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Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6962&Reply=6962><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Part number for 390 rods?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Charles, <i>06/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I have a 360 in my '65 F-350 that I want to rebuild into a 390. I am looking for a crank and rods. What are the part numbers on each that I should look for? Thanks. </blockquote> Part number for 390 rods? -- Charles, 06/21/2001
I have a 360 in my '65 F-350 that I want to rebuild into a 390. I am looking for a crank and rods. What are the part numbers on each that I should look for? Thanks.
 RE: Part number for 390 rods? -- kevin, 06/21/2001
You should have no problem finding some w/# C-3, C-4, C-6, C-7. these are the most common. The "long skinny rods, 352, 360" are most likely, EDC, (early) C-1, or C-7 You can use "Police-Intercepter" type for an upgrade if you wish, but it is not needed as you can buy ARP bolts and have them resized. Good luck.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6959&Reply=6959><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>How rare is this?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>F-100-66, <i>06/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Very Very nice original 64 Galaxie XL 4dr hd tp with bucket seats, console & a 4spd. 390 4v with power steering, brakes,air, & I think windows but not sure.  Dk Green Met. w/tan interior. Is this worth picking up? gorgeous in and out, too bad its a 4dr but have never heard of a 4dr w/buckets,console & 4spd. </blockquote> How rare is this? -- F-100-66, 06/21/2001
Very Very nice original 64 Galaxie XL 4dr hd tp with bucket seats, console & a 4spd. 390 4v with power steering, brakes,air, & I think windows but not sure. Dk Green Met. w/tan interior. Is this worth picking up? gorgeous in and out, too bad its a 4dr but have never heard of a 4dr w/buckets,console & 4spd.
 RE: How rare is this? -- Bill, 06/21/2001
Yes they made them. I only wish they hade done the same in 1965.
 Probably one of the best looking four door ever .. -- Don V, 06/21/2001
made by any manufacturer in the sixties, I'd jump on it if priced right.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6967&Reply=6959><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: How rare is this?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Orin, <i>06/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>  Go here to learn more about your Galaxie<br>   <a href="http://www.galaxieclub.com/">http://www.galaxieclub.com/</a> </blockquote> RE: How rare is this? -- Orin, 06/21/2001
Go here to learn more about your Galaxie
http://www.galaxieclub.com/
 4 door Galxie XL -- Lou, 06/22/2001
Total production 1964 4 door Galxie XL 14,661, I have no idea how many were made with a $ speed but I wouldn't think more than 500.
This model was made in 1963 and 1964 only.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6946&Reply=6946><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>my 390 wont take "the juice"</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jim sirois, <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>ive got a 1968 390 in my 1964 f110 pickup and it wont take a charge. ive got a new bat. voltage regulator and alt. and have rejoined all splices i could find and cleaned all conn. all to no avail. what could i be overlooking? I even thouight it might be my starter cuz the celinoid is on the starter, but if you jump it ,it grabs right away so ive reconsidered. HELP </blockquote> my 390 wont take "the juice" -- jim sirois, 06/20/2001
ive got a 1968 390 in my 1964 f110 pickup and it wont take a charge. ive got a new bat. voltage regulator and alt. and have rejoined all splices i could find and cleaned all conn. all to no avail. what could i be overlooking? I even thouight it might be my starter cuz the celinoid is on the starter, but if you jump it ,it grabs right away so ive reconsidered. HELP
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6952&Reply=6946><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: my 390 wont take "the juice"</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>71 Scj, <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Jim, are you sure its a 390? As 390 should not have starter solonoid on starter but should be a remote relay on fenderwell. You mentioned you jumped it at starter? exactly what did you do.<br>Sounds like you do not have power coming from your ignition in crank mode. Did you try your headlights to see if battery does in fact have power? Did you just install this engine? </blockquote> RE: my 390 wont take "the juice" -- 71 Scj, 06/20/2001
Jim, are you sure its a 390? As 390 should not have starter solonoid on starter but should be a remote relay on fenderwell. You mentioned you jumped it at starter? exactly what did you do.
Sounds like you do not have power coming from your ignition in crank mode. Did you try your headlights to see if battery does in fact have power? Did you just install this engine?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6956&Reply=6946><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: my 390 wont take "the juice"</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bill, <i>06/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Check your wiring harness on the fire wall by steering column to see if you have contact. Is it loose? </blockquote> RE: my 390 wont take "the juice" -- Bill, 06/21/2001
Check your wiring harness on the fire wall by steering column to see if you have contact. Is it loose?
 RE: my 390 wont take "the juice" -- richard, 06/21/2001
have the battery checked on a vat(voltage amperage tester) and see wht you get. just because the components are new does not mean they are good.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6969&Reply=6946><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: my 390 wont take "the juice"</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>jim sirois, <i>06/22/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>ive checked every connection n ground to no avail batt is new n checked alt is new n checked harness old but new ends and is reading 12 both running n not at both ends and at the starter jump on the fire wall and at the voltage regulator. is there a way i can be getting 12 if my fusable link is bad? volt. reg is new also. my celinoid IS on my starter, but i also have a "starter jump" mounted on the firewall but from what im told its all copper interior n shouldnt go bad   if so i wouldnt get 12 volts end to end </blockquote> RE: my 390 wont take "the juice" -- jim sirois, 06/22/2001
