Skip Navigation Links.
 |  columbus fall ford swap -- scott, 10/14/2000
Just out of curiosity, any Feforum regulars going to the big fall columbus swap meet? I go every year and am curious who else might be going. |
| ![Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=3038&Reply=3026><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a> <b>Well, there's me. :-D [n/m]</b> -- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>10/15/2000</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote>](/WebResource.axd?d=5j1V7IJBhc-qdmzmrXlobq0gFNxbOjgd7TeV-LysSEekJ7Gmtc2x9RMYHtS9EW5yU7wHEIWgz1wWu2IMG322RtthXdkInI49gjJzA4laYxsFhGCZI8wW_xoN6HxVXe4-0&t=637814653746327080) | Well, there's me. :-D [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/15/2000
n/m |
| | | RE: Well, there's me. :-D [n/m] -- scott, 10/17/2000
well if you have a booth# let me know. i'll stop by |
| | |  | RE: Well, there's me. :-D [n/m] -- Rodney, 10/17/2000
I also go every year, looking for more parts. I dont have a booth, just buying not selling. |
| | |  | RE: Well, there's me. :-D [n/m] -- scott, 10/17/2000
Dont need a booth, I'm buyin not sellin any way. just thought it might be fun to hook up with any forum guys that might be there. It also never hurts to have an xtra pair of eyes while your for some obscure part |
 | Fe and 428 Exaust gaskets -- RSR, 10/14/2000
I'm replacing the 390 2V in my 67 Merc with a rebuilt 428 passenger car motor. FELPRO list 2 gaskets 1) standard composition type. 2)stamped steel heat sheild type. I bought both just becuase I wanted to see what the heat sheild type looked like. Which gasket would be more correct for the 428- the 390 had the standard type gaskets as removed from the chassis. I will also be replacing the 390 2v single exhaust with true duals sometime in the near future, is there a better flowing standard style exhaust manifold that I can use that will bolt up to the standard dual exhuast system. P.I.- Tbird etc |
| | RE: Fe and 428 Exaust gaskets -- Greg B, 10/14/2000
Are you refering to exhaust manifold gaskets or exhaust flange gaskets(donut)?
Ford did not use exhaust manifold gaskets on the production line the machined surfaces were good for a proper seal
The flange gasket was of composition type |
| | The MPC lists FE exh. gaskets, but they're not 'factory' parts [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/15/2000
n/m |
| Do you remember... -- Bill, 10/13/2000
when Ford use to mark there bearings (mains & rods) blue / red.
Blue = as marked. Red = .0004 undersize.
Well I'm lookin for STD. size Red, in both mains & rods for my "62" 406.
Of course I always look for the impossible to find stuff.
Any help would be greatly appreciated |
| Oil Splash Shields, Long vs. Short? -- COUGAR, 10/12/2000
I'm talking about the oil splash shields around the valve springs.
There are long & short versions. Apparently the long versions direct oil directly back into the lifter valley. The short version directs the oil back accross the rough cast heads.
The short splash shields are very common.
Do you have any information about which engines used the Long splash shields?
CURIOUS COUGAR |
| Steel Shim Head Gaskets Source ( Not Dove ) !! -- Faron Rhoads, 10/12/2000
Being an FE Guy for 23+ Yrs and working in the Aftermarket Parts Business for as Long I Came across a Mr. Gasket No 1132 years ago,that is still available, it is .018-.022 Fits all FEs Except 427s and only costs 18.00 a set |
| Advice: 352 engine rebuilder in Mass. -- Rob, 10/12/2000
I am thinking of having my 1962 Galaxie 500 2dr.'s 352 2 bbl. rebuilt. I live in massachusetts and was wondering if anyone knows of a good rebuilder in the boston area with experience building FE's. I was wanting to overbore the motor to 4.05" and go with a 390 crank and rods to 390 specs, maybe with a slightly bigger cam and a four barrel manifold, but just a slightly lopey street motor. Anybody out there have this sort of work done? What is a reasonable price for dissassembly cleaning, magnafluxing, boring, honing, decking, rebuilding the heads, and assembly of the new engine, etc..excluding the cost of the four barrel intake, 390 crank, and rods?
Thanks in advance,
Rob. |
| FE engine swapover! -- Damian Poulos, 10/11/2000
I have a 75 ford F250 with a 360, it's leaky and tired, I also have two 428's and a 351 available to me, will any of these engine bolt up as a replacement without heavy mods? thanks! |
| | RE: FE engine swapover! -- Faron Rhoads, 10/12/2000
The 428 is a No-Brainer Direct swap ( as long as You have the 428 Balancer
and Flywheel / Flexplate), However why not save the 428s for something a little
more sporty , Rebuild the 360 swap in a 390 crank, at todays Gas prices a 390 is
a good Compromise in Displacment vs Cost and Use Factors ( also can use 360
Flywheel ) save bucks and Gas hey a .030 390=395 cui will be a big change
compared to a worn out 360. PS Just for giggles Blow it like My Mustang , it
will even fit under your hood !!!!!!!!!!!!
