Does anyone know for sure if the following Crane cam has any piston to valve clearance issues. I am running stock rod length 428CJ short block with TRW forged 10.5:1 pistons with out of the box Edelbrock aluminum heads, 1.76:1 rockers, .040 compressed thickness head gaskets and the deck has been left alone except for a minor dusting to assure a flat surface and good seal.

Crane Part Number: 349521
This is a hydraulic Roller camshaft with the following specs:

Grind Number: HR-222/332-2S-10

352-428 C.I. V

Valve Setting: Intake .000 Exhaust .000 HOT

Lift: Intake @Cam 332 @Valve 584 All Lifts are based
on zero lash and theoretical rocker arm ratios.
Exhaust @ Cam 345 @Valve 607
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.76

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.004
Lift: Opens Closes ADV Duration
Intake 33.0 BTDC 71.0 ABDC 284.0 °
Exhaust 76.0 BBDC 34.0 ATDC 290.0 °

Recommended RPM range with matching components
Minimum RPM 2500
Maximum RPM 6000
Valve Float 6500

Cam Timing: TAPPET @.050
Lift: Opens Closes Max Lift Duration
Intake 6.0 BTDC 36.0 ABDC 105 222.0 °
Exhaust 49.0 BBDC (1.0) BTDC 115 228.0 °

Any feedback would be appreciated
Thanks,
Greg

All: I lurk here on the board, and have come to highly respect Shoe, Hawkrod, Mr. F, Kevin Marti and others. I appreciated so much how ths board handled recent allegations against a very upstanding man, and therefore I trust your thoughts.
My '66 F-100 is named Sweet Southern Comfort. (No relation to the liquor, as I learned about later!) She spun a rod bearing last week, and I need to rebuild her motor. I would like some advice on the rebuild, because money is tight, but I want to do what is good for the long run.
Here is the situation, and I would really appreciate your thoughts and input.
First, here are my questions; read on down below for the details behind the questions:
1. Which block and rotating assembly should I use for rebuilding, a '66 Galaxie 390, a '69 torino block with C-7AE heads, or a '74 truck mirror 105 390 with D2T heads?
2. Which set of heads should I use?
3. What externals do you all recommend?

Here is what I have now:
'66 352 2V with original block, but with re-worked C8AE car heads (about 30K ago. They will need freshening, due to stripped exhaust bolt holes.) Behind it is a C-6, a Doug Nash overdrive (similar to a Gear Vendors or US Gear overdrive), and a 3.50 9" rear.
Accessories already include power steering and air conditioning.

Here is what I have available to me:
1. A mirror 105 390 block, with D2T heads, out of a '74 or so F-250. It had a cast iron 4 bbl on it originally. (Price: $100)
2. A '66 4bbl 390 out of a '66 Galaxie. (Price: Free)
A '69 4bbl 390 from a torino, with C7AE heads. Cross hatching is still visible. (Price $400)

These are my intentions for using Comfort:
She needs to run on regular gas.
I will use the stock manifolds, with the current dual exhaust on her right now. (I don't like tube headers, and I cannot afford the cast shorties.)
Also, I will use the stock pushrods and rocker arms. I don't see the need for adjustable ones in this application at all.
I intend to rebuild it with a 4bbl aluminum intake, and put a brand new (not rebuilt) 4bbl carb on it to for good mileage, but have the power in the secondaries if needed. Edelbrock has come highly recommended over Holley for this purpose.

I would like to consider fuel injection, but I think that multipoint injection is beyond my price range right now. If the cost of gas stays pretty much the same, I don't know if a system such as the Holley Proinjection (sp?) unit will pay for itself soon enough. I don't know if it will be worth the savings.

I intend her primarily for street use, occasional towing of medium level things, and no racing or the like.
I do not intend to haul heavy things except rarely; I keep a camper shell on it to preserve the bed.
The motor rebuild must be kept economical, but I don't want to scrimp so that I spend more in the long run.

