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 |  FE stroker engine -- Ron, 11/06/2000
I'm looking at building the well known 427 block/ 428 crank stroker FE engine, and I've heard about some new 'custom' pistons being available from Ross and/or Venolia, but there was also a set made by TRW (L2298) a number of years ago and discontinued to my knowledge. Are these pistons available at all today, new or perhaps used? What is a fair price for the good used TRW pistons, or even new ones for that matter. Does anyone know how much these pistons cost when new, before being discontinued? Also, if anyone has a set for sale, and/or perhaps a crank, at a reasonable price, please feel free to contact me via email as I don't check this forum as often as my email.
Thanks for the space and an excellent forum,
Ron |
|  | RE: FE stroker engine -- rich, 11/11/2000
Arias and Ross both offer various bore size pistons for the 427. I just started assembly on my stroked 427 with a new set of Arias .017 pistons. I purchased them through PAW (Performance Automotive Warehouse, 818-678-3000) Book price is $540.00. Good Luck. |
 | 428CJ C6 question -- Bill Brady, 11/06/2000
This question may open a can of worms similar to what's going on at the 429 Cyclone/Torino forum on this subject, but it's more to satisfy my curiosity and help me know whether I'm starting to lose it. There are a number of posts on 429CJ C6's and the concensus now seems to be that the 385 series trans had the stiffening fins on top of the trans case at least on the CJ/SCJ and other variants, at least for a while. I posted a message where I said that I've got a 429 Thunderjet out of a '71 T-Bird that also has the fins, but that I remembered most of the CJ C6's not having the fins. The more I thought about it, I may have been thinking of FE C6's, as a good friend of our family had a Mustang restoration business for many years, now retired. I just know that I've seen 428CJ C6's without fins and can picture one car in particular so equipped, a 68 1/2 GT, but now I'm not sure. Any help would be appreciated. Please excuse my humble FE knowledge. |
| Pulleys -- Rollie H., 11/06/2000
I have some pulleys for a 360 or 390 engine and wonder what accessories were driven by them. I know they drove the power steering, water pump and alternator.
Maybe an air pump for emissions vehicles?
The crank pulley and water pump pulley have three grooves for three belts.
The harmonic balancer is zero balance and has no grooves for belts machined into it.
Thanks in advance. |
|  | RE: Pulleys -- gordon, 11/06/2000
i have a few 390s and a 360 as well there should be a pulley bolted to the harmonic balancer also
gordon |
| | | RE: Pulleys -- Rollie H., 11/07/2000
Yes, like I said, I have a crank pulley with three grooves that bolts to the balancer. The water pump pulley also has three grooves in it.
What I need to know is what accessories were driven by them.
I had a 390 with power steering and ac and the waterpump pulley only had two grooves on that setup. So, what is the third groove for on the water pump pulley? I know the AC is ran to the crank pulley, so that makes three there. Was there an air pump installed on some emission systems that ran on the water pump pulley? |
| | | | What did this engine come out of? [n/m] -- Lou, 11/07/2000
n/m |
| | | | | RE: What did this engine come out of? -- Rollie H., 11/07/2000
All I know of right now is this. These pulleys are from a 390. The engine came out of a pickup truck last.
I will have to do some research to determine what the engine was in from the start. This engine may be from another vehicle than what it was in last.
|
| | | | | | FYI: some Ford pulley sheaves drive nothing [n/m] -- Mr Fomoco, 11/07/2000
n/m |
| | | | | | | RE: FYI: some Ford pulley sheaves drive nothing -- Rollie H., 11/08/2000
These were used to drive something at one time. There is wear in all three groves. |
| | | | | | | | Ok. Unfortunately, usage varies by engine, model, year & equipt. [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/08/2000
n/m |
| | | | | | | |  | RE: Ok. Unfortunately, usage varies by engine, model, year & equipt. [n/m] -- Rollie H., 11/26/2000
Found the use of the third water pump pulley sheave. It is used to run the AC belt on some vehicles. In this setup there are three belts running the water pump/fan pulley. Not likely to have an overheating problem due to a slipping belt with this setup!
Thanks for the responses.
|
| Intake Help Needed! -- Tonyt, 11/04/2000
I purchased the following aluminum Buddy Bar intake:
Casting number C9FE9424 E
Firing order:
1 426378 (note the 5 is completely missing)
I purchase this intake for my Boss 302. Please help me determine what I have.
Thanks,
Tony |
| Low FE428 Oil Pressure...Help -- John, 11/03/2000
I suddenly have low oil pressure in my 428. And I can't find anything wrong with it yet. I know if I strip the engine down completely, something will turn up..but I'd rather not if I don't have to.
So this is it....With a Melling high volume pump I was getting 80psi at a cold idle and 18 psi at a hot idle. Now I get 58 psi at a cold idle and 12 psi at a hot idle.
No amount of reving will get the pressure over 58 psi.
