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 |  fe heads -- mike shaw, 11/10/2002
yes im trying to put a 428 in my 67 stang but cant find the manifolds my heads are the c8ae-h will any other head work and where can i find them |
|  | 428CJ manifolds are our only choice. -- Dave Shoe, 11/11/2002
The C8AE-H head was standard on 390 Mustangs in 1968-1969, but the exhausts were drilled for the Fairlane/Mustang engine bay.
An alternative is the 390 Fairlane/Mustang type of exhaust manifold, but these should only be used in stock "correct" 390 builds, as they flow rather poorly.
If you drill the 8 necessary holes in your C8 heads (no deeper than the factory holes!), you can match CJ manifolds to your heads.
FPA headers for a 390GT Mustang would be your best performance option - I mention this since dropping a 428 into a 1967 Mustang sounds like a performance move.
Hooker car headers will not port-match any C8AE-H heads.
Shoe. |
| | | RE: 428CJ manifolds are our only choice. -- mike shaw, 11/11/2002
where is FPA AND HOW DO I GET IN TOUCH WILL I STILL HAVE TO DRILL THE HOLE IN MY HEADS THANKS ABUNCH MIKE |
| | | | RE: 428CJ manifolds are our only choice. -- curt rising, 11/11/2002
www.fordpowertrain.com |
| | | |  | RE: 428CJ manifolds are our only choice. -- mike shaw, 11/11/2002
will i need to drill the extra holes thanks |
 | Edelbrock 3X2 intake -- Ted Young, 11/10/2002
Are the Edelbrock FE 3X2 intakes any good? How do they compare to the factory three-twos?
Thanks,
Ted Young |
| | RE: Edelbrock 3X2 intake -- Mike McQuesten, 11/10/2002
I think the E-brock 3X2 intake is a great conversation piece hanging on the shop wall. Or they'd look good in a street rod application.
They were designed to run a Stromberg(Leaker) carb. They look cool. But there's no way they're in the same league with the Ford tri power system.
Carl's Ford Parts is now offering in conjunction with Holley a brand new Ford style tri power carb in 350cfm for all three carbs. I'm thinking about putting my originals on eBay. |
| Hi Pressure Oil Pump For 68 428 CJ? -- Jim, 11/10/2002
Am wondering if the hi pressure oil pump should be replaced with stock unit while the engine is out. Had rod bearing failure after rebuild and many say hi press pump puts too much oil in upper part of engine. Need assurance form anyone that has had positive experience w/Melling MEL-M57HP pump. If I continue with it there'll be 6 quarts in pan.
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| | You need the M57HV pump -- Royce Peterson, 11/10/2002
The high volume pump works much better but requires restricting oil to the rocker shafts. A .060" restrictor installed in each oil supply holes works perfectly.
If you don't want to restrict oil, just use the standard pump and a baffled oil pan such as one of the ones from Milodon.
Royce Peterson |
| carb id? -- matt, 11/09/2002
have a card with fomoco plate with numbers c6af L (second line b 6fd) 1.12 stamp on side. i've looked almost everywhere and can't find it, any help? suppose to come off 68 390 but not willing to put money on it. any help appreciated. |
| Big block ford -- Tim Schulte, 11/09/2002
I've had this engine in my garage for about 25 yearsand figured it was about time to get it out of here. On the front of the block it is stamped 57-352 on the bellhousing end it is cast 66-427 the only other numbers I find on the block is W 9 F 26. I was wondering what something like this is worth and were I would go about selling it. It apperars to be in very good condition I'm sure It is standard bore and has no real wear visible. Thanks TIM |
|  | RE: Big block ford -- joe dula, 11/09/2002
how complete is it ? where are you ? did it run when pulled ? joe dula, oregon |
| | depends on what size engine and how complete.... -- hawkrod, 11/09/2002
you say it is standard bore but is it a 360 390 or a 428? the date code is a 1970 but the rest of the info does not provide any usefull information. is it a 2 or 4 barrel what is the casting number on the crankshaft? it is probably not a 428 as you did not make any note of a large letter near the 66-427 marking on the back so i will assume it is a 360 or 390 and being that, it would have to be a galaxie or truck engine. complete and running maybe 250-500 depending on how clean and how desperate the buyer. hawkrod |
| twinturbo 352 -- Louis 466, 11/09/2002
I am a newcomer on this forum from holland and have a question about my 352.I've build several hp BB fords(429-460),but now I want to put 2 turbo's on my 352.I was told by someone overhere that the shape of the chambers is to bad for this application.If it's possible,what else do I have to modify.what brand of turbo's should I take.this is all for a streetdriven 62 monterey commuter.
thanx Louis 466 |
| | RE: twinturbo 352 -- Travis Miller, 11/09/2002
A turbo will blow the bottom end out of your 352. The 352 is a good engine but the rods and cast pistons are not strong enough to take any kind of serious boost from a turbo.
