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 |  14 Bolt Head Exhaust Gaskets -- Bryan McPherson, 06/18/2001
I am in need of some exhaust gaskets and heat sheilds for a 1967 390 Mustang with 14 bolt heads.I could use header gaskets but I would like to put it back as close as I can.Any ideas where I might find some? Thanks,Bryan |
|  | RE: 14 Bolt Head Exhaust Gaskets -- Royce Peterson, 06/18/2001
Your engine did not come with gaskets originally on the exhaust. Fel Pro makes one for this application but you will be better off installing the manifolds with no gasket. Use a thin coat of Silicone RTV sealant on the clean oil free bare metal mating surface and torque the bolts as per the shop manual. Hi temp RTV is unnecessary but wouldn't hurt, I use the black regular grade and it has never failed. Wipe off the stuff that squezes out before it dries for a factory stock appearance.
Good Luck,
Royce Peterson
68 Cougar 427 GTE(two of them)
68 1/2 Cougar 428CJ Ram Air |
| | | RE: 14 Bolt Head Exhaust Gaskets -- 32 valve, 06/18/2001
The best silicone to use is Ford F7AZ-19554-EA still avail at any Ford L-M Dealer. Another good silicone is Permatex 101BR Ultra Copper. And for Royce seeing as the cars you have were a dime a dozen (ok just kidding) I will take them off your hands. I had never heard of a 68 1/2 cougar cj!How many did they produce & is it a auto or 4spd? What condition are your 3 cars in & how long have you had them? 32valve |
| | | | RE: 14 Bolt Head Exhaust Gaskets -- Royce Peterson, 06/18/2001
Dear Mr. Valve,
The R Code is one of 101 XR-7's made with an automatic. It is a nice driver, looks restored from 20 feet but the paint is 20 years old and cracking in places. Runs great. I am planning to take it to the Pure Stock Drags in Michigan this fall. Should run high 13's if I drive it right.
The green W code is a restored car but the engine is not stock, has a '67 Fairlane MR intake with BJ - BK Holley 600's, Edelbrock heads and Hooker Super Comps. It is stroked to 449 CI. Really a blast to drive. Runs low 13's on street tires at 108.
The blue W code is in work. Just put a mostly stock 427 into it, original intake, carb, exhaust, smog, etc. I plan to restore it concours perfect original. It still has plenty of go. After the mechanicals are done I am taking it all apart for paint. Body is pretty good, has a small rust hole in one rear quarter and some spots in one floor pan to repair.
Royce Peterson |
| | | | | RE: 14 Bolt Head Exhaust Gaskets -- 32 valve, 06/18/2001
Royce, I saw your cars somewhere else on the web today The R code Cougar was in the middle with the GTe that needed refinishing on hood and roof on right. Great looking cars |
| | | | |  | RE: 14 Bolt Head Exhaust Gaskets -- Royce Peterson, 06/23/2001
Thanks,
I drive the R Code to work every day. It rules! People come up to me in almost every parking lot to ask me why the car sounds so good and then are astounded to hear that it has a 428 with factory Ram Air. My drive to work is only 4 1/2 miles so gas mileage is no problem at 11 - 12.
Royce Peterson
|
 | Bent pushrod -- T1M, 06/17/2001
I have a 68' Galaxie 500 with 390 2-V. I was torquing down the rocker arm assembly with the pushrods each in place( pretty sure anyway) and suddenly heard a metallic ping or snap. I loosed the rocker arm assembly enough to pull the rod out and it was bent. What did I do wrong? |
| | P. S. -- T1M, 06/17/2001
By the way, where can I get another pushrod? Autozone, Napa or something? |
| | | Re: p. S. -- R. Burner, 06/17/2001
As I remember sometimes the bow in the rail will cause a push rod to hang up and not compress the valve. (kind of like torquing a snap fit flange) I would think if you pulled it down evenly it would compress normally if not rotate the crank so the pressure will be releaved on the binding ones and tighten some more. and rotate again. NAPA might be you best bet. But, don't hurt to call AutoZone. you'll probably have to buy a set just to get one. |
| | | | RE: Re: p. S. -- Bill, 06/18/2001
Check Ford for the push rods, they are cheaper than you think. |
| | | |  | thanks :-) [n/m] -- T1M, 06/18/2001
[n/m] |
| | | | | Just my .02 -- Paul M, 06/18/2001
Last time I bought pushrods, I ordered 12 (for a 300-6 cylinder) and they gave me 16. Bonus for me!
