Brian, My opinion Old school says only .030 over. I've never had it done, but others on this web site have talked about having the blocks sonic tested to see how thick the walls are. If they are too thin for a overbore over .030 guess you could have it sleeved, especially if it was a rare block. Maybe you get some more opinions. RC

I have two 428's and two 427's. Both 428's are .060. One is cross bolted and one isn't. Both run well on the street and in the 1/4. I would not recommend the standard 428 two bolt block even at standard bore for racing. For racing stick with the 427's. Remember that FE's do not jump from .030 to .060. You can go in just about any increments. .040 is a standard overbore. Anything else you would need to purchase customs pistons which still is not a big deal.

Sonic testing is cheap, and it will answer the question of how far you can go with no worries.



Ed

Sonic Testing won't help much, because the cylinder walls on FE's are already too thin from the factory. It will show the "thinner" spots, but how much is too thin? 0.030" is safe...so is 0.04 I suspect, but over this?...big risk...blocks aren't that hard to find...go for a 410 with the 428 stroke and 390 bore...you probably won't see the difference, and 390 blocks are easy to find...pistons..hmmm...FPP, but beware of delays. Sleeving is only OK for 1 cylinder per cyl bank. If you sleeve all cylinders, block will be too weak between block deck and main saddle. cylinders don't crack from combustion pressure...they crack from tension between the deck and the crank area...round the cyl like it was cut with a hacksaw...not up and down like a split. So, sleeving all 8 cylinders will result in a block prone to failure....Of course I could be wrong....chuckle

If it is a drag-pac car then it should have a SCJ. All SCJ cars came with V or W codes to denote 3.91 or 4.30. You should check for the pie shaped external crank balancer behind the hormonic balancer. What type of valve covers do you have, are they the snake ones? Cool car you have the same drive train as my 69 GT500.

Here is a copy of an old post

Ed

--------------------------------------------------
Drag Pack availability
by Mike Bellaire
Mr. F, I was reading one of your previous posts:

>>>
However, while the dealer's first set of pricing/ordering instructions (9-27-68) did mention the 428CJ's Ram-air option, its interesting to note there was no mention of either the "Drag Pack" or the separately available "shaker" scoops. In fact, those two options weren't officially "priced" until the 2-1-69 mailing. Based on this paperwork, then, its at least arguable whether those features were offered before February.
<<<

...and thought I'd throw in a tidbit of information. I have a Ford memo, dated August 7, 1968 entitled "Late 1969 Model Regular Production Options". Listed under Fairlane and Mustang is this entry:

Car Line Option - Traction Lok Axle Ratios 3.91 and 4.30 with all 428-4V engines
Build Date - 10/1/68
Available at New Model Introduction - No
Remarks - Excessive engine oil temperatures and poor engine durability necessitate release of engine oil coolers and revisions to certain engine components. It appears likely that it will be the middle of October before dealers will obtain Mustangs and Fairlanes with 428-4V engines and 3.91 or 4.30 axle ratios although this date could be improved.


Posted on Dec 29 1998, 04:24 PM
from IP address (199.179.26.177)

All You need now are some 410 pistons and a machine shop to bore it .030=416, .060=422 Flatlander Racing has some available, as does FPP
Go Forged or Hyperutectic for Racing or Street Strip , Cast is fine for all Street

head casting would indicate a 73 motor. I beleive any 385 series C6 will work as work as you have all of the attendent mounts, downshift linkage, manual lever etc. as for mounts you might the one of the 429 forums or the general ford forum. you are contemplating a VERY involved and COMPLICATED project. MY advice would be to find a 460 van Doner vehicle.

Geo, I'd say if you use it for a daily driver and not for all out power probably don't matter. Matching the ports, polishing the runners, and raising the carb. (by spacer or high rise intake) allows the heads and intake to flow a lot more air. At higher RPM this will increase the power. Now, whether it's worth the extra money? I'd say yes, the more effecient the air flow the better MPG and preformance you will get out of your investment. MY opinion, maybe you'll get some other responses. RC

The Streetmaster 390 needs some work. I have that intake right now and have spent several hours doing the mods and matching the ports. It's not all that hard, basically remove the intrusion into the plenum just under the carb base at each of the corners, those 1/2" bumps that are about 1" down from the carb base. The second area is the end of the runners. I used clear wax paper to trace a pattern from the heads and matched that to the runners to find where to remove material.
I got some info from Edelbrock that was posted on the other FE forum, I'll try to attach it here.

As to how important this is, a smooth, easy flowing intake will help with power and torque. It makes it easier for the engine to do it's job and you can gain MPG at the same time, depending on how bad it is now. Those bumps just under the carb base are not good, it causes the air/fuel to make a awkward turn, big smooth curves are best. Don't forget to check the gasket for intrusion into the path.

It doesn't matter for a street engine..or for racing most likely...it may matter for 1/4 mile times though. Now here's my story on it...I used an old Offenhauser 2X4 Aluminum manifold on my 428. There is a severe port mismatch at the intake. The head material sticks way up in front of the fuel/air flow from the manifold...it also hangs down in front of it...we're talking a 3/16 inch wall at top and bottom of port any least. Now...with this car I can get the front wheels to lift of the ground at 1/3 throttle...it is the fastest car around where I live...and it scares the crap out of me...so...I don't need or want anymore horsepower....when you have 480 HP in a 2500 lb car...the problem isn't squeaking another 25 or so horses out of the engine...it's keeping traction between the tires and the road....so in a nutshell.....you'll beat the Chevs, not withstanding the port mismatches.

Faron, That's a NICE Mustang! I can only dream of owning a nice ride like that. You've really done a good job with the 390. I think your in the PRO STREET catigory though. NEAT CAR, Congrat's.

Nice Mustang.
My ride is a mostly stock 1969 Cougar XR7 convertible wih the 428CJ R code. C6,A/C, P/W, PB, PS, 3:50s. 94,000 miles. I love this car! I still have some details to finish, but it's pretty much restored. I've never raced it, at least not yet. It's a fast, comfortable, cruiser.

Matt there basically the same balance and if your going to have it rebalanced which I would recommend
you will have no problem with the parts you have

Brian

n/m