63 thru 66 t'bird only ..11 X 2 1/2 New ones are still around.. 66bucks at autozone

Going to need some heat. Now that I said that. I knew a old timer that had a junkyard that would loosen up rust with water. He would spray it on a rotor or drum, wait 15 minutes and pop it it with a hammer. I tried with a pulley and it worked..I guess water is the thinest liquid . Lots of luck

trans fluid is very thin and if that fails use ice on the axle flange and heat on the drum. dry ice works best but is very rough to work with as it will STICK TO YOU.

Thanks Dave the drum finally gave in and quit

looks exactly like by 69 straight no second bend

zbar, clutch rod, spring etc in second auction?
Thanks Again.
Jack

stock rods with arp bolts are a great idea, your bild sounds decent.if your going to race it, i,d use a deaper pan windage tray a melling hv pump, not the hp pump. the hv only,drill and tap all the oil gallery plug holes and install allen plugs. i hate the stock pushin tipe if ever one comes out youd wish you instaled allen plugs,i also like to use the older tipe rocker arm tin with the oil shouts that chanels alot of the oil back past the pushrods.

http://www.jcoconsulting.com/forumfe/reply.aspx?ID=932&Reply=904

n/m

As far as blocks go, all 390s are created equal. There is no "S" code, interceptor, or Hipo block that is any different than what went into a same year Galaxy station wagon with a 2bbl. There are some 390 blocks that had triangulation in the main web skirt bulkheads but there's no rhyme or reason as to when or where you may find these blocks, though it doesn't make a big difference whether you do or don't. The only thing to look out for is the motor mount difference between '64 and earlier and the '65 and later blocks.

391 Truck blocks are slightly different but not in any significant sense. And just so you understand, a 390 out of a truck is not a 391 truck block. There are some differences (like the distributor pilot diameter and the possibility of thicker cylinder wall material allowing for the potential for an .080" 428-sized overbore) in real heavy duty truck blocks but, again, nothing to write home about.

Same story on the 390 heads. The only difference between a '67 GT "S" code head and the '67 Galaxy wagon 2bbl head is the valve springs. They are otherwise absolutely identical. Some 390 heads are slightly (read that as very slightly) better than others but they are still pretty much the same as far as airflow and porting potential. If you post the casting numbers, just about anyone here can provide deeper insight. Or once you have the numbers, do a search on this site to find out all you will ever need to know about these particular FE heads.

So, he may be absolutely correct in the way he's pitching his merchandise. But his parts are no different than the non-descript Galaxy wagon parts. Makes them cost more, but they are identical.

the only biggie on a 69 mach1 with a 390 i,d be conserned about is the exaust manifolds.you can find headers to fit any head but to remain stock the horizontel bolt pateran exaust manifolds are getting hard to find.that fit the unibody fords,wen i chery pick blocks i prefor the webed blocks but normily any block will do i like the pre 65 heads but thear not cast for the horizontel exaust manifolds,that are neaded for unibody fords unles you use headers.try listing some numbers thears a lot of fe guys on this web site that will try to help you.

The C7AE rods are originals. The crank should be marked 2U. Sounds like someone installed an earlier 390 crank during a rebuild and substituted one earlier 390 rod.

All these parts are compatible with your motor. None is better or worse than original equipment. I would find another C7 rod just so all eight would match though just because that's the way I am.

Royce

The best solution I've found is using the generic holley kit to build your own dpi unit. The TBI units aren't bad, but if you are going to spend the cash why not go the extra and get a set up that will really make a difference.

This is a great article to start with.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/5228/

A budy of mine and myself have been thinking about making a fex holley commander set ups using edelbrock rpm intake manifolds and selling them over the net. We each run one on our mustangs. There are some places on the net that will make them for you but they want from $1500 to $3500 plus you suply the intake manifold and certain other parts. Total cost ends up being around $5k. Kind of spendy.

Good luck
Charlie

http://force-efi.com/machefi.htm

$3250 complete, you buy intake, This isn't a bad price compared to some.

bill, i work at a local speed shop here in san jose ca, and my boss has successly installed mpfi onto most engines. im sure he could convert a manifold for you. if you're in the bay area of calif. im sure you already know where we are.

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