Point I'm trying to make is, they came in boxes of 4, and I got one extra box, by mistake.
This was at NAPA, but I don't know if other stores sell them this way or not. |
| | | | | | RE: Just my .02 -- 32 valve, 06/18/2001
Push rods are avail 1 at a time. The only way to bend a push rod is if its not in place when torquing shaft down. It was most likely on edge of lifter and when it started to bend the ping noise you heard was it slipping off edge of lifter and into bore or to block side. The proccess of installing shaft assy takes awhile as to do it evenly. If installing or removing it is very easy to bend shaft if not done evenly. |
| | RE: Bent pushrod -- Rice B., 06/19/2001
Also, when buying the pushrods make sure the are the correct length. Their are serveral different sizes with about .050 differents so I've be told. |
| | | RE: Bent pushrod -- T1M, 06/19/2001
I'm ordering them through Murrays discount auto parts store and I'm ordering just one for $4.29 before tax. They wanted me to specify intake or exhaust but I've looked at all my pushrods and they ALL seem to be the same size for my 68' Galaxie's 390 2-V and I'm sure some of them that used to be for the intake are now operating as exhaust pushrods so I just flipped a coin and ordered an intake pushrod. |
| | | | RE: Bent pushrod and not put back in same spot? -- Craig M., 06/20/2001
T1M, I am afraid you might have a oiling problem with pushrod not put back in the same spot. If they won't spin they won't oil. Each lifter/rocker/pushrod wears a certain pattern and if not put back in the exact same spot will most of the time cause oiling problems (due to the pushrod not spinning) and clakking or chattering valve train. I hope I'm wrong for your sake, but this has happen to me before when I accidently got a couple in the wrong holes. You'll just have to watch the valve train in motion and make sure all the pushrods spin and oil the rocker assembly. Maybe some one else will respond with a different view. |
| | | | | RE: Bent pushrod ?? oil problem? dont think so!! -- kevin, 06/20/2001
If you bent a pushrod when you bolted the rocker shaft down, you did not follow Ford engine assembly procedure correctly. You must find #1 TDC and then turn engine 45 more degrees so it is halfway between #1 and #5 TDC. This places the least amount of strain on the rocker shaft assemblys. Be careful when you tighten them down and only go a 1/4 turn at a time on the bolts and watch the ends of the pushrods so they dont slip out. Make sure you dont mix up any more than you have to and try to install pushrods in same way they came out, and remember that the long bolt goes in the deep hole only (this is where the oil comes up to the shaft around the "skinny" bolt) good luck |
| | | | | | RE: dont think so!! -- Craig M., 06/20/2001
So what you are saying he won't have any problems with the valve train when he mixed up the lifter/pushrod/rocker combination. Well, I hope he don't have any trouble, but wear patterns and the ability of the pushrods to spin has been greatly reduced and if not corrected will cause early valve train wear or failure not to mention the nosiy ticking sound we all hate. Just my opinion what do you think. |
| | | | | | | RE: dont think so!! -- AL, 06/23/2001
Craig is spot on right. If you mix up the pushrods and get them in the wrong holes thare IS A PROABLEM with oiling and vale train noise. I took down my '69 360 and during reassembly I got pushrods mixed up. Upon visual inspection I said, "Aww , there all the same.....at least they all look the same." As Craig has pointed out, this error resulted in an oiling proablem and a loud valve train. It took me HOURS to get them right again and I surley learned a valuable lesson. As for reassembly.....when you get the pushrods right then tighten down in 1/4 turns until the clacking stops then give it one (1) more 1/4 turn. If you have the intake manifold off during this job then do it with it off. Easier since you dont have to lean over a running engine and get oil all over your hands and shirt. |
| | | | | | | | RE: dont think so!! -- RC Moser, 06/24/2001
Al, I hole hardly agree, except for the 1/4 turn part, which is good advice for SBCs or a adjustable valve train. FE's Except for the early solid lift engine have a non-adjustable valve train, you simply bolt the rail in place. There is really no way to get the slack out except replace the worn parts or bad lifters or in some cases get a longer pushrod. I too have mixed up the pushrod early in my knuckle busting career and like you spent hours figuring it out. Hopefully, others will not have to go through that agrevation. This is a good thread seems everybody has ideas on this subject. later |
