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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22715&Reply=22715><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Oil in the heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Scott A. Ekleberry, <i>09/01/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>OK, I've read all the threads I can find on this but I've tried what they say already it seems. What I have is a 390, oil mods done to the block (drilled-out passeges from the pump and filter) running a high volume oil pump (Melling). It's been smoking from day one. We thought it was the intake gaskets so pulled the intake, gaskets were fine. A look down the intake ports showed probably 1/8" of oil laying on the intake valves. Intake went back in and 68 Holley jets went in the oil holes to the rocker stands. Still had the problem. Last week we tore off the rockers, put 58 Holley jets in. Before putting on the rockers we checked, still TONS of oil coming out. Back out came the studs and we put 60 Holley jets on top of the 58 Holley jets. STILL tons of oil coming out. So, we put positive stop oil seals on the drivers side head (there were only 8 seals in the whole town so we couldn't do both heads at this time). Plans are to do the seals on the passenger side around Christmas. Now, the engine is still smoking, not as bad as it did but it is still doing it. I do know it smoked mainly out of the drivers side to start with (no H or X pipe so the exhaust goes right to the back on each side), and it does seem like the oil does not drain as well on the drivers side as the passenger side. I have C6AE-R heads (428CJ valves) with Victor intake gaskets and Felpro head gaskets (blue). I'm using ARP head bolts. It does seem like the head bolts on the top corners go through the drain holes for the oil from the heads?<br><br>My questions: Am I always going to have this problem? Is it worth going back to the stock-style oil pump to get rid of the problem (or will it even get rid of the problem)? Any other ideas you guys may have? Thank you!<br><br>Scott </blockquote> Oil in the heads -- Scott A. Ekleberry, 09/01/2004
OK, I've read all the threads I can find on this but I've tried what they say already it seems. What I have is a 390, oil mods done to the block (drilled-out passeges from the pump and filter) running a high volume oil pump (Melling). It's been smoking from day one. We thought it was the intake gaskets so pulled the intake, gaskets were fine. A look down the intake ports showed probably 1/8" of oil laying on the intake valves. Intake went back in and 68 Holley jets went in the oil holes to the rocker stands. Still had the problem. Last week we tore off the rockers, put 58 Holley jets in. Before putting on the rockers we checked, still TONS of oil coming out. Back out came the studs and we put 60 Holley jets on top of the 58 Holley jets. STILL tons of oil coming out. So, we put positive stop oil seals on the drivers side head (there were only 8 seals in the whole town so we couldn't do both heads at this time). Plans are to do the seals on the passenger side around Christmas. Now, the engine is still smoking, not as bad as it did but it is still doing it. I do know it smoked mainly out of the drivers side to start with (no H or X pipe so the exhaust goes right to the back on each side), and it does seem like the oil does not drain as well on the drivers side as the passenger side. I have C6AE-R heads (428CJ valves) with Victor intake gaskets and Felpro head gaskets (blue). I'm using ARP head bolts. It does seem like the head bolts on the top corners go through the drain holes for the oil from the heads?

My questions: Am I always going to have this problem? Is it worth going back to the stock-style oil pump to get rid of the problem (or will it even get rid of the problem)? Any other ideas you guys may have? Thank you!

Scott
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22725&Reply=22715><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Oil in the heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>giacamo, <i>09/01/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>scot i run the melling hv pump in all my rebilds and i don,t use restricters, are you runing the rocker arm tin?i,v never had heads floud with oil?on the solid lifter moters i try to use the older styal tin that has more oil shoets that chanel the oil back down past the pushrods,are your plugs fouling? are your valve guides ok? i,v sean gides wiped out on the fe moter with very littel run time becouse the machine shop left the gide on the exaust valve pretrude in the exaust port wich has the tendencie to get hot and the valve startes to gald with the gide wipeing it out cousing oil consumpsin.the restricter trend on this site is most use restricters but fortuned enuf i have never had to use them.my two cents...... </blockquote> RE: Oil in the heads -- giacamo, 09/01/2004
scot i run the melling hv pump in all my rebilds and i don,t use restricters, are you runing the rocker arm tin?i,v never had heads floud with oil?on the solid lifter moters i try to use the older styal tin that has more oil shoets that chanel the oil back down past the pushrods,are your plugs fouling? are your valve guides ok? i,v sean gides wiped out on the fe moter with very littel run time becouse the machine shop left the gide on the exaust valve pretrude in the exaust port wich has the tendencie to get hot and the valve startes to gald with the gide wipeing it out cousing oil consumpsin.the restricter trend on this site is most use restricters but fortuned enuf i have never had to use them.my two cents......
 RE: Oil in the heads -- Scott A. Ekleberry, 09/01/2004
Tons of oil going up there, and it isn't getting out fast enough. Guides were just relined and he did machine them down correctly, I saw them before he assembled them. I have the stock 390 splash tins on the rockers. I know there is a better kind which might help but have yet to find a set for sale without the heads unfortunatly.

