These are the old FoMoCo Obsolete Forums and are being hosted by JCOConsulting.com. While you're here, check out my articles or have a look around at some of the Ford Stuff we have for sale. You might find something you can't live without.

Skip Navigation Links.
 Please vote for 'FORD' performance. Thanks! -- FE, 11/01/2000
There is a poll being conducted on the
http://www.motortrend.com
site.

One of the 'Online Polls' (see left frame) questions is:

What is the ultimate performance car?

Motortrend, limits your choice to 3:
Viper, Vette, or Mustang R.

I'm asking for your vote.
I'm asking you to vote for the Mustang R.

I feel this poll is unscientific in the extreme. It unfairly limits its choices so that any reasonable person would select the Viper. But that's not how the question reads. I think the correct answer to the question asked is the mid-60's Cobra or 427 GT40.
Since Motortrend wants DC (a major advertiser) to win, they didn't offer the Cobra as a choice. Despite the fact that you can still buy 'new' Cobras and replicas that can equal and exceed the original's performance. Nothing ever sold to the general public in its price range could match the Cobra's performance. I think we should all get together and make sure the 'FORD' contribution to the annals of 'ultimate performance' is acknowledged.

Please vote for the Mustang in the poll. The poll is set up such that you can vote once a day.

I have gotten other sites involved in this vote. We have raised the Mustang's percentage of vote received to almost 25% from 17% two weeks ago.

Please vote.

Thank you.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3156&Reply=3156><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Oil Blow-By</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim Markley, <i>11/01/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 427 sideoiler in a Cobra replica and it blows oil out the breather and makes a terrible mess..... any ideas on how to control this??? I have heard that this is an inherent problem with this engine... I guess crankcase pressure is high and therefore the blow-by is normal. Any help would be appreciated.<br><br>Thanks </blockquote> Oil Blow-By -- Tim Markley, 11/01/2000
I have a 427 sideoiler in a Cobra replica and it blows oil out the breather and makes a terrible mess..... any ideas on how to control this??? I have heard that this is an inherent problem with this engine... I guess crankcase pressure is high and therefore the blow-by is normal. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3157&Reply=3156><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Oil Blow-By</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gerry, <i>11/01/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Blowing oil out the breather isn't normal, Tim.  It means that you have too much oil in the valve cover (if you have valve cover breathers), or your breather isn't baffled, or that you have poor ring seal.<br><br>Obviously, you want to rule out the simple stuff first, so check for excessive oil in the top of the engine and that your breathers are baffled.<br><br>If that looks up to snuff, then I suggest you have a leak-down test done on the cylinders.  This is different from a compression test as it gives you a precise indication of how well your compression rings are sealing the cylinder.<br><br>I'm assuming you are using a PCV, and that the system is performing properly.  If not, then some oil blowby would be expected under higher rpm running.  Any engine will mist under these conditions.  You can eliminate this just about entirely by running a completly closed system (PCV and air cleaner pick-up).  Of course, the engine has to be otherwise in good condition. </blockquote> RE: Oil Blow-By -- gerry, 11/01/2000
Blowing oil out the breather isn't normal, Tim. It means that you have too much oil in the valve cover (if you have valve cover breathers), or your breather isn't baffled, or that you have poor ring seal.

Obviously, you want to rule out the simple stuff first, so check for excessive oil in the top of the engine and that your breathers are baffled.

If that looks up to snuff, then I suggest you have a leak-down test done on the cylinders. This is different from a compression test as it gives you a precise indication of how well your compression rings are sealing the cylinder.

I'm assuming you are using a PCV, and that the system is performing properly. If not, then some oil blowby would be expected under higher rpm running. Any engine will mist under these conditions. You can eliminate this just about entirely by running a completly closed system (PCV and air cleaner pick-up). Of course, the engine has to be otherwise in good condition.
 RE: Oil Blow-By -- John, 11/03/2000
I have the same problem with my 428 in my ERA Cobra. My breather is out the back of the intake manifold. I got some relief from this problem by teeing two hoses from the both valve cover caps to a PCV valve. The goop that comes out however is a yellow/gray goop that is primarily oil additives and water. Now think of that...water...not from the cooling system, but from condensation mostly and the combustion processs to some extent. Condensation you ask?...well it is a car you don't drive every day, or very far. So this is what happens. You drive it fro a bit...not long enough for the PCV system to suck all the moisture into the intake and have it burnt...then you park it in a concret garage. As the engine cools down...the air inside contracts and draws cool DAMP air inside from the garage. Next time you start her up...the water mixes with the churning oil, and hangs up with the additives. Even a brand new engine has blow-by,...so when the blow-by exceeds what the pcv system can suck up...it comes out the breather. Yup...I got it too...and can't seem to resolve it 100%...Oh well...the car's fun to drive anyway...Oh, and did you notice the problem is worse just after you change the oil...it's all those additives coming out.