 |
| What carb(s) should I use? -- Will, 10/10/2000
I've got a 428CJ, Edelbrock heads, big solid cam, C7ZX shelby 2x4 intake, and Holley 1850's in a 67 GT-500 clone. When I drive the car, I can smell gas. I don't know what mileage I'm getting, but it stinks. Could over-carburetion be the source for the gas smell? I can't find a leak anywhere. Does the 67 GT500 smell like gas when you drive it? My next step is to replace the fuel filter and the needle/seats. I love the visual effects of the 2x4, but would I be better off with a sidewinder? Maybe I would be better off stepping down from 600cfm's to 450cfm's. That's a lot of money for guess work, though. For that matter, so is a new intake. |
| | RE: What carb(s) should I use? -- Geo, 10/10/2000
I'm not a serious tech head but i couldn't help but to respond. I'm running a 780cfm on my 65 390 and find that it is not over carburated so for you to step down from 600 - 450 sounds foolish.
if gas coming out of vent tubes (open hood, off with air cleaner, rev it while in park, can you see feul spewing?)on top of carb mabye check float level in carb (on holleys, should be level with bottom of threads on sight hole while engine running)
mabye accelerator pump pumping to much gas
good luck
geo |
| | | He is using 2 carbs, but I have advice still :) -- Ross, 10/11/2000
A built 428 should take 2 600's however we ran 2 450's right out the box on a 427 and MAN what a nice street motor. The new Holleys are only 170 a piece through summit, and just bolt them on they will be close.
However, if you want to check yours, put a vacuum gauge on and see what the motor holds for idle. With too much cam the vac may be low and opening the powervalve at all times.
I use manifold vacuum / 2 + .5 to pick a PV. That should lean it out if its dumping fuel. Also make sure your float level is right.
Myself I'd prefer the 2 450's on a 428, but we have done plenty, even 390's that can run good with 2 600's - Ross |
| | | | RE: He is using 2 carbs, but I have advice still :) -- Will, 10/12/2000
Thanks for the advice. I put a vacuum gauge on it. I used the large port on the throttle plate. The front carb is running 10", the back carb is running about 10.5" - 11".
I went running to the store to buy 55 power valves, but the guy at the store said my carbs came with 65's. I doubt 1" is going to make a big difference. Agree?
That made me wonder that maybe the power valve on the back carb was opening. Without the throttle plate open (progressive linkage), it was flooding. Is that why there were BJ/BK carbs? Does the back carb on the original GT-500 have a different metering block/power valve?
Perhaps I need to put a 35 or 45 power valve in the back carb. I know one option is to go to the 450's, but then I'd have to get rid of the 600's. I'd rather just make the 600's work. |
| | RE: What carb(s) should I use? -- Morgan, 10/11/2000
Keep in mind that the smell could also be comming from the gas tank. Check the seal on the cap and the vent. check your fuel line going to the tank also. On the thought of switching to a sidewinder, no way, don't do it. It will not perform better.
What kind of throttle linkage do you have? Is it progressive? What size squirters are you running the original GT-500 came with size 22's. |
| | | RE: What carb(s) should I use? -- Will, 10/11/2000
I've already checked the gas cap and all fuel lines. There aren't any leaks.
I totally forgot about the power valves. I bet that's the problem. The weird thing is that I don't smell gas if I floor it. (I smell rubber :-) ) I only smell gas at about 1/4 throttle.
I've got the progressive linkage, with box-stock Holley 600 cfm 1850's.
If I had a pile of money, I'd buy the 450's. I bought the 600's new, and I figured that the gt500 had 650's, so 600's should work fine. I still think that's the case, since they're vacuum secondaries.
Oh, and I have the Lunati #40510. Solid lifters, 237/247 @ .050, .559/.572 lift.
The gas mileage sucks! Bad! If I floor it, the needle moves about the width of the needle! The speedometer isn't hooked up yet, so I don't know exactly what mileage I'm getting.
It'll be a couple of days until I can check to vacuum/power valves. I'm moving. I'll post again once I check it out. |
| | | | GT500 smell, exhaust spit -- Dan Cundiff, 10/14/2000
The only time I get a gas smell from my car is when you really floor it for a length of time. You smell gas as you back off. I do not get a gas smell from general driving. The carbs on my car are the original 2x4 Holleys.I believe that they have stock pieces.
Until I replaced the original transverse muffler, you smelled exhaust ...all the time. It was a repro and I think it had massive leaks.
I hope this helps. Is the back of the car littered with gas or black exhaust spit marks after a spirited drive? That may be another sign of overcarbing. ie raw fuel being dumped out the back.
Just my two cents.Good luck.
Dan |
| | | | | RE: GT500 smell, exhaust spit -- Will, 10/15/2000
I've got quite a few things to tune on the car, but I'm just taking one thing at a time. For example, I recently changed from a 160 degree thermostat to a 180 deg. I'm thinking about going to a 190. Didn't Ford install a 192? I think I read that somewhere.
I noticed when I had the air cleaners off that the back carb was black, but the front was not. This leads me to believe the power valve on the back carb is opening, but the throttle blades are closed, so it's basically just filling the carb with gas.