Scott
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22736&Reply=22715><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Oil in the heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dano, <i>09/03/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Take the valve covers off and dump some oil on the head,  or else remove the distributer also and prime the engine, that will let you see if it is draining through the drain back holes, or if you have some other oil leak problem, if you are using stock type rockers you really shouldn't need restrictors.  The main reason for restrictors is for the needle bearing style rockers, oil will shoot out of those like crazey compared to the relatively tight fitting stock type.   </blockquote> RE: Oil in the heads -- Dano, 09/03/2004
Take the valve covers off and dump some oil on the head, or else remove the distributer also and prime the engine, that will let you see if it is draining through the drain back holes, or if you have some other oil leak problem, if you are using stock type rockers you really shouldn't need restrictors. The main reason for restrictors is for the needle bearing style rockers, oil will shoot out of those like crazey compared to the relatively tight fitting stock type.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22737&Reply=22715><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Oil in the heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Scott A. Ekleberry, <i>09/03/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thank you for the reply. No, it doesn't drain as fast as I think it should, puddles up, I've seen it. I'm positive I put on the head gaskets right, they were marked which way they went. It all has my puzzled really. I do know there is tons of oil getting pumped to the heads, just cranking it over without starting it shows that. I think the oil mods I did to the block are causing some of it. The good news is the new positive valve seals are helping, the bad news is it is only treating the problem not fixing it. I suppose I may have to pull the heads eventually, maybe Fel-Pro gaskets aren't the best to use after all?<br><br>Scott </blockquote> RE: Oil in the heads -- Scott A. Ekleberry, 09/03/2004
Thank you for the reply. No, it doesn't drain as fast as I think it should, puddles up, I've seen it. I'm positive I put on the head gaskets right, they were marked which way they went. It all has my puzzled really. I do know there is tons of oil getting pumped to the heads, just cranking it over without starting it shows that. I think the oil mods I did to the block are causing some of it. The good news is the new positive valve seals are helping, the bad news is it is only treating the problem not fixing it. I suppose I may have to pull the heads eventually, maybe Fel-Pro gaskets aren't the best to use after all?

Scott
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22747&Reply=22715><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Oil in the heads</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dave, <i>09/06/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>FEL-PRO blue intake gaskets? I'm 2 for 2 as far as recent work goes where I have had cause to pull the intake after installing them and both times found evidence where they had failed on the bottom of the intake ports adjacent to the exhaust crossover. I went back to the older style re-inforced FEL-PRO intake, I have NEVER seen signs of the older style giving in and I have had some cars that should have had zippers I was tearing into em so often. </blockquote> RE: Oil in the heads -- Dave, 09/06/2004
FEL-PRO blue intake gaskets? I'm 2 for 2 as far as recent work goes where I have had cause to pull the intake after installing them and both times found evidence where they had failed on the bottom of the intake ports adjacent to the exhaust crossover. I went back to the older style re-inforced FEL-PRO intake, I have NEVER seen signs of the older style giving in and I have had some cars that should have had zippers I was tearing into em so often.
 RE: Oil in the heads -- Scott A. Ekleberry, 09/06/2004
No, Fel-Pro blue head gaskets. I did have the Fel-Pro blue intake gaskets but replaced them when this problem started. Turns out it was not the intake gaskets at all.

