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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3481&Reply=3481><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>big block smog tubes</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>ROBBIE, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote><br>I'm wanting to buy the bracket that supports the left hand(drivers side)tubes,,So any bent up rusted out tube set ,,with the bracket on it ,,I can cut it off and weld it to my tubes,,any 67-70 big blocks should work fine 390-428 let me know whats out there,,good or bad,,<br>  Mr F said to post here as well and maybe one of you california guys can help me out,,I just need the bracket,,or if some one is a good pattern maker ,,With pics I can fab it myself ,,I just don't know exactly what it is shaped like,,Please Help<br><br>Robbie 660-679-6422<br><br> </blockquote> big block smog tubes -- ROBBIE, 12/04/2000

I'm wanting to buy the bracket that supports the left hand(drivers side)tubes,,So any bent up rusted out tube set ,,with the bracket on it ,,I can cut it off and weld it to my tubes,,any 67-70 big blocks should work fine 390-428 let me know whats out there,,good or bad,,
Mr F said to post here as well and maybe one of you california guys can help me out,,I just need the bracket,,or if some one is a good pattern maker ,,With pics I can fab it myself ,,I just don't know exactly what it is shaped like,,Please Help

Robbie 660-679-6422

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3484&Reply=3481><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>You need the brkt. too? I might have one - check in tom'w. [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> You need the brkt. too? I might have one - check in tom'w. [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/04/2000
n/m
 RE: still looking -- ROBBIE, 12/11/2000
Still need the smog tube support bracket ,,any help out there??
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3476&Reply=3476><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Gotta' find this part.......</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Joshua Fethke, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Alright, I am the proud owner of a 428 Cobra Jet. I have one problem, I can'r seem to find the proper bracket for the alternator. Everything I have tried does not line it up withe the pulleys on the crankshaft. Is there a proper bracket? If so, where can I get it? if not, what can I use? One last question....Are there any reliable sources for 428 parts and accessories? thanks. jf </blockquote> Gotta' find this part....... -- Joshua Fethke, 12/04/2000
Alright, I am the proud owner of a 428 Cobra Jet. I have one problem, I can'r seem to find the proper bracket for the alternator. Everything I have tried does not line it up withe the pulleys on the crankshaft. Is there a proper bracket? If so, where can I get it? if not, what can I use? One last question....Are there any reliable sources for 428 parts and accessories? thanks. jf
 We stock the correct CJ brkts. Click on 'Contact Us', above. [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/04/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3475&Reply=3475><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Just checking up on things</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Stanley Superior, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Honesty is the best policy. Thank you for your support and understanding. </blockquote> Just checking up on things -- Stanley Superior, 12/04/2000
Honesty is the best policy. Thank you for your support and understanding.
 A worthy sentiment, Stan. Thanks for stopping by. ;-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/04/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3465&Reply=3465><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FE identification</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Brian Miller, <i>12/03/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I recently purchased a truck that supposedly has a 360 from 1977. From what little info I managed to get from my haynes manual, I am starting to doubt this because-<br>It has a points distributer<br>The oil dipstick is on the driver side<br><br>Is there any conclusive way to identify this engine? Also does anyone know of a good source for service manuals?<br>Thanks in advance,<br><br>Brian </blockquote> FE identification -- Brian Miller, 12/03/2000
I recently purchased a truck that supposedly has a 360 from 1977. From what little info I managed to get from my haynes manual, I am starting to doubt this because-
It has a points distributer
The oil dipstick is on the driver side

Is there any conclusive way to identify this engine? Also does anyone know of a good source for service manuals?
Thanks in advance,

