hi curt,
good questions - i also have the 'A' block - std. from a t-bird - from those i questioned there isn't a whole lot of difference to be concerned with - some claim that if your going into the 6500 rpm range it may - i don't plan on doing that - and if i were to i wouldn't go there without trying to convert to four bolt mains - now it gets way to expensive - i plan an occasional trip down the 1/4 - the rest will be street beatin' - i hope others respond to this thread - the more info. the better... good luck. rick

It depends on what sort of usage you want to build for. Street, strip, or some combination of the two. A set of headers, and a full roller setup with a medium performance cam should bump you to 450HP very streetable HP. A single plain intake with an 850cfm carb running at 6500rpm (I noticed the SCJ) should achieve 500 not quite as streetable HP. It would probably require a little more cam to get it done. It's going to cost you torque down low. I'm no expert, I'm just regurgitating some knowledge I've learned from this website. Hopefully one of the others will confirm or deny my analysis.

...one can send in items to be signed by Mr. Shelby for a fee. I am not sure of the details. Maybe try asking here: http://www.shelbyamerican.com/contact.asp

Cheers,
Dan

you should be able to send things to the foundation..I had a couple of dashs signed at a SAAC convention a couple of years ago $100 each..Have pictures of grand daughters shaking his hands that was pulished in Mustang Illustrated a once in lifetime thing...Go for it hubby will love it....before it gets too late..

The C7ME is common to all FE and FT block castings, whether 330FT, 352, 360, 361FT, 390, 391FT, 410, 427, or 428.

The one you found is from the 1968 model year, so it won't be a 352 or 410, but it could be any of the other displacements.

You'll want to look on the flywheel face of the block for any large "scratched on" text characters which protrude from the block about an eighth of an inch nad are generally 2" tall or more. An "A", "C", or "X", indicates a 428 block.

If the rear face has "66-427" marked on it, it might be a 427, but more likely it will be a regular FE displacement which used the 427 rear panel only,as there are lots of these castings out there. If it is a real 427, it'll also have tall scratch marks such as "I", "II", or "H" on the rear face. Don't get your hopes up, however.

Check the bore diameter. That'll get you close to the intended application. If you have a drill bit, use a 15/64" bit to "feeler gauge" between all the cylinder jackets (gotta remove all six core plugs). If it fits between the cylinder at any single reachable location, it's likely a 360/390 block, if you cannot find even a single location that the drill bit fits, it may be a 361/391/428 block.

This info is just for starters. Further isolation of the block can be done by inspecting the cranksaddle webbing and looking for text on the floor of the water jacket inside the center core plugs or opposite the long coolant slot in the deck.

Good luck.

Shoe.

If the brake shoe is dragging a little on one side then the results are what you described with an open rear end. One may turn faster than the other at first until they even out even with no brake drag.
With the car in park and the rear wheels off of the ground (engine off) spin one tire by hand. If you have an open rear then the opposite tire will turn the opposite direction. With a posi/limited slip rear end neither side will turn performing this same test unless you put the tranny in nuetral and then they will turn the same direction when you turn one by hand. These test are based on good brakes (no dragging brake shoes)

On a Fairlane/Mustang the bracket bolts on to the back of the passenger side head.

n/m

If the crank came out to the edge of the balancer, the washer on the bolt would bottom against the crank snout leaving the balancer loose. I am not sure how deep the crank sets back in because I have always just torqued the bolt to the proper specs pulling it in till it bottoms.