Skip Navigation Links.
 |  nitrous ? -- nick, 08/24/2001
can a 65 352 handle a mild nos foger kit like a 100 horse boost or will it blow up per say |
|  | RE: nitrous ? -- RC Moser, 08/25/2001
Depends on the condition of the engine. IF it's wore out then no. If you know it good and tight then I would think a mild dose would be good for it. A professor at UTI told me he done over 40 pulls on a newer GT and tore the engine down and could not find any wear or stress cracks. Now, that's no garrentee that Nitrous is bullit proof, their are too many factors like tune-up, knowledge, condition of the engine, and throw in bad luck to be bullit-proof. Only you can deside if your equipment can take heat and hold up. |
| | | RE: nitrous ? -- Lou, 08/25/2001
If you sell engines or engine parts, nitrous is a great thing to pay for your kids collage. If you are a car owner is it Russian Roulette. |
| | |  | Its not bad -- Ross, 08/25/2001
Nitrous is like any other mod, matter of fact, if it isnt pinging and you dont over rev the motor, 100 shot wont hurt it.
We hammered a 351W in a Jeep CJ 5 through 2 seasons of mud racing with a 100 horse kit, and it was a stock rebuild with orig pistons. Then we pulled it out because the shop truck needed a motor in a hurry, and it ran until the truck wasnt worth welding up again 3 yrs later.
1. Watch the tach, it doesnt raise redline
2. If it pings, richen the mixture or pull some timing out, but ping=death with nitrous
3. Make sure your fuel system can keep up..ie HV pump or electric, if it runs out of gas, it'll blow up..period
4. Have a blast, its a lot of fun |
 | body parts or not ?? -- nick, 08/24/2001
can someone tell me ware i can find N O S doors and fenders for a 65 galaxie |
|  | Well, you might try our 'Classifieds'. [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/25/2001
n/m |
| h p -- nick, 08/24/2001
what was the factory horse power on a 65 352 with a 4 barrel its in a 65 galaxie and what would be the easiest way to convert to electronic ignition |
| | RE: Aout a quarter of thousand -- RC Moser, 08/25/2001
Book says 250@4400 with a compression ratio of 9.3. |
| | Pertronix ....[ ] -- Highspeed, 08/25/2001
They get my vote for an easy conversion to electronic ignition. |
| | | Agree!! RE: Pertronix ....[ ] -- StyleTONE58, 08/25/2001
Pertronix is easy. It's reliable. It's 59.95 from www.mustang-unl.com. There is a guy selling them on Ebay for 58. I have had three of them, the oldest is 8+ years in my Cougar with 302. Absolutly NO problems. Had one in the '58 for a while, and it had no problem spinning to 6500 RPM, so theregular ones are very good, depending on the condition of yer dizz, 'natch. |
| | | | RE: Agree!! RE: Pertronix ....[ ] -- Mel Clark, 08/25/2001
I replaced my OEM dual point system with a similar system about 5 years ago. Very likely one of the best changes I've done. Easy to install, zero maintenance, and totally stable at any rpm. Before I had to check the lobes on the cam for surface rust or the point's rubbing blocks would rapidly wear out and the increased dwell would cause very poor performance. Since the installation there have been no ignition headaches at all. This is possibly the best move you can do for ignition performance on a points equipped car. |
| 428 ? -- Chariton, 08/24/2001
I am considering purchasing a 1969 Mustang that the guy says has a 428 in it. The only number I see is K601A6. Does this tell you guys anything?
Thanks, |
| 73 stang 390 swap -- Shawn Royden, 08/23/2001
Hi, I currently have a 73 stang convertible with a 351C 4v, 4speed. I also have a 390 sitting in my garage from an aborted resto. I would like to build up the 390 while still running the car then swap when the motor is ready. First is it worth it and is any additional bracing needed to do this swap. I read about a 69 swap on this site and alot of things needed to change, will it be the same in my case. Any info will be appreciated
Thanks
Shawn |
| | RE: 73 stang 390 swap -- Paul M, 08/23/2001
I'm not sure about the early `70's `stangs, as to how much room you have in your engine compartment, and to how the suspension and such is.
I am pretty sure the 390 is heavier than a 351 C though, so that might be a consideration.
Also, is the 351C original for the convert? Might want to leave it that way, as you can get plenty
of power out of them, if they're built right.
My .02 worth.
|
| | | RE: 73 stang 390 swap -- Mel Clark, 08/23/2001
Paul's right on about the value of having the original engine in your car and that plenty of power can be had from the 351.