I tried setting the idle with the back carb only. I'm talking about the screw that moves the throttle blades, not the mixture screws. This way at least some air is going through the back carb at all times. This seems to help a little, but my eyes still burn after driving slow. They don't hurt if I go freeway speeds.
Another thing to note is that I don't have a shifter boot or air conditioner installed yet. I know the fumes will be better once I plug those holes, but that will only hide the problem. The engine will still be running rich.
I'm considering putting a very low power valve (2.5") or a plug in the back carb. The only time I should be running off the back carb is during mostly full throttle, so I'd rather let the airflow suck gas through the jets instead of the power valve dribbling gas.
What the heck. If nothing else, it'll be interesting. |
| | | | | | RE: GT500 smell, exhaust spit -- Morgan, 10/16/2000
Will,
The original GT-500 came with 600's not 650's.
Check you vaccume before switching your power valves to a different size. Check for vac leaks around carbs and manifold. Does you car launch hard from a dead stop or does it back fire through the carbs? |
| | | | | | | RE: GT500 smell, exhaust spit -- Will, 10/16/2000
First of all, I still have 2.79 gears in the rear-end, so most of the time, I have to slip the clutch a little. It's a Versailles rear-end, and I haven't changed the gears yet.
From a dead stop, if I floor it, it studders, hesitates, emits a strong gas smell, and finally takes off. If I floor it when I'm going 20-30 mph, or if I pop the clutch, it spins and takes off.
I messed with the linkage a little last night. The back carb was only opening 1/4 of the way. Now it should work off the front carb for the first 1/3, then the back carb will start up. By the time the front carb is all the way open, the back carb will be too. It's hard to describe, but I moved the stud on the front carb so that it travels through a longer arc.
My idea is to have the primaries of the carbs work like a typical double pumper. To do that, I think I need to remove the power valve on the back carb, and go up a few sizes on the jets.
Surely the original GT-500 had power valves in the back carb. How did it avoid a rich condition with the progressive linkage? What appears to be happening to my car is the back carb is flooding the intake.
Oh yeah, I've checked for vacuum leaks, and I did't find any.
Thanks for the info, it helps a lot. |
| | | | | | | | RE: GT500 smell, exhaust spit -- Morgan, 10/19/2000
I am in the process of switching out my dual carb set up on my GT-500 now with a single 750cfm. My recommendation is to keep the linkage were it was. They were originally set up that way.
For the record the GT-500 came with 6.5 power valves and 66 size jets, rears had #13 metering plates and white cams. other GT-500 owners and Holly Tech center has confirmed this.
|
| | | | | | | | | RE: GT500 smell, exhaust spit -- Will, 10/19/2000
That was the info I was looking for. My carbs have #66 jets. I'm not sure what metering plates or pump cams they have. It's whatever is stock for an 1850. I know it's the wrong thing to do, but I've got a power valve plug in the back carb for now. That stopped the gas smell, but as expected, it studders now.
I already put the linkage back like Ford/Shelby did it. The only thing was that I had to mess with it a little to get the back carb to open all the way.
I have an Edelbrock O-2 sensor I plan on installing. It is supposed to help zero in on carb settings. I figure I'll leave the carb alone until I install the sensor. Then I'll go about it the proper way instead of guessing.
If I was running the stock cam, it would probably make sense to just use the stock carb settings, but I know I've changed everything with this cam. I'll post another message once I get the thing tuned.
BTW, why are you going to a 750?
thx |
| | | | | | | | | | RE: The reason for the 750 -- Morgan, 10/19/2000
The 428 has 104K original miles on it. It has low vac, and tired. But the main reason is that the carbs need full restoration, the carb body might be warped detecting vac leaks as well as gas leaks. Its too valuable a car to see it catch fire. This is a short term solution until I can pull the motor and do a complete rebuild which includes sending the carbs to holley to be restored. |
| | | | | | | | | | | RE: The reason for the 750 -- Will, 10/19/2000
That's a relief. I knew you said it ran better with 2x4's instead of a sidewinder, but I was wondering why you were switching to a 750.
It's nice to know you're taking such good care of such a special car.
|
| Torque spec help needed -- Jim, 10/09/2000
Can someone send me the torque specs and torque sequence for the cylinder head bolts and exhaust manifold bolts for a 67 Mustang 200ci six cylinder? Thanks for any assitance. |
| | No Ford shop manual handy? I'll look, later [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/10/2000
n/m |
| | Head, (center-out) 55-65-75 #/ft; exhaust (1 step) 13-18 #/ft [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/10/2000
n/m |
| 67 S-code Fastback -- John Evans, 10/09/2000
I am looking for a GT 390 motor for my Mustang. I had heard that there were no 390's cast in 67 and that Ford used leftover 66's for the Mustang. Does anyone know if this is true? Does anyone have a lead on a complete motor? Obviously I need the correct casting number for my model and year. |
| | '67 castings do exist; tried our Classifieds?[n/m] -- Mr F, 10/10/2000
n/m |
|