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 |  White Smoke Problem -- Prof. A., 09/29/2000
I have a 390 block (Now a 406) which emits white smoke, and plenty of it, from just the drivers side bank of cylinders. Once the motor warms up the smoke stops, but it still runs way too hot (@220) and I have to shut it down. I have noticed on some head gaskets that proper placement (front or back) is indicated on the gasket, while others offer no assistance. Shouldn't the larger water passage hole always be oriented toward the front of the engine? The other water passage hole is small (the size of a small nail hole). I would appreciate any help. |
|  | RE: White Smoke Problem -- martin edridge, 09/29/2000
If the head gaskets have either a smaller opening or no opening at one end, that end should be at the front of the block. The idea is to route the water from the pump to the back of the block, up into the heads at the rear of the engine then back along the heads to the front, where it returns to the rad. If you have the (bigger) holes at the front, the water goes straight back up to the front of the engine without circulating round the back to carry away the heat- instant problem! Don't know about your white smoke, but it's starting to get cool here now, so could it just be condensation (steam)? Sort out the head gaskets first then see how the 'smoke' situation looks. HTH
Cheers, Martin. |
|  | RE: White Smoke Problem -- Larry Tiemann, 09/29/2000
Normaly the white smoke is water vapor. Before You pull the heads and change the head gaskets to have the blockoff in the front,check the source of the water by,when it is smoking pull the coil wire and turn the engine over about 3-4 times on the starter and then pull the spark plugs out and bump the electrode end against you hand and see if you get water. Where you do is where the water is getting into the engine (which cylinder)pull the heads and look real close at the gasket for water marks and also since it has been bored so much check the cylinder for cracks or mold imperfections on the cylinder walls. |
 | Timing Question -- Rod Mauldin, 09/29/2000
I have a 62 galaxie x 352 2v. I just recently rebuilt the engine. Ever since I got the car in 1984 and after being rebuilt. When I set the timing to slightly advanced the engine runs rough. "Rough" being when holding the throttle at a steady speed (above idle) it sort of spits.This is especially noticeable when standing at the rear of the car and listening to the exhaust. If I lower the timing to normal or slightly below normal. It doesn't do this.However it bogs down when you accelerate. So to get proper acceleration I must set the timing on the high side. Does anybody have a clue as to what is causing this? I was wondering if it might be a problem in the dual advance distributor.
Thanks! |
| tunnel port 427 rocker arm shaft assembly -- Maximus, 09/29/2000
i am in the process of building a tunnel port 427 i have a single 4 barrel tunnel port intake, side oiler, etc. but i don't have the cylinder heads. my question since these type of heads are typically bought bare. is do you need a special type of rocker arm shaft? is it wider? i also am planning to cram this FE into my 89 mustang Coupe. any constructive critizism? |
| FE Pulleys -- TheFonz, 09/28/2000
Are all FE pulleys basically the same. I know that some are for P/S,A/C, smog etc., but are there differences between CJ and other FEs.
The Fonz |
| | In any given model year, pulleys are usually shared [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/30/2000
n/m |
| What are these heads? -- Doug, 09/26/2000
Found a pair of bare cyl heads cast #C8OE-N. What would they have been original equip on? What is the correct part #? Any ideas re: Ford's last published price? Thanks! Doug at djjsc@juno.com |
| | You got some 428CJ heads. -- Dave Shoe, 09/26/2000
Good stuff, and at a good price.
They are correct on 428CJ and 428SCJ motors.
Shoe. |
| | Application 428CJ/SCJ; last p/n C8OZ-6049-K [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/26/2000
n/m |
| C7me-a. 390?. -- Daniel D., 09/26/2000
I got the motor w/2v intake and C8AE-H heads....don't know what it came out of.The casting number suggests a 428....but a 2v 428?I've been told it was a 390 and a 428 but, nobody seems to know for sure.Any ides?Any help appreciated.Thank you. |
|  | RE: C7me-a. 390?. -- scott, 09/26/2000
The easiset way to determine what you have would be to pull a spark plug and measure the stroke with a dowel rod. If its around 3.79 its a 390. If its 3.98 its a 428 or 410. Ford casting #'s can often be misleading. Often the only way to determine what you have is to measure. By the way if you do have the 3.98 stroke the bore sizes are 4.13 for the 428 and 4.05 for the 410.I have a set of the C8AE-H heads that come on my stock 390 2V. This seems to be a fairly common passenger car casting#. Odds are that you have a 390 2V but you could have hit paydirt with a 410 or 428. |
| engine ID help -- Mike, 09/25/2000
I have been trying to ID my engine, It has 428 intake and exhaust manifolds on it, The date code on the block is Jan.29th 1969,... can't find any casting numbers on the block.The heads are cast C8 AE-H. I measured the stroke with a wooden dowel
(thru a spark plug hole) and as best i can tell it came out to be 3 13/16 (3.812) which i see on the resourse page is too short for a 428 and a little too long for a 390? ANY ideas????