I have checked the rods and there is no play. I have checked the filter and found no debris, bearing or otherwise. All the press-in oil gallery plugs have been changed to screw-in plugs. Restrictors were fitted to the heads to keep the valves from flooding. Pump is OK...or appears to be(relief spring seems OK, but not easy to check).
Now, originally I used a HV/HP pump with this engine and got 145psi cold oil pressure, so I changed it at 1500 miles for a HV unit only. Now at 2500 miles the pressure is dropping.
Now, wouldn't you think, that with an engine tight enough to allow a high pressure pump to reach 145 psi, and that now with a HV pump that had a bypass set for 80psi it only reaches 58psi, that there should be some sort of massive internal oil leak?
Oh, I use solid lifters, so lifter gallereis are plugged.
I can't figure this out at all. Even if I had spun a bearing, which doesn't appear likely from my pushing and prodding of the rods and no sign of debris, the oil pressure should still be up, because of the small diameter galleries are restrictive in their own right.
Anyway...HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
John |
| | RE: Low FE428 Oil Pressure...Help -- RC Moser, 11/04/2000
John, I'd change the pressure relief spring, and double direct gauge the oil pressure to rule out any gauge error. Only other things I can think of would be a worn pump housing or where the pump meets the block allowing the oil to bleed of around the gears or between where the housing mates. Guessing the only thing left is a main bleeding down the oil pressure. About the massive internal oil leak, my opinion it don't take much of a internal leak to bleed down the oil pressure. Another thing you never mentioned what oil filter you are using and I'll guess take you are using 20W-50W racing oil. Not much help. RC |
| | | RE: Low FE428 Oil Pressure...Help -- John, 11/04/2000
Thanks for your input RC...the relief spring seems to have a pressure bewteen an stock pump and a high pressure pump when I compare them, so I think that it is OK.
Oil Pressure gauge is a Borden Tube typ and I checked it with my air compressor. Every regualtor change fro 10 psi to 80 psi...both gauges read the same.
You very well be correct in your thoughts it doesn't take much of a leak to reduce oil pressure. Maybe this is what confuses me. We all know these Fords require higher oil pressure than Chev's, right? Well...why is that. All bearings for rods and mains require the same lunrication regardless of what manufacturer they are originate from. So...it is the smaller oil galleries in the Ford that make the pressure high right after the pump...but the same as a Chev at the bearings...I have a hard time getting over this fact. The galleries themselves contribute highly to back pressure and subsequently the oil gauge reading shouldn't change much form even a spun bearing.
Hey, withthe old HP/HV pump I had 145 psi..now, with the HV pump only I have 58psi.....teh relief valve isn;t even opening anymore...but still no debris in filter.
I was using a Fram HP-1 and 10W40...I also use a System 1 oil filter now and then...just install a HP-1 between using the System 1 so i have time to clean it.
I used to use 10W30 when I had the HV/HP pump.
The HP pump could actaully suck the sump dry with cold oil that wouldn't drain back properly. If I moved the car to quickly after starting, you caould see the oil pressure gauge flicker as the pick-up got an air bubble.
I love my car...and I think the engine is terific, but I know something is wrong, and I don't want to lose a 428 crank...or any other expensive parts because I didn't listen to what the gauge is telling me.
thanks a lot for your input.
John |
| | RE: Low FE428 Oil Pressure...Help -- John, 11/05/2000
Well.....I have received many responses from this and other forums, and the overwhelming advice is bad rod bearings, even though I have no debris in the oil.
So,.....considrr this....the only time the rod bearings get full oil pressure is when the crank and rod holes align with the oil galery feed.....twice per revolution and only for a very short time. Can this really affect oil pressure readings to a significant degree?
I do have excessive rod side clearances, but they are the same as when I rebuilt the engine.....2000 miles ago.
I think I have to pull the engine....bearings must be it. The car is like a rocket on wheels, so no douobt I have sucked air inot the oil pump when all teh pan oil is back against the rear wall of the pan. Maybe a dry sump system next....$$$....that's all it takes.....chuckle!
Thanks to everyone who helped.