Brian
 Distrib. means nothing; look behind alternator for cast block ID [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/04/2000
n/m
 RE: FE identification -- John Wells Billmyer III, 12/04/2000
look above the oil pan on the passenger side
there will be the blocks casting number
also look at head stry matching the numbers up
 427 throwout bearing release fork -- Tom, 12/03/2000
I'm trying to locate a t/o bearing fork with the clip for the bellhousing. I have a bare bellhousing and need to dress it. I've been looking at e-Bay and contacting some parts places to no avail. Help ! My project is geting close to completion and this is one of the last pieces I'll need. Anyone know where to find these?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3457&Reply=3457><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 exhaust manifold gaskets</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>j.shipley, <i>12/02/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>i have a1963 390 motor in a 1959 galaxie, and go thru exhaust manifold gaskets with regularity. What is the solution. Are there any headers that will fit in this tight squeeze??also is there a<br>power brake swap that can be done ??? </blockquote> 390 exhaust manifold gaskets -- j.shipley, 12/02/2000
i have a1963 390 motor in a 1959 galaxie, and go thru exhaust manifold gaskets with regularity. What is the solution. Are there any headers that will fit in this tight squeeze??also is there a
power brake swap that can be done ???
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3461&Reply=3457><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Gaskets always fail; Ford used none - just smooth mating surfaces. [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>12/02/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Gaskets always fail; Ford used none - just smooth mating surfaces. [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/02/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3468&Reply=3457><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Ford used none - ???...CISZ 9448-A...???</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>S7MS, <i>12/03/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>FORD did use exhaust manifold gaskets in the early years of the FE  (FORD-EDSEL)series engines. There were two styles, one for passenger cars (352-390) and one for medium/heavy truck (FT 330-361-391).<br><br>If it continually blows exhaust manifold gaskets, the exhaust manifold is most likely warped and once corrected (milled) can be mated metal to metal if desired. </blockquote> RE: Ford used none - ???...CISZ 9448-A...??? -- S7MS, 12/03/2000
FORD did use exhaust manifold gaskets in the early years of the FE (FORD-EDSEL)series engines. There were two styles, one for passenger cars (352-390) and one for medium/heavy truck (FT 330-361-391).

If it continually blows exhaust manifold gaskets, the exhaust manifold is most likely warped and once corrected (milled) can be mated metal to metal if desired.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3469&Reply=3457><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Are you saying his '63 uses gaskets or just 'making a point'? [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>12/03/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Are you saying his '63 uses gaskets or just 'making a point'? [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/03/2000
n/m
 Well...Both Actually... -- S7MS, 12/03/2000
If you will remember, they did use sheet metal gaskets with spark plug protectors. But I am not at my microfiche machine now and cannot ascertain whether they are still in service. I would imagine the passenger car types are obsolete but the medium/heavy truck styles are still available. They would work on the passenger car application.

Besides, you know how much I enjoy rattling your cage from time to time...8^)...
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3451&Reply=3451><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John, <i>12/02/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I just rebuilt a '63 427. All the bearings, rings, and oil pump have been installed. At first start up , engine idled at 40 psi , then slowly dropped to 25 psi. Now i can only get oil pressure up to 27 psi. I am manually turning oil pump(with drill at 850 rpm's)and still only get 27 psi. Pulled motor out again and removed oil pan, and noticed oil dumping out from the last cam journal.Is this normal for excessive oil to be pouring out from there? Could my problem also be caused by the aux. oil relief valve located above the cam. I've replaced the oil relief piston and spring with new pieces from Ford Power Products, but still can't get any oil pressure above 27 psi. I've aslo have rechecked the main and cam bearings to see if any were damaged at start up, but everything looks good. Thanks, John<br><br><br> </blockquote> Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- John, 12/02/2000
I just rebuilt a '63 427. All the bearings, rings, and oil pump have been installed. At first start up , engine idled at 40 psi , then slowly dropped to 25 psi. Now i can only get oil pressure up to 27 psi. I am manually turning oil pump(with drill at 850 rpm's)and still only get 27 psi. Pulled motor out again and removed oil pan, and noticed oil dumping out from the last cam journal.Is this normal for excessive oil to be pouring out from there? Could my problem also be caused by the aux. oil relief valve located above the cam. I've replaced the oil relief piston and spring with new pieces from Ford Power Products, but still can't get any oil pressure above 27 psi. I've aslo have rechecked the main and cam bearings to see if any were damaged at start up, but everything looks good. Thanks, John


Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3454&Reply=3451><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John, <i>12/02/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I also am having oil pessure problems with my 428, but not like this one.  Your oil pressure is normal for an idle, but low for cold oil or high revs.  Things to check for....oil pump loose to block...oil pump pick-up cracked, loose or screen plugged with gasket sealer...oil pump relief piston stuck open, or spring broken.....pressed in oil gallery plugs working loose....rocker shaft stand loose(ones what pass oil)...filter plugged with debris from machine work, or gasket sealer...cam retaining plate loose(1 screw goes into oil gallery for distributer)<br><br>BUT...you have classic signs of a bad sender unit for the oil pressure gauge...these things tend to internally leak past the flexible diaphram and equalize the pressure on both sides....If it is a Ford sender unit, drill a small hole on the top of the beehive adjacent to the lug for the wiring and try driving the car...if oil pressure indicates normal again, replace sender unit.<br><br>Cam Bearing?...sorry, sounds weird, but I don't really know.<br><br>Block internal relief spring?....didn't know center oilers had them. </blockquote> RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- John, 12/02/2000
I also am having oil pessure problems with my 428, but not like this one. Your oil pressure is normal for an idle, but low for cold oil or high revs. Things to check for....oil pump loose to block...oil pump pick-up cracked, loose or screen plugged with gasket sealer...oil pump relief piston stuck open, or spring broken.....pressed in oil gallery plugs working loose....rocker shaft stand loose(ones what pass oil)...filter plugged with debris from machine work, or gasket sealer...cam retaining plate loose(1 screw goes into oil gallery for distributer)

BUT...you have classic signs of a bad sender unit for the oil pressure gauge...these things tend to internally leak past the flexible diaphram and equalize the pressure on both sides....If it is a Ford sender unit, drill a small hole on the top of the beehive adjacent to the lug for the wiring and try driving the car...if oil pressure indicates normal again, replace sender unit.

Cam Bearing?...sorry, sounds weird, but I don't really know.

Block internal relief spring?....didn't know center oilers had them.
 RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- John, 12/02/2000
<Your oil pressure is normal for an idle, but low for cold oil or high revs>
No, I only get 27 psi at all times , idle, hot or cold.
The oil pump and pick up are new, the filter is an o-berg type that I have been cleaning the screen every time I turn the oil pump using a drill. I have no sending unit , my oil pressure guage is tee'd into the line and i've tried 2 guages and both read the same.
The only problem I see is that there is excessive oil pouring out from the oil gallery on the last cam journal, and can't figure out if this is normanl or or if it is by-passing , Would the oil relief valve located under the main oil gallery and above the cam, not be functioning properly to cause this ?



Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3458&Reply=3451><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Pat, <i>12/02/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>By any chance you aren't running an additional oil cooler are you ?<br><br>Also,  before you put the new oil pump in, did you take it apart for any reason?<br><br>Also,  have you tried taking the oil pressure reading from a different place in the block?<br><br>Does the pressure you are getting build slowly to 27psi or does it get there real fast?<br><br>What grade of oil are you using?<br><br> </blockquote> RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- Pat, 12/02/2000
By any chance you aren't running an additional oil cooler are you ?

Also, before you put the new oil pump in, did you take it apart for any reason?

Also, have you tried taking the oil pressure reading from a different place in the block?

Does the pressure you are getting build slowly to 27psi or does it get there real fast?

What grade of oil are you using?

Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3459&Reply=3451><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John, <i>12/02/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>&lt;By any chance you aren't running an additional oil cooler are you ?&gt;  No<br>&lt;Also, before you put the new oil pump in, did you take it apart for any reason?&gt;  No<br>&lt;Also, have you tried taking the oil pressure reading from a different place in the block? Not yet, that is my next step... <br>&lt;Does the pressure you are getting build slowly to 27psi or does it get there real fast?&gt;  psi builds up gradually  and as temperature rises, psi from 27 slowly drops, and fluctuate with engine rpm's , but does not go higher than 27 psi<br>&lt;What grade of oil are you using?&gt; 20w50<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br> </blockquote> RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- John, 12/02/2000
<By any chance you aren't running an additional oil cooler are you ?> No
<Also, before you put the new oil pump in, did you take it apart for any reason?> No
<Also, have you tried taking the oil pressure reading from a different place in the block? Not yet, that is my next step...
<Does the pressure you are getting build slowly to 27psi or does it get there real fast?> psi builds up gradually and as temperature rises, psi from 27 slowly drops, and fluctuate with engine rpm's , but does not go higher than 27 psi
<What grade of oil are you using?> 20w50









Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3460&Reply=3451><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>390 Gt, <i>12/02/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Sounds like you may have poped one of the plugs on the top oil gallery at the rear of the lifter valley. That would drain  over the last cam bearing. Did you use the press in plugs or did you install pipe plugs.  </blockquote> RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- 390 Gt, 12/02/2000
Sounds like you may have poped one of the plugs on the top oil gallery at the rear of the lifter valley. That would drain over the last cam bearing. Did you use the press in plugs or did you install pipe plugs.
 RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- John, 12/03/2000
Tis weird indeed, but your problem is sounding more and more like mine, just I still have fairly high pressure, but it does build up more slowly than it use to, and no amount of reving will increase it. One fellow said he had a similiar problem, and found his block was cracked...Yikes! It is without doubt that low presure can only be caused by 2 things (assuming the oil pump is functioning, and thy hardly ever fail)...an internal leak, or a pressure relief valve problem. Like my engine, you say your bearings are fine...so look for a leak. I agree that the press-in plugs along the center gallery under the intake manifold could have popped out, but this should have been an all-of-a-sudden problem, not a gradually worseing one (I used scew-in plugs). The fact that your pressure is so very low indicates a leak closer to the pump than the last cam journal(cam bearings rarely fail)....There is a press-in plug next to the distributer drive also...you can pull the distributor and check it by looking down the dist hole with a flashlight. But you should really remove the pan and look up under the cam gear to see if the driver side cam retaining plate screw is loose. There's a small gallery there to lubricate the dist drive, and this screw plugs off the gallery where it was originally drilled out at the factory. Just for your info, a high volume pump should put out 80 psi cold idle or at revs when warm, and idle oil pressure should be about 18 to 22 warm. I am very interested in what you find out. By the way, I use solid lifters with the lifter galleries blocked off....If you are using hydraulic lifters, maybe something is wrong there...cracked block?....lifter popped out with bent pushrod?....I don't know,but you might as well tear the intake manifold off and have a look...check the press-in plugs at the same time. Oil bleed-off from your last cam bearing is difficult to fathom. Maybe it's just that your engine has a nose-up attitude in your vehicle and that oil drains to the back of the block in the lifter valley area. Any crank or rod bearing can show more oil than others if the oiling holes happen to line up just after you shut the engine off (pretty co-incidental I must admit). Anyway, what ever you find, please let us know. I for one am very interested in this. If I can be of more help, you may contact me directly at carol.martin@ns.sympatico.ca.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3466&Reply=3451><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Paul  R, <i>12/03/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>John. I just read an article in Car Craft magazine (NOV. 2000 <br>page 108).   A guy with a small block chevrolet had the same<br>problem ( low oil pressure, pan removed, oil gushing from<br>rear cam bearing area). His rear cam bearing was installed too<br>far foward by 1/4 inch & left the oil groove in the block exposed.<br>You may want too look for this.<br>Hope it helps. <br>  </blockquote> RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- Paul R, 12/03/2000
John. I just read an article in Car Craft magazine (NOV. 2000
page 108). A guy with a small block chevrolet had the same
problem ( low oil pressure, pan removed, oil gushing from
rear cam bearing area). His rear cam bearing was installed too
far foward by 1/4 inch & left the oil groove in the block exposed.
You may want too look for this.
Hope it helps.
 RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- John, 12/03/2000
the oil from my motor is pouring out from the oil pasasge that is drilled in the last cam journal , on the cam itself. I'm assuming some oil should travel through that hole , but there seems way too much coming through there. It seems like something is bypassing. I kind of narrowed it down to either the oil relief vavle at the back of the block is not functioning right , or maybe the machinists left a plug in one of the gallerys out. I am going to pull out the cam and manually drive the oil pump , and see what going on back there. Oh well, start ripping everthing apart again :(
John
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3482&Reply=3451><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>ROBBIE, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I too was thinking I had a problem but would like to have someone confirm,, I'm a new big block owner had several small block cars this is my first big block ,,start up cold oil pressure is 75-85 psi and once warmed up and driven it falls to 20 or so idleing ,,on a small block this is too much fall off from cold too hot but do you guys think thats acceptable for a big block??I saw a post in here that I thought said that<br><br>robbie </blockquote> RE: Help! 427 Top Oiler low oil pressure problem (long -- ROBBIE, 12/04/2000
I too was thinking I had a problem but would like to have someone confirm,, I'm a new big block owner had several small block cars this is my first big block ,,start up cold oil pressure is 75-85 psi and once warmed up and driven it falls to 20 or so idleing ,,on a small block this is too much fall off from cold too hot but do you guys think thats acceptable for a big block??I saw a post in here that I thought said that