Scott
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22775&Reply=22715><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Rocker Shafts?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jay in Ks, <i>09/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Make sure the rocker shaft holes are in the bottom of the shaft. This can cause excessive oil to the top end. </blockquote> Rocker Shafts? -- Jay in Ks, 09/09/2004
Make sure the rocker shaft holes are in the bottom of the shaft. This can cause excessive oil to the top end.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22776&Reply=22715><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Rocker Shafts?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Scott A. Ekleberry, <i>09/09/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thank you, if we have them apart again I will check it out. </blockquote> RE: Rocker Shafts? -- Scott A. Ekleberry, 09/09/2004
Thank you, if we have them apart again I will check it out.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22847&Reply=22715><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Rocker Shafts?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>AK, <i>09/21/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Has anyone done a different solution to a problem? I`ve planned to do to my fe extra oil return pipes from back of valvecover to oil pan?<br><br> </blockquote> RE: Rocker Shafts? -- AK, 09/21/2004
Has anyone done a different solution to a problem? I`ve planned to do to my fe extra oil return pipes from back of valvecover to oil pan?

 RE: Rocker Shafts? -- Dave, 09/22/2004
I cut the top off an old valve cover ,bolted it on and ran the engine, I have the long finger style oil baffles and by reshaping them with pliers and duck bills was able to make a HUGE difference in the rate and volume of oil that drained back into the lifter valley. I would be happy to ship this custom tool to anyone that needs it as long as they send it back.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22712&Reply=22712><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Swap 351C with 4.6L</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mark, <i>08/31/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 1972 Mustang conv. that has a 351C in it. The engine needs to be rebuilt but I can come by a 2002 4.6L police package engine, harness and trans for near nothing with only 50000 miles on it. I have seen the swap in a couple other mustangs in magazines. Does anyone have any good advice on what may be needed to complete the swap?   </blockquote> Swap 351C with 4.6L -- Mark, 08/31/2004
I have a 1972 Mustang conv. that has a 351C in it. The engine needs to be rebuilt but I can come by a 2002 4.6L police package engine, harness and trans for near nothing with only 50000 miles on it. I have seen the swap in a couple other mustangs in magazines. Does anyone have any good advice on what may be needed to complete the swap?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22730&Reply=22712><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Swap 351C with 4.6L</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>joe trankler, <i>09/02/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>a big hammer </blockquote> RE: Swap 351C with 4.6L -- joe trankler, 09/02/2004
a big hammer
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22733&Reply=22712><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>i am sorry to say, If you have to ask....</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>hawkrod, <i>09/02/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>then this swap may be beyond anything you would ever want to get into. That Mod motor is significantly wider than a 429/460 and there is a ton of cutting welding and fabrication as nothing will fit as is. hawkrod </blockquote> i am sorry to say, If you have to ask.... -- hawkrod, 09/02/2004
then this swap may be beyond anything you would ever want to get into. That Mod motor is significantly wider than a 429/460 and there is a ton of cutting welding and fabrication as nothing will fit as is. hawkrod
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22734&Reply=22712><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>It's not as wide as a 429,460</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Dano, <i>09/03/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>If you have a copy of the Ford Racing catalog, it shows the dimentions of the 460 to be, Length, 32" width, 26" and height of 28"  VS length, 28" width, 26" and height of 30" for the 4.6 SOHC.  The DOHC is 4" wider, 4" taller and the same legnth.  as Hawkrod said though, it would be a very difficult swap, and the 4.6 isn't going to be any faster than a stock FI 5.0 motor. </blockquote> It's not as wide as a 429,460 -- Dano, 09/03/2004
If you have a copy of the Ford Racing catalog, it shows the dimentions of the 460 to be, Length, 32" width, 26" and height of 28" VS length, 28" width, 26" and height of 30" for the 4.6 SOHC. The DOHC is 4" wider, 4" taller and the same legnth. as Hawkrod said though, it would be a very difficult swap, and the 4.6 isn't going to be any faster than a stock FI 5.0 motor.
 Sorry, I was thinking DOHC -- hawkrod, 09/03/2004
I knew the DOHC was a lot wider than the 429/460, I just sold one on Ebay Tuesday and it was a monster! Hawkrod
 RE: Swap 351C with 4.6L -- 70sum, 10/07/2004
I have done this swap in a 70 fastback. Not hard to do if you can weld and you are willing to cut the shock towers. A few pics are at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/598113
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22702&Reply=22702><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>71 429scj</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>JP Fourie, <i>08/28/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'm the lucky owner of 1 of only 2 SCJ (R-code block and heads )  mustangs in South Africa . Something I cant figure out - how many Fords came fitted with a 200MPH speedo ?  the rear-end is filled with 2.41 ratio gears , and a C-6 to back it up . I'm thinking of swapping those out 4 a set of 4.11's since my motor is sitting on the bench , and ol' trusty ( a 390GT from a '66 galaxy) is doing the motivation for time being . any help would be appreciated .  </blockquote> 71 429scj -- JP Fourie, 08/28/2004
I'm the lucky owner of 1 of only 2 SCJ (R-code block and heads ) mustangs in South Africa . Something I cant figure out - how many Fords came fitted with a 200MPH speedo ? the rear-end is filled with 2.41 ratio gears , and a C-6 to back it up . I'm thinking of swapping those out 4 a set of 4.11's since my motor is sitting on the bench , and ol' trusty ( a 390GT from a '66 galaxy) is doing the motivation for time being . any help would be appreciated .
 That speedo reads up to 200 kph - not mph. See... -- Mr F, 08/29/2004
http://www.jcoconsulting.com/ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=15953&Reply=15934
 Be sure to join us here... -- Dan Davis, 08/29/2004
...http://www.429mustangcougarinfo.50megs.com and our owners forum at http://www.network54.com/Hide/Forum/234286 . We keep a registry of all surviving cars and help folks find unique parts too. Even Mr F is a member of our group (he has a 429CJ coupe).

