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 |  Rear end help -- tyroncooley, 09/18/2000
I need to know if a 68 mustang rear end will fit a 66 mustang and will the 66 axels and every thing else will fit into the 68 housing please help..... |
|  | RE: Rear end help -- Ross, 09/20/2000
67-70 is wider than 65-66. I am not sure if an entire 67-70 would work with offset wheels, but the axles between 65-66 and 67-70 will not interchange.
However, a Lincoln Versailles is almost a bolt in, and proper width for a 65-66, maybe an option if you want a 9 inch |
 | 390 rebuild/build-up advice wanted (long) -- J. Robb, 09/17/2000
I am going to start gathering parts for the engine rebuild of my 390 "IP", which belongs to my 69 Cougar XR7. I am planning on doing basically a stock rebuild with a mild cam. This is the one I was looking at: Crane Powermax CRA-343971.. intake lift/duration at .05 is .469/192
exhaust lift/duration at .05 is .501/204, and the lobe separtation is 114. I would also get the crane recommended lifters and springs it lists with this cam. Does this sound like a good cam to unleash a little extra potential from this engine, but still have vacuum and have a fair idle? Should I also get the retainers they recommend, or reuse my old ones? I plan to get new valves also. If my cylinders arn't tapered, I am not going to bore it, which hopefully is the case. But is it recommended to reuse my pistons and rods if I don't bore? For rings, should I bother with cro-moly, or just get the regular ones? I plan to use the original carb (4300) and s-code intake. Should I have a machine shop put in new cam bearings? Speaking of machine shops, is there anything I should definately have done besides hardened valve seats and a balance? Lastly, is there a company out there that makes block hugger headers that require NO modifications that fit this car? I know the exhaust is probably the biggest restriction, if all else fails, i'll put the stock system back on with some flowmasters.. I really need exhaust advice, maybe some polish work on exhaust side of the heads? All in all, what kind of ballpark figures would you think I'd be able to get from what i've listed for torque and HP?
Thanks for reading all that! |
| | forgot one thing... -- J. Robb, 09/17/2000
Is there a company out there that makes roller tipped rocker arms for FE's? The only ones I find are regular, adjustable ones. Why would you want adjustable rocker arms with a hydraulic cam?
I will also probably use a roller timing chain.. this engine will probably not see over 5000 RPMs, and won't be excessively beaten on. Thanks again |
| |  | See posts on 9/3/00 - Machine shop advice... -- Craig Nelson, 09/19/2000
Hi J: Some of your questions might be answered in the responses received to my 9/3/00 post "Machine shop advice for 428 FE rebuild?". I ordered the suggested books from Amazon and they have provided a wealth of FE information and good bathroom reading as well. Good luck with your rebuild. - Craig |
| | | RE: forgot one thing... -- Jim Raymond, 09/22/2000
Harland-Sharp makes roller rocker arms for the FE at $319.99, look in Summit's catalog, May-June 2000, page 58. |
| | | | RE: forgot one thing... -- d c, 10/04/2000
dove man. also makes roller tip rockers and many
other fe goodies good luck
they are in ohio someware but i cant remember where |
| |  | RE: forgot one thing... -- antperros, 10/16/2000
comp cams makes aluminum roller rockers for Fe's about $280 from P.A.W. there the only ones I've found when i built up my Fe. Shelby makes some but they are probably no good and cost about $1200 |
| | | | RE: forgot one thing... -- Will, 10/16/2000
I bought some of the Shelby rocker arms. I didn't know any others existed. Okay, I figured there might be others out there, but I didn't know anyone to ask about quality. That was before I knew this forum existed!
The arms look great. They came with shafts, stands, etc. BUT, they were shipped with bolts that were too short. I didn't notice they were short, and I put them on my brand-new-still-smelled-like-styrofoam Edelbrock heads. Pop! went the heli-coil. I got pissed, but all I had to do was run to the store and buy longer grade-8 bolts plus a new heli-coil. 30 minutes later I was rockin'.
Other than that, the arms/shafts/etc. look like they'd live on a NASCAR engine. I don't work in a machine shop or anything, but I've seen my share of engines.