As for the 390 in your car, you may have some problems as the crossmember under the engine is different and I don't know about the mounts. As for bracing, I think Ford did enough in the '71 to'73 cars to handle the weight and the stress. and as for weight, you can look that up in the engine forum elsewhere on this site. I don't think you will have a problem if the engines are within 100 pounds of each other. |
| | RE: 73 stang 390 swap -- Ross, 08/23/2001
I wouldnt put an FE in that car, and I am very pro-FE. The 69 and 70's had a long list of to-do's, but that was in a car that came with an FE. Your style Mustang was built with 385 series (429/460) stock from the factory, the FE would be a pain to install. Personally, I think with a modern cam grind and some head work that 351 will run with any 390 if not destroy one, but if you HAD to have a big block, that car is begging for a 460 or even a crate 514/600 hp for 6 grand from Ford!
That way its a bolt in with factory parts, you can buy headers for a 429/460 71-73, but not for a 390 powered one. Just my 2 cents, but remember the Boss 351, a 351C, was quicker off the showroom floor than the 428's, the Boss 9, and the Boss 302. That old 'C is a good motor and its in it already |
| | | RE: 73 stang 390 swap reason -- Shawn Royden, 08/24/2001
Thanks guys, You are all correct a 351 can produce plenty of power. A set of 2v aussie heads will give me gobs of low end and camming it up a bit with manifold and 650 double pmp would rock. But this would leave the bottom end untouched. The reason I wanted to do the 390 was that I have one in my garage and I could build it while still driving the car and enjoying it. But I think I will just bite the bullet and yoke the motor and do the whole thing hopefully I will get done before late spring and won't be hatin life during drop top season.
Thanks for the help
Shawn |
| | | | I, pehaps alone, understood the reson. -- Styleline58, 08/24/2001
Man, folks like to spend your money don't they? I am sure that if you had the budget to buy a 460, you would not be thinking of the 390, right?
The '71-73 chassis was not that much different from the years before. FE motor mounts from 1969/70 should fit. The headers for the Mustangs are the same for all the early years AS WELL AS the big full-framed Torinos so 1969/70 FE headers should fit fine, if you want to run headers. Manifolds? No problem. FPP Try-ys, no problem. You will need an FE-specific bell housing or trans, depending on the trans you now have. That's it.
You should be able to make the swap with no mods or cutting, which makes it reversable and will not hurt the value as long as you keep the original parts. It will allow you to enjoy the car while you build the other engine the way you want to at a comfortable pace. It is important to seek out the advice of someone WHO HAS ACTUALLY DONE THE SWAP. Keep that thought in mid when seeking advice. Go to www.fordfe.com. They will be able to get to the details. The temporary 390 swap is a good idea. But even if you wanted to drop in a 390 or 428 permanently, it's cool. If the car is rare because of options or low production, just don't do anything invasive and keep the old parts.
|
| matching #'s? -- mustangtwins, 08/23/2001
I am running a '71 390 in a 67' mustang fastback. I recently pick up a '65 390 to rebuild or whatever. But a buddy of mine tells me that if I were to rebuild it, and then put it in the 'stang, then I would have a matching #'s car. He says this is so because the motor could have sat on a shelf for a year. Is this true? any thoughts? |
| | RE: matching #'s? -- gerry, 08/23/2001
no.
 |
| | In my opinion, that would've been next to impossible. [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/23/2001
n/m |
| | Probably not -- Orin, 08/23/2001
As explained to me, "matching numbers" means all casting and stamped/tag dates have to precede the auto's assembly date by not more than 45 days. That is, a car assembled on Sept 2, 1966 ("6J2") can have parts with casting/stamping/tag dates as early as mid-July 1966, but ABSOLUTLEY nothing after Sept 1, 1966 ("6J1").