| | RE: Bent pushrod -- Bryan McPherson, 06/20/2001
The only time I bent A push rod in an FE is because the engine had sit for a while and had a stuck valve.But if you heard a ping it might not have been in the groove. |
| | | RE: Bent pushrod -- Bill, 06/21/2001
I bought a set of 16 from Ford for around $15 (they give me a discount) and did not have to worry. Already spent close to $1500 what is $15 to 20. With new push rods no worries. Bill |
| | | | RE: Bent pushrod -- T1M, 06/21/2001
I've done this procedure before and just tried to be careful and everything went fine, and I've driven the car with the pushrods functioning NOT in their original lifter locations for quite sometime. I'm not saying you don't have a valid point about spinning rods but , it's odd to me because I've never had a problem like this before. My engine has been sitting all winter and not run. I stuck all the rods on their lifters and rotated the crank as an experiment to make sure each one was in place and moving; the one that bent would not move ( I replaced it with another of my remaining pushrods) and I'm pretty sure it was on the lifter. Is it possible from all the time sitting that this lifter has simply rusted stiff? It's hard to believe that the torquing down of the rocker arm assembly wouldn't have freed it up if it was. I dont' think I can stand to take the intake off and remove and brand new set of FelPro gaskets (again) just to get a better view of it. The passenger side bank of the engines rocker arm bolted down with no problem, however, I placed each rod on the lifter FIRST and then placed the rocker arm assembly in place and torqued it down; maybe that's what I need to do for the drivers side of the engine.
I'll look into the oiling problem idea as well.
Thanks for all your help |
| | | | | RE: Bent pushrod -- Lou, 06/22/2001
In responce to Bent Rod. When an engines sits around for a long time, the lifters Bleed down. You should spin oil pump shaft with a good drill to pump up the Lifters first before tightening down Rockers. |
| | | | | | RE: Bent pushrod -- T1M, 06/24/2001
whooops, I have already tightened down the rocker arm assembly. Should I loosen it and spin the oil pump and then re-tighten it? How do I spin the oil pump by the way? Through the hole where the distributor sits? And, how can I possibly find the correct location for each pushrod now that they're all mixed up? I see your point about wear patterns but what can I do? They all look alike! Help!! |
| | | | | | | RE: How much slop is in them after tighten? -- RC Moser, 06/24/2001
Only thing you can do is start it up with the valve covers of and watch them. If they don't spin write down which ones don't and start swapping or replace them with new ones, Hopefully you won't have any that don't rotate. also, watch the oil flow, usually make a mess a old towel or cardboard deflector around the bottom of the head will reduce the amount of oil getting on the exhaust. Can't stop it completely. Remember a little oil makes alot of smoke so don't be alarmed it mosquito's start dropping like flies if you get my meaning. To prime the oil system you will proabably have to remove the dist. either have a old dist shaft that you can hook a drill up to to spin it fast enough to make the oil flow ( or you could try to squirt some oil down the pushrod hole directly onto the lifters maybe it will fill or remove any air by pushing on the pushrod working the lifter) . Unless you have a real sloppy pushrod after tighten it will probably be OK to just start it. Most will through the lifters in a can of oil while removed, this keeps them primed till installation. I have dissassembled new ones and put oil in them then worked them with a phillips screw driver to ensure they were pumped up. But, dropping them in a can of fresh clean oil for a while does the trick. , if they don't work just replace them, as somebody said only a few more dollars. Hope this help's, RC |
| | | | | | | | RE: How much slop is in them after tighten? -- Lou, 06/30/2001