Best of luck

john
 RE: Oil Blow-By -- RC Moser, 11/05/2000
I'd do the leak down test as gerry suggested. Usually alot of blow by is caused by the vents plugged or a compression ring is weak and letting compression by the ring or rings and pressurization the oil pan area forcing the oil to be air born. A leak down test along with a compression test will illumate the rings. I'd also make sure it's breathing (venting) properly. If I had one it would problem have the same problem cause I couldn't keep My FOOT out of it. Another sign is alot of moisture forming when the air temperture is cooler or alot of humidity. This forms due to the pressurization of the lower end. If you run the car in colder weather I change the oil more often. Just my opinion and experience up north with a high mileage FE. RC
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3153&Reply=3153><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>C3AE cylinder head what FE engine does it belong t</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>steve angelo, <i>10/31/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 1966 thunderbird with a 390. while rebuilding the 390 i ordered a set of rebuilt heads. 1 is a C8AE-H head with a 2" intake port the other is a C3AE head with a 21/2" intake port. I have installed a edelbrock cam and manifold and if the C3AE is a better head i want to try and find one but i need to know what it belongs to. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks. steve. </blockquote> C3AE cylinder head what FE engine does it belong t -- steve angelo, 10/31/2000
I have a 1966 thunderbird with a 390. while rebuilding the 390 i ordered a set of rebuilt heads. 1 is a C8AE-H head with a 2" intake port the other is a C3AE head with a 21/2" intake port. I have installed a edelbrock cam and manifold and if the C3AE is a better head i want to try and find one but i need to know what it belongs to. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks. steve.
 "C3AE-" prefix, but which suffix letter(s)? [n/m] -- Mr Fomoco, 11/01/2000
n/m
 Its a good one; "C3AE-C" = late '63 406 [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/01/2000
n/m
 C3AE-D is lowrise 427 nm -- kevin t, 11/16/2000
nm
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3149&Reply=3149><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>New intake for 352</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Paul, <i>10/30/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I am installing an Edelbrock intake manifold on my 352 and the new intake does not have the engine oil filler tube.  Is it okay to add oil via the valve covers and omit the oil filler tube altogether? </blockquote> New intake for 352 -- Paul, 10/30/2000
I am installing an Edelbrock intake manifold on my 352 and the new intake does not have the engine oil filler tube. Is it okay to add oil via the valve covers and omit the oil filler tube altogether?
 Yes [n/m] -- Lou, 10/30/2000
Yes
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3148&Reply=3148><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Electric fans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>T1M, <i>10/30/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>what do you all think of replacing the mechanical fan and fan clutch drive thing with an electric fan? Seems to me it would save some wear on the water pumps bearings. Plus isn't the electric one a bit more efficient in cooling the engine? If you are in favor of fans, which brand do you recommend?<br> Thanks for any help </blockquote> Electric fans -- T1M, 10/30/2000
what do you all think of replacing the mechanical fan and fan clutch drive thing with an electric fan? Seems to me it would save some wear on the water pumps bearings. Plus isn't the electric one a bit more efficient in cooling the engine? If you are in favor of fans, which brand do you recommend?
Thanks for any help
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3152&Reply=3148><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Electric fans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Will, <i>10/31/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I've been looking at that too.  Most electric fan companies do not recommend electric fans for over 400 cid.  They say that you need somewhere around 2800 cfm to keep a big block cool (depends on the engine of course).  Most electric fans only pull around 1500 cfm.  A clutch fan pulls plenty, especially with a shround.<br><br>Now, we've all seen big blown engines with eletric fans, so I know it's gotta work.  I'm planning on running dual 12" or 14" fans in my 67 mustang.  The radiator is a 3-row 24"x16".  The fans I like the most are by Hot Rod Air, although I'm sure any major manufacturer would work fine.  One thing to look for is a thermostat.  Some aftermarket fans don't automatically come on, so you have to wire a thermostat into it.  I think painless wiring has a kit for this.  You can find it at Summit. </blockquote> RE: Electric fans -- Will, 10/31/2000
I've been looking at that too. Most electric fan companies do not recommend electric fans for over 400 cid. They say that you need somewhere around 2800 cfm to keep a big block cool (depends on the engine of course). Most electric fans only pull around 1500 cfm. A clutch fan pulls plenty, especially with a shround.

