this is prob one of the cheapest and most noticlble upgrade you can make. the only negative thing i can possibly say is if it ever breaks down (which odds are very low) its hard to find parts for it in the middle of nowhere. points can be found vertually everywhere. but other then that my milage increase by 4 miles to the gal. which is considerable since i only get 11 when im nice. which is very hard to do.

Installed one on my 390GT. Works fine, engine pulls hard through 5000 rpm with no misfire, no plug fouling. I do have hard hot start problem, spit back, pop through carb, but probably some cause other than pertronix.

According to the 1958 Ford shop manual, both the 332 and the 352 got an .026" valve lash on both the intake and exhaust side, and it was the same spec whether the engine was hot or cold.

Shoe.

If they belong to an FE, I'm certain they are either C6AE-R (66-67 only) or C8AE-H (68-71 only) castings.

What car did they come out of, and did the center two cylinders leave the lower exhaust manifold holes undrilled? Also, are the top exhaust manifold holes for cyls 1 and 4 offset downward about 5/16" when compared to the normally positioned top holes at cyls 2 and 3?

What's the date code near the center of the head by the valve springs?

Shoe.

Should be early 428 CJ heads according to books I have. 4 bolt holes per exhaust port.

I built a 390hipo out of a 1968 GT Torino(335hp).
it had 16 bolt holes per manifold.My dads 1966 GTA Fairlane convertable( 390hipo335hp)also has 16 bolt holes per manifold.The head has 8 holes (top/bottom)
and 8 holes (diagonally).The regular FE head has only
8 bolt holes (top/bottom).I understand the 428 CJ and police intercepter heads had 12 bolts(4 on ends and 2 in center ports.hope this helps........fordsforever

I think if I had these heads I would measure the size of the valves, intake/exhaust ports, cc the combustion chambers, check valve spring spec's and then use them if they fit the need at hand. I,ve not seen the head number mentioned before, but who knows, maybe some RARE bird!!
Robert

Have you checked with a reputable exhaust repair/building business? A local shop here in remote northwest Spokane, WA, Doc's Muffler, has always been able to use a flange he has in stock. I'm going from memory here but I had the exhaust system on and off my '61 'liner numerous times for engine changes and what I remember is a solid flat flange retainer that squeezed a sealing donut with a tin liner/flange inside that donut. It wasn't fabricated by Doc, it was something he had in stock. This guy does fabricate all kinds of systems for Street Rods, Muscle Cars and classics. So a good, experienced shop should be able to provide you with what you need.

Sounds great. Those F70s are going to roast! big time. With the traction problems I'll guess and say it will be hard to get lower than 12s, at least give it a chance with some narrow cheater slicks. Keep us posted, sound like you've got one rare Haley's their...Nothing like a 427 especially is such rare form.

Cool info! The "rear wheel" horsepower numbers of your 10.0:1 version of the MR appear to correlate well with Ford's published "crankshaft" numbers for the MR motor.

The various twin carb 427s were rated at:
427LR 425HP @ 6000RPM
427MR 485HP @ 6000RPM
427HR 540HP @ 6300RPM
427SOHC 657HP @ 8300RPM

Note: The SOHC rating I list is for the "Second Series" Cammer, the first series Cammer "prototype" (as planted in that famous '64 Galaxie) only came in a single carb version. Note that a different Cammer chart I've seen stops at 8500RPM and shows the twin carb Cammer passing through the power peak. Don't consider my writings as "fact" until you see the info from the original source.

Info shown below is available to anyone for $13.51 (includes shipping - $11.51 to members) from www.sae.org in the 21 page "427 SOHC papers written by the designers of the Cammer. SAE paper number is 650497. Delivery about one week. The "8500RPM charts" are not part of this document, and I believe were published by different authors.

Charts below represent the second series Cammer in both single and dual carb configs, as well as the dual carb 427HR.

Shoe.

400 rear wheel hp is real good, thats 470hp at the flywheel.
And its cool how its is from an almost exactly stock (except for lower compression and .030 bore) 427.