All things considered, I would pay $200 or so extra for the Shelby name/reputation, but if it's $500 more, I'd buy from any other big name. |
| | RE: 390 rebuild/build-up advice wanted (long) -- KarlJay, 10/19/2000
That cam sounds a little small, I've had good luck running a Crower with 214/224 @.50 and .524/.537 lift. The heads will benefit from exhaust porting in the bowl and removing the hump at the top of the ports. Harland Sharp rockers have a great rep and are a fair price. Have the machine shop install new bearings and check the pistons and bore to see if they can be reused. Crome rings will show little benefit. With a good set of headers and 9.5:1 CR and a good cam I would expect about 350HP and 420+ Torque. The exhaust is usually a good place to focus, most FE exhuasts need help. |
| Unleaded Valve Seats? -- jeff, 09/17/2000
Anyone know how to tell if rebuilt 390 heads have unleaded valve seats installed?
Thanks! |
| family engine list -- wrench, 09/17/2000
Any one can tell me the address of the site where all engine family are listed? Don't find them any more!!!!!
thank Wrench |
| 390 2v heads on a 428? -- scott, 09/16/2000
Can anyone tell me whether there is any real differance in port size and valves on my C8AE-H 390 2V heads and the regular passenger car 428 heads? Every book I've got lists the C8AE-H under a differant application. Unfortunatly I snapped a rod bolt while putting in new bearings today. (Thank you mister new Craftsman torque wrench!). While I could pull the head, fish out the rod and put in new bolts. I think that it would be better to take my collection of swap meet 428 parts down to the machine shop and just replace the 3902V with a fresh 428. This car will be used for towing on the interstate so upper midrange power is important. If the C8AE heads are also correct for the passenger car 428 I will have them rebuilt and use them. |
| | Its a somewhat restricted head, but kosher on a 428 [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/18/2000
n/m |
| Another engine ID -- Mike, 09/15/2000
Still trying to find out what engine I have!
I have 428CJ intake and exhaust manifold on it.the heads appear to be "generic"~~ 360,390,or 428! (C8 AE-H)....Was looking at the block last night ,didn't find any casting numbers ...but did notice two bolt holes on passenger side ~~above oil pan. I know 428's had those..did 390's? |
| | RE: Another engine ID -- scott, 09/16/2000
my 67 station wagon has the 68AE-H heads and as far as know its never been apart. engine is 390 2V |
| | RE: Another engine ID -- Ed Foral, 09/16/2000
Mike
Many 428, 390 and 360 blocks had no casting part numbers, only a date code.
You can try looking in your spark plug holes at your pistons. If they are flat top, then they are not factory 428 pistons which had a small dish in the center.
You can try using a thin plastic rod in a spark plug hole to check the stroke.
When all else fails, pull the pan and check the crank and/or pull a head and check the bore/stroke.
Ed |
| Expert Help I.D. please... -- jeff, 09/14/2000
Wow what a wealth of info. I just found this site, new to FE's. Have following parts and need to ID what they are for and do they work together:
Cast on Block are 352, C5AE, DIF, a few other #s on block are A, 4G8, WI, and 6 as well as 4015E.
Cast on head are C4AE 6090G, DIF, 47, 4F18.
On crank are 10, 10, 39, 40, H, 2U.
On Cam are 2and upside-down U, orange band on one end, yellow band on other.
Rocker arm assy mounts are C4AE 6531C
Am wondering if these add up to a 390 i can drop in my 65 bird while i rebuild the original engine over the winter. Thanks in advance! Jeff |
| | Yep, C5AE-A + C4AE-G + 2U = 1965 390 :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/17/2000
n/m |
| 68 390 into a 63 f250 -- Eric, 09/14/2000
I need info and imput on practicality, links, everything you all got.
I have a 68 f250 2wd auto (c-6) with a 390. The motor was rebuilt many many years ago (but only about 55K miles), runs very strong, and has great oil pressure. The problem I have with this motor is that it leaks oil from the rear main seal. Not alot, if I park it I will find a lil puddle waiting for me when I return. I've been told this leaking problem is "uncurable" with FE's. Is there a remedy?
Next problem is I just bought a 63 f250 4x4 4 spd with a y-block motor. I am sure y-block motors are...OK...but I have had the FE for a while, its nicely built, and runs like a top. What would be involved in transplanting my FE into my 63 f250 4x4?
and lastly....I am having a hell of a time getting technical info on my 63 f250 4x4. If anyone know a link or two or three it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you all very much in advance.
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| | yep...this is my bailiwick -- Stock Man, 09/17/2000
The leaking problem is not "incurable" unlike a few Harley's I've seen. :-) It will require a new seal and inspection of your crank to make sure the seal surface is not damaged or worn beyond the minimum specs.
