if these engines were not in salt water, they could be ok. wide open on the cc throttle was only about 3800 rpm! many of these engines will clean up and stay std. bore. The bolcks are the only thing of value as the heads are low perf heads and cast 390 cranks. Very few cc engines were machined as side oilers thoug they used the so casting. No performance issues unless you think they might let you run one at lemans.

value is $100-$2500 with the low end $ being a salt water block that is only good for the cross bolts & caps, $2500 for a low hour fresh water block that will stay std bore

n/m

PGB B and PGB B1 are 67/8 fullsize ford and mercury applications. hawkrod

...to use a Ford DuraSpark distributor to trigger an MSD 6A (or similar). Cheap and virtually bulletproof! I have put thousands of miles on vehicles so equipped.

Regards,
Dan Davis
http://www.sea-tools.com/mpc

http://www.msdignition.com/

They sell the kit to adapt your factory tach. The sales person will need to know it is a current sensing tach.

I have the same setup in one of my '68 Cougar GTE's and it works great with the factory tach.

Royce

I'm only guessing, but I suspect your valve springs are not up to the task.

I believe it may be time to disassemble the engine to do a complete analysis of what it's condition is.

If you want to rev, it's important to have a good feel of the entire engine's condition.

Can you tell us more about the engine?

Shoe.

Be sure the secondarries are opening all the way. Just put some modeling clay or something similar on the linkage and then take a drive where you can get the secondaries to open up. The clay will smear, etc, and you can see if they are opening all the way.

Many times they are not.

Try a performer RPM when I had a 360 degree equaflow on mine it just generally wasn't that great, had good low RPM power, but the RPM had better upper, the 360* has really small ports that have sharp angles and weird lumps in the ports, I'd suggest the new intake or a good tuneup and agree with Shoe on replacing the valve springs

you have a much rarer 427 cougar trans for a 68 GTE! maybe it was put in the shelby due to a lack of correct parts. the shelby should have had a PGB-AF with the cast iron tailshaft housing. the ID number you gave us is a metuchen built ford number so my bet is it was from a shelby but was the wrong one (maybe it was one of the first CJ cars?) or he had a GT500 not a KR (i'm guessing and i can't be sure, my book doesn't have a trans application for GT500's!). hawkrod

My Motor's manual lists it as a 1968 Cougar 427 with column shift. Other 1968 Cougar C6s were for floor shift 390s.

The only Mustang listed for 1968 is the PCA-P2 with a 390-4V.

I'm sure my list is incomplete.

I know the 1969 CJ and PI tails were iron, but I don't know about the earlier versions.

Shoe.

Kevin Marti can tell you if it came from a Shelby since you have the VIN stamping. Give him what you have and he will give you a report on the whole car.

The trans was originally intended for a Cougar 427 GTE. These transmissions did not come with the cast iron tail shaft originally. I own two Cougar GTE's right now.

Shoe's Motor manual is confused regarding column shift, as far as I know there were no column shift Cougars until the 1974 model year.

This looks to me like a factory error but it would not detract from the value of the transmission. Many GTE owners would pay good money for it. The owner of that Shelby would like to have it also I suspect.

What ever happened on this tranny? I've been looking for one! Thanks.

The downshift rod should only come into play at WOT. Part throttle down-shifts should be handled by the vacuum modulator. Pull the vacuum hose off the modulator and make sure there is no tranny fluid leaking out. To adjust the downshift rod, press the accelerator to the floor and hold it there (use a pole or friend). The downshift lever on the tranny should have a little bit of play before it reaches it's stopping point. Also, once adjusted, have a friend actuate the pedal to ensure proper movement of the downshift lever. At part throttle, the downshift lever should not have moved much. If adjusted inproperly, it will cause poor performance and could damage the trans.

Do you have a spring on the carb end to hold the kickdown rod in the off position until activated by the linkage.If not,the kickdown could be activating at part throttle .

Did you trim the intake gasket around the oil drains on the head as the edelbrock heads have smaller drains and they are further out on the heads than the original. they tend to slow the oil flow and fill the rocker area with oil if you have a high volume oil pump. valve seals cant keep all the oil out. also may need restrictors in the oil feed to the rockers. .090 sold by gessford are recommended for the street. just a couple of ideas.

I think if you go on the Network 54 FE site there were a few threads of the topic of the Felpro 1246/1247 gaskets. You can use the search function on the site to find these but if I remember correctly some had no problems with these gaskets but most didn't like them. A couple of alternates are the older Felpro MS90145 and Victor MS15166X. These are unlike the newer 1246/1247 in that there is a thin metal sheet sandwiched in the gasket. These don't have a tendency to squirm like the 1246/1247 Felpros. I am using the Printoseal on my 428 but if you look at it with the valve cover off it looks pretty wavy between the ports but is sealing OK at this point. I have had good luck with the MS90145 which you can get at any auto parts store and will probably go back to it if I pull the intake off again. One other area to check is the mating surface between the head and intake especially if you have not run the intake before and bought it used (Its a PI intake so I assume you are not the original purchaser from Ford?) Double check the fit of the intake on heads without the gaskets and run a feeler gauge at the top and bottom of the ports. Its easy at the front of the engine and that will give you a good idea if the angles match. Some of the older manifolds may have been milled so it doesn't hurt to check. It's a long story but I had a big problem with oil getting into the intake port with the associated hated smoking. It turned out the head had been machined incorrectly with causing about a .02 gap at the bottom of the port between the intake and the head. I pulled the intake several times to try and get it to seal and finally had to pull the heads to fix the problem. Good luck. I hope it is just a simple gasket problem.

It's tough to offer opinions on an engine build unless we have an idea what you pllan to do with the truck.

What kind of gasoline do you plan to run? Will it be a daily driver? How quiet do you want it to be? How fast? What kinda mileage, what kinda tires?

These wil get us into the ballpark.

As for the transplant, I'm no wiz on truck transplants, go the www.Ford-Trucks.com forum, or perhaps the main forum at this website (click "general subjects" text on left of screen), may be able to offer technical specifics on the refit.

Shoe.

The brass plugs and inthe holes used for the thermactor emissions system.

All heads after '66 had the cast bosses for this although many were not drilled out.

...the casting number only identifies the raw casting. Any machining after that will change the service part number, but not the casting number.

Regards,
Dan
http://www.sea-tools.com/mpc