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 |  Mercury "Lightning" Valve Covers -- COUGAR, 09/13/2000
I recently saw an advertisement for "Power By Mercury" valve covers, with a lightning bolt embossed under the words. This sounds suspicious to me.
Were there ever any OEM chromed "Powered by Mercury" w/embossed lightning bolt, valve covers?
COUGAR |
|  | RE: Mercury "Lightning" Valve Covers -- Alan C., 09/13/2000
I have a pair of FE valve covers with "Mercury" written in script and lightning bolt underneath. They are of the pentroof variety and are pretty cool looking. I think they came out on the 65-66 full sized Mercurys. I had them on my first 66 Galaxie for along time and when I finally had to sell it for financial reasons I made sure I kept those valve covers! |
| |  | addition -- Alan C., 09/13/2000
Oh yeah, they don't say"power by Mercury" just
"Mercury". |
| |  | Oops! You're right -- COUGAR, 09/13/2000
Rechecked & found my mistake! It's just Mercury & the thunderbolt.
Is the "Mercury" + thunderbolt an OEM Mercury valve cover?
COUGAR |
| | Far as I see, only plain ones (no embossing) were chromed [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/13/2000
n/m |
| | RE: Mercury "Lightning" Valve Covers -- bobbycurtis, 09/14/2000
i have a set from my 66 cyclone that are chrome and have an emblem riveted on top that says mercury cyclone on it it all looks original to me |
| | | RE: Mercury "Lightning" Valve Covers -- joe ligon, 09/18/2000
you wouldn't want to get rid of those covers would you? if you do let me know i'm gathering parts for my 66 cyclone gt conv. its got the original flat top chrome valve covers but never had the emblems.
thanks,
joe |
| | |  | RE: Mercury "Lightning" Valve Covers -- joe ligon, 09/18/2000
oh i'll add my two bits on the lightning bolt covers. i've got an orange set off a 65 merc 390 and a blue set off a 66 merc 410.
joe |
| | | RE: Mercury "Lightning" Valve Covers -- Scott, 09/19/2000
Yeah I got a set of lightning bolt covers also. This is what I've heard about these valve covers, some of this may be urban legand though.There were suposedly 3 variations. 1) Plain embossed painted steel. These were supossedly put on the 410 maurader motors at the factory to differentiate them from the 390. I've also seen many, many of these in orange enemal paint. But I dont know if this a factory color or someones "tastefull" customizing 2) Plain chrome plate. I have seen several pairs of these at the columbus swap meet over the years, last fall when I questined a seller he replied they were of a 66 S55 merc he had stripped out years back. 3) Black wrinkle paint with chrome script and and chrome lightning bolts. This pair was n.o.s. with the origanal but completely trashed Ford (Mercury) box. Seller claimed that they were a dealer accesary part for Parklanes that was sold over the counter in 1964. Boy would these look stiking with the oval aircleaner. Hope this information helps, Also I just got a 65-74 merc parts book and if I can come up with part#s for any of these I will post them if there is interest. |
| | RE: Mercury "Lightning" Valve Covers -- Maximus, 09/29/2000
i have a set of chrome lightning valve covers they have been sitting for the past 6 months. they look original to me. |
| | | RE: Mercury "Lightning" Valve Covers -- Paul Drinkall, 10/01/2000
> i have a set of chrome lightning valve covers they have been sitting for
> the past 6 months. they look original to me.
Lightning covers came on all big Mercs. They were orange in 1965, blue in 66. They went to the rounded "powered by Ford in 67 I believe. I have 2 pair of chromed lightning bolts that I had chromed. The only factory chromed pentroof covers were the plain ones that came on the 427. |
| '67 -'68 Mustang/Cougar Motor Mounts? -- COUGAR, 09/13/2000
Are the '67 & '68 Mustang/Cougar FE motor mounts interchangeable? Just to be correct, what are the P/N's for each year?
Both the '67 & '68 shop manuals are no help. Also motor mounts are not listed in the Auto Interchange Systems, '63-'74 manual.
Thanx!
COUGAR |
| Transmission questions. -- Russ Schell, 09/12/2000
My 17 year-old has a '66 LTD with the 352 4-barrel. Not sure what transmission model. (I'm not as technical as you guys.) It's your basic 3 speed automatic. Car has 89,000 miles on it. Last week the transmission began to slip a bit. It's always has a small leak and we were advised by the repair shop to put some of that stuff that's supposed to expand the seals and slow or stop the leak. This weekend the transmission didn't want to shift into third gear. It would shift if you started in low, then shifted manually into third. We took it to the local shop and, my son just called with the news that, "the transmission is shot." $800 for "the cheapest one" plus $100 to install.
Any advice on this?
P.S. - He doesn't beat the car. He drives it daily to school and he's working to restore it to an original condition so he can take it to some local car shows.