John |
| | | RE: Low FE428 Oil Pressure...Help -- Ross, 11/06/2000
I have been reading this and it sounds like a bad main, not rods. You are right that rods not usually do what you are saying. If you can get the pan off, pull a few caps and check them. By loosening all the caps you can sneak a set of mains in pretty easily - Ross |
| | | | RE: Low FE428 Oil Pressure...Help -- John, 11/08/2000
I have made further inspections of my engine and still cannot find what has
caused my decrease in oil pressure. Bearings seem OK, and I even checked the cam retainer plate as one of the bolts seals the oil gallery to the ditributor. All gallery plugs were changed to threaded type and installed with loctite...very firmly. But I have one further question before I decide to strip it down. In a desperate attempt to check out the oil
pump (Melling M57HV, Wolverine Blue Racer P/N WG-324X) I decided to check the
bypass spring and piston. When I center-punched the press-in plug for
drilling, it moved down into the pump housing quite a bit, maybe a little over
or around 3/32 of an inch. Shouldn't the press-in plug be bottomed out to the
counter-bore at the factory during assembly? If it moved out, it would
explain why my cold idle oil pressure has dropped from 80 psi to 58psi and
that no amount of reving will increase it. Mind you it doesn't explain why my
hot idle oil pressure has dropped from 18 psi to 13 psi, but at an idle, even
100 rpm difference creates a noticeable effect on oil pressure. So, the
question is,"Should the press-in plug be bottomed out in the relief valve
bore, or not? |
| | | | | RE: Low FE428 Oil Pressure...Help -- Chris Teeling, 11/08/2000
I think you have found the answer to your problem. Just like a valve spring, the relief spring has to be installed at the correct height to allow it to open at the right pressure. |
| | | | | | RE: Hope the block is not cracked! -- Paul R, 11/23/2000
John. I hope this didn't happen to you. It happened to me. I wouldn't had beleived this if I didn't see it for myself. My 428, not a Cobra Jet Block, had cracked in the # 2 and 4 main bearing journals from crank to camshaft on both sides of the drilled oil galley holes. I had opened up the oil holes in the mains as you probably know they do not line up with the bearings. The same thing happened to me with the oil pressure. One day I had 80 psi hot at 3000 RPM hot. After a race it dropped to 55 psi at 3000 RPM hot. I didn't find the problem until I removed the crank a year later. So, look for this. And I hope I'm wrong.
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| | | | | | | RE: Hope the block is not cracked! -- John, 11/23/2000
I hope you are wrong also...my next step is to strip the engine...funny though..it's only a 2500 lb car and I have never exceded 4000 rpm...too frightening...so not much stress should have occurred. If you are right, I have a spare never been bored 428 block, plus 410 pistons with a 390 block...but that stuff is spare I'd hoped I wouldn't use for a LONG time yet. Thanks for your input. When I get this figured out, I will post a message and thank everyone for their input. Thanks for now.
an FE nut ....John |
| by pass hoses -- gordon, 11/03/2000
i have a 302 and plugged off the thermostat by pass hose on it because i have been told it would give me a hotter heat and it does BUT now when it reaches thermostat temp it seems to make the heater hoses thump like it is over heated does anyone have any ideas why this is happening now
gordon |
| | RE: by pass hoses -- Greg B, 11/03/2000
Because the bypass is plugged.
If the coolant is hot enough so the thermostat is open, coolant flows through the thermostat, the upper coolant outlet, the upper radiator hose and back into the
radiator. If the thermostat is closed, coolant flows directly from the thermostat
housing back to the water pump through the bypass hose. When the thermostat is
partially open, coolant flow is split between the two systems.
You have created an imbalance in the flow of coolant reinstall the bypass |
| | | RE: by pass hoses -- gordon, 11/03/2000
Thanks
but i cant figure out why if the temp is up it is doing the thumping like its over heated tho and why it will put out more heat with the by-pass hose plugged off so all the coolant goes thru the thermostat either
not all cars have this by pass hose either so why dont they have a imbalance as well in their systems
could i just have some trapped air in the cooling system is all also and leave the by pass plugged if it is purged out
thanks
gordon |
| | | | RE: by pass hoses -- Barry B., 11/06/2000
Gordon, you need the bypass hose for the coolant to circulate through the engine while the thermostat is still closed. By plugging the hose, the coolant remains stagnant in the block and heads during warm-up and is causing hot spots in the heads. That is the thumping sound you hear, the coolant is hot and stagnant in the heads, creating steam pockets. Also during warm-up, the temperature gauge and thermostat temperature lags the true average temperature of the engine because the stagnant coolant has large temperature gradients throughout the engine (it needs mixing). The only time you can plug the bypass is when you run without a thermostat. If you are looking for more heat, just put a higher temperature unit in it.
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| | | | RE: by pass hoses -- gordon, 11/06/2000
i ended up over the weekend sticking the by pass back on the engine because i found that it was not allowing the cooling system to hold the right amount of coolant when i drained it i found only about 1 quart of antifreeze in the whole thin since reinstalling the new hose i stuck a radiator cap on also and everything seems to be fine now
where i got this idea of plugging off the by pass hose was from the ford truck forum so i thought i would give it a try to see just goes to show ya you cant beleive everything you read HUH
thanks
gordon |
| Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- RC Moser, 11/03/2000
Notice I said opinions, What was the fastest ford produced, including the special edition cars. I read that the 67 Fairlane Sedan 427 holman and moody prepped car ran 10:81 @ 138 (a car you could by from a dealer new, no warranty, but new). If I remember that's quicker than the Thunderbolts, lightweights, AC cobra, Super cobra jets of the woods era, and the shotgun 429 hemi's. Think about it, the 427 is KING, what do you all think. Remember, opinions, are like @@@@@@@@ we all have them. |
| | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- Stryder, 11/03/2000
Im not sure what numbers it made, but there was one Cobra built with a dual paxton supercharged 427. I think this would kick the crap out of the Fairlane.