ive checked every connection n ground to no avail batt is new n checked alt is new n checked harness old but new ends and is reading 12 both running n not at both ends and at the starter jump on the fire wall and at the voltage regulator. is there a way i can be getting 12 if my fusable link is bad? volt. reg is new also. my celinoid IS on my starter, but i also have a "starter jump" mounted on the firewall but from what im told its all copper interior n shouldnt go bad if so i wouldnt get 12 volts end to end
 RE: my 390 wont take "the juice" -- richard, 06/24/2001
if all you are getting is 12v you have a bad connection, a missing connection, a bad wire(or fusable link), a bad alternator, or a bad(or improperly adjusted) voltage regulator.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6944&Reply=6944><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>OK Shoe Im back from hell</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>kevin, <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>actually I was up north for a while and was not able to follow up with pics as I never bought a camera. It rained all the damn time, but I did go to Knoxville for a tacky track surprise. I see you are still awash with the intake mystery so here goes. The engine up to 61 sat level in the cars and continued like that in the T-bird line only. The 60 HP did have a level engine and intake, also the carb spacer was flat. In 61 with the tilt in place the intake was tilted to keep the carb level. Also saw where someone thinks that 427 cars had a small input trans. I can tell you that the 65 and 66 sitting there were both original (65 has less than 3000 miles on it) and they have the big input top loaders from the factory. Did you find any pics of the Red Baron? Its good to be back with my feet in the sand although I miss the black dirt garden veggies from my garden up there. I am going to head back up soon and would consider visiting a relative who lives in Clear Lake. Is that close to you? Also , have you ever been to LaCrosse for the big Octoberfest bash? They have a 5/8 asphalt track there that is great. </blockquote> OK Shoe Im back from hell -- kevin, 06/20/2001
actually I was up north for a while and was not able to follow up with pics as I never bought a camera. It rained all the damn time, but I did go to Knoxville for a tacky track surprise. I see you are still awash with the intake mystery so here goes. The engine up to 61 sat level in the cars and continued like that in the T-bird line only. The 60 HP did have a level engine and intake, also the carb spacer was flat. In 61 with the tilt in place the intake was tilted to keep the carb level. Also saw where someone thinks that 427 cars had a small input trans. I can tell you that the 65 and 66 sitting there were both original (65 has less than 3000 miles on it) and they have the big input top loaders from the factory. Did you find any pics of the Red Baron? Its good to be back with my feet in the sand although I miss the black dirt garden veggies from my garden up there. I am going to head back up soon and would consider visiting a relative who lives in Clear Lake. Is that close to you? Also , have you ever been to LaCrosse for the big Octoberfest bash? They have a 5/8 asphalt track there that is great.
 RE: Thanks.... -- Mike McQuesten, 06/20/2001
Thanks Kevin for this information. First, the info on the '60 "level" engine vs. the '61 "Tilted" engine. Why was this? Did it have to do with hood/fender styling? I have owned both '60s and '61s and realize the major differences in the styling. I never realized or thought about the engine angle being different until I saw the differences between the intakes. So that would mean that all '60 intakes iron, FE, 292, etc. would have a different carb base from '61 and later too, right? I'm sure glad to have the correct '60 HP intake ready for my car. I might have run a '61 if I'd had one and didn't know better. Which makes me wonder about using my '61 tri power system. I planned to install this complete, tried and proven set-up the second year or so after I break in the 427 built to look very similar to a 352HP. Would this be a major mistake? Should I look to trade my "stacked" '61 tri-power intake for a "flat" 'bird intake?
Second issue, about the large input 4 speed top loader T & C trans installed in '65/'66 Galaxies, well, it's good to know the truth. I'm not fortunate enough to have owned one of these rare big Fords so I've never had to pull a trans to replace a clutch. If I did have one though, I know I'd eventually have to R&R the clutch because I would drive that brute the way it was meant to be. We Fordnatics here in these parts didn't know the big input was produced until '67 or so. Thanks again for the correct info and I need help on my '60 questions.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6942&Reply=6942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>68 428 CJ Fastback (Real or Not?)</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken, <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I will be looking at a 68 Fastback 428CJ 4 speed car in a couple of days that is for sale. Except for car shows, I have never looked at one in the past.<br>Knowing that VIN tags can be changed.<br><br>My questions are: How can I make sure that this is really a 428CJ car and not a clone?<br><br>How can I tell if this is the original engine?<br><br>What should I check on the heads that would let me know they are indeed CJ heads? <br><br>I have been told that the car looks like it just came off the showroom floor, has dual quads & ran an 11.50 in the 1/4.  (Dual quads & 11.50 don't sound stock, what do you think?) </blockquote> 68 428 CJ Fastback (Real or Not?) -- Ken, 06/20/2001
I will be looking at a 68 Fastback 428CJ 4 speed car in a couple of days that is for sale. Except for car shows, I have never looked at one in the past.
Knowing that VIN tags can be changed.