robbie
 Yes Robbie...That is perfect -- John, 12/04/2000
That's perfect Robbie...the rest of us dumb schmucks just can't seem to keep our oil pressure where your's is. Drat!!!!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3449&Reply=3449><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 hi po & pi</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed Foral, <i>12/01/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a few questions which I am looking for clarification on.<br><br>The first is on a 61 Z code HiPO 390<br>What are the head and intake casting numbers, is the intake iron or aluminum, and does the engine have standard exhaust manifolds, or cast iron headers?<br><br>The second is on the 390 PI engines. What are the head and intake casting numbers, and are the intake or exhaust manifolds different than any other 390 of the same vintage?<br><br>I ran across a  390 from a 64 T-Bird that had a C4 cast block which had the heavy webbing below the mains like a CJ or FT block.<br><br>Thanks<br>Ed   </blockquote> 390 hi po & pi -- Ed Foral, 12/01/2000
I have a few questions which I am looking for clarification on.

The first is on a 61 Z code HiPO 390
What are the head and intake casting numbers, is the intake iron or aluminum, and does the engine have standard exhaust manifolds, or cast iron headers?

The second is on the 390 PI engines. What are the head and intake casting numbers, and are the intake or exhaust manifolds different than any other 390 of the same vintage?

I ran across a 390 from a 64 T-Bird that had a C4 cast block which had the heavy webbing below the mains like a CJ or FT block.

Thanks
Ed
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3452&Reply=3449><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Info Sourced from 1st hand or Ford Only Please</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed Foral, <i>12/02/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have the usual Parts Interchange, ID guides, etc, which give conflicting information, but I have no period text MPC or other, from '61 to '65 when these engines were around. <br>I also have never seen a P code car or engine, or a HIPO 390 first hand.<br><br>Thanks<br>Ed </blockquote> Info Sourced from 1st hand or Ford Only Please -- Ed Foral, 12/02/2000
I have the usual Parts Interchange, ID guides, etc, which give conflicting information, but I have no period text MPC or other, from '61 to '65 when these engines were around.
I also have never seen a P code car or engine, or a HIPO 390 first hand.

Thanks
Ed
 RE: Info Sourced -- Lou, 12/02/2000
Ed, I have a friend in New York state that has a 61 HoPo 390 Conv and knows these cars. He may be able to help you. E-mail me at vehicle@snet.net and I'll give you his phone number...Lou
 FYI: 390hp block was Ford's only svc. rplcmt. for awhile [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/02/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3486&Reply=3449><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 hi po & pi</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John Wells Billmyer III, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>only the 427 had cast iron headers <br>try to find the Ford high performance parts interchange book<br>it will give a lot of the info you are looking for<br> </blockquote> RE: 390 hi po & pi -- John Wells Billmyer III, 12/04/2000
only the 427 had cast iron headers
try to find the Ford high performance parts interchange book
it will give a lot of the info you are looking for
 My 60 352 HiPo has cast iron headers Plus -- Lou, 12/04/2000
My 60 352 HiPo has cast iron headers Plus so did the 61 HiPo 390, and the 62/63 406.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3445&Reply=3445><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 Performance Question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Sean, <i>12/01/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hey all, I own a 1967 Galaxie XL Convertible with a Q code 428. It's dark green with a black top and interior. It's got the C6 Auto and only a few options including the deluxe wheel covers, an AM radio, air conditioning, and an 8 track player. I'm thinking of giving my Galaxie some performance upgrades. I'm looking to replace the original carb and intake. Anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking an Edelbrock 750 carb (part number 1407), Edelbrock Performer intake (part number 2105), and an Edelbrock cam (part number 7106). I can get it through Jegs at a reasonable price. Anyone have an opinion on this or any other suggestions? I just bought some Cobra Jet cylinder heads, so I will be bolting them on in the near future. Will those bolt right on without any problems? Or will some modification need to be made? Feel free to comment or e-mail me anytime!  </blockquote> 428 Performance Question -- Sean, 12/01/2000
Hey all, I own a 1967 Galaxie XL Convertible with a Q code 428. It's dark green with a black top and interior. It's got the C6 Auto and only a few options including the deluxe wheel covers, an AM radio, air conditioning, and an 8 track player. I'm thinking of giving my Galaxie some performance upgrades. I'm looking to replace the original carb and intake. Anyone have any suggestions? I was thinking an Edelbrock 750 carb (part number 1407), Edelbrock Performer intake (part number 2105), and an Edelbrock cam (part number 7106). I can get it through Jegs at a reasonable price. Anyone have an opinion on this or any other suggestions? I just bought some Cobra Jet cylinder heads, so I will be bolting them on in the near future. Will those bolt right on without any problems? Or will some modification need to be made? Feel free to comment or e-mail me anytime!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3450&Reply=3445><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 428 Performance Question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ed Foral, <i>12/01/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Don't  waste your time with the Performer which is not much better than your factory intake.<br>The Performer RPM # 7105 will give you better results.<br><br><br>Ed </blockquote> RE: 428 Performance Question -- Ed Foral, 12/01/2000
Don't waste your time with the Performer which is not much better than your factory intake.
The Performer RPM # 7105 will give you better results.