Thanks for any responses! |
| | Maybe a typical "mix-n-match" FE; what's on the intake? [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/26/2000
n/m |
| | | RE: Maybe a typical "mix-n-match" FE; what's on the intake? [n/m] -- Mike, 09/26/2000
Number on intake is C8OE 9425-C...428 CJ... |
| | | | Interesting. But w/o more cast/stamped IDs, I'm sunk. [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/01/2000
n/m |
| | | | | RE: another casting number -- Mike, 10/02/2000
Not another number on the block ,but this is on the water pump and i haven't been able to ID it!
C8 AE 8505-B......any help? |
| | | | Try pulling the R/H, center freeze plug - look for cast ID [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/02/2000
n/m |
| | | | | Any help on water pump? -- Mike, 10/03/2000
Any help in the ID of the water pump? Is it for a 390 or a 428? (or both?) |
| | | | | | Pretty much all '68 FE pumps are the same [n/m] -- Mr F, 10/04/2000
n/m |
| | | | | | | RE: Threaded bolt holes -- Mike, 10/17/2000
Was wondering...while looking for casting numbers I see 2 threaded bolt holes in the block on the passenger side just above the oil pan....did all FE's have these? I knew 427's and 428's did ? but 390's? |
| Motor mounts fit with proud screw-in freeze plugs? -- FE428, 09/25/2000
When threading the block to accept screw-in plugs, the threads weren't made deep enough. Consequently, the plugs protrude slightly from the face of the block. Will this interfere with the motor mounts on a '68 Fairlane?
Thanks! |
| | RE: Motor mounts fit with proud screw-in freeze plugs? -- Travis Miller, 09/25/2000
If they do, a disc grinder on the protruding plugs will cure the problem. |
| Upgrade to 390 and -?- transmission...? -- Jay, 09/24/2000
I have a '59 Edsel with a 332 (F)ord/(E)dsel mated to a 2-speed Fordomatic. This won't do to tow a 16-foot vintage Shasta trailer. I want to upgrade to a 390 (easy 'nuff) but am not sure which transmission to go with. I hear that the C6 will require modifying the crossmember mount and shortening the driveshaft, and that the C6 is certainly hefty enough to do the job. But, what about a C4? What are the key differences between the two? Will the C4 mount up better? Or, is there a tranny that I haven't considered yet?
Oh...I hear that I need to get a post-1970 390 to get the best version of that displacement. True?
Thanks! |
| | RE: Upgrade to 390 and -?- transmission...? -- Lou, 09/24/2000
I don't see why the engine and trans (with a trans cooler) would not tow the trailer, if you change the rear gear and start in low gear then shift into drive. A C-4 is the same trans you have with a different valve body so the trans starts in first.
The rear end gear you have is a 2.69 and this car would have touble towing anything with that gear. Try something between 3.50 and 3.90. |
| | | RE: Upgrade to 390 and -?- transmission...? -- terry, 09/24/2000
the c-4 is diffrent then the c6, the c4 is a small case that bolts to the 302 and 351w.
It is the same inside as the c6 but in asmaller case.
You should think about putting a 351w in the car, it is a easy swap.
terry |
| | | RE: Upgrade to 390 and -?- transmission...? -- Jay, 09/24/2000
Lou - thanks for the input. The 332 displacement on the FE is known to be a bit anemic on HP. The wagon that I have currently has a 3.56 rear end, and I have a parts car with a 3.70, so rear end ratios shouldn't be a problem.