To T1M, If the Distributor is in already, Put #1 Piston to TDC, Take Distributor out and spin the oil pump with a drill. You can buy the shaft That Adapts to your existing Shaft on the pump, 302 Adaptor Saft is 1/4". The 351 shaft is bigger. You need a good drill, my drill from sears is 5 1/2 amps. Keep spinning the drill `til you see oil dripping down from your springs. Your Lifters should be pumped up at this point. Lou. |
| | | | | RE: Bent pushrod -- AL, 06/23/2001
Is this engine in a vehicle? If it is and it has thousands of miles of wear then proper push rod placement is a must. Valve trains do get wear patterns.If this is a rebuild or the engine has few miles on it the you wouldnt notice the difference between pushrods when there identical for exhaust and intake valves. If its been sitting up all winter then the lifters have bled down and you need to pump them up or let them pump up. Its not something you always think of but if its not done then you face a serious chance of bending one or more push rods,collapsing the lifters, causing premature wear, and spending several sleepless nights and worried days in perplexed anguish over a small oversight |
| | Been there done that -- Ross, 06/23/2001
If you tighten the rockers too quickly, especially using an air ratchet, the oil doesnt escape from the lifter fast enough and will bend the pushrod. Check EVERY one, you may have another bent one. Next time go slowly |
| | RE: Cheap holder idea, I sure othershave done it. -- RC Moser, 06/23/2001
When tearing down a old valve train I found that you can get a cardboard box or a 4 by 4 block of wood cut to about 2'. punch or drill holes and label them right bank/left bank, intake and exhaust. Now put you push rods in as you take them out and be careful not to drop or spill. The box works the best unless you drill the holes in the 4 by 4 close to the exact size of the rod. But the 4 by 4s are reusable. Now for the lifters and rockers.( Naturally FEs are on a bar) get a empty egg crate box and number them as mentioned above. Now this should keep them seperated till you are ready to intall them if your careful. I have found that all engine are this way especially SBCs. I know thats a bad word around hear, but they all have wear patterns when they have alot of miles on them. As Al suggested if they are new then if probably don't matter. Notice I said probably.. |
| 2X4 Air cleaner -- joe, 06/17/2001
I have this air cleaner that i think is off a 427 FORD with dual fours the top lid has raised grooves that go down the middle than stop 3/4 of the way , the bottom grooves are cut in the shape of an emblem the grooves do not continue on their is no part no.on the lid or lower half. Thanks for your help |
| re: 65 galaxie price -- richard, 06/17/2001
i have seen pictures of a 65 galaxie and would like to hear your opinions on the price. the car is red/red, 390, 4sp, p/s. it looks good from the pics but i have not yet seen the car in person.
the price listed is 3800.00. what do you people think about that?? |
| Grant Dual Point/Dual Coil Distributor -- Tony, 06/15/2001
I would like to know if anybody can give me any info. on this distributor? It came off of an FE. It does not have a distributor cap, four spark plug wires and a coil wire push into each side. It looks like a Mag., but it is not. Under the top cover there is a set of Ford points. Thanks for all of your help.
 |
| | RE: Grant Dual Point/Dual Coil Distributor -- BOB HOPKINS, 06/15/2001
I think it's beautiful looks just like the one on my 427" in my 57 with cable drive tach,an antique just like me.
Works good as any point style dist.hard to find parts for though! Early 60's technolgy to inprove coil output two coils feeding 4 cylinders more time for coil voltageto fire plugs, you can update with electronic point replacement parts and retain nostalgia look. |
| 9" rear help in Cincinnati area -- Royce Peterson, 06/15/2001
Can anyone recommend a rear end specialist in the Cincinnati, OH area? I want to install a new set of gears and a Detroit Locker behind one of my 427's.
Royce Peterson
68 Cougar GTE 427 (two of them)
68 1/2 XR-7 428 CJ R-Code |
| 390 FE Electronic Ignition Conversion -- David Dorrough, 06/15/2001
I have a 72 Ford F100 that I want to convert to the DuraSpark electronic ignition. I am looking for information on the wiring harness and how it should be hooked up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
|
| | RE: 390 FE Electronic Ignition Conversion -- richard, 06/15/2001
ok you have two factory conectors one with two prongs and one with four prongs. the two prong connector is the power in. you can hook that one up two ways.