My questions are: How can I make sure that this is really a 428CJ car and not a clone?

How can I tell if this is the original engine?

What should I check on the heads that would let me know they are indeed CJ heads?

I have been told that the car looks like it just came off the showroom floor, has dual quads & ran an 11.50 in the 1/4. (Dual quads & 11.50 don't sound stock, what do you think?)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6943&Reply=6942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Q code & R code 428 ?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken, <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Almost forgot.<br>I have been told the 68 came with a Q code and an R code 428. What is the difference between a Q code 428 and a R code 428?<br>Asking price a while back was $30,000 and is now $15,000. </blockquote> Q code & R code 428 ? -- Ken, 06/20/2001
Almost forgot.
I have been told the 68 came with a Q code and an R code 428. What is the difference between a Q code 428 and a R code 428?
Asking price a while back was $30,000 and is now $15,000.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6947&Reply=6942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Q code & R code 428 ?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Tim B, <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>R code is Ram Air, Q code is non-Ram Air. One exception is a 70 Cougar. Ram Air became an option and all were Q codes. </blockquote> RE: Q code & R code 428 ? -- Tim B, 06/20/2001
R code is Ram Air, Q code is non-Ram Air. One exception is a 70 Cougar. Ram Air became an option and all were Q codes.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6949&Reply=6942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Q code & R code 428 ?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Royce Peterson, <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Actually they only made R code 428 CJ Mustangs and Cougars in 1968. All were Ram Air equipped. None came from the factory with anything besides a single 735 CFM 4V. <br><br>For more info on 428CJ Mustangs visit www.428cobrajet.com<br><br>If I were buying that car Kevin Marti would be getting the VIN number and a credit card number so the true facts about the car's equipment when shipped from Ford could be known.<br><br>Contact Kevin at kmartkmart@aol.com<br><br><br>Royce Peterson<br>68 Cougar 427 GTE W-Code(2 of them)<br>68 1/2 Cougar 428 CJ R-Code </blockquote> RE: Q code & R code 428 ? -- Royce Peterson, 06/20/2001
Actually they only made R code 428 CJ Mustangs and Cougars in 1968. All were Ram Air equipped. None came from the factory with anything besides a single 735 CFM 4V.