Cheers,
Dan Davis
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22701&Reply=22701><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>66 Mustang Hood scoop installation</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mike, <i>08/28/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Does anyone have a drawing / measurements for the proper installation of a Shelby type hood scoop on a 66 Mustang fastback </blockquote> 66 Mustang Hood scoop installation -- Mike, 08/28/2004
Does anyone have a drawing / measurements for the proper installation of a Shelby type hood scoop on a 66 Mustang fastback
 FE Street Car Shootout in Columbus -- Steve M, 08/28/2004
The ford Expo is next weekend in Columbus. The FE club is having an FE only shootout. The link to the ford expo website is below if anybody is interested. I will be there in my big ole galaxie. The weather looks good too for next weekend.

http://www.fordexpo.com/events.htm
 ATI Super Damper -- John C, 08/27/2004
Fellows, please bear with me because I am super green at this fe engine building; infact engine building period. My 390 is completely torn down and all machined and ready for a rebuild. I'm replacing the stock crank pulley with an ATI Super Damper and using a March underdrive pully. Have any of you boys used this type of damper and is there anything I need to be aware of? Thanks, John
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22686&Reply=22686><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Attention Hawkrod</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Jim Davis,, <i>08/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>We are trying to make our FE damper more universal so it will fit more FE applications but are having trouble coming up with the necessary data to do this. You seem to be quite knowledgeable on FE dampers and I would like to discuss it with you. If you could give me a call at 323-754-1287 X241, I would appreciate it. <br><br>Our current damper is essentially a copy of the 427 high performance damper with the integral pulley. We have subsequently redesigned this damper so that you can remove our supplied pulley and bolt on other stock FE pulleys. But we are still not sure of exactly what other engines this damper might fit. We were originally led to believe that this damper would fit all FE engines but I have subsequently learned this is not true.<br><br>If there is anyone else with solid facts on FE damper interchangeability I would appreciate hearing from you too.  </blockquote> Attention Hawkrod -- Jim Davis,, 08/27/2004
We are trying to make our FE damper more universal so it will fit more FE applications but are having trouble coming up with the necessary data to do this. You seem to be quite knowledgeable on FE dampers and I would like to discuss it with you. If you could give me a call at 323-754-1287 X241, I would appreciate it.