Stryder |
| | | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- RC Moser, 11/04/2000
Stryder nice talking about 427's, no dough it probably could. But, their's alway's a butt!. Could you buy it from a Ford dealer or was it a dealer installed item or a special edition. ANNNNNNN, don't count. But, I have to commend you on the selection A 427. FE's RULE... guess you can tell I'm kind of partial.... |
| | Wouldn't those be the bombers Ford made in WWII? -- FE428, 11/04/2000
|
| | | a friend used to say that the AC Griffith 289... -- kevin t, 11/12/2000
was the fastest car. I doubt it, but curious if anyone knows anything about these. |
| | | | RE: a friend used to say that the AC Griffith 289... -- RC Moser, 11/13/2000
I'll guess and say it was a English car that ran the road race curcuits in Europe in the early 60's. which was probably the father of the AC sprint corbra's known in the US as shelby's. Well I that's the best I can do in guessing. RC |
| | | | | RE: a friend used to say that the AC Griffith 289... -- Greg B, 11/14/2000
The Griffith was really started life with the TVR Grantura Mark IIa and later bcame the Griffith 200 then 400
They came into being from the workshop of Jack Griffith in 1962 Who thought it would be fun to transplant an American V8 into a little British sports car,
Sounds kinda familiar.
See http://www.motorbase.com/picture/pid/-511045593.html
for what they looked like |
| | | | RE: a friend used to say that the AC Griffith 289... -- Jim Raymond, 11/15/2000
Yes,
First it's not an AC, it was an AC Bristol, and that was the original body for the Cobra.
The Griffth was an early TVR from England built in Blackpool. It was their version of Shellby's Cobra, and made for only two-four years as I recall, would have to dig out the books. It was a glass body car, pretty noisy inside and tuff to get into, even at 5'8".
Been down Orange County Drag Strip in '82 in one, 289 with a 4spd, as I recall 104 mph and slow ET. due to reaction time, wasn't driving.
Jim |
| | | | | RE: AC Griffith 289...and stepchild tiger. -- RC Moser, 11/15/2000
Jim, thanks for correcting my guess. Did Griffith have a brother named SunBeam? Just kidding. When I was in England in the early 90's seen quite a few AC's, Griffith's, Shelby's And a tiger or two at Silverstone. They were all neat and all powered by FORD. But, don't you agree the badest was the 427 powered version. RC |
| | | | | | RE: AC Griffith 289...and stepchild tiger. -- Jim Raymond, 11/15/2000
RC,
My dream, have the engine, just trying to talk the wife into the rest of the car.
I had a '72 2500 TVR which my brother has now, it is one of the last total round tube chassis, think there were only about 5 more built after it before they started to use the rect. tubing. Had the head reworked, duel exhaust, cam reground and have a set of triple side draft Dell'orto that I haven't given him yet. The car was a lot of fun to drive, excellent around corners, really scare some friends in it.
Jim |
| | | | | Griffith 289... From the web -- Greg B, 11/15/2000
The TVR Griffith began as the brainchild of its creator,
Jack Griffith in 1962. Griffth ran a car repair workshop who catered to patrons such as Gerry Sagerman and Mark Donohue. Both men had driven the works TVR Grantura at Sebring in 1962. Legend has it that one day at the shop, just for fun, Griffith decided to see if he could drop the Ford V8 from Donohue's AC Cobra into Sagerman's TVR. It didn't quite fit, but the idea had been planted in Griffith's mind. After performing a proper conversion for the car, and showing it's potential worth, Griffith contacted TVR with the details of his plan. Griffith wanted TVR to supply him with slightly modified TVR Grantura chassis without engines or transmissions which were to be fitted at his shop in America. TVR jumped at this idea and quickly began supplying chassis at the rate of 5-10 per week,
The addition of a V8 to a Grantura turned it into a veritable beast. The Griffith 200 could either be fitted with a 195 hp motor, or a Hi-Po 289 that pumped out 271 hp. Performance of the car was unbelievable; 0-60 times were quoted as 3.9 from the factory, although 5 if closer to the truth. The
quarter mile came and went in 14.1 seconds and top speed was in excess of 150mph. The Griffith could embarrass nearly any car on the road.