1: tie the red and white wires together and splice them in to the power wire coming from the ignition switch to the coil +. the green wire from the 4 prong connector goes to the coil -.
2: run a wire from the ing side of the starter solenoid to the white wire, and take the wire that you removed from the ing stud and connect it to one of the red wires on the tow prong connector. everything else hooks up the same way. hope this helps. |
| | | RE: 390 FE Electronic Ignition Conversion -- richard, 06/15/2001
an easier conversion, unless you already have the parts, would be the pertronix ignitor. they have the ignitor 2 out now which is better than the original. and it still bolts in place of the points. you might consider this option. |
| | | | RE: 390 FE Electronic Ignition Conversion -- gerry, 06/15/2001
I agree with Richard on this one, David. A conversion of your existing distributor to Pertronix or Mallor Unilite is a much easier proposition and will generally be cheaper and in many cases, more reliable. |
| | | | | RE: 390 FE Electronic Ignition Conversion -- BOB HOPKINS, 06/15/2001
why not take a trip to local bone yard find a 75-76 360-390 F-100 remove dist. and the ing. brainbox from left fender and under hood wiring harness. Take it home strip the harness of unnecessary wiring and use factory wires to conect to same places as was on car/truck you removed it from. As for relability I have 275,000 miles on my 75-390" pickemup ond only one inigition failure, the aftermarket Crane point conversion to electronic kit in my has quit 3 times in10,000 miles and I carry the old set of points to cit me home.
MY $0.02 |
| | RE: 390 FE Electronic Ignition Conversion -- David Dorrough, 06/15/2001
Thanks for all the information. I had thought about something like the Unilite or something from MSD, but I already have the Duraspark hardware.
Anyway, thanks again for your help.
David Dorrough |
| | | RE: 390 FE Electronic Ignition Conversion -- richard, 06/16/2001
it's tough to beat the factory ignition for reliablity. |
| 67' Fairlane GT -- wildbill, 06/15/2001
I have the chance to buy a 67' Fairlane GT w/ the original 390/ C6 combo. I looked at the car the other day and it looks to be in damn good shape. All glass is still intact and the interier is in excellent condition, no rust that I can see. All in all, it looks to be in great original condition. But from first glance, the car looked like it came from a junk yard. The tires are flat, the hood is off and it looked like it could use a good wash. Anyway, he told me that the motor has been rebuilt. Some kind of special intake on the motor and other mods like ARP rod bolts and the like. There are other parts that will be thrown in with the deal, like an extra grill, a louverd hood and some interier pieces. $3500 is what he's wanting and nothing less. The thing is, the engine and tranny is not installed and he don't want to seperate them from the car. I just want the car, less the engine and tranny. Can you guys tell me if I would be getting my money's worth if I bought it? Thanks to all who reply. |
| | RE: 67' Fairlane GT -- RC Moser, 06/15/2001
Wildbill, If the body is in great shape (meaning it's been stored inside) and all the pieces are their and you want it bad, then it's worth it. The rebuilt drive train is icing on the cake. He's probably got close to $3500 in the drive train. Course this all depends on your ability to put it togather and do most of the work yourself to make it affordable. 66 and 67 fairlane make neat looking hot rods and it will turn heads no matter how you dress it up. Just my opinion, I kind of like those years of fairlane's and to me if you find one in great shape it's a good deal if you can afford it. After all not too many GT's left. |
| | | RE: 67' Fairlane GT -- richard, 06/15/2001
while i really like the 66-67 fairlane hardtops, i have to ask is what is esentially a basket case car, even though the drive train is rebuilt, worth 3500.00?? if you like the car, and the car is worth restoring, or restmoding, and you feel the price is right, then buy it. to me it sounds a little high but close. |
| | 67' Fairlane GT -- Orin, 06/15/2001
Here is a "value estimate" I picked off of Woody Gummo's Fairlane site (data is from 1999):
1967
Fairlane GT
Condition #1------# 2 -----# 3 ------# 4 -----# 5 -----# 6
2dr HT = 9000 -- 6300 -- 3600 -- 1800 -- 1080 -- 450
2dr Conv = 17,000 -- 11,900 -- 6800 -- 3400 -- 2050 -- 650
Use the 30-foot rule here, i.e. if from 30 feet away the car has no visible defects it is probably a number 3 car. Judging from your description the car is at best in number 4 condition, making it worth at most about $1,800, according to this list. If the engine and tranny are a fresh rebuild -- less than 12 months, 5K miles? -- then I say the car is worth the asking price.