I've got a MR that I'm pulling out of a race car that is similar. Which piston did you use? I'm pulling the 12.5:1's out of the engine and going with something around 10:1. Thanks for the info.
Rusty

There's just one thing I gotta say 'bout this: It's so refreshing to see such a car, being put on the line to do what it was born to do....RUN! Good luck to you Arthur. Have fun, shift hard, don't let up. One more thing..as has been mentioned, you will boil those tires. Hopefully you've got traction devices installed (bars/cal tracs). Otherwise you will wind those leaf springs up and bounce like a jack rabbit.

Sounds great. If it has hit 100 degrees, you must not be anywhere near Ohio. Too bad, cause if you get the 427 to hook up, you just might show the Mopar and Bowtie bunch something at the Pure Stock Drags, in Salem Ohio on June 15-16.
I have a friend who has a 19701/2 429SCJ Falcon, with 30000+ miles, but he won't consider running it hard anymore.

Guess what..I'm going through the same thing. I have a std bore 428cj that had a little surface rust. It was measured at about the same wear but once it was bead blasted and magnafluxed it was found to have .010 wear at the top of the cylinders. I was told to take it to .020 over. You can get .020 over from KB Silvolite part # 1138. It is a replacement typre piston..so it is cast. If you want forged you will need to get .030 over or custom. Unless you plan on using forced induction or run high hp, the cast will be fine...afterall that is what survived in the blocks for all those years. I am just going to take mine .020 over along with line honing, balancing, etc.
If it ever needs a rebuild I will just have to take it to .030 over. If you think about it, custom .010 over aren't worth the high $$ over a .020 over cast piston unless it will be raced. If you have any other questions just email me.

thanks for the info guys

Where's the kick down lever/rod system located on your car? Cruisomatics in early sixties Galaxies ran a wonderful system off the bellcrank mounted on the back left side of the intake. There's no need for a kick-down accessory on your E-brock carb. I "think" '65 was when the clunky kick-down rod that ran all the way to the carb came into the picture. Other than making sure your kick-down is working properly there's no other synchronization that I'm aware of. That is if all is working smoothly with the new carb. If there are bogs? hesitations? stumbles? Then you'll have to read that little booklet that came with the carb carefully and tinker a little with metering rods, step up springs and jetting. All of which are very easy to do with the Edelbrock which is little more than the tried and true Carter AFB (Aluminum Four Barrel).

From 1966-on, part numbers cast into FE blocks mean't nothing. Date codes, foundry symbols, time stamps, and rear-face weld beads (chicken scratches) tended to be correct, however.
Ford seemed to share the various core patters for teir blocks to the extent that only the cylinder cores and maincap web cores seemed to differ. The only thing you could be sure of from the cast-in part number is it was cast on-or-after that year.

The best way to ID a C8 block is to look at it's rear face. Covered up by the flywheel is a "chicken scratch" may be a chicken scratch character about two inches tall, sometimes sideways, apparently scratched into the sand or, more correctly, welded into the casting pattern. If the character is an "A" you have a 1968 428plain or early 428CJ block without the reinforced mains and cylinders. If it's a "C" you have a reinforced 1968-70 428PI, CJ, or SCJ block. If there are no chicken scratch characters, its a 360/390 block.

I repeat: any C6, C7, or C8 block identifiers could mean anything. C5 and earlier is a different story. Life was so much easier in those pre-emission controls days.

JMO,
Shoe.

I found the C8ME-A # on a block the man said was a 390. My book said it was a 428, but the 2v made me question that. Pulled a plug and checked the stroke-it was a 352 stroke. Shoe is correct--can't trust the later casting numbers

Help!
where can i find 390 fe crank & rod numbers?

must identify bones in the dry storage!

Ford Edsel...

Do the Bowtie and Mopar guys have squabbles like this over their engines' names and histories?
It sure helps pass the time during a slow day at the office :-)

n/m

Yes, for some reason I think 289/271 Mustangs had them. I was curious about rarity and how much they go for. And if they had any application specific part #'s to know from whence it came
thanks