Now, we've all seen big blown engines with eletric fans, so I know it's gotta work. I'm planning on running dual 12" or 14" fans in my 67 mustang. The radiator is a 3-row 24"x16". The fans I like the most are by Hot Rod Air, although I'm sure any major manufacturer would work fine. One thing to look for is a thermostat. Some aftermarket fans don't automatically come on, so you have to wire a thermostat into it. I think painless wiring has a kit for this. You can find it at Summit.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3154&Reply=3148><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Electric fans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>T1M, <i>10/31/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks for your reply. What is the advantage of using an electric fan though?<br> I went to the Flexalite fan website and they also said they recommend a "direct drive" fan for big blocks. I'd much rather keep it simple and use direct drive.  </blockquote> RE: Electric fans -- T1M, 10/31/2000
Thanks for your reply. What is the advantage of using an electric fan though?
I went to the Flexalite fan website and they also said they recommend a "direct drive" fan for big blocks. I'd much rather keep it simple and use direct drive.
 RE: Electric fans -- Will, 10/31/2000
I want one because my flex fan is too noisy. When I was a teenager, I liked the sound. I guess I'm getting old.

I thought about a clutch fan, but I decided against it. Maybe it's because it's too ugly. I wonder about the weight too (horsepower drain).

I've heard an electric fan is better for stop/go traffic. Supposedly, an engine powered fan doesn't move enough air at slow speeds. I doubt that logic since you don't see cars overheating all the time in stop/go traffic.

You can wire an electric fan to run after the engine stops. The temp in my car soars once I turn it off. An electric fan would at least cool the water in the radiator when I stop.

I doubt a flex or clutch fan does anything to water pump bearings. If it was a big problem we'd have water pumps failing all the time. My 93 Cobra had 110,000 miles on it (when it was stolen). It had a clutch (and later flex) fan. The water pump worked fine.

Now for the kicker. There are a few threads going about FE's throwing freeze plugs. Some theories are coolant pressure and temp. Once I get the electric fan, I'm going to look into an electric water pump. That way, I'll have a constant pressure going through my block. I'll also be able to completely cool my engine when I shut it off. I plan on wiring both the pump and the fan to a thermostat too. Hmmm, I may have to do something to make the heater work. We'll see. That project is a few months away.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3143&Reply=3143><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Correct paint for 66 car 352.</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed Jenkins, <i>10/29/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>What would be the correct Ford Dark blue paint  for my 66 Galaxie. ( Current paint #'ers and brands would be apperciated)   </blockquote> Correct paint for 66 car 352. -- Ed Jenkins, 10/29/2000
What would be the correct Ford Dark blue paint for my 66 Galaxie. ( Current paint #'ers and brands would be apperciated)
 I've posted it here before, Ed - search titles for 'old Ditzler' [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/02/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3139&Reply=3139><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>2U 428 Crank?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed Foral, <i>10/28/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>There is a guy near me who has a crank for sale, who claims that he has a 428PI crank with a 2U stamped on it.  He claimed that a machine shop verified the stroke as being 428.  He claims that the 2U 428 crank was used in a 67 GT500.<br>My first thought is that he is pitifully confused and has a 390 crank.  I am going to look at it first hand on Monday.<br>I was wondering if anyone has any information that such a mythical creature exists.<br><br>Thanks<br>Ed </blockquote> 2U 428 Crank? -- Ed Foral, 10/28/2000
There is a guy near me who has a crank for sale, who claims that he has a 428PI crank with a 2U stamped on it. He claimed that a machine shop verified the stroke as being 428. He claims that the 2U 428 crank was used in a 67 GT500.
My first thought is that he is pitifully confused and has a 390 crank. I am going to look at it first hand on Monday.
I was wondering if anyone has any information that such a mythical creature exists.