Ed
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3488&Reply=3445><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Why the RPM?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Morgan, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>What range will it kick in?  I thought the the RPM was designed more for racing and the performer for street use. </blockquote> RE: Why the RPM? -- Morgan, 12/04/2000
What range will it kick in? I thought the the RPM was designed more for racing and the performer for street use.
 RE: Why the RPM? -- Ed Foral, 12/07/2000
The Performer is for a grocery getter at low RPM only. At a fairly low RPM, the Performer RPM will smoke it's little brother and get the engine the air it really needs.
The cam Sean listed is a RPM cam, so it would be silly to choke the air off.

Ed
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3499&Reply=3445><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 428 Performance Question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John Wells Billmyer III, <i>12/05/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I suggest the intake but the carb I think a holley 780 duel feed single pumper will be  a better choice. holleys are easier to adjust and trouble shot. The cam will be ok but comp cams offer more powerful cams that can work better with the heads and carb. </blockquote> RE: 428 Performance Question -- John Wells Billmyer III, 12/05/2000
I suggest the intake but the carb I think a holley 780 duel feed single pumper will be a better choice. holleys are easier to adjust and trouble shot. The cam will be ok but comp cams offer more powerful cams that can work better with the heads and carb.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3502&Reply=3445><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 428 Performance Question</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Sean, <i>12/05/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>John,<br>           I'm also looking at a cast iron CJ intake.  I can get it for $100.  Would that be a better choice with the Holley carb you mentioned?  What about the heads I bought?  All of this will bolt on with little or no modification, correct?  I doubt I'll change the cam out, that's too much for me to do right now.  But I can do a carb, intake, and head swap while the engine is still in the car without pulling it.  Any other suggestions?  I just want to give my car a little more HP.  It seems like a dog sometimes in that big Galaxie.  I mean, after all, it is a 428!  It should act like it when I stomp on the gas!  I'd appreciate any other advice you might have on this.  Thanks! </blockquote> RE: 428 Performance Question -- Sean, 12/05/2000
John,
I'm also looking at a cast iron CJ intake. I can get it for $100. Would that be a better choice with the Holley carb you mentioned? What about the heads I bought? All of this will bolt on with little or no modification, correct? I doubt I'll change the cam out, that's too much for me to do right now. But I can do a carb, intake, and head swap while the engine is still in the car without pulling it. Any other suggestions? I just want to give my car a little more HP. It seems like a dog sometimes in that big Galaxie. I mean, after all, it is a 428! It should act like it when I stomp on the gas! I'd appreciate any other advice you might have on this. Thanks!
 RE: 428 Performance Question -- Joshua Fethke, 12/05/2000
I just Built my 428, For the advice your looking for I suggest That you know what you want your motor to do then discuss what parts to buy with Redline Automotive ( Redline Automotive Competition Engines) or R.A.C.E.. They have the parts catalogues your looking for. Tell thrm The Big Red Ford sent you.
 RE: 428 Performance Question -- John Wells Billmyer III, 12/05/2000
the edelbrock intake is the same cast as the 428 Police Interceptor
intake
as far as the heads they should work but it is a good idea to check the piston to valve clerance once on before you start the motor. I am not sure but new push rods might be in order but more than likly not.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3439&Reply=3439><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>1969/70 non ram air air cleaner</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Greg, <i>12/01/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a air cleaner with a vacuum actuated induction on<br>one side, crome lid, like a non ram air boss 302 or a non ram air 428 air cleaner.   It does not have the dimples to let<br>the carb sit on a holley carb (the float bowl screws hold<br>the air cleaner base up about 1/2").  What motor did this <br>air cleaner come off of?<br><br>Thanks </blockquote> 1969/70 non ram air air cleaner -- Greg, 12/01/2000
I have a air cleaner with a vacuum actuated induction on
one side, crome lid, like a non ram air boss 302 or a non ram air 428 air cleaner. It does not have the dimples to let
the carb sit on a holley carb (the float bowl screws hold
the air cleaner base up about 1/2"). What motor did this
air cleaner come off of?