For more info on 428CJ Mustangs visit www.428cobrajet.com

If I were buying that car Kevin Marti would be getting the VIN number and a credit card number so the true facts about the car's equipment when shipped from Ford could be known.

Contact Kevin at kmartkmart@aol.com


Royce Peterson
68 Cougar 427 GTE W-Code(2 of them)
68 1/2 Cougar 428 CJ R-Code
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6951&Reply=6942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: Q code & R code 428 ?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>71 Scj, <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Royce is right on the money only R codes all ram air in 68. An easy way to check for possible original engine is the date code on block which is at oil filter adaptor pad just below machined surface.it will start with a number indicating year then letter indicating month then number indicating the date of month. If it has 2x4's and is supposed to be original that tells you something allready, & also indicates the very very<br>expensive Ram Air System is missing approx 1300.00 or more by itself. Take Royce's advice and contact Kevin Marti & order a basic report by vin number @<br>22.00 plus 15.00 for same day return by fax if he is not buried in work (which he usually is). His phone is 623-935-2558 & fax is 623-935-2579. You should also check out the trans & rear axle as the trans should be a big-in big-out toploader the tag should be RUG-S, RUG-AE OR RUG-AE1. The rear should have 31 spline axles identified by 3 holes in end vs 1 very large rectangular hole for 28 spline. Also look for a N case rear center section. The shock towers should have extra bracing around them. The vin number will be stamped on top of shock towers. The casting numbers on heads should be C80E-N cast between the center spark plugs both sides. The date codes are under valve cover. If the date code on block does not match car it could be anything. (sometimes the date coded blocks have been changed to something close so be careful) If original block the VIN should be on cast surface drivers side just below deck,difficult to see though. If original trans it should have the VIN stamped in it also. Usually on the bottom of case on small cast pad near tailshaft mounting or on mounting ear surface of trans. Some times on top so hard to see. Just so many things to look for & too much to list here. Just a few ideas. </blockquote> RE: Q code & R code 428 ? -- 71 Scj, 06/20/2001
Royce is right on the money only R codes all ram air in 68. An easy way to check for possible original engine is the date code on block which is at oil filter adaptor pad just below machined surface.it will start with a number indicating year then letter indicating month then number indicating the date of month. If it has 2x4's and is supposed to be original that tells you something allready, & also indicates the very very
expensive Ram Air System is missing approx 1300.00 or more by itself. Take Royce's advice and contact Kevin Marti & order a basic report by vin number @
22.00 plus 15.00 for same day return by fax if he is not buried in work (which he usually is). His phone is 623-935-2558 & fax is 623-935-2579. You should also check out the trans & rear axle as the trans should be a big-in big-out toploader the tag should be RUG-S, RUG-AE OR RUG-AE1. The rear should have 31 spline axles identified by 3 holes in end vs 1 very large rectangular hole for 28 spline. Also look for a N case rear center section. The shock towers should have extra bracing around them. The vin number will be stamped on top of shock towers. The casting numbers on heads should be C80E-N cast between the center spark plugs both sides. The date codes are under valve cover. If the date code on block does not match car it could be anything. (sometimes the date coded blocks have been changed to something close so be careful) If original block the VIN should be on cast surface drivers side just below deck,difficult to see though. If original trans it should have the VIN stamped in it also. Usually on the bottom of case on small cast pad near tailshaft mounting or on mounting ear surface of trans. Some times on top so hard to see. Just so many things to look for & too much to list here. Just a few ideas.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6966&Reply=6942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Any tips on finding hidden POWER related damage?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Ken, <i>06/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>A person who has driven this car owns a 71 Cuda with a built 440. He claims this Mustang has ungodly power.<br>What areas should I check or are prone to POWER related damage on a 68 Fastback? </blockquote> Any tips on finding hidden POWER related damage? -- Ken, 06/21/2001
A person who has driven this car owns a 71 Cuda with a built 440. He claims this Mustang has ungodly power.
What areas should I check or are prone to POWER related damage on a 68 Fastback?
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6968&Reply=6942><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Base of shock towers; pans at spring perch [n/m]</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Mr F, <i>06/21/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>n/m </blockquote> Base of shock towers; pans at spring perch [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/21/2001
n/m
 Thank you for all of the help [n/m] -- Ken, 06/22/2001
(nm)
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6939&Reply=6939><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>new to the FE</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>matt eddins (fool injected), <i>06/20/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>i am new to the fe i just bought a 62 thunderbird with a 390 4bbl i was wondering if headers will help this car get a little extra mpg and what hp increase can i expect does anybody make a aod to bolt up behind the 390 what is a good carb intake setup on a basically stock engine besides that boat anchor cast iron one and any other leads on 62 thunderbird clubs would be helpful </blockquote> new to the FE -- matt eddins (fool injected), 06/20/2001
i am new to the fe i just bought a 62 thunderbird with a 390 4bbl i was wondering if headers will help this car get a little extra mpg and what hp increase can i expect does anybody make a aod to bolt up behind the 390 what is a good carb intake setup on a basically stock engine besides that boat anchor cast iron one and any other leads on 62 thunderbird clubs would be helpful
 RE: new to the FE -- gerry, 06/20/2001
Congratulations on your acquisition, Matt.
- Headers will help in engine efficiency (translation: yes, more HP and mpg.) There is one manufacturer who has a Tbird tri-y application, whos name escapes me at the moment, but I think it's FPP (Ford Power Parts)