Thanks
Ed
 RE: 2U 428 Crank? -- Ross, 10/29/2000
2U is standard 390 cast crank. Maybe offset ground or something, but I doubt it. Bad measurement I'd guess
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3136&Reply=3136><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>ring and pinions</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gordon, <i>10/27/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>i have a ring and pinion i took out of another car a few years ago that seems to have gotten a very little bit of rust on one side of the pinion gear i have used gears even worse than these before but now a fella is telling me they are JUNK that with any rust at all on them they will whine and make noise if installed again the wear pattern is excellent on them also and still can be seen the rust is so minor that a very fine scotch brite pad would clean it up even<br>was i just lucky when i used the others that had been rusty ive installed or is this fella giving me a line of crap <br>i have always been led to beleive if they were set up right with the right tolerences they would be fine who is right here <br>thanks<br>gordon </blockquote> ring and pinions -- gordon, 10/27/2000
i have a ring and pinion i took out of another car a few years ago that seems to have gotten a very little bit of rust on one side of the pinion gear i have used gears even worse than these before but now a fella is telling me they are JUNK that with any rust at all on them they will whine and make noise if installed again the wear pattern is excellent on them also and still can be seen the rust is so minor that a very fine scotch brite pad would clean it up even
was i just lucky when i used the others that had been rusty ive installed or is this fella giving me a line of crap
i have always been led to beleive if they were set up right with the right tolerences they would be fine who is right here
thanks
gordon
 RE: ring and pinions -- Eli, 10/28/2000
Clean it up and use it. As long as there is no deep pitting on the teeth I can not see any problem.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3138&Reply=3136><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: ring and pinions</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gordon, <i>10/28/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>THANKS for the info<br>thats what i thought to i couldnt see where any minor rust should be a problem with these seeing as how they worked perfectly before they were removed from the other carrier<br>thanks again<br>gordon </blockquote> RE: ring and pinions -- gordon, 10/28/2000
THANKS for the info
thats what i thought to i couldnt see where any minor rust should be a problem with these seeing as how they worked perfectly before they were removed from the other carrier
thanks again
gordon
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3142&Reply=3136><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>rack and pinion?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>T1M, <i>10/29/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote> excuse me for not knowing, but are you guys talking about steering assemblies or something in the transmission or something else?<br>  Just curious, thanks </blockquote> rack and pinion? -- T1M, 10/29/2000
excuse me for not knowing, but are you guys talking about steering assemblies or something in the transmission or something else?
Just curious, thanks
 RE: rack and pinion? -- gordon, 10/29/2000
we are talking about the RING and PINION gears in the rearend is what it is
gordon
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3132&Reply=3132><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>shorty headers in a 67 fullsize</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>scott, <i>10/26/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Any forum regulars ever tried to fit any of the ford cast iron headers into the later 65-68 body style?I would like to improve the breathing of my moter but dont want to go to steel tube headers. just curious which if any of the ford pieces will fit and what part numbers would I be looking for? can any one tell what problems they ran into or what didnt fit. car has P/S, A/C, and an auto trans. </blockquote> shorty headers in a 67 fullsize -- scott, 10/26/2000
Any forum regulars ever tried to fit any of the ford cast iron headers into the later 65-68 body style?I would like to improve the breathing of my moter but dont want to go to steel tube headers. just curious which if any of the ford pieces will fit and what part numbers would I be looking for? can any one tell what problems they ran into or what didnt fit. car has P/S, A/C, and an auto trans.
 RE: shorty headers in a 67 fullsize -- Jim Raymond, 10/26/2000
Scott,

The part numbers for the shorties are, left C2AE-9431-G, right C2AE-9431-J. They dump out pretty high, so I don't think there's much problem with the fit. I'm using the long tubes in a truck. Someone else is using the short's in a truck and that got me interested in looking at them. I found a set at the swap meet 6 weeks ago and they look like they'd fit just about anything.
Also, there's suppose to be 3 or 4 different lengths that were made for different app's, I think I've seen 3 of them.
Jim
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3120&Reply=3120><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Gas smell</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Paul, <i>10/24/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a galaxie with a 352 2V.  I smell gas when I drive the car.  Any suggestions? </blockquote> Gas smell -- Paul, 10/24/2000
I have a galaxie with a 352 2V. I smell gas when I drive the car. Any suggestions?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3130&Reply=3120><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Gas smell</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>RC Moser, <i>10/26/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Paul, I first have to ask do you see any puddles or wettness around the carb., fuel lines, and gas tank? I first check out the enging bay( base of carb., lines, and fuel pump), then follow the lines back to the tank. Look for signs of wettness (gas will leave a stain look even after it evaporates). Inspect the rubber hoses looking for dry rot or cracks, Inspect the filler neck boot for dry rot and cracks. Also, look the tank over real good for leaks or cracks. If you still can't find anything, I'd drop the tank and check the rubber hoses that connects at the gauge. O, also check the gas tank cap, it could be leaking when the gas sloches back and forth while you are driving. Hope this helps. RC  </blockquote> RE: Gas smell -- RC Moser, 10/26/2000
Paul, I first have to ask do you see any puddles or wettness around the carb., fuel lines, and gas tank? I first check out the enging bay( base of carb., lines, and fuel pump), then follow the lines back to the tank. Look for signs of wettness (gas will leave a stain look even after it evaporates). Inspect the rubber hoses looking for dry rot or cracks, Inspect the filler neck boot for dry rot and cracks. Also, look the tank over real good for leaks or cracks. If you still can't find anything, I'd drop the tank and check the rubber hoses that connects at the gauge. O, also check the gas tank cap, it could be leaking when the gas sloches back and forth while you are driving. Hope this helps. RC
 RE: Gas smell -- Paul, 10/30/2000
RC Moser Thanks alot for your detailed suggestions, I'll check those out.
Go to the top of this page
Go back one page Back    Next Go forward one page

441 442 443 444 445 446 447 448 449 450 451 452 453 454 455 456 457 458 459 460