Louis, tell us about cars and cruising over in Holland. |
| | | RE: twinturbo 352 -- Davy Gurley, 11/09/2002
I was at a car show in Gunnison, Colorado, a couple years ago and a guy had a single turbo on a 390 in a 1 ton truck. He was running propane for fuel. He said it had been on the truck for about 15 years and hadn't had any problems with it. He may have had a wastegate on it, I don't remember. He used it to pull a gooseneck trailer. This guy lived in Montrose, Colorado. Twin turbos might overboost that 352. I'd sure use heavy rods(428) if I were doing this and get a steel crank out of a 361 FT motor.....Might just work |
| | | | RE: twinturbo 352 -- Louis 466, 11/10/2002
Thanx guys,If I'm gonna build this engine,I will take the engine apart completely and as you both say strenghten those parts necessary.
Louis 466 |
| | | RE: twinturbo 352 -- Louis 466, 11/10/2002
Travis, to start with:it's a small country.There is one big meeting every first saturday each month with approx. 900-1000 cars.then there are the smaller meetings in the weekends during summer.On the big meeting 20% is junk,50%is nice,30% is top.most of them are muscle cars,just a small percentage are hotrod's.there is trend towards 60's rare muscle cars and wagons.the reason there are so little rod's is because it's nearly impossible to get them registered,wheter you build it or buy it (from the states)
They consider them new cars so you have to pay full tax and everything on a new car has to be on a rod also.but there is a new law in holland wich says that if a car has a registration in another european country it gets one here also.so there are coming more cars now from germany,zweden and england.I now from a guy who has bought a hotrod price winner from the USA ,a 100000 dollar car wich has been in several magazine overthere.the overall quality of the cars is good and most of them are running on LPG(propane).
it consumes as much as fuel and it's performance is a bit less but it's much cheaper.the price of a gallon leaded fuel is approx. 4 dollars overhere.I'm running my 466 on fuel.it always hurts when I have to pay at the gasstation.but I always say ; gas is for cooking.
I have 2 cars.
A 79 ranchero painted dark red metallic wich had a 351M,but now has a 460 overbored.specs;
71 block,10.5 to 1 dome pistons,balanced,blueprinted,milodon oilpan ,hooker headers,weiand billet waterpump,crane cam 296-300,234@ 050,556-563 lift,crane goldrace roller rockers manley valves,flowed stock heads edelbrock performer rpm intake,holley 750 dp.the block is painted
dark purple\blue-ish metallic(yes it stays on)the complete front and rear suspension is blasted,sanded by hand and painted body color.the rearend now is a 77 lincoln with discs and 3.55 gears.all I have to do now is save some money for billet 17 inch wheels.my other car is a 62 merc monterey commuter(wagon) all original with billet wheels.only 2 of this model in holland and from what I now also in europe.this is the car with the 352 where I want to build the turbo's on.
in what sunshine state do you live in?are there any rooms for rent for a couple of gearheads for a short holiday ;)
if you want to know more just let me know,I hope all of my spelling was correct because I did it without a translation guide.
greets Louis
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| | | | RE: twinturbo 352 -- Travis Miller, 11/10/2002
Larry, thanks for letting us guys over here in "the states" know about hot rodding in the your part of the world. Wow, 4 dollars a gallon for gas. In Kentucky where I'm from, the top grade (premium unleaded - 93 octane) goes for $1.50 per gallon. Regular unleaded - 87 octane is around $1.25 per gallon. We can buy good leaded racing gas at the dragstrip for what you pay for your fuel.
If you rebuild your 352, consider making it a 390 by boring and a longer crank. Years ago my Dad had both 352 and 390. Strange as it may seem, the 390 got better gas mileage than the 352. Plus it was a lot more powerful. |
| C2A/C3A ex. maniolds & starter? -- Mike McQuesten, 11/09/2002
Here's the package:
'64 427 with a 184 tooth flywheel enclosed in a C6OE bellhousing backed with a toploader 4 speed. A rebuilt correct bendix starter. Exhaust manifolds are the long style HP '63 - '64 406/427.
The problem:
The copper starter stud where the cable bolts on interferes with the right side 427 manifold.
The question:
Was there a specific starter from FoMoCo for the HP manifold?
