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The stock 390 unibody exhaust manifolds are bad for performance. As for difference in horsepwer: Expect your smile to go away. If you gotta use cast iron, you want to use CJ manifolds - they fit by redrilling the top manifold hole at the #8 cylinder, not possible when in the car.

As for headers, you've got one primary choice if you've got C6AE-J, C6AE-U, C7AE-A, or C8AE-H (you've got these) or D2TE-AA heads: FPA (fordpowertrain.com). They make a quality header which fits the "emissions era" exhaust runner and also offer great ground clearance.

If you've got C6AE-R heads (1966-67 only), 428CJ heads, Edelbrock heads, or '65-earlier heads, you've got some more choices, including Hooker (poor ground clearance) and FPA (the pre-emissions version of the header).

Headers awaken an FE - you don't want to go back to iron. I can't think of any shorty style headers, though I'm sure someone makes them.

JMO,
Shoe.

ethanol will damage some rubber's and some plastic's but these are easily replaceable. every thing else is unchanged except the carb. you need to richen up the carb as you will run about 1.6 times more alcohol than gas.some of the things you will need to replace are
1: rubber fuel lines. there are alcohol resistant lines available. check with your local speed shop.
2: fuel filters with plastic housings and elements. there are good aftermarket units with sintered metal filters. just remember to keep them clean or else you will lose fuel flow more rapidly than usual.
3: the needle and seat in the carb. viton is not designed for alcohol. replace it with a steel needle and seat. they are available for most carbs. again check the local speed shop.
4: you can run a little more timing than with gas as alcohol burns colder than gas. as a side benefit it will be easier to pass emissions as the sensors do not read the exhaust gasses as again alcohol burns colder than gas.(tip here for you gas guys if you have to pass emissions and aare having trouble, run your tank down to 1/4 full and dump in about 5 gallons of alcohol then full the tank and drive to the emission station for testing. you should pass with flying colors.)

if you dont want to go through the hassle of rejeting your caarb, you can get one already done from barry grant and others. you might find starting the car on a cold morning harder than with gas, and you will need to run a fuel additive to prevent gas line freeze. also remember that alcohol is hydroscopic. that means is absorbes water. gas does not. just be aware of these items and you shhould have no problems.

I live in an area with a 10% ethanol blend, and this is the story around here anyways. In general there isn't too much of a problem, except because of the oxygenates it take more fuel to produce the same power as "normal" gasoline. As far as eating rubber, there is a slight problem. The first problem is in your gas tank. If your tank is old, that alcohol will really start to clean it out, and all the rust sediment, etc will end up in your fuel filter. The second problem is that old fuel line and carburetor. If you have an old carburetor the alcohol will eat it up in no time, and you'll be rebuilding. I havn't heard of many repeat rebuilds due to the blended gas, but your carburetor will obviously need more frequent maintance. If you have a choice, get "normal gas" and stay away from the "specially blended for cleaner air" stuff. If nothing else, you'll get better gas milage, and every little bit helps.

I beleve the springs are interchangeable, but measure them.
This rig should be able to pull the trailer in question if it has a auto trans but not running in overdrive.

Thanks guys for all the info. Sounds like I should get an F 250-350 for 5th wheel haulin. My '69 is LWB and had a beffier spring optioned on from the factory but I believe a bigger truck is the way to go. Hey has any body heard any good things about the fuel injection setup for FE's from Speed Pro?

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Yes. The Borg Warner T-85 Overdrive transmission was used by Ford as far back as 1949 in the big Lincolns. It was used throughout the fifties and sixties in heavy duty apps not only by Ford but by GM and Chrysler as well. It was offered as an option at least through '68 FE powered pick ups for sure. It's a very rugged transmission. Most high performance 352/390s of '60-'61 were optioned with this system. There were a few HPs built without the Overdrive.

I have a toploader 4spd that 4th is overdrive( about .73:1). I looks just like a standard toploader except there is no regular pad on the tail shaft for the shifter.It came out of a '79 F100 with a 302. I am planning on putting it in my 66 Galaxie With a 428. I currently have 4spd so it should not be too difficult a swap. I will have to make a bracket to mount my shifter though.

Yes, and don't limit yourself to '64. I have a '66 F-100 with a T-85N Warner overdrive. The entire OD system is original, including solenoid, governor, relays and wiring harness.
Warner made the T-85 and T-85N. The 85 is a plain 3 speed, and the 85N is the same 3-speed, but has the overdrive. The main gearbox is the same, but the N has a short ouput shaft (into the OD gearbox) rather than a long one. I'm told the OD gearbox can be used on the plain 85 if the OD output shaft is used.
Finally, don't limit yourself to Fords. Warner sold the T-85N to Nash, Rambler, GM. Hudson and more. the only difference was in the wiring connectors, the wiring harness, kickdown/no kickdown switch, etc, and possibly the solenoid and governor.
Warner made up the harnesses for the customer based upon their specs. I saw one in a '63 Chevy years ago, and wish I had snagged it as a spare.

I neglected to mention that my T-85N is on the backside of a 2V 352, and has outlasted both the engine and the rear-end pumpkin.

The E-brock Performer 390 is an excellent choice along with their 750 carb or an autolite 4100 - 1.12 - 600 CFM is great too. Check out that way long discussion on the 4100! I'm assuming your Galaxie is an automatic so make sure you get a carb with kickdown provision. Edelbrock sells this kit to go with their carbs. Since this Galaxie is mainly for street use you'll want a high torque cam for strong bottom end power, the Edelbrock performer is again a great choice. I personally still like the old smoothy C6OZ-6250B cam, which is the '66-'68 GT 390 and 428 CJ shaft. A good electronic ignition and FPA/Crites headers(Of course the '65-up Galaxie 427 exhaust manifolds are nice but they're bringing big bucks.) A stock '66 428 moved these cars nicely but the improvements you plan will really make some power.

I would use a PI intake. It makes better power that the performer.

I think that's a '66 428 Police Interceptor. Thermostat housing attached on each end?

1966-7 PI after 11/1/66.

He must of had it internally balanced or it will probably blow the bottom end out. Seen several examples in the junk yards that someone had switch the engine (352/360/390) and put a 428 in but used the wrong flexplate. Most had broken rods, granated pistons with holes in the pan. It would probably run at a low RPM. Usually leakage at the rear main is a first sign. But, I no expert, maybe someone else will know for sure!

If you run it for extended periods of time, it'll eventually rattle everything loose. Unless it's been internally balanced. Look for holes drilled, then filled, with another metal. (Mallory)

The hatchet spacer is for SCJ engines.

Who knows, maybe it offsets the missing c'weight from the flywheel.

Then again, maybe that lumpitty sound is just the cam.

I don't know if you are looking for economy or what, but you won't earn your money back buying those "fuel saving" parts.
How much power and drivability are you looking for?
I could then give you more detailed specs.

What do you know about the fuel injection setup for FE's from Speed Pro?