You can transplant the FE into the 63, but you'll have to find a front mount set-up for that engine. Ford used them in 65 FE equipped 4x4's and the F350's.
As for the 63, there are many people out there with knowledge, but no one person I know has spilled their guts in anyone place or otherwise committed the requisite resources to post it all in user friendly html format. I hope this helps.
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| Welcome to our "new & improved" forums! (please read) -- Mr F, 09/14/2000
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Have you noticed the
forum is a bit "zippier" than before?
For a long time, we've
had sporadic - often daily - problems with system bog. Believe me when I
say that we were at least as frustrated as you. After awhile, it became
apparent the slowdowns were purely a function of demand coupled with our
use of standard MS Access DB functions.
Of course, we knew something had to be done. We want this to be the best place for sharing information, right? Unfortunately, computer
upgrades take time, money and lots of planning. So, we proceeded slowly
and began by relocating to a more reliable (and co-operative) hosting
server.
But it wasn't until
yesterday that we made the big change: porting the DBs to a separate, SQL
server. It now handles all the Forum pages, plus the
Classic Ford
Classifieds and our online NOS Parts
Inventory . And I think you'll agree this has made a significant improvement in response times.
Of course, we still have
some minor wrinkles to iron out. Still, I'm confident we've made the right
choice and I think demand-based slowdowns are a thing of the past. Please
let us know if you have any questions or problems, either by posting it
here or by using our
Feedback link, below.
Thanks for sticking with us through the process. And special thanks to Joe Oliphant, the other half of "we" at FoMoCo.com. He put in lots of time doing the grunt work - getting the code switched over and then setting up the SQL DBs....and did it without grousing. Thanks a bunch, Joe. :-)
Mr F
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| C6 tranny -- Ryan, 09/13/2000
Anyone out there know anything about the C6 Transmissions? I have a '74 F-100 390 & C6. This is my second C6 in about 10 months! What gives? Anything I can do to prevent problems or fix it better? I've heard they are a problem filled tranny!? |
| | RE: C6 tranny -- T1M, 09/13/2000
strange, I had a C-6 put on my 68' Galaxie that has a 390 3 years ago. It originally had an FMX that was problematic so I swapped to my present tranny off of a Thunderbird and I've never had any problems. They're supposed to be highly reliable from what I've heard. they're called "bulletproof" tranmissions. Maybe you got a bum rebuild job?? Wish I could be more helpful |
| | | RE: C6 tranny -- Buddy, 09/13/2000
T1M is right. The C-6 and the chrysler 727 are generally regaurded as two of the best heavy-duty automatics every built. Maybe you should change tranny shops not trannys. |
| | | | RE: C6 tranny -- Ryan, 09/13/2000
Yup! I was thinking the same thing after the attitudes those guys had, but I had heard from other people that the C6 was problematic. This is getting exspensive! I'm going to make sure it's done right this time! I'll respond with any results! Thanks for both of your time! |
| | | | | RE: C6 tranny -- terry, 09/14/2000
Ryan the c6 is one of the best trans out there it is the same as a c4 that is in the mustangs the trans are basicly the same using a smallcase for the c4 |
| | RE: C6 tranny -- Mark Lamport, 09/19/2000
Have you checked your radiator? I have seen this happen before and the radiator was restricted which cause the tranny to heat and go bad. |
| | | RE: C6 tranny -- martin edridge, 09/19/2000
Mark is right about the heat. I used to have to rebuild my C6's about every year until I plumbed in the original rad trans cooler in addition to the add-on trans oil cooler, which I had previously thought to be enough for the job. It's common knowledge that heat is a major enemy of auto transmissions. Built right and cared for properly, a C6 should last for many years unless maybe fitted to a fire-breathing big-block racecar. HTH
Cheers, Martin. |
| | | | RE: C6 tranny -- Mark Lamport, 09/19/2000
On the new 4.6 engines they have separated engine cooling and transmission cooling. They have a separate radiator sandwiched between the radiator and the a/c condenser. On one side there are connections for the auto trans and on the other side is connections for your power steering. |
| | | | | RE: C6 tranny -- Ryan, 09/19/2000
Radiator plumbing...Hey! Now that's a damn good thought there! I didn't think of that...I'll check it out this week end! Thanks for the help guys! |
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