Our current damper is essentially a copy of the 427 high performance damper with the integral pulley. We have subsequently redesigned this damper so that you can remove our supplied pulley and bolt on other stock FE pulleys. But we are still not sure of exactly what other engines this damper might fit. We were originally led to believe that this damper would fit all FE engines but I have subsequently learned this is not true.

If there is anyone else with solid facts on FE damper interchangeability I would appreciate hearing from you too.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22692&Reply=22686><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>harmonic balancer</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>gene simmons, <i>08/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>i believe ur a rep from profesional products, i had bought a #80009 from my local store and it wouldn't work on my '68 ford f250 390 motor. there was no way to center my factory pulleys that i needed to run. id be interested in seeing the new design. </blockquote> harmonic balancer -- gene simmons, 08/27/2004
i believe ur a rep from profesional products, i had bought a #80009 from my local store and it wouldn't work on my '68 ford f250 390 motor. there was no way to center my factory pulleys that i needed to run. id be interested in seeing the new design.
 RE: harmonic balancer -- Jim Davis,, 08/27/2004
I am actually chief operating officer and one of the owners of Professional Products. I neglected to mention that in my first post.

The modification we have made does allow you to remove our pulley, which suits the '67 and earlier engines, and position your '68 and later pulleys over a centering boss and bolt your pulley to the damper. We currently just have factory prototypes of the new design. Production parts will be available for sale in about 90 days.

We are also looking into supplying a timing pointer with the damper that will be a universal model that will bolt to all FE engines and will be designed to match the diameter of our damper. Our damper is the same diameter (7.5") as the 427 FE high performance damper so for later engines with smaller diameter dampers, a different timing pointer is required.

It appears that Hawkrod, who contacted me, will be able to provide us with all of the info we need to firm up our revised design, which appears to be about 98% accurate the way it is. We just need to make a couple of minor adjustments and we can release it for production.

When we originally released the first design of our damper, we were relying on incorrect data supplied to us by a so-called FE expert. Our original damper worked fine on '67 and earlier vehicles, and other than the timing pointer issue, would also work on later vehicles as long as they only needed one accessory pulley.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22656&Reply=22656><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Well Then Here We Go!</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>bubba, <i>08/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Deleteted my post for my apologetic adios? All I was going to do is read. As of now I have changed my mind. What country are you from anyways dude? American Constituyion says "Freedom of Speech". Live and let live.<br>Your forum is good, your decision to delete my expression=bad! Come on man give a dog a break. </blockquote> Well Then Here We Go! -- bubba, 08/26/2004
Deleteted my post for my apologetic adios? All I was going to do is read. As of now I have changed my mind. What country are you from anyways dude? American Constituyion says "Freedom of Speech". Live and let live.
Your forum is good, your decision to delete my expression=bad! Come on man give a dog a break.
 A test of wills? Ok - you're on. :-) [n/m] -- Mr F, 08/26/2004
n/m
 Oh - and when/if you're ready to contact me, directly... -- Mr F, 08/26/2004
http://www.fomoco.com/contact-fomoco-obsolete.shtml
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22649&Reply=22649><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>69 390 Vacuum hookups</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jwillya, <i>08/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of the vacuum connections for a 69 390 with Autolite 4300 carb?  I putting the fuel system back together after some amatuer mods done a number of years ago but have a couple of tubes/connections that I am not sure of.   </blockquote> 69 390 Vacuum hookups -- jwillya, 08/26/2004
Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of the vacuum connections for a 69 390 with Autolite 4300 carb? I putting the fuel system back together after some amatuer mods done a number of years ago but have a couple of tubes/connections that I am not sure of.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22650&Reply=22649><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>08/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Have one home in the garage if you can wait into tonight.....could post photos tomorrow..Anything specifically you need? have all the info...Raycfe </blockquote> RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups -- raycfe, 08/26/2004
Have one home in the garage if you can wait into tonight.....could post photos tomorrow..Anything specifically you need? have all the info...Raycfe
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22678&Reply=22649><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jwillya, <i>08/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Thanks - I would like to see where the air cleaner inlet plate vacuum actuator connects and where the tube coming up from the exhaust connects - not the one that goes to the choke on the carb - I managed to figure that one out.  There is a vacuum connection on the back to the carburator - near the top, that is not connected to anything yet.   </blockquote> RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups -- jwillya, 08/27/2004
Thanks - I would like to see where the air cleaner inlet plate vacuum actuator connects and where the tube coming up from the exhaust connects - not the one that goes to the choke on the carb - I managed to figure that one out. There is a vacuum connection on the back to the carburator - near the top, that is not connected to anything yet.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22679&Reply=22649><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>08/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>The fitting near the top and rear of the carb is the inlet for thr choke "stove". air is drawen from there, first with a rubber hose to a metal line to the underside of the right exhaust manifold. the hot air from the manifold comes up to the choke housing. The air cleaner valve gets connected to manifold vacuum gets connted to manifold vacuum at hthe fitting on the intake manifold by cyl #3.  Hope this helps. The only other hose to the carb is the ported vacuum line to the dist thermo valve. </blockquote> RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups -- raycfe, 08/27/2004
The fitting near the top and rear of the carb is the inlet for thr choke "stove". air is drawen from there, first with a rubber hose to a metal line to the underside of the right exhaust manifold. the hot air from the manifold comes up to the choke housing. The air cleaner valve gets connected to manifold vacuum gets connted to manifold vacuum at hthe fitting on the intake manifold by cyl #3. Hope this helps. The only other hose to the carb is the ported vacuum line to the dist thermo valve.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22680&Reply=22649><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jwillya, <i>08/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>It does help - thanks a lot.  First time on this forum and not a true Mustang wrench head like most of the folks here - just happened to get lucky enough to buy mine when I was in high school (24 years ago) and hang on to it.<br><br>Jim </blockquote> RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups -- jwillya, 08/27/2004
It does help - thanks a lot. First time on this forum and not a true Mustang wrench head like most of the folks here - just happened to get lucky enough to buy mine when I was in high school (24 years ago) and hang on to it.