However, judging from your comments ("I just want the car, less the engine and tranny. ") it sounds like you have other plans for the drive train. A 427? A 460, maybe? So all you really want is a '67 Fairlane GT body, right?
Now may be the time to ask yourself: "Why am I buying THIS car?"
It appears you have a chance at buying a matching numbers car, which increases its value for some people. There are not too many of these left, so my personal prejudice is to restore them back to "original."
If you want to modify a 66-67 Fairlane into something it never was you may want to look at a different car, maybe one that has already been modified and then you can with a clear conscience add your own personal touches. There are a lot out there, usually in the $10K range, plus or minus.
A straight body means a lot -- body work is VERY expensive unless you can do it yourself.
A good interior is a major plus. A replacement interior (door panels, seat covers, headliner etc.) runs about $1,700 just for parts.
There are a lot of vendors out there that make Fairlane stuff so replacement parts are not that hard to find. Also, some Mustang stuff (wheels, steering wheels, engine badges etc.) are interchangable, another plus.
Bottom line: If you plan to restore a '67 Fairlane GT back to "original", you're looking at a really good candidate. If you plan to modify it significantly, look for something else. JMHO.
Orin -- '67 Fairlane 500XL, 289/auto
|
| | | RE: 67' Fairlane GT -- Tim B, 06/15/2001
Here's some info from NADA:
Total Low Retail: $5,168
Total Average Retail: $9,263
Total High Retail: $14,040
There is a major plus in adding the 390 over the base 289.
That does not include #1 show cars.
I agree with Orrin's comments.
They aren't as common as Mustangs. Unfortunately, like Cougars, they have been used as "donor" cars to Mustangs. For that reason alone I think they should be restored to their proper splendor :-)
Post a pic if you can.
Tim B
1969 XR7 428 CJR convertible
http://members.aol.com/timbrands/index.html |
| | | | RE: 67' Fairlane GT -- wildbill, 06/16/2001
I will talk to the guy sometime over the course of the weekend and try to get a few pics. I originaly wanted to put a 351c 4v in it, but originality is a big plus for me. The money thing is not a problem , I could give him the money right now if I wanted to, but I wanted to see what the thing could be worth first. My first thought was that the asking price was too much, but judging from everyones comments, its a steal. Like you guys said, he probably has that much in the engine and tranny alone. From what he explained to me, it sounded like he had at least $3000 into the rebuild. Sad thing is he just don't want to seperate the two. If he can get it in running condition, then I would buy it. I don't know. Thanks for everyones comments. I will keep you posted. |
| | | | | your forgetting..... -- FE427TP, 06/16/2001
you can re-sell the engine, just ask for as many reciepts as he will give you, if you get $1000 for the engine your $3500 dollar car just became $2500 or so on, making it a better deal for you |
| | | | | RE: 67' Fairlane GT -- 32 valve, 06/16/2001
Wildbill, I have been buying restoring,selling the 66-67 comets and fairlanes for over 20yrs a nice body with only minor dings and no rust less engine and tranny is easily worth 2000.00. Remember people are paying 750.00 & up for just a 1/4 panel from these cars. If the interior is complete, buckets,console,dash pad the car is worth 4000.00 less engine and tranny. Most of these cars you find the people always say the engine and trans are rebuilt. Make sure you find out from them exactly whats been done. Ask for receipts on bore, pistons,cam/lifters etc. to make sure its not just a coat of paint or a timing chain & a few gaskets. Whats rebuilt to one person normally does not mean rebuilt the way most people see it. If it has a fresh 390 or even a rebuildable gt 390 engine use it vs the cleveland as it will run circles around the small block and be worth much more value to the car. The big block fords fit these cars better than the cleveland engines anyway. The 9000.00 listed for a number 1 66-67 fairlane gt is way off base. I am dealing on one now for a customer at 15,500 & the person is not excited about selling it. I have a good friend here who just paid 8,000.00 for a 289 2v auto car & he thinks he got a good deal. The 390 Gt cars will bring near or more than double of a small block car. Check with owner to see if it has the original carb, dist, air cleaner,valve covers etc as all very expensive items to replace. The console alone is worth 500.00 or more by itself by all means if it is rust free buy it. What state/city are you located? |