- There is an AOD adapted for use behind the FE, but it ain't cheap. I believe the manufacturer is Lentech. Alternatively, consider the Gear Vendors overdrive. The money will come out about the same.

- The Edelbrock Performer with a 600cfm carb is a very good package for a person looking for a little crisper throttle in an otherwise stock package.

- There are a lot of Thunderbird clubs out there, Matt. Sometimes, I don't think you could throw a rock in a crowd and not hit someone with a T-bird club affiliation. Just type Thunderbird Club in your favorite search engine and choose. If you're from a top-100 metro area, you'll likely find one in your hometown.

Good luck
 RE: new to the FE -- 71 Scj, 06/20/2001
A good set of headers should give you 30 to 40hp over the stock T-bird manifolds. As someone mentioned a Edelbrock Performer Intake would work very well on your car along with a 650 to 700 cfm carb (check out the Edelbrock carb offerings) I am usually a Holley Fan but in your case try the Edelbrock. With the added power of carb,intake & headers you could probably go to a taller rear gear to also help out the mileage.
Good luck with the T-Bird!
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6935&Reply=6935><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>Flywheel</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Pete, <i>06/19/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Need an aftermarket flywheel for a 428CJ standard trans, any suggestions? </blockquote> Flywheel -- Pete, 06/19/2001
Need an aftermarket flywheel for a 428CJ standard trans, any suggestions?
 RE: Flywheel -- Jeff H., 06/22/2001
http://www.4speedtoploaders.com/flywheels.htm
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6925&Reply=6925><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>FE bell housing from FMX trans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve Boulay, <i>06/19/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>Does anyone have an FE bell housing from an FMX auto trans??  how much is/are they worth? <br>         Any help will be helpful,.<br>        Thanx in advance,<br>                  SGB </blockquote> FE bell housing from FMX trans -- Steve Boulay, 06/19/2001
Does anyone have an FE bell housing from an FMX auto trans?? how much is/are they worth?
Any help will be helpful,.
Thanx in advance,
SGB
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6928&Reply=6925><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: FE bell housing from FMX trans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bryan McPherson, <i>06/19/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>  I do have one,not sure of the value.You might want to post it in the classifed ads that you need one.I think you would be better off with a C-6 unless your trying to go back original. </blockquote> RE: FE bell housing from FMX trans -- Bryan McPherson, 06/19/2001
I do have one,not sure of the value.You might want to post it in the classifed ads that you need one.I think you would be better off with a C-6 unless your trying to go back original.
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6929&Reply=6925><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: FE bell housing from FMX trans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Steve Boulay, <i>06/19/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>   I'm working on engineering an adaptation of a late model AOD or AODE trans to an FE engine and I'm just trying to get a bell housing that separates from the automatic gear box  (unlike a C6) as a staring point. <br>     Is the FMX bell housing aluminum or iron/steel ?<br>I also considered working with a steel std. shift  after-market blow shield, and a few other options as starting points. <br>      If you have any info, it'd be helpful..... If you are interested in selling the housing you have,...let me know how much you think it's worth....<br>         regards,<br>         SGB </blockquote> RE: FE bell housing from FMX trans -- Steve Boulay, 06/19/2001
I'm working on engineering an adaptation of a late model AOD or AODE trans to an FE engine and I'm just trying to get a bell housing that separates from the automatic gear box (unlike a C6) as a staring point.
Is the FMX bell housing aluminum or iron/steel ?
I also considered working with a steel std. shift after-market blow shield, and a few other options as starting points.
If you have any info, it'd be helpful..... If you are interested in selling the housing you have,...let me know how much you think it's worth....
regards,
SGB
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6931&Reply=6925><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>RE: FE bell housing from FMX trans</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>Bryan McPherson, <i>06/19/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote> Wo you went way over my head.I'm a c-6 c-4 or 10 bolt topcover kinda guy.(Not so much on c-4)The biggest task I ever undertook was to make an adaptor to bolt a GM (if I can use those letters here without getting in trouble)to a Jeep tranny.I think the bell I have is aluminum,I'll have to take a closer gander at it,I don't pay much attention to fmx trannys.If it's what you need I'll take it off and post it in the classifieds to make it right with Mr.FoMoCo  </blockquote> RE: FE bell housing from FMX trans -- Bryan McPherson, 06/19/2001
Wo you went way over my head.I'm a c-6 c-4 or 10 bolt topcover kinda guy.(Not so much on c-4)The biggest task I ever undertook was to make an adaptor to bolt a GM (if I can use those letters here without getting in trouble)to a Jeep tranny.I think the bell I have is aluminum,I'll have to take a closer gander at it,I don't pay much attention to fmx trannys.If it's what you need I'll take it off and post it in the classifieds to make it right with Mr.FoMoCo
 RE: FE bell housing from FMX trans -- Steve Boulay, 06/25/2001
Have you had a chance to check to see if it's aluminum? If it is, send me a note regarding the price you'd like to get ...... and your location. We can correspond by E-Mail or via phone... let me know.
thanx,
SGB
 RE: FE bell housing from FMX trans -- bear, 06/19/2001
jpt transmissions out of michigan sell an FE bellhousing for a c-4 transmission. I have the number.

