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 |  Con rod weight -- David, 10/27/2004
Ford literature shows the weight of most common FE rods to be 762-774 grams. Does this weight include the bushing in the small end of the rod? |
|  | Can't find a specific citation, but I believe that's so. [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/28/2004
n/m |
 | '64 390 Genarator charging problem -- GaryXL, 10/27/2004
First off, Thanks to those responsible for this forum, I've learned much in the last week. Never realized the Mustang FE following before. Now, I'm hoping some of the old hands can point me in the right direction.
My '64 Galaxie XL conv. w/390 won't charge. It worked fine when I put it in storage (dad's barn) in '87. I drove it cross country, NC to Ore prior to parking it (good memories of a fun trip-22, single, and driving a ragtop cross country).
I remember having to polarize the genarator when I installed it. Could it have lost the polarization again? If so what is the correct procedure to polarize it? I'm a decent Mech, but haven't messed with genarators much in the last 15 years (and apparently neither have many of the Pac N.W. auto electric shops).
All I need to do to have a driver again is fix the charging system, and flush and seal the gas tank, replace the rubber fuel hoses, and finish the o/h of the carb. Looking forward to getting back from the Big Sandbox so I can get back to work on the old girl (and see the wife, too). Then I can start the cosmetic and suspension work...... |
| | | That's how it's done!! -- GaryXL, 10/27/2004
Okay, that sounds familiar. I will try it when I get home (in January). Hopefully that is all it takes. |
| | Big Sandbox? -- dennie, 10/27/2004
you spending a little time in the desert? |
| | RE: '64 390 Genarator charging problem -- giacamo, 10/31/2004
the norm trick i use for a generater wen i install it is i install the generater atach all the wires leave the belt off take the lid off of the voltage regulater turn the key on push the points together in the voltage regulater and the generater will spin like a electric moter,let it spin for a coupel of seconds install the belt start the moter and it should work,to polarize it.somtimes the brushes may hang up or be to thin to work?or the armeter has a dead spot in it or the fileds have a short or open any one of thease thing can keep it from charging. |
| bolt pattern -- tumbleweed, 10/26/2004
I am planning to rebuild a block to drop into my 64 Galaxy and was planning to use a newer 390. ihave been told that Ford changed the bolt patern on the motor mounts sometime in the 60's. Does anyone have definate info. Thanks. |
| 1965 ford galaxie not charging -- shannon fisher, 10/25/2004
My father gave me a 1965 Galaxie 2 door with a 289....well all things aside the car runs great stock everything but the problem I am having is the the batery will not charge. He told me that he put a new alternator and voltage regulator and I think the battery is newer. I only measure 7.8 volts on the battery when the car is running witch is way below what I think is should be. I found something on the internet that if I jumpered out the A and F terminals on the plug that plugs in the voltage regulator that I should read max voltage output across the battery... Does anyone have any idea what I can do to figure this out.. I pulled another battery off of my ford escort and put it on ...well with the engine running it showed 12.50 volts....I have no idea where to turn .....If someone could tell me what wires go where on the alternator that would be awesome...I need to check my dads work...lol |
| | RE: 1965 ford galaxie not charging -- giacamo, 10/26/2004
i,d pull the alternater and have it tested,if it tests fine i,d supect the voltage regulater,with out geting to teck i,d barrow a voltage regulator i know is good,and see if that fixes it. if thouse items dont fix it you haf,t to start tracing you wireing,to find out wear the problem is.some times the conections a the voltage reg is bad or the alt wires are bad? |
| 1970 mach 1 - good price? -- bprewit, 10/25/2004
Locally there is a 1970 mach one. It was converted to 1/4 mile racing so no interior. There is some rust, large hole where battery tray used to be and behing the front and rear wheels. 351C 4V, electric water pump and offy intake. Auto tranny, original hood scoop. The guy wants $1500 but on ladys property and she wants storage fee of $500. $2000 total isnt bad price eh? |
| | RE: 1970 mach 1 - good price? -- giacamo, 10/26/2004
it,s hard to say prices, for me i i,m a cheap basterd if it,s what i wount i may pay big, but try not to, sounds like a decent deal.if the floors are good with no rust and the supension is not alterd.i,v changed body panels befor as doors fenders ect, but if the unibody is suffering from the ages of rust i look at the buy as a partes only doner car. |
| Help engine noise -- bill, 10/25/2004
I recently aquired what is supose to be a "built" 390 with 427 heads. it has the performer intake and carb and a lunati cam (not sure which one right now the paper work is at home and I can provide later if needed). The person who had this before me said that they were getting on it and something happened, what ever it was it doesn't run just right anymore and has a chirp that follows the rpm's up and down. Checked the compression on each cylinder and 7 of them were at 130 psi and the passenger rear was at 90 psi. This block was also suposedly balance and blue-printed. I need help on how figure out what c.i. components i do have and what the chirp might be. |
|  | RE: Help engine noise -- bill, 10/25/2004
also how to figure out what year and if its a truck or car motor because it was transplanted into an 81 ford PU from who knows what. |
|  | RE: Help engine noise -- GaryXL, 10/26/2004
Sounds like they may have bent a valve or a pushrod. Pull the pass side valve cover and check the pushrods on that cylinder to see if either of them are bent, then rotate the crank through a full revolution watching the rockers to make sure they follow correctly and don't get loose at any point (if a valve is bent there should be a little slack in the valvetrain, depending on how deep the lifters are preloaded). The "chirp" you hear could be air leaking past the valve. This could also be a dry rocker shaft, if a cam bearing turned in it's bore (had that happen on a Chrysler 360).