In 1964, the Griffith 200 was replaced by the 400. The 400 was a much better all around car |
| | | | RE: a friend used to say that the AC Griffith 289... -- R.H., 11/15/2000
Anything with a 289 would have been a turtle by todays standards. The late model 5.0's and even the new 4.6 Sohc in the mustang would Make a 289 hi-po owner think it was time to get out and push! Whats the fastest ever 289 hi-po 17 seconds in the 1/4? The very very fastest cars in the late 60's were a low 14 or very high 13.00 thats what a 260 hp mustang gt runs today! |
| | | | | RE: a friend used to say that the AC Griffith 289... -- Jim Raymond, 11/15/2000
RH,
You're talking apples and oranges here, nobody had computers, very little plastic, cars had real chassis, steel bumpers, wind tunnels etc. etc...
Yes, they are able to get the same and more HP from smaller engines, but that's what technology has done for us.
Jim |
| | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- Randy H, 11/13/2000
If we are talking Factory cars not race cars by other manufacturers that the typical person could not buy (like the t-bolt) I would say the 67 427 Comet Capri mostly because of the weight & they were 7" longer than the Fairlane (1/4's were 7"longer) better weight transfer. There is a road test on 1 that shows 13.68 @ 105 does not seem that fast but it was a 3.89 OPEN rear with a F70-14 tire. Everyone seems to forget no POSI. Not only that I have a 17k mile original sitting in my garage. (67 Capri 2dr hd tp 425/427 1 of 6 produced) they were actually almost 100lbs lighter than a 390 cyclone as they had less sound deadner and of course the aluminum intake alone approx 60lbs. Here is a quick pic of my detailed engine ready to be dropped back in shortly.
 |
| | | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- RC Moser, 11/13/2000
Randy H. no dough you have a rare and fast car. Us dreamers would only dream of a 427 Comet. I agree in 64 that you probably couldn't by a T-Bolt from a Ford Dealer, But, as I recall (I was 15 in 66) if you had the money you could special order a "R" car such as you comet, a fairlane in two models "500" and Holman and Moody Sedan, the GT500's and a few Tornio's with the "R" 427's I see the engine facts also lists a SOHC motor also. But, They are probably rarer than the KING CORBA Torino. (I also remember the SOHC kit was a over the counter preformance item that would boost a "R" 427's HP to over 650) I guess you would have the same thing if you could shed a few pounds. Sweet motor, how about a Pic of the comet? Nice talking to ya.. RC |
| | | | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- Randy H, 11/13/2000
The only veh a R engine was avail in 66 Was the Fairlane 500 but you had to be a racer to get one when Magazines started to have articles about them the 50 or so were already sold. In 67 you could get a 427 in a Fairlane 500 hd tp, xl 500 and the 2dr post. In the Mercury line they were avail in the 202 sedan 22 were built, The cyclone 19 R codes & 8 W codes, The caliente of which 4 were built (I owned 1 of the 4),and 6 Capri R codes and one Capri W code for a total of 60 cars. These could be ordered from your local dealer. Hard to sell tho as the 427 engine option alone was 1129.00 & a mandatory 4spd for another 189.00 my car new was 4003.90 that was a lot of cash back then but not much could catch them! I will try to dig up a pic of car. Its on a rottiserie now as I am giving the undercarriage a detail and repainting the engine bay. All chrome,trim,interior inc seats,carpet,dash are all orginal along with all weatherstrips,glass very unmolested car it probably has the most documentation of all 60 cars built. rh (I owned it the first time when I was 21 it had just turned 12,000 miles & I bought it for 1500.00 I just bought it back this april for slightly more!)I sold the car Jan 1st of 83 so it was gone for a little over 17yrs to same person I sold it to. I just bought it from his estate. |
| | | | | Dyno Numbers -- Randy H, 11/13/2000
I will post some chassis dyno numbers as soon as I get a few miles on it. I tested it on a old Clayton Water dyno Back in 82 @ 3000 it was making 240hp rear wheels & you can figure approx 100hp per 1000 after that. The tires had a little problem with the rollers & dyno would only hold it up to 3000rpm after that just spin. |
| | | | | | RE: Dyno Numbers -- RC Moser, 11/13/2000
What a find, you were very lucky getting your car back. The 67 sedan I read about was in Musclecar Classics Dec. 91, said their were 216 produced in 66 and 67, but didn't say how many were sedans. Said the car was sold new in Rosen-Novah Ford in Denver CO. Back then the owner was a guy from Simi Valley CA.(I won't mention his name). I don't even know if they are still produce the mag. At the time they only done spreads on orginal restored musclecars. I owned several Fords, 66 Fairlane GT, 68 PI galaxy HT, 71 Tornio 429 GT, 55 F100 transplant 428 marader, 67 F100 ranger transplant 428. I never was in a situation to afford a "R" car. The cop car was Kind of rare beings it was a turtle back HT. All the information the mag. was pretty close to your information. I thought this car was even rarer do to it's a 2 door sedan with the Holman and Moody modifications. Your comet will be one rare beast when you get it done. Nice talking to a 427 fan. RC |
| | | | | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- BOB HOPKINS, 11/13/2000
way back in March of 1967 i wasjust discharged from the Air Force 23 years old new everything, driving my 57 custom 427" 4/speed {bought parts with tdy money} me and the first ex-wife were going to the dragraces up at alton dragway in Illinois stoped at a Lincoln -Mercury dealer tolook at new cars ,there it was comet 2/door post 427" 4/speed,no radio/heater window sticker was $4100.00 thought they was out of their minds. wish icould buy it now!!!!! |
| | | | | | 427 202 -- R.H., 11/14/2000
Bob, I have all the vin's on these rare
birds. There was only 1 202 built less heater and it was a T code Red with red interior out of the Boston Ordering District. There were 2 possibilities for this 202 if no radio. A black with red cloth/vinyl interior, A Red w/red vinyl interior,as these two cars were the only non radio cars in the district. What color do you rember the car to be? Give me a little more detail & I could tell you the VIN. The only 202 built without heater was built in April so that would not be it. |
| | | | | | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- RC Moser, 11/14/2000
Bob, still got the 57? What a ride that must of been. I always like the custom 300's over the other models. Thought the shorter wheel base and the post made then look neater when hot rodded. Sounds like your getting the 427 fever also.. RC |
| | | | | | | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- BOB HOPKINS, 11/14/2000
YEP STILL COT THE "57" OUT IN THE GARAGE WORKING ON IT THIS WEEKEND {FIRST TIME IN A LONG TIME "GOT THE ITCH GOTTA SCRATCH "} I KEPT THROUGH TWO MARRIAGES TWO DIVORICES NEVER COMPLAINS ABOUT LACK OF ATTENTION OR WORKING ON OTHER PROJECTS I HAD IT OUT 3-4 YEARS AGO ON A SAT. AT ATCO RAN 12.5 112 ON FIRST TIME TRIAL STARTER QUIT TOOK IT HOME TO FIX /REPLACE THE STARTER NOITICED OIL/GREASE IN BELLHOUSING, DROPPED TRANS. TO FIX THAT DECIDED TO LOOK AT CLUTCH WHILE I WAS IN THERE , WORN DISK BOUGHT NEW RAM FULL COMP DISK, HAS NOT BEEN OUT OF GARAGE SINCE. EVERY THING ELSE KEPT GITTING IN THE WAY TOW VEHICLE KEPT ACTING UP/QUITING RANDOMLY DIDNOT TRUST, {NEW HOBBY-WOODWORKING},LACK OF MONEY.
GOT THE ITCH A WEEK AGO "GITTING OLD ME AND THE CAR" dicided to convert it over to c-6 for a while,less brakage more consistent. like that four speed though that last run was against a "57 chevy" remember it well out if the corner ov my eye every gear i could see him creeping up to my door and pull another gear and he would fall back it was lovely!!!!
|
| | | | | | | | Stop, you're making me cry! -- Orin, 11/16/2000
Just reading your stuff got me to thinking of my first car. It was in 1965, I was 21 (also almost out of the Air Force) and the car was also a 57 Custom 2-door sedan (the cheapest body style) with a 312 T-bird V-8, auto.
In Oct of 1966 I planned to buy a '67 Fairlane 500 hardtop (289-2V, 3 on the tree) and a friend wanted the carb from my car for his brother's 57 Fairlane. Rather than "parting out" the car I sold him the whole shebang for -- ARRRRRGH, A LOUSY $10!!!!
Last year I passed on an offer for a 57 Custom 300 4-door 292/auto -- the guy was asking $6K for it.
Enjoy your 57 -- sure wish I had mine back -- and I'd even return the $10 with interest!!!! |
| | | | | | | | | RE: Stop, you're making me cry! -- BOB HOPKINS, 11/16/2000
I wish i still had some of the cars i toor up will i was in the air force 2 56 fairlane hardtop's, a 1957 fairlane convertable a 1954 customline glasstop a 1954 2/doorpost 312". They were cheep down in texas dont remember paying more than a $150. 00, the last 1956 farelane 2/dood sedan had a 361" edsel motor that i replaced with a over the counter 427" shortblock {$400. 00 t. D. Y. Money} put the edsel heads, pan, shafer aluminum flywheel & plate to the stock t-85 3/speed {father to borgwarner 4/speed}390" tri-power 65 ford station wagon front springs and 3 extra leaves in rear springs found lincoln shocks would fit and stiffer,in 1965 4/speed's were rare!! that son of a gon would spin 8. 50 goodyears {no wide ovals were around for us poor gi's $200. 00 amonth was pay then} all the way to 50 in low leave black streaks to 90 in second and 8' black marks in 3rd then go on with 3. 23 rear gears and touch the back side of the zero peg on the speedo, lots of sice stright roads in west texas 120 was at aboutthe 4 oclock pos on spedo and the zero was around 7 we was moving on down the road. Fell asleep on way home fron air force wrecked it bought the 57 to replace it, had to hear from wifes that i should git rid of that toy for years got rid of her instead!!!!