Thanks in advance. |
| | Look out. -- Lou, 09/12/2000
On the side of the trans is a vacuum line, this line goes into a modulator. On the end of the modulator is a 3/4 inch nut. Turning the nut will remove the modulator, go to a parts store and buy a new one, about $20.00. Replace the modulator and reconnect he vacuum line (if the line is off the modulator when you went to remove it there is a 95% chance that this is the problem) The trans should work fine. Let me know how you make out. If this solves the problem (I think it will) the trans shop that told you you need a new trans was out to vacuum your wallet! |
| | | RE: Look out. -- Russ Schell, 09/14/2000
Thanks Lou. I've learned more about this great old car by reading posts on this website from hellpful, and well-informed, folks like you than I could ahve learned in twenty years of talking to guys at parts stores and repair shops. Someday I'll post a picture of the car. It's very, very nice!
Best Regards,
Russ |
| | | RE: Look out. -- terry, 09/14/2000
If the trans is slipping, then you have more problems then just a modular. check the screen and fluid, if the fluid is brown in color then it is posable that you need a rebuild. I assume the car has the orignal cruiesomatic in it. |
| | | | RE: Look out. -- Russ, 09/16/2000
It's not that it's slipping. The opposite. It's refusing to upshift unless done manually. Starting out in L, then moving the shifter to the Drive position at about 15 miles per hour works. |
| | | | | Now I'm positive it is the modulator ! -- Lou, 09/16/2000
Now I'm positive it is the modulator, I have had this happen on 4 or 5 cars in the past. When you replace the modulator remember to connect the vacuum line. |
| | | | | | RE: Now I'm positive it is the modulator ! -- Russ, 09/16/2000
Lou,
We got into it today. Dropped the pan (all 14 greasy bolts) and cleaned the filter. New fluid, bottle of Trans-Medic too. The modulator looks almost brand new. Still shiny and brassy just like the one we bought. I didn't put the new one on figuring that the shop that worked on it a few weeks ago (to stop a leak) must have replaced it. I guess it's possible that the "new" modulator is not working or it's the incorrect one but that seems highly unlikely. Any other ideas?
Thanks. |
| | | | RE: Look out. -- Russ, 09/16/2000
The fluid is very brown. Even the new fluid we put it today was brown almost immediately after driving it for twenty minutes or so. |
| | | | | Oh boy! -- Lou, 09/16/2000
Russ, I think you have done about all you can. I would sugest you talk to several transmissions shops. I sorry that it is not a simple fix. |
| | | | | RE: Look out. -- Alan C., 09/16/2000
When you drained the fluid did you drain the torque convertor also? It holds 4 or 5 quarts and if you did not drain it, your fluid would get brown immediatly. As far as the shifting problem goes I'll ask a dumb question. Is the kickdown linkage still hooked to the carb and is the kickdown return still hooked up? If it is off and the linkage has fell down, it will only shift automatically at a very high speed. |
| part #, tough one... -- Dale, 09/11/2000
I'm looking to change over my '67 Fairlane GTA from column shifted C-6 to floor shift. I've accumulated all the "stock" parts except the shift lever attached to the C-6. I've also located a trans shop with several levers, one of which should be the right one. Can anyone put a part number to this part? Thanks!!! |
| | RE: part #, tough one... -- T1M, 09/11/2000
well, I'm just an amateur compared to all of you as far as giving advice, but I distinctly remember an article about this very project on the Ford Galaxie Club of America. Check it out. |
| Starter Delay Relay? -- COUGAR, 09/10/2000
Can someone explain why Ford thought it was necessary to put a starter delay relay on FE Shelbys? The P/N is: C8AF-11A126-A. Until today, I'd never heard of this.
COUGAR |
| | TSB 1435 says it prevents starter/flywheel damage [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/11/2000
n/m |
| | | How would it prevent damage? -- COUGAR, 09/11/2000
It seems to me that the starter must engage the flywheel sometime, Why would delaying the event, make ANY difference?
COUGAR |
| | | | Re-engagement in motion might strip teeth? [n/m] -- Mr F, 09/11/2000
n/m |
| | | | | THANKS! for the help! -- COUGAR, 09/13/2000
When I read about this, I thought it was to delay the starter, when you First tried to start the car, and that made No 1968 sense.
Preventing starter RE-ingagement, probably saved more than a few "Boy Friends" flywheels/flexplates!
COUGAR |
| ID needed for FE -- Rick Croom, 09/10/2000
I need to ID this FE for a friend of mine.
Heads= 8090G C4AE
Block= C6ME-A
Thanks for your help. |
| ram air option -- truck, 09/09/2000
Were there other engines offered with ram air option in the 69 Failane besides the 428CJ? There seems to be some question on 390's. |
| Heater Core R&R for '66 Galaxie with A/C? -- Craig Nelson, 09/09/2000
Has anyone had the apparently daunting experience of replacing the heater core on a '66 Galaxie with air conditioning? My 7-litre hard top is dripping coolant from behind the front passenger wheel well at a good rate and last week I opened the fresh air vent and got a good whiff of antifreeze. I surmise that the problem stems either from the hose connections or more likely the heater core (given the location of the leak).