Remember this starter in question is a rebuild commonly available from parts stores. The copper stud is approximately one inch long.
This question is for a friend who has this combination in a '61 Starliner.
In my '60 with shorty HP manifolds I have the original starter and the stud is only a half inch.
Second question:
Should my friend just go ahead and cut that rebuilt starters stud down to a half inch? I'm sure this is what he'll do to allow the necessary clearance.
We were just wondering if anyone out there knows if the '63-'64 406/427 starters were unique with a shorter stud? |
| | RE: C2A/C3A ex. maniolds & starter? -- SDP, 11/09/2002
Mike, we ran into this a few years back on a 63 1/2 Galaxie. As I remember we ended up having the "nose cone" off of the FE starter installed onto a 351M/400 starter case. The "M" motor case used a flat tab for a bolt to thread into. This setup cleared the "long style" cast headers no problem........ |
| | RE: C2A/C3A ex. maniolds & starter? -- Todd Bolzer, 11/19/2002
Been there too. The 63 long manifolds are made for the old style non-pop top starter with the drive (bendix) on the end of the shaft. Your friend will find that even a short stud might not be enough. I like the idea of using the 400/351M type starter with the tab. Another way I have heard is to open up the back of the bell housing to clear the old style bendix. Good Luck!
I have been told that the 65 and up long manifolds are made for the new pop-top style starter. |
| | | RE: C2A/C3A ex. maniolds & starter? -- Mike McQuesten, 11/19/2002
Thanks Todd. Your points & comments are appreciated. He hasn't finished the job up yet. He likes SDP's suggestion too about running a 351/400M starter with an FE nose. And I think you may have heard correctly about the '65 - '67 427 Full size Ford exhaust manifolds clearing the '65 & later starter. Sure makes sense. |
| | | | RE: C2A/C3A ex. maniolds & starter? -- Barry B, 11/20/2002
Hi Mike! I'm just going by my foggy memory but I seem to recall the old 406/427 starters had the stud sticking out in a different location in order to clear the header. The good folks here can correct me if I'm totally wrong though. |
| | | | | RE: C2A/C3A ex. maniolds & starter? -- Mike McQuesten, 11/20/2002
That's what we've been trying to find out Barry! We can't find any old part #s that would indicate that there was a uniqueness about a 406/427 starter. But of course we don't have access to all the parts books.....yet but we keep trying to collect them. Thanks for thinking of us. Again, my friends is leaning to following SDP advice. Seems like the easiest way vs. finding a 06/27 unique starter.
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| | | | | | Hey Mike, all is not lost..... -- kevin, 11/21/2002
I ran into this ten years ago with a 64. I found another case that rotated the stud to the right position. It was too long ago to remember much about it, but I can make a phone call, and get back with you on what the # and original application was for. I was shocked to learn about it from an old time friend I provided the engine for. I had all new flywheel (184 tooth), pp, 26 spline disc, in 11-1/2", and newer bell to fit into it. I originally was putting a Lakewood on it, but he wanted it to look stock, so on went the bell. That is if you dont want to go to the newer set up, and keep it looking "period" correct. E-mail me if you want to know. I'd be happy to help. |
| | | | | | | | RE: Quite the contrary.. -- Mike McQuesten, 11/21/2002
No way Barry, that link to a past question about this subject helps a lot.
And thanks too kevin. I will e-mail you with some details as to the problem.
At least now we're not thinking we're totally dazed & confused. Well that's what John and I think. Don't ask our wives. |
| C6AE-U heads -- Mike, 11/09/2002
Were these heads standard on a '66 Fairlane GTA? I'd had only heard of C6AE-R heads on them? |
| | RE: C6AE-U heads -- Mike McQuesten, 11/09/2002
Just to get a thread going on this interesting question my theory is this:
The '66 Fairlane GT or GTA 390 used the C6AE-R head.
Maybe late in '66 or early in '67 the C6AE-U was phased into production. So it's possible that there were some late '66 Fairlane GTs with these heads.
It's much more likely that the C6AE-U was used on the early '67 390 GT or even the standard 4V and 2V applications.
All just conjecture. I too would like to know more.
Recently John Saxon found a set of "GT" heads in a boneyard up North. I put the quotes around GT because we don't know for sure that they were from a real GT. The heads were not bolted on an engine. But there was a C6OE unibody exhaust manifold on one side and a C7OE bolted to the other. They looked like a matching set of heads except one is a C6AE-U and the other is a C7AE. Other than the casting #s they look identical. Could this be a factory installation? I personally wouldn't rule it out.