| | RE: 67' Fairlane GT -- Mike McQuesten, 06/18/2001
I finally have to add my .02 on this one. Mostly because I'm a huge fan of the '66/'67 Fairlane. I bought one new in '66 and have owned many of them. It's a GT/A. It has the right power train, i.e., the uni-body heads? It's got the 9" right? 1967 Fairlane GTs were standard with a C-code 289. So this car is the desirable S code. The 1967 is rarer than the '66 (I can't remember the production numbers but I do know there were a lot fewer '67 390 Fairlanes over '66 .... the big FE was available in the Mustang for '67). So.....from what you've described, it's worth $3,500. Buy it and put that FE or another good one in it. Add a Crites 427 style hood and you have a fabulous Fairlane. |
| | | 67' Fairlane GT -- Orin, 06/19/2001
Mike is correct, there were a lot fewer 67 GT/GTAs than in 1966. In fact, there were just about twice as many 66s as 67s.
The numbers from Woody Gummo's site are:
1966 GT/GTA
Hardtop: 33,015, Convertable: 4,327
1967 GT/GTA
Hardtop: 18,670, convertable 2,117
|
| | its on ebay . . . -- Orin, 06/19/2001
Wildbill:
If all you want is a 67 hardtop body, there is one on ebay! Judging from the pix it is not a GT/GTA, but rather a 500 that had a 289 and the guy dropped in a set of buckets. The buckets would indicate it was a 500XL, but the grill badge does not say "XL" nor is there a trunk "XL" badge, and there is no center console. Also, the interior appears to be a different color.
And the bidding is starting at only $350!!
Let us know how it turns out.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=592548092 |
| I need help identifying an FE engine -- Steve Boulay, 06/14/2001
I have a few numbers from the block....I hope they are enough to I.D. the engine in question.
There are the numbers 32 above the numbers 352 on the left front of the block. (cast in raised numbers) There's E1 and what appears to be 832 on the oil filter mount pad,(also raised number cast in), and there's 50160 stamped into the rear oil pan rail on the left side near the bell housing.
Any help will be appreciated...
thx.
SGB |
| | Check behind alternator for cast ID #s [n/m] -- Mr F, 06/15/2001
n/m |
| | | RE: Check behind alternator for cast ID #s [n/m] -- Steve Boulay, 06/15/2001
Could I be looking in the wrong place, or would it possibly be marked somewhere else? I'm really curious to find out if this is what it's "supposed" to be.
Let me know what you think.
Thx,
SGB |
| | | | Block casting number is usually in front of the st -- 32 valve, 06/16/2001
Block casting number is usually in front of starter but a lot of blocks did not have casting numbers on them. Check the intake manifold,heads,exhaust manifolds for casting numbers and or date codes. This will tell you very close to what year engine you have it will be then much easier to determine what cube it is. Look between the center 2 spark plugs for the casting number on cyl heads by this I can tell you what they are from (cube & year) look at casting number and date of other components also to see if anything is missmatched if not it is quite easy to tell just what it is. Is it a 2v or 4v engine?
What is the bolt pattern on the heads? What is the date & number of the distributor? Is it a auto or stick? Does it have the tranny with it? If so what is the number on the little metal tag? Auto and manual will both be on right side. Manual between rt side bolts (to bellhousing) auto is usually attatched to servo cover. we need a little more info to help you out> 32valve |
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