old man babbling on again. |
| | | | | | Color of the 202 -- Randy H, 11/14/2000
Bob, What color was the 202 you saw at the dealership? What color was the interior? Do you remember anything else about it? rh |
| | | | | | | RE: Color of the 202 -- BOB HOPKINS, 11/15/2000
RANDY:
I can't definitly remember been a couple years,it wasen't a dark color,black or blue and the best i can remember it was red or brown . though ido seem to remember the red interior.
i can still see it sitting there on the dealer's lot on a sunday morning,becaus it was such a supprise to see,we walked around looking at the comet 390"GT's and here in the middle of the pack was this plain 2/door post untill i noticed the fender badges "427" Iwas inlove.Will iwas in the Air Force tried to buy a66 390fairlane the previous wear,a candy apple red /blackinterior 390"/4/speed GT,was driving a "56" fairlane with"427-3/speed od tried to work a trade with another GI to buy the 56 and swap engines, what a deal i would have had a 427"faiflane before the factory relase. No deal drove the 56 untill I wrecked it on the way home from service and dropped in the 57 custom which I still have and will untill I croke,
ramble on old man thanks for lisning
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| | | | | RE: Opinions, we all have them, Fastest FORD in 1/4! -- Robert, 11/20/2000
Man you guys Whats wrong with a 427 Shelby Cobra on Street Drag Radials 1800#s with 500+ Hp. |
| | RE: Fastest FORD in 1/4! TASCA SUPER BOSS 429 -- Jason, 11/15/2000
I'm a proud owner of a 427 and I have great pride in these rare racing blocks, but there is a strong competitor. "TASCA SUPER BOSS 429 HEMI"
This 494 ci Hemi was put in a few 69-70 sportsroof mustangs by TASCA as a promotion to get the "Blue oval" back into racing. In 1970 it ran 11.40 on street tires. The owner of one in 1997 rebuilt the engine, placed it on an engine dyno which yieded 735 H.P. He got the car down the track in 10.75 seconds. |
| | | RE: Fastest FORD in 1/4! TASCA SUPER BOSS 429 -- RH, 11/16/2000
Jason, What magazine/article did you read that from? rh |
| | | | RE: Fastest FORD in 1/4! TASCA SUPER BOSS 429 -- RC Moser, 11/16/2000
Jason, it's well known how much HP the "BOSS" can make when modified. Bob Glidden ruled in Prostock for years running that motor. I not familar with the TASCA version. Was Tasca a ford dealership like COPA and Yenko? RC |
| | | | | RE: Fastest FORD in 1/4! TASCA SUPER BOSS 429 -- BOB HOPKINS, 11/16/2000
Tasca ford is still adealership as far as i have heard. In the "60" the were the east coast ford proformance dealer, bob tasca was the father of the cobrajets he built the first one and took it to henery to show the brass what they should be building,got a big rightup in hotrod mag that started a letter writing flood to ford for a production 428" mustang. Also was campaining a1963 427" fairlane before ford built the thunderbolts so he helped on that end too. |
| | | | | | Now if we narrow it down to cars built on the Ford -- kevin t, 11/16/2000
assembly lines. I have to mention the 63 Galaxie lightweight. Production 212. Not all were built on the line, but most were. I think they were the only lightweights built on the line. Dick Brannan turned 11.97 et in 63. Most ran low 12's. Thanks guys for the stories on the Griffith's. Always wondered about those. |
| | | | | | | 429 Boss is a POS so are all those other engines! -- ANT, 11/27/2000
Why are you guys talking about all of these sissy engines?
And uh Jason, The 429 boss was not a true hemi. It is classified as a semi-hemi. 700 some horse power is nothing on a super modified engine.
Now the best engine EVER, which is fords only true hemi is the
427 sohc FE. Stock, this thing had like a 615hp single quad, and like 660hp on dual quads. THIS IS STOCK.
Back in the 60's some racers had turbo 427sohc in their fiberglass body mustangs with over 1200hp. I don't remember there exact ET's but they were under 8 sec. Imagine the power when modern speed equpment is applied to these engine????????????thats what I thought
shut up.
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| | | | | | | | Blown, maybe, but no 'turbo' SOHCs back then [n/m] -- Mr F, 11/27/2000
n/m |
| | | | | | | | RE: 427 SOHC message for ANT ANT READ THIS -- Jason, 11/28/2000
ANT, I'm not sure why you are telling us about the 427 SOHC engine? If you can read, the tittle is FASTEST FORD IN 1/4. The 427 SOHC was an over-the-counter engine selling for $2500. It was never placed in a factory car, you could purchase the engine only. The engine did make 615HP, but I highly doubt this engine can do the 1/4 without a chassis, body, and remainder of the drive train. Next time read BEFORE you right. You make yourself sound like a clown ANT. You poor guy! HA. HA. |
| | | | | | | | | RE: 427 SOHC message for ANT ANT READ THIS -- ANT, 11/28/2000
Jason,I said that in response to your non-facts about the boss 429 being a hemi. and don't just say the lowest horse power 427 sohc, a dual quad made 657hp and fuel injection made 700hp.