Is it true that the aluminum case 2-speed Fordomatic is the same as the C4? This could be a good thing...if I could use a tranny with the same case and gain a third drive gear...almost necessary for towing.
As for the engine - I just don't want to get caught with too little power, and everyone praises the 390 as being the best combo of power and mileage.
Another option I have to me would to mix & match blocks and cranks I have on hand to build a 352. Can anyone give any good/bad feedback on that idea?
Thanks again!
Jay |
| | | | 332 -- Lou, 09/27/2000
The first car I drove was my fathers 58 Ford Fairlane 500 with a 332 and a Ford-o-matic, he had the car 12 years and 150,000 miles so I can't say anything bad about the 332 or the Ford-0
Why don't you look for a cruise-o-matic 58 to 64 from a FE powered Ford. This should be a easy swap. See how it pulls, if you need more power go to the 3.70 gears. |
| | | | | Re: 332 -- Jay, 09/27/2000
Thanks again...all good ideas that I will consider. I ran into a complete '64 Ford wagon with the Thunderbird 390 and what he said is a C4 tranny. Would that be a correct tranny for that year? It sounds like you think I should simply stick with the 332 and aluminum Fordomatic 2-speed. I guess it will do, but is it a preferred option? Again, although I won't be towing often with it, when I do I don't want a cooked tranny or anemic power. |
| | | | RE: Upgrade to 390 and -?- transmission...? -- Paul, 09/27/2000
Jay: There's a web site that say's you can boar your 352 block out to 4.05, put in a 390 crank and have a 390 or put in a 428 crank and have a 410. The 352 main webbings aren't as strong as the 390's. You'll also need the right heigth pistons. I'm no expert and I've never done this myself, but I thought you might like to read this.
http://www.gessford.com/images/FordMuscleStory.htm
You can also learn from Steve Christ's book Big-Block Ford Engines.Still Learning- Paul |
| | | | | RE: Upgrade to 390 and -?- transmission...? -- Jay, 09/27/2000
Paul-
I have Steve Christ's book - very, very helpful! I have two 332 blocks (4.00 inch bore) and an Edsel 361 block (4.05 bore). I can use the 361 crank (3.50 stroke) and put it in the 332 block for a 352. What I don't have is a 390 crank, which would drop into my 361 block and make a 390 engine (with me so far?).
But, I hear that the earlier FE block castings are not preferred. They were subtly reinforced over the years, and oil passages were improved, etc. so that the later FE blocks are the way to go if you want an engine that will last. To save money and use up parts I have, I was considering creating a 352 or 390 for my wagon (or, I could Frankenstein my disassembled 361 back to life). Final engine choice is not my most critical issue right now, because any FE I put in there will fit, and will look stock if painted right. I am really clueless about transmissions. The stock 2-speed Fordo just doesn't seem the best choice for economy, durability or towing capacity. Is there ANY reasonable, easy replacement for it, besides the Cruisomatics available at the time? They don't have a good rep, but the C6 (and the C4?) do.
i just need some clarification here.
Thanks,
Jay |
| | | | | | Trans fail because of heat. -- Lou, 09/28/2000
No matter what trans you use put a trans cooler on it the bigger the better. I have a 4 cyl Mustang that I have put a trans cooler on, it just extends the life of the trans. (and change the fluid and filter every 25,000 miles) |
| | | | | | | RE: Trans fail because of heat. -- Richard Bouman, 09/28/2000
Jay, Put a C-6 in and be done with it. You can use all off the shelf parts except the crossmember mod.
I just did this on my '63 Galaxie, lots better than the "Cruzo". |
| | | | | | | | RE: Trans fail because of heat. -- d c, 10/04/2000
jay first off i would like to say going to a 351w
is not the way.richard has the idea c-6 and be
done with it.If you want the 410 idea you can buy
pistons for a 75 or 76 pickup 390 motor and they will be the right hight.they were known as smog
motors and they put the short pistons in to drop the compression. as for boreing 050 over it can be
done but you need the block tested for sleve shift any good machine shop can do this.also a good running 352 is no sloutch i have 1 in a 66 fairlane and it performes very well. also fe stands for ford engain not edesel .good luck
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| 289 hipo identify help -- Tom May, 09/22/2000
Have left front block number 5C1Z Have carb number C5ZF K Where to find correct ID location and what do these numbers mean? |
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