I've been following the other FE forums about FE rebuilds, and they have some great ideas, but most of them seem to get a little carried away spending other people's money!

This list is the consensus I have pulled from other forums; I would like to hear from you all about this.
KB-Silvolite 1131 cast pistons, with the 1.76" compression height.
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Edelbrock 600 cfm carb
OR, the Holley Proinjection setup
Crane 343941 cam (with new lifters, of course)

Thanks for your thoughts.
banjopicker66 at hotmail dot com.

I was driving my project 68 Mustang GT 390 the other day and the alternator light came on out of nowhere. I tested the system to the best of my ability and determined that it was not charging.

My tech suggested a new alternator, so a quick trip to NAPA and a acquired one. As usual with electrical problems, the thing is never the thing. He then suggested a new regulator which I purchased and he installed.

Now the light is still on, but very dim, not the bright light it was when it came on. It is the same dimness whether the car is running or the key in just the "on" position.

The battery is still not charging.

Any help or suggestions with this problem would be greatly appreciated.

Dale

ok guys and gals I got it home it's a 390 and it's got a $3500 budget. I need mid range power for my 72 mustang grande. All ideas will be helpfull to me as I have not built an FE before.
I am a mech working on heavy equip and underground boring equip so I have some machining in the shop.
I also picked up a 2xbbbl open plenum intake and carbs (maybe use maybe sell who knows).
I also aquired a pair of 460 bbf and trans for them. I also have access to some exotic parts for fe engines and other stuff as well. 500 hp should be enough. So how do I get there with no nos and an auto trans? You guys know the parts and tweaks for these.THIS WILL NOT BE A STOCK PROJECT MUSTANG...!!
All help is thanked for in advance.
CableDave

I just traded an old Edelbrock Torker/Streetmaster type intake for this 8V intake. I've been wanting one for my 67 Fairlane project for a while. I know this is a low rise version as far as the carb heights are concerned, but is this for the low or medium riser heads? What applications would have used this intake originally? I'm wanting the nostalgic look of the 427 dual four setup and good street performance and driveability. Opinions on this intake? Thanks!

Need to now if I am about to waste a grand on heads or if I should just get the iron ones ported and polished. I am looking to push 450 horse at least. One reason I want the Eds is weight. Would like HP and torque, pros and cons if any. Thanks

Okay so im a little new here and not the most car savy person in the world, but for the first time in a few months i got my 1965 Mercury Montclair to roar, its got a 390 with a 2 barrle carb all factory, anyway to the point, i want power

Exhaust - how big is to big 3'' pipe all the way back ?

Intake - Edlebrock prefomer RPM of FE ?

Carb - 650sih ?

supercharger ? is there even one avalable ?

also im looking to change out my c3 automatic with a four speed anything i need to know ?

im really looking to make power in the lower RPMs, i know the car whieghs 3 tons but hell i want something to be proud of that makes a lot of noise

here goes got a new fe 390 4bbl block id is new to me C5AE A Intake is C5SE943oc? last 2 digi hard to make outand it has very wimpy looking exhaust manifolds with one centered on the side of the block. My buddys and I think it came out of a 65 ford truck. In any case for 4 bills I think I got a good deal for central MI. My question is how far can I stroke and bore before I have to sleeve? Also picked up a pair of 460"s with trans (both) to sell more on those later

i have a 66 fairlane gta 390, want to put new headers on and want 2in. but am concerned about road clearance. seen some that really hang pretty low.the hookers (15/8in.) on there now ain;t to bad but 2front left side go under crossmember and are really close to the oil filter. any input would help, i enjoy this forum but just read mostly

In reference to my 65 T-bird. the motor and valve covers and air filter are Ford blue. What I've read says should be black w/ gold. Is this an indication that it's not the original motor? Casting numbers on the motor read C9AE 9425-B Can someone with more knowledge help me with a translation?

[Edited for clarity by Admin.]