And this is an FE forum so I am completely on subject. But how about you, the last time I checked the boss 429 wasn't an FE.
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| '67 390 intake upgrade -- Chad Collins, 11/03/2000
I was looking to replace my single 4v intake on my 390 with dual 4v. I found an Offenhauser intake with Carter AFB carbs, but I am still lost on how I am going to hook it up. Will the stock 8v setup from a 427(or any other FE engine) work? Is there a better or original setup that I can put on? Any help/information will be great.
Thanks
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| Oil restrictor in heads -- Will, 11/01/2000
I've heard about putting the oil restrictor in the FE heads, but how do I know if I need them?
I've got the Edelbrock heads. I've also got reduced shank studs in the stands that have the oil feed. So, there's another question, would it be better to use normal studs or the reduced shank studs?
I was wondering if Edelbrock was kind enough to size the oil feed correctly to avoid too much oil up top.
I have an old set of valve covers. I guess I could cut the top off and see how much oil was being pumped. Maybe I answered my own question. |
| What temp? -- Will, 11/01/2000
What thermostat should I be using?
I've got a 195 deg. right now, and it seems too hot. When I turn the engine off, I can hear bubbling in the radiator. That didn't happen (at least I didn't notice it), when I had a 180 deg. thermostat.
It isn't overheating with the 195 deg., but the engine just seems so hot.
I chose the 195 because the books called for a 192. Plus, I figured that running the engine hotter is more thermally efficient, so as long as it wasn't causing problems it would make more power.
Has anyone tested engines on a dyno at different temps? If so, what was the difference? |
| | RE: What temp? -- John, 11/04/2000
I use 165 deg thermostat...engine reaches 180 deg Max and oil temp reaches 210 deg max. Old style engines shouldn't run as hot as newer technology engines, at least that's what I have been told. |
| | | RE: What temp? -- Will, 11/04/2000
I originally posted the question on this forum, but I didn't get any responses after a few days. So... I posted the same question on
http://network54.com/Forum/74182
There are several viewpoints out there.
The main points I've determined are:
1. Lower temps cause faster cylinder & ring wear.
2. Higher temps are more thermally efficient.
3. Dove makes an adjustable thermostat.
#1 is significant enough for me to stay away from 160deg. #2 makes sense, but I'd like it measured. I plan on making a dyno trip soon. If I get a chance, I'll do back-to-back runs with different t-stats to see if there's a measurable difference. I think because of #1, I'll at least use a 180 deg t-stat. If there's a horsepower difference, I may run a 195 deg t-stat. |
| | | RE: What temp? -- Sally, 11/04/2000
> I use 165 deg thermostat...engine reaches 180 deg Max and oil temp reaches
> 210 deg max. Old style engines shouldn't run as hot as newer technology
> engines, at least that's what I have been told.
> I use 165 deg thermostat...engine reaches 180 deg Max and oil temp reaches
> 210 deg max. Old style engines shouldn't run as hot as newer technology
> engines, at least that's what I have been told.
My freshly restored '69 Mach has a 428CJ and has had overheating prob. since I got it back. I had a 4 row core rad. installed to prevent a hot engine. The thermostat has been changed 3x and now has a 190 or 195 deg thermo. The water pump has been changed to a new FoMoCo pump. The rad. has been boiled out. The rad. shop said it had only 10 - 20 deg. drop between top and bottom tanks. The A/C shop said intake manifold measured 240 deg. Rad. hoses are new. Has great water flow. The fan has a new clutch. This is an A/C car but the A/C has not been hooked up or used. Timing has been checked, car is not pinging. What else can I have mechanic try? |
| | | | Correction Sally and Will -- John, 11/04/2000
Sorry you two, but when I said I used a 165 Deg thermostat, I was incorrect...I just checked and it is indeed a 180 Deg thermostat. And the engine does run at 180 deg water temp and 210 oil temp...just about perfect as far as I am concerned.
Now, Will...higher temp reduces wear?...Yes, of course, but only to a point...as oil gets too hot, it loses viscosity( it may even break down)...also if engine is tight, parts may rub if they expand too much due to heat.
You all probably have noticed how a frying pan seems to slip and slide over a red hot stove element, but when the element is cold, there is considerab;y more friction. Well, this is why a hot engine wears less and cold start-up is where most of your wear occurs.
Anyway...a 180 deg thermostat is good...in my humble opinion, for an FE...all my reading on engine temps seems to confirm this...Dave Vizaed and Smokey Unich books come to mind.
Good Luck you two. |
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