Which tells you just about nothing other than it is for a '68 and later application. It's probably a big in (1 3/8") and big out (31-spline) if it came off the back of an FE. For the most part, the tailshaft number gives you the indication of what it would fit, not necessarily what its original application was. But the little metal tag that might still be attached to the passenger side of the case would tell you the original application(like RUG ** or HEH **) as long as the trans hasn't been altered.

As for what it might be worth...that depends on what kind of trans it is and what kind of shape it's in. It may be worth no more than a core -around $300.00- to quite a bit if it's a particularly small production number application and is in great shape and needs nothing -a very unlikely prospect for a trans that hasn't been in production for nearly 30 years.

Now go track one down or install an adjustable unit from Wilwood. The brakes work fine but you may find a problem if you do a full-force stop.

Proprtioning valve, 67-69 mustangs with disc brakes had a distribution block mounted under the master cylinder and a separate proportioning valve, (the object you describe), in 67 it was back by the axle, and 68/9 it was up by the distribution block.

Glennz i,d go salavage yard hunting i belive the fairlane and outher unibodie styial cars used the same valve you need, i,d reininstall one back in thear for the sake of stoping under heavey braking...........

the vac may be normal but the ticking is not do thay all tick?what tipe of lifters did you use?do the springs mach the cam?is the rocker tin hitting the rockers with a higher lift cam now?are your valve gides ok,a higher lift cam brings out more noise from loose gides.is your oil presser ok?are the push rods hitting the head or intake in thear holes?theas are some things i,v found that make noise.i,v sean the 280 in 390,s work with power brakes, but more things than the cam can afect vac, as in compression, intake type timeing even the carb,and exaust, can change the vac 1 or 2 points.i,s hard to gess wear your ticking is from but i,d look at heads real clouse....

Ticking seems to be a normal thing. I have the 270 one size down. It ticks at idle and increases at higher speeds. I went nuts like you are and guess it's normal. Vacum around 13-14 so had to put an elec. vacum pump to get the brakes to work. As for the smoke do you have the oil baffles in. Mine was fine till I changed intakes, left the baffles out and it smoked like crazy, put them back in and it's fine now.

Does it sound like detonation (pinging), or more like something mechanical? If it has held together this long my imagination says it's pinging with the advance/fuel ratio change/engine load. But, a friend of mine built an FE many years ago with the pistons poking out of the cylinders a little too far. Just enough to cause a rattle something similar to what you're taking about. He ended up double up the head gaskets for short term fix (didn't last).

Wayne K.

if you had the autolight just rebilt try tuning it more befor givingup on it thay are a desent carb, you may haft to drill out the hole in the manifold to install a new tube for your choak.i,d keep tinkering with the autolite to keep the stock look..........

Yes the C3AE-B is a correct carb # for the single 4V 427-410, '63-'64. I have read from various sources that it's a 700 CFM, not a 750 or 780.

I have one of these carbs. I had it rebuilt/manufactured by the expert Joe Bunetic. I bought mine for $125 on ebay but it had the incorrect metering plates. Joe has the info on the correct ones. He replaced mine with the primary plate - 3903(Yours is correct) and the secondary plate - 3814(Did you transpose the 1 & 8 or did I?).

I think in good rebuildable condition with the correct plates, that carb is worth between $200-$300.

Rebuilt by Joe.....it's worth $600.

Joe Bunetic's phone # is 618-397-3580 Illinois

The FE valvetrain is pretty heavy. If you've got stock, old valve springs you'll float the valves pretty quick and run the risk of dropping a valve if one of them breaks. If it were my car, I would replace the springs and crappy stock retainers and locks with newer stuff before I ran it hard.

Also consider adding an extra quart of oil. The stock FE oil pan isn't baffled very well and when you accelerate quickly it runs away from the pickup. I've run mine with an extra quart for a long time--you can't even tell its in there, just cheap insurance.

With replacement stock springs and a stock passenger car cam you'll probably run out of steam around 5000 max. With a hotter cam and a solid bottom end a 390 will spin to 6000 safely.

cheap http://hurtle.com/cars/mustang/fixes/carb/

I got some copper header/exhaust gaskets off e-Bay a while back, the guy regularly sells them on there. They should last a long, long time I should think.

Scott

John, I don't know about the gaskets but as for the beer, I've found that Budweiser works best and if they're really tight throw some Jack Daniels in the mix, you'll get em in......

Well John it seems as though we have a few things in common. Last year I recently rebuilt my 390 FE that came out of a 67 Mustang. The gaskets I think that you should get are the FELPRO wire core. All the racers and FE guys around town use them. Happy motoring

for renforced the shock tower on all big block cars and they call the clevland a small big block