Some people shorten the matching numbers time window to 30 days, rather than 45 days. I'm sure one of the Mustang Club of America judges/officials on this forum can provide more exact information. |
| | | Didn't he say a "65" engine in a "67" car? [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/23/2001
n/m |
| | | RE: Probably not -- Bill Brady, 08/24/2001
Orin: I think you'll find that matching numbers to most people means the actual drivetrain (or at least the original engine) the car was originally produced with. That's how I learned it and what it's always meant to me and most of the people I've had a reason to speak about it with over the years. Most GM, Mopar and a number of Fords, especially with high performance engines, had the VIN (or at least a good portion of it ) stamped onto the engine block and transmission. When the serial number on the engine and trans are the same as the car's VIN, "the numbers match". It's my understanding that as the 60's rolled on into the '70's, this became more commonplace, mostly due to federal regulations requiring the serial number to be on many components for aid in tracking stolen cars and parts. My '71 Torino, for example, with 351C-4V and C6 had a partial VIN (year, plant and last six digits of serial number) stamped on the back of the driver's side engine block and on a pad on top of the trans which I discovered when they were pulled to rebuild, so I felt I was fortunate to discover it was a "numbers matcing car". Interestingly, a lot of the so-called experts at these musclecar magazines back in the '80's swore Ford never stamped the blocks with the VIN except for ultra high performance engines like in the Boss cars, 289 hipo, etc, yet I've found the numbers on just about all the cars I've had or parted out, including garden variety 302-2V's from '70-71 (Mr. F, a comment or two here on these guys?). You can't touch a new car without finding the VIN somewhere. I believe that what you refer to with the casting dates not predating the production date by 45 days means just that, a correct date coded engine and components that someone has put together because the original engine may have been removed or grenaded over the years. This is often what judged shows use as a guide and the judging standards aren't necessarily concerned with whether it is in fact the original engine, so long as it is date and appearance correct. Also, many times you'll see someone refer to an engine as having a correct replacement block. That can often mean the original block was replaced by a dealer under warranty or otherwise, or the owner has tracked down the right year over the counter block to put the remaining original components (or ones they've tracked down) onto. However, those cars, like the date correct cars, will never be considered true "matching numbers". Hope this helps. |
| Milling heads -- T1M, 08/23/2001
how much can you mill 390 heads before you run into problems? I may have to mill mine again and I want to makes sure I don't have any problems
I hate problems... |
| hey guys what about gears and stall speed -- nick, 08/22/2001
my 65 is a heavy car i know but the former owner put 410s in it and he gave me a 2500 stall converter . should i use them will they make the car faster . im just lookin for nice mid range power and or course tire burnin power . i have 2 sets or after market heavy duty springs to make it handle and also an adapted sway bar setup off of an old police car should i put this stuff in . i want the car to handle as well as to be quick |
| | RE: hey guys what about gears and stall speed -- Mel Clark, 08/22/2001
Get a set of "Traction Masters" so you don't break a lot of parts due to wheel hop. Lakewood slapper bars work fine but, they just don't have that "Retro" look.
The converter will be a good addition based on what you said you want. Install it with an transmission oil cooler and have fun! |
| | RE: hey guys what about gears and stall speed -- gerry, 08/23/2001
I depends on how your engine is built, Nick. If the engine is, for the most part, stock then the converter will not do you very much good, but it won't really hurt much either (other than higher trans temp and lower gas mileage). You didn't say to what degree your engine is modified -if at all, so it's hard to say yes or no.
The purpose of using a higher stall speed converter is to launch the car closer to the engine's torque peak. While you may think this is O.K. for your engine since, if it is stock, your torque peak may be fairly close to the converter's stall-rpm, that's not the whole picture. Engines that have a fairly stout cam make lots of power on top, but very little torque at low rpm. An engine with modest timing events makes more than enough torque down low and doesn't need the or can't proportionatly use the advantage of a higher stall converter.
Now, your 4.10 gears and a looser converter will not help much in your quest for a mid-range cruiser. Sure you'll be able to (or at least have a better chance of )burning rubber, but you'll also be turning a lot of rpm at cruise speed. Just something to consider. |
| styleline58 its got a 4 barrel on it factory(nick) -- nick, 08/22/2001
i dont know what heads it has but it came with a 4 barrel intake. i dont know what heads are good or what numbers to look for . what was the compression ratio on the 65 352? id like to have at least 10 to 1 . i dont mind spendin a few bucks on the engine build cus the car is in perfect shape . im a body man by trade so ill do most everything my self . id like to find some N.O.S doors to put my car but i cant find anything at all for these cars . im a chevy fan at heart i have a 69 ss 454 and a 67 camaro pro street . but i allways liked the old gallaxies they sort of resemble a old gto but better lines . i dont knowthat much about old fords especialy fe blocks . id like some help with the heads id . and stuff like that . thanks for the help you guys .. |
| Piston question -- Eric, 08/22/2001
I hav a 65 390 that i'm beginning to rebuild. I'm working on getting all the parts together before I start, to save the budget. My question is that the engine I'm starting with has dished pistons. Is it worth my while to invest in flat tops or are they going to be good as is. I'm looking for a pretty quick car, and I'm going with the performer RPM cam and intake, Holley 750, and FPA Headers for sure. I just can't seem to come to a decision on pistons. What is the difference in compression, fuel requirements, etc. I don't want to have to run airplane fuel in it, but I also don't want to put it together and regret it. Thanks for any opinions.
Eric |
| | RE: Piston -- Mel Clark, 08/22/2001
You will need to cc the heads and if all of the pistons are the same deck heigth you can figure your compression by cc.ing only 1 cylinder, add for the space of a compressed head gasket and compute the mechanical ratio. To use the stock dished pistons you will have to mill a good bit from the heads to get to 10.5 to 1 compression which is about the max for pump gas. If your engine was one of the high compression (flat top pistons) 2V engines you could get away with a clean-up mill. Cast pistons will work well in an engine that does not go over 6000 rpm, after that safety requires forged pistons, even though many get away with even higher rpms with the cast pistons. |
|