Thanks
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3443&Reply=3439><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>It has the same rectangular 'flapper' as a Q-code, Greg? [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>12/01/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> It has the same rectangular 'flapper' as a Q-code, Greg? [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/01/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3447&Reply=3439><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: It has the same rectangular 'flapper' as a Q-code, Greg? [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Greg, <i>12/01/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>Yes Mr. F, It has the same rectangular "flapper" as a Q-code,<br>also a dimple by the rear float bowl bolt, but this bolt doesn't <br>match the float bowl bolt. </blockquote> RE: It has the same rectangular 'flapper' as a Q-code, Greg? [n/m] -- Greg, 12/01/2000
Yes Mr. F, It has the same rectangular "flapper" as a Q-code,
also a dimple by the rear float bowl bolt, but this bolt doesn't
match the float bowl bolt.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3470&Reply=3439><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Its likely a '69 390 air cleaner, which mates to an Autolite 4300 [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>12/03/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Its likely a '69 390 air cleaner, which mates to an Autolite 4300 [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/03/2000
n/m
 Thanks for your response Mr. F, Greg [n/m] -- Greg, 12/03/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3473&Reply=3439><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Its likely a '69 390 air cleaner, which mates to an Autolite 4300 [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Greg, <i>12/03/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>All the 390 air cleaners that I've seen don't have the rectangular<br>flapper, just a screened opening.  On a 428 with engine tag code 400,401,or 410 these motors where specified with <br>Ford 4 barrel carbs.  Could this air cleaner be from one of<br>these motors?  Did all 390's come with Ford 4 barrel carbs?<br><br>Thanks,<br><br>Greg </blockquote> RE: Its likely a '69 390 air cleaner, which mates to an Autolite 4300 [n/m] -- Greg, 12/03/2000
All the 390 air cleaners that I've seen don't have the rectangular
flapper, just a screened opening. On a 428 with engine tag code 400,401,or 410 these motors where specified with
Ford 4 barrel carbs. Could this air cleaner be from one of
these motors? Did all 390's come with Ford 4 barrel carbs?

Thanks,

Greg
 Yours is Mustang/Cougar 390 4V; 'screened' fits 66/67 390GTs [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/03/2000
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3493&Reply=3439><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>390 4v motors</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Greg, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>What's the difference between a Mustang/Cougar 390 4v and a 66/67 390 GT? (besides the air cleaner) (n/m) </blockquote> 390 4v motors -- Greg, 12/04/2000
What's the difference between a Mustang/Cougar 390 4v and a 66/67 390 GT? (besides the air cleaner) (n/m)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3494&Reply=3439><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Click 'Engines' in the forum menu - tons of specs.  :-) [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>12/04/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Click 'Engines' in the forum menu - tons of specs. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/04/2000
n/m
 RE: Click 'Engines' in the forum menu - tons of specs. :-) [n/m] -- Greg, 12/04/2000
Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction Mr. F
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3500&Reply=3439><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 390 4v motors</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>John Wells Billmyer III, <i>12/05/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>according to a ford book from the late 60's <br>the 390 GT has the stock 428 CJ cam the PI intake<br>bigger carb  </blockquote> RE: 390 4v motors -- John Wells Billmyer III, 12/05/2000
according to a ford book from the late 60's
the 390 GT has the stock 428 CJ cam the PI intake
bigger carb
 No PI intake on 390GT; click on 'Engines' for more info [n/m] -- Mr F, 12/05/2000
n/m
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