 06/15/2004
An earlier post referenced MCC incorrectly. Ford opened it's Michigan Casting Center in 1971. It was producing in volume in 1973.
As always, expect errors, but this link might give you an idea as to what you've got:
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod/engine3.html
Shoe. |
| 428 CJ intake -- winze8126, 04/05/2003
I've found a 428 that checks out CJ except for the intake, it has one that looks like a 390 4V intake. The number's are CBAE 9425-F and date 8B2 . The heads are C80E 6090-N, date 8L15 & 8L24, The block is date 9J4 with extra ribs,with a C on the back.The crank has 1U on it & Any thoughts? could the intake have been swapped or is it possible that some CJ'S had this type intake?
TIA, winze |
| | RE: 428 CJ intake -- winze8126, 04/05/2003
sorry, I meant C8AE 9425-F & date 8B2 for the intake. What would the numbers be for a 428 CJ intake? I also only have the pass side CJ C80E 9430 D exhaust manifold, I need a driver's side CJ exhaust manifold. |
| | | | RE: Probably a later swap-on. Here's good info on CJ intakes... -- winze8126, 04/05/2003
thanks, you are probably right about the swap, but it's never safe to say "never" when talikng about old Fords,especially the FE's. I talked to the guy i purchased the engine from & he said the original car was wrecked & the engine was sold to be put in a truck & that the engine had a aluminum intake(probably aftermarket) and was swapped out for the 390 type intake. This would explain why it had 1 truck exhaust manifold & 1 CJ type manifold. Also there was a 390 manual flywheel bolted on to it, I am assuming the 428 was originally hooked to an automatic trans & the 390 flywheel caused a bad vibration so it was assumed that the engine was damaged. It was pulled out and left sitting in the woods covered by an old chevy hood for 8 years, however the heads and intake were removed & stored inside. The engine was a little rusty but wasn't stuck and upon dissasembly I have found no damage other than 3 piston skirts were broke off right on the very bottom of the pistons. Is it possible this was caused by trying to use a 390 flywheel. Also is there a way to use use a manual 390 flywheel with out having the engine internally balanced? I'd like to put this engine in my 67 ford truck but the 428 manual flywheel is pricey & a CJ flywheel won't work beacause of interferance with the 11.5 clutch it requires & my truck bellhousing. Any thoughts on this swap anyone?
thanks, winze |
| | | | | Skirts..... -- Royce Peterson, 04/05/2003
Ford piston skirts often break off. It does not have to have any other problem to happen, they just break off when they get 100,000 miles or so one or two at a time. Cast pistons do things like that.
You can get a truck 390 balanced to 428 specs when you rebuild the motor or get the short block balanced without a flywheel and use a 390 truck flywheel as is. Talk it over with your machinist. A lot depends on how the rest of the motor is done. If you use a light forged piston it would be a lot easier to balance.
Royce |
| | | | | RE: Probably a later swap-on. Here's good info on CJ intakes... -- BarryMcLarty, 05/26/2003
C80E 9425-C or A,and C8AE 6312 C are common casting numbers for C.J."s |
| misc parts finishes? -- richard, 04/05/2003
68 390GT. What is the correct finish for the following parts;
steering gear box (believe its natural cast iron)
power steering ram (natural..black?)
crankcase vent tube and connectors to mainifold (U shaped tube from 2 points on intake manifold to valve cover on pass side)
Also, what is the best way to clean up an alternator? Can it be partially dissasembled to allow blasting/dipping the housing and cleaning the innards, or is it just easiest to buy a new one?
Any help/info apprecited.... |
| | RE: misc parts finishes? -- Bob T, 04/06/2003
Steering box and ram are natural metal, PCV tube was painted blue with the engine, alternator can be taken apart and the housing bead blasted. |
| 332/352 heads or? -- John, 04/04/2003
Have found some FE heads. Casting numbers are 6090E/EDC. I know they could be 332/352 heads but they have very large intake/exhaust ports. The datecodes are 78X and 79C. Could it be something else than 332/352 heads?
John |
| | They are plain old 332/352 heads. N/M -- Royce Peterson, 04/04/2003
|
| | All '58-'65 FE heads had the large ports. -- Dave Shoe, 04/04/2003
The small port heads didn't appear until 1966. Before then, all FE heads had the large port size.
Shoe. |
| | | What are they worth? -- John, 04/06/2003
Thanks again. What are they worth?
John |
| | | | Value -- Royce Peterson, 04/07/2003
They sell for about $50 a pair around here. Very common heads.