JPT inc.(jim's performance transmissions)
(517) 663-0578
FAX (517) 663-8207
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6921&Reply=6921><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>cobra weight</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>dale, <i>06/19/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>does any body know the weight of a 428 69 cobra formal roof  verses a sportsroof? </blockquote> cobra weight -- dale, 06/19/2001
does any body know the weight of a 428 69 cobra formal roof verses a sportsroof?
 See my response in Gen'l. Forum [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/19/2001
n/m
Collapse <a href=../ForumFE/reply.aspx?ID=6908&Reply=6908><img src=../images/reply.png width=30 height=10></a>&nbsp;<b>428 windage tray - oil pan bolts?</b>&nbsp;-- <font color=#0000ff>w. centlivre, <i>06/18/2001</i></font><br /><blockquote>I'm building a 428 cobra jet and plan on using a stock FE oil pan & the cobra jet widage tray.  What is the correct oil pan bolt to use with the windage tray?  I would think with the additional thickness of the windage tray and (1) extra oil pan gasket, Ford would have used a longer oil pan bolt.  Does anyone know the correct bolt lenght & usage? </blockquote> 428 windage tray - oil pan bolts? -- w. centlivre, 06/18/2001
I'm building a 428 cobra jet and plan on using a stock FE oil pan & the cobra jet widage tray. What is the correct oil pan bolt to use with the windage tray? I would think with the additional thickness of the windage tray and (1) extra oil pan gasket, Ford would have used a longer oil pan bolt. Does anyone know the correct bolt lenght & usage?
 RE: 428 windage tray - oil pan bolts? -- 32 valve, 06/18/2001
The correct bolts are 5/16x5/8 for all but the timing cover area. The correct ones for front that go into timing cover are 5/16 x 3/4 these are also the same as FE valve covers. The shorter ones also fit the 429 engines @ corners. They are avail new for complete pan set 18.00 they come with correct plating, length/size and also correct head style and markings. The correct ford color is S7 which is cadmium soft silver. hope that helps 32valve
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