My vintage greasy-fingerprint-stained Ford shop manual illustrates the procedure for non-air conditioned cars well enough, but glosses over heater core R&R on the a/c versions by simply noting the heater core is tucked up under the fender. “Under the fender” is an understatement, hell I had to get a flashlight and stand on my head to even see where the hoses disappeared.
I can see no way to access either the hoses or remove the core, short of pulling off the front passenger side fender. Anyone ever complete this task without resulting to the brute force method of disassembling the fender or dash?
Not exactly an FE block question, but it seems you guys know your vintage Fords and perhaps someone knows the elegant solution. Thanks!
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| | RE: Heater Core R&R for '66 Galaxie with A/C? -- Gary, 09/10/2000
Yeah if it is like my 67 galaxie (390 factory 4 spd) which I think it is. You will have to pull the front fender off to do the core. Well I could tell you how to do it without pulling the fender. My 67 galaxie was notorius about literaly exploding the heater core.I replaced it for about every 12 to 18 mos before I gave it up and said no more.I was running 390 in it then pushing about 425 hrs. Now it has a 427 stroked to 454 ,14 to 1 compression so I know the core wouls not last long with this motor.
Good luck and have fun! |
| | | RE: Heater Core R&R for '66 Galaxie with A/C? -- Bill, 09/11/2000
I have removed the bolts from the inner fender around the wheel lip, pulled it down and replaced the heater coreI did not have to remove the fender. Get some to hold down while you do this. Bill |
| | | | RE: Heater Core R&R for '66 Galaxie with A/C? -- Mark Lamport, 09/19/2000
Bill is right, you don't have to pull the fender.
When I replaced mine, I took the right front wheel off and then cut a square hole in the inner fender to replace. Then I pop riveted the hole shut and sealed. |
| | | | | RE: Heater Core R&R for '66 Galaxie with A/C? -- Bill, 09/19/2000
After you have installed new heater core be sure and put a good bed of 3M bedding compound across the top of the heater core shroud or your right floor pan will rust out. Bill |
| Correct plugs for a '69 428 CJ??? -- Gary, 09/08/2000
Running autolite 45 now with .035 gap and pertronics igniter. Plugs seem to be running a little hot. Can someone provide the correct plug or plug recommendations?? Thanks |
| | RE: Correct plugs for a '69 428 CJ??? -- J. Robb, 09/08/2000
Service manual specifies Autolite BF-32 for 428 with .032 to .036 gap, stock. |
| | RE: Correct plugs for a '69 428 CJ??? -- bobbycurtis, 09/10/2000
autolite 35 is what i run |
| 390 to 427 -- Terry, 09/08/2000
what other changes do i have to make after i put a 428 crank in my 390 to get too 427 cid ? |
| | RE: 390 to 427, do you mean 428? -- KarlJay, 09/10/2000
The bore and strokes are:
390: 4.05 x 3.78
427: 4.23 x 3.78
428: 4.13 x 3.984
Putting a 428 crank in a 390 makes it a 410, you MIGHT be able to bore your 390 80 over to make it a 428, but you should sonic check first.
The 410, 428 are externaly balanced and require a different flywheel. The 390, 427 are internally balanced.
I've heard someone say that some of the old 390 blocks were used for the 427 center oilers but I don't know this to be a fact, anyway, you need the flywheel (McLeod # 463211) and then have the whole thing balanced. Make sure that you get the proper piston pin height, 410 or 428 or custom
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| | RE: 390 to 427 -- Paul, 09/10/2000
Terry: Check this out< www.flatlanderracing.com >
Left click stroker kits. I heard they'er about $1600 to $2000. Just thougth you might want to see this. There's a 390 to 430 kit !!! |
| | | RE: 390 to 427 -- Terry, 09/10/2000
Paul
thanks for your response, that was great.
terry |
| | | | RE: 390 to 427 -- Paul, 09/13/2000
Terry: I found a web page that tells of a 390-443 stroker. It's confuses me though, he writes of a 390, then says 428, then in the specs. he writes FT block. Oh well!! you might like reading it anyway, I did. Here's the address http://members.tripod.com/lyc_42/443/443.htm |
| | | | | RE: 390 to 427 -- terry, 09/14/2000
Thanks again paul, yea that dosn't make much sents but thats ok thanks again |
| | | | | RE: 390 to 427 -- wrench, 09/17/2000
I understand it this way!!!!
he writes FT block= Ford Truck = 391CID
and those 391 are use to make a 427-428 out
and the 391 got a larger distributor hole that the 390, and fews other thing!
Wrench
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| | | | | | RE: 390 to 427 -- terry, 09/21/2000
thanks wrench, i new somewhere along the line someone has got the 427 out of somekind of 390. thanks again Terry |
| | | | | | RE: 390 to 427 -- terry, 09/22/2000
Thanks again wrench for the info on the trucks terry |
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