Hope you find an easy fix, sounds like it could be a stout motor. I'm sure you will get several posts on how to identify what you have. Look it over and write down all the casting #'s you can find, you'll need them. |
| | | RE: Help engine noise -- bill, 10/26/2004
Thanks Gary. I'll pull the cover tonight and try that. I pulled the front cap off last night and am planning to pull the engine tonight. I am planning to put this engine in my 81 4X4. |
| | | | RE: Help engine noise -- Bill, 10/26/2004
Gary,
I don't think I explained the noise well enough the chirp is at idle and as the rpm's go up it sort of becomes a rattle like mabye the sound a cracked fly wheel would make or like a car dieseling but at a constant interval and level. I pulled the valve cover and checked the push rods and they are straight as an arrow and it doesn't appear that the valves are bent. Also the sound appears to be coming from under the truck more than up top. I saw a couple of 390 ford trucks at the local you yank it salvage yard...you think I should get ready to pull them and bring them home...they aren't very expensive 250 or so...
Thanks Bill |
| | | | | RE: Help engine noise -- GaryXL, 10/27/2004
That's different, that could be a main bearing rattle. What kind of oil press is it carrying?
I'd go ahead and pull the motor, and then drop the pan and look around a little bit before buying another motor that could be the same or worse. Looking won't cost anything but a gasket or two. |
| | | | | | RE: Help engine noise -- bill, 10/27/2004
alright I'll do that and let you know what i find
thanks |
| | | | | | | RE: Help engine noise -- jerry, 03/24/2005
had what sounds like identicle problem on 390. still had power but wasnt the same. problem wasnt in the bottom. just a pcv valve thatcracked inside. sound changed like you say with rpm. i wont tell you how much work and money was spent finding that one |
| | | | | | | | Boy, no kidding - I'll bet that was a tough one. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 03/24/2005
n/m |
| C6TE heads -- jeff, 10/24/2004
question about heads , im still deciding what head to use on a 428, i have a couple sets of C8AE H heads that need rebuild. And whatever heads my 69 390 s code engine has, or the guy boring my engine has a set of C6TE heads from 1966 , i noticed they have bigger intake ports, he wants $450 for them are these heads much better than what i have? the heads are ready to go they have been rebuilt. They would have to be tapped on exhaust ports to fit my mustang i believe . thanks jeff |
| 1967 mustang starter problem -- goldberg, 10/24/2004
I have a 1967 mustang coupe 289 engine. My original 289 block was leaking coolant into the oil pan from a small crack at the rear of the block.The has been changed to a 69 or70 302 block with my 289 crank& rod pistons. The problem I am having is the starter is not disengageing from the flywheel all the time.But some times it will. The starter drive seems to be to tight into the flywheel.
HELP!! Goldberg |
| | RE: 1967 mustang starter problem -- BB67FB, 10/24/2004
I am not sure, but did the starter bolts have washers on them, and u forgot to put them back on with the bolts (causing the starter gear to mate too far in with the flywheel)or perhaps adding an additional washer on each bolt may help as well. hope this helps! |
| | RE: 1967 mustang starter problem -- giacamo, 10/25/2004
do you have the plate betwein the engin and bellhousing instaled? |
| Help on Decking my FE Block -- John C, 10/23/2004
Gents, I'm getting ready to rebuild my 390 block. I'm building a roller motor with the same set-up that alot of us read about in Jan/04 Hot Rod Magazine. I want a strong but streetable car. If the block is decked to a zero tolorance, what will happen to my compression, streetability and gas octane concerns? I'll be running Edelbrock FE heads, .30 over and a Crane roller cam. Sorry boys but I'm just a greenhorn. |
| | RE: Help on Decking my FE Block -- giacamo, 10/24/2004
i try not to cut anything if you must deck or mill the heads, just try to remove as littel as posibel to square things up,on the compressin you may haft to just measure everything,,,,,to figure it out. |
| | | RE: Help on Decking my FE Block -- Tim P, 10/31/2004
I,ve seen on several 390 blocks that the deck height is so close that you leave it alone mill the heads if you must just square up everything thats my .2 cents worth. |
| | | | Hot Rod buildup -- Dano, 11/01/2004
Also, on the Edelbrock heads you may want to have the rocker oil holes drilled and tapped for the Holley jet restrictors, and be sure to double check the head gasket/cylinder head oil drainback holes for good alignment, this will save you some potential headaches down the road. I built my 390 exactly the same way that Hot Rod did except I used the Erson rocker setup instead of factory rockers, and it is a great combination. I got 420hp @ 5300rpm and 479 lb/ft. I had problems with too much oil going to the heads, and the valves started to float at 5400 rpm, I think there was more power on tap since the hp was still climbing but the valve float ended any higher rpm dyno testing. Since I have installed the restrictors and run the engine for about a thousand miles, It revs freely to at least 5900 rpm now. One thing that Hot Rod did also was to clearance the valve guides to the valves, they thought it was a bit tight, that may be what caused some of the inital valve float in my engine. Plenty of vacuum for the power brakes also. I used FPA headers that were on the engine for the dyno. They fit perfectly in my 69 Mustang with 4 speed, lakewood belhousing and power steering, with virtually no leaks! Its a pretty awesome performer for a pump gas, daily driver 390! |
| | | | | RE: Hot Rod buildup -- Tim P, 11/02/2004
Nice setup hope you have lots of fun with it. Tim P. |
| 427 Heads ? -- David, 10/23/2004
I have a set of heads with casting #s of
C4AE- 1060H and have a big H in the center.
cups under springs, triple springs and nipples
on intake valves. I was told they or 427 low
rizer, but i am told buy someone that is interested in a tri-power 406 i have and just throwing in these extra heads that they are 390. i don't want to make a mistake for my
lack of knoledge. What are these heads? |
| | search messages for c4ae-h, -- dennie, 10/23/2004
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