Jim
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22681&Reply=22649><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>08/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>beat u   since 1978 68 s code gt  Glad I could help...anytime </blockquote> RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups -- raycfe, 08/27/2004
beat u since 1978 68 s code gt Glad I could help...anytime
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22682&Reply=22649><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jwillya, <i>08/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Hat's off where due - 68 GT - impressed.<br> </blockquote> RE: 69 390 Vacuum hookups -- jwillya, 08/27/2004
Hat's off where due - 68 GT - impressed.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22683&Reply=22649><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>your email</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>raycfe, <i>08/27/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>doesn't seem to work well.so here goes<br>[Image deleted by Admin.] </blockquote> your email -- raycfe, 08/27/2004
doesn't seem to work well.so here goes
[Image deleted by Admin.]
 RE: your email -- jwillya, 08/30/2004
Nice!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=22646&Reply=22646><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>OEM 'style' Waterpump?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>RGS0907, <i>08/26/2004</i></font><br /><blockquote>Anyone have a suggestion for an OEM like waterpump for an FE engine that is more efficient then stock but still looks OEM?  What about the Motorcraft pumps that are advertised?  Thanks.<br><br> </blockquote> OEM 'style' Waterpump? -- RGS0907, 08/26/2004
Anyone have a suggestion for an OEM like waterpump for an FE engine that is more efficient then stock but still looks OEM? What about the Motorcraft pumps that are advertised? Thanks.

 RE: OEM 'style' Waterpump? -- raycfe, 08/26/2004
Well no one else answered you so I'll give you my 2 cents .I have heard that 70 on up pumps are an improved water pump, the impeller has a disc attached to it to make it work better..I am usuing a new motorcraft pump(2 years ago), but have not ever taken the rear cover off it to compare.
 Milidon Hi flo n/m -- Junior, 08/26/2004
n.m
 RE: OEM 'style' Waterpump? -- giacamo, 08/29/2004
i.v allways ues oem pumps with no problems,? maybe just lucky?
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