Good question Mike. Lets see what others may contribute. |
| | | It sounds factory to me. -- Dave Shoe, 11/09/2002
The C6AE-U and C7AE (no "-A" suggests late 1966 early 1967 production) head sombo does sound like a factory stock combo. The two castings are the same, as best as I can tell.
I don't agree that 390GTs universally got C6AE-R heads. I find they got them as often as any other FE engine of 1966-67.
Shoe. |
| | | | RE: So you're saying... -- Mike McQuesten, 11/09/2002
that a '66 Fairlane GT/GTA may have been factory equipped with either -R- or -U- heads?
What logic or reasoning would support this? Not that there necessarily had to be logical reasoning but I'm just wondering why there would be two such different heads bolted on the '66 390GT engine.
My "theory" that the '66 GT 390 got the -R- heads is just that, pure conjecture based on possible pretzel logic that engineers may have wanted the higher intake port head for the somewhat higher performance 390 over the standard 4V/2V. But then they found that the -U- head and the C7 head would suffice and help meet emission standards..?
I just don't have enough 390GTs lying around or easy access to looking at them anymore.
Again, just wondering. |
| | | | | RE. Heads -- Mike, 11/09/2002
So whas the difference between C6AE-U heads and C6AE-R heads ?..... |
| | | | | | RE. R vs. U -- Mike McQuesten, 11/10/2002
It would be wise for you to search this forum for past discussions/threads that address your question specifically, i.e., C6AE-R vs. -U-, vs. C8AE-H, D2TE-AA, etc. Your question is a good one and has been asked numerous times.
But here's the basics as for differences between the -U- and -R- head:
The C6AE-R is very similar to "early" Non emission FE heads from '58 into '67 including the vaunted C8OE-N CJ head. The -R- head has the tall intake runners and a high-exit exhaust port(5/16" higher than the -U- head. An advantage the -R- head has over the early heads is that they are cast with the bosses that allow a person to run either the "GT, '66-'68 or Improved Performance(IP) '69, exhaust manifolds or they can be drilled/tapped to accept the much better CJ exhaust manifolds.
The C6AE-U head is in the same category as C7AE/A, C8AE-H, D2TE-AA head. They have a short intake runner and a low-exit exhaust port.
My opinion is that the -U- head and its ilk are fine heads for all around street performance where low end torque is desirable for hauling heavy vehicles, i.e., pick ups/trucks etc. The -R- head and its equivalents are better for higher performance |
| | | | | | | RE. credit due... -- Mike McQuesten, 11/10/2002
I forgot to give credit for the information I provided regards the -R- head vs. -U- head, etc.
To this very forum! Over a year ago or so I thought I knew quite a lot about the FE. Wrong! I've learned a lot more right here thanks to many who continue to offer their patient support and valuable information.
So Mike do that search and you'll find that Dave Shoe along with many others have provided lots of "printable" facts worth filing for future reference. |
| cobra jet bellhousing -- anthony, 11/08/2002
along with the motor i purchased listed below i also picked up what the guy called a cobra jet bellhousing. it has a hump in it so it can accept a larger clutch disc and right in the middle of the bellhousing is a large z. is there such a thing as a cobra jet bellhousing or are all the bellhousings the same thanks |
| | Re: c6oe -- Mike McQuesten, 11/09/2002
The same bellhousing was used starting in 1966 with the Fairlane/Comet 390, stick shift transmissions either 3 or 4 speed. This bell was used in Mustangs, Cougars, Torinos, Montegos that were FE equipped. Many of these bellhousings have a part# C6OE.... and some don't they just have a big Z like yours.
I think you have the correct bellhousing. It can be called a Cobra Jet bellhousing. It sounds cool & exotic. But the truth is a '66 Fairlane with a 390-2V & 3 speed on the tree used the exact same bellhousing. |
| fe id -- anthony, 11/08/2002
i purchased what i was told was a 390gt motor. since i know nothing about fe motors i took what the guy said as granted. after reading a posting on vintage mustang about 428 blocks i think mine may be a 428 block instead of the 390 because on the back of my block there is a large A. did 390 blocks come with this A also or was it 428 specific. |
| | RE: fe id -- Rollie H., 11/09/2002
The A in the back of the block isn't a definitive marker of a 428 engine. The only sure way to identify the cubic inches is to measure the bore and stroke.
The A marked block is a good indicator of the blocks used to build 428 engines though. A close look into the water jackets through the freeze plug openings may uncover a "428" cast into the block.
Measuring the gap between the cylinders helps determine wall thickness. Sonic testing should be done to be sure though. |
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