No one makes aluminum main caps for any engine -at least not one that runs. It's iron or steel. ProGram Engineering makes retrofit caps.

. . . happen to all of the old races cars? I see where some got saved and eventually restored, but are there barns out there hiding these relics or did they end up in the crusher after their useful life span?
And another thing, why did the stockers get new cars every couple of years? It seem to me if the car you have is a winner than why change things, regardless of what it looks like.

That was the point of my post. It has a FE that I built with help off of this forum.

Thanks, now I have a reason to watch it....in reruns. I'm not sure why I'd go out of my way to watch a movie about a driver who had little regard for other competetor's lives. I still don't get all of those folks who look at him as a hero? I guess Latrell Sprewell is a hero as well? Dale Sr. was a great racer just not a great competetor.

Carb spacers, in my opinion, are worth the $60 bucks. They do, indeed, reduce incoming fuel temps, fuel/air mixture temps, & provide the fuel/air mixture more time to atomize. I experienced an instance where the spacer wuz required cuz the throttle lever on my Holley contacted the intake through the range of motion. Phenolic spacers supposedly insulate from heat better than the aluminum, but are a bit more expensive (+$10 or $20). U can get them anywhere from 1/2" to 3" that I've seen, watch Ure hood clearance! & make sure the bores match (duh, bet U knew that) I've gotta 1" phenolic from Holley on my '73 F100 w/390. It rocks, go get one.

I didn't see any notes. What is the C8AX....? I'm lookng to stay w/a hot stock cam.

n/m

C8ax-d a cam that ford had made by an outside supplier,the x means that,it has a 330 duration,600 liftchecking in at13 btc,at. 100 lift,the new cams of today are much better and less agressive in the vavle train,not worh 200 bucks,may be 50 to 100,not any more.

Isn't the "GT" and Cobra Jet cam the same cam?

I am reasonably sure Crane offered a Blueprint version of this one. It seems to have vanished with the website revamp. It was listed as a 275 HP 390 cam.

I've heard that Melling has a Cobra Jet copy.

You might try calling them and seeing if they can do it.

In addition, Lunati has a sort of updated version, and the Crane 343801 is sometimes referred to as a CJ cam on steroids.

did you check the bearing nut, if it's drum brakes and they removed the drum they may of not tightened it enough.

If all of the ball joints and tie rods are tight, and it is aligned properly, check the power steering valve. I had one go bad and it caused a real bad shimmey.

n/m

The fact that the case is welded makes it valueless for a restoration. The only way it would be usefull is if you gutted it and installed it in a new case. There is no way to repair a case good enough for a correct restoration which is what gives that trans its potential value.
Hawkrod

what are the crank numbers? and exact bore size? and rod numbers?

Are you running solid rocker arm assembly or adjustables .

A friend of mine had this probelm, and it turned out to be a wrist pin.

take the rocker asemblies off and grab the valve springs and check the gides for play if one is supected of loosenes you can try the rope trick and remove the spring and check it closer, the rope trick is take the spark plug out, find i pice of soft cotton rope fead it into the cilinder,.leave some hanging out, then turn the crank untill the rope compresses and holds the valves closed, use a on the head valve spring compresser, remove the spring and check the gide closer, if your gide makes alot of noise it should be eazy to find,,if you nead to get the heads rebilt make shure thay have the gides not hanging out in the ports if left exposed and not trimed in the exaust port it will get hot and gald with the valve. and runin itself, very quickly.and have a hardend sead instaled for the exaust valve. thease are a coupel of things i try for trubbel shooting gides.

check your wrist pins I had an engine let loose after what I thought was a valve noise and went racing. OOPS!

I dunno if it matters, but ignition consists of new OE vac-advance points style distributor w/2nd gen "Ignitor" point-electronic conversion fed to complete Accel 300+ system, plugs gapped to 0.050", timing & idle mix screws set 2 about as smooth an idle I'd expect from 268 cam, use plus grade pump gas, Holley fuel pump, pulley fan replaced w/electric. Ughhh, I'm outta breath. Hope it helps.

I can't tell U exactly wut my compression is, but I've got sum info that may help. Also, if this info can give an idea of where the compression is, please post for me. Recon Engines (remanufacturer of my motor) does nuthing more than true the heads. The heads are C8AEH found in trucks. The pistons are flat-tops w/valve reliefs. A "compression test" on my motor is reading on 100 psi +/- 2 psi on all cylinders.

If you're referring to a chassis dyno, those power and torque numbers don't sound bad at all for what you're indicating. I think you're too hung up on an arbitrary number. How the truck feels to the throttle in the seat of your pants is a more important issue. And a CC 268 is a fairly mild cam in a 390. It's made for more low rpm grunt. And a 750 CFM 3310 Holley isn't too big for a 390. About the only thing you'd notice by going to a 600 CFM carb is that the boosters are a bit more sensitive to tip in but you won't make more horsepower by going smaller (probably a bit less, if anything).

I seriously doubt that your true compression pressure is 100psi unless your cam is way out of whack or you're hanging valves. I think your test method is flawed (open throttle, hot engine, all plugs out, sufficient cranking rpm) otherwise your engine probably wouldn't even start.

High 15's at about 92 mph = 275 hp, I would say with your combo you are in the ball park. 100 psi compression I doubt is correct.

Hey folks! I broke down & dug out the 'Ol Holley 600 I had in the closet, & I've discovered much better results. Seems it's jetted and cal'ed better 4 my setup and yeilded instant gains in mpg, smoother cold starts & warmups, response, & top end. Jetting seems about right with light tan spark plug readings. When installing the 600 I smacked myself in the back of the head when I realized my vac adv. line had been connected 2 the full vac out of the carb the whole time, DUH! We'll pretend I didn't do that...The compression test, however, seemed sumwut comparable 2 my previous methods. I ended up getting readings of 105 +or- 5psi. Engine @ op temp, all plugs removed, & butterflies fully opened. All cylinders are quite close 2 each other, just seems like a low comp motor guys. Keep in mind it's a new reman from Recon (shouldn't be any defects), the common 8:1 truck heads it came with and the flat-top pistons; who knows wut head gasket they used or that they didn't need 2 true the heads. I elected 2 downgrade to 87 octane, and she maintained the same power, but also gave a slight gain of mpg. Don't see any reason 2 close gap on plugs since there's no miss or fouling, especially w/80,000 volts going 2 them. More input welcome.

i,s a 1963 352 or 390

with the heads and in take i,d ask $150. for a bilder.