Royce |
| | | | | Re: $50? -- McQ, 04/07/2003
Common FE heads do sell for approximately $50 around here too. Common heads to me are C1AE, C4AE, C6AE-U/R, C7AE, C8AE, D2TE. However, if the heads you have John, EDC 332/352, are the early production, first 90 days of '58 Ford/Edsel, they very likely have machined combustion chambers. These are not real common around here. They are somewhat desireable to FE builders although they really offer no more HP potential than some of the common heads mentioned. I've seen them sell easily in the $100 range. But again they have to be the early heads with machined combustion chambers. That's important. |
| | | | | | RE: Re: $50? -- John, 04/16/2003
Thanks. This heads have cast type combustion chambers so $50 would be the going rate. However, here in Europe the price figure might be something else. Thats because average FE parts are hard to get over here.
John |
| Power Brakes........ -- Chuck, 04/04/2003
Simple question.
'68 XR-7 w/ manual brakes.
What EXACTLY do I need to change it over to power brakes? |
| | RE: Power Brakes........ -- Chuck, 04/04/2003
I found the conversion kit, but....
I have another Cougar WITH power brakes.
What do I take off that one to put on the XR-7?
Brake booster....and what else? |
| | | RE: Power Brakes........ -- Royce Peterson, 04/04/2003
Pedal assembly is different too. Personally I would not do it, the pedal effort becomes very touchy with power drum brakes. It makes panic stops very unpredictable. Better to save your money and make a conversion to disc brakes at the same time.
Royce |
| | | | RE: Power Brakes........ -- Chuck, 04/04/2003
It actually has disc brakes all around.
It was originally a 302 but now it has a 390.
What should I do? |
| | | | | not a problem -- James, 04/05/2003
You just need a perportioning valve that is for 4 wheel disc brakes. I had to buy one for my Mustang when I switched over from drum to disc and it made world of difference in the way the car stopped. While I was ordering my disc front/drum rear valve I noticed that there was a Disc/Disc vavle as well. One for powered Disc/Disc and one for none powered. I bought it from Power Brake specialist. It was one Ben Franklin but it was well worth it. If you do not have a cam shaft that is over about 224 degress at .50, I would put the power brake boster and foot pedal assembly on it. I drove a disc brake CJ car that came with no PB booster and I thought that it was a strange experience. You need that PB booster if you are not wildly cammed. My .002 |
| 390 GT Oil Pump recommendation -- Gary Adam, 04/03/2003
Getting ready to start on assembling warmed
up 67 390 GT engine, 4-speed car, Edelbrock
heads, RPM intake, Crane cam (236 @ .050,
.572 lift), Crane adjustable rockers, FPA headers, stock pistons. Wondering if we should
go with stock oil pump or upgrade to hi volume
Any brand recommended if upgrading? What is
recommended for oil pump to block passage
enlargement mods? Not a race car just hopefully hot street. Oh yeah, installing a windage tray as well. Any suggestions/tips very much appreciated. Thanks in advance!
|
| Tuning my 390 -- Kevin, 04/02/2003
I got a car from my uncle for FREE and it just happend to be a 1965 Mercury Montclair, im currently restoring it ... engine first .. are there any common tweaks/tricks that can help up the horespower cheaply. eventually i would like to "Edlebrock" the hell outta the thing but first things first. any way thanks for whatever help you can give me. |
| '67 390 radiator -- Ed McManus, 04/02/2003
Is there a part number on the radiator itself that can be checked? '67 Fairlane 390 The one I am looking at is still installed in the car and seems to fit the radiator mounts just fine. It is also a 3 flue radiator. Thanks, Ed |
| | RE: '67 390 radiator -- richard, 04/03/2003
Believe they don't have a specific marking on the radiator, but could be wrong. They did come with a metal tag coded to the engine. AMK makes repros...
http://www.amkproducts.com/radiator_caps.asp |
| | | Very few Ford radiators were tagged - most IDs are die-stamped. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/03/2003
n/m |
| | Look down the L/H side for a stamped ID number. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/03/2003
n/m |
| | | RE: Look down the L/H side for a stamped ID number. [n/m] -- Ed McMamus, 04/05/2003
Thanks Mr. F. Down the side is stamped
C7OE. Ed |
| | | | Look again - still missing at least one letter, following. [n/m] -- Mr F, 04/05/2003
n/m |
| | | | | RE: Look again - still missing at least one letter, following. [n/m] -- Ed McMamus, 04/07/2003
I will look one day this week when I back from the base. Thanks again, Ed |
|