as long as you give proper care the pump should last the life of the engine.

the 390 will not fit unless you cut out the shock towers.
to do the you will have to install a new suspension (rod
and cutom motor sports and fatman fabrications have
kits to make it work). as you can see you are in for alot
of work. a better way to go would be to find some one who has a 67 - 70 mustang and but that instead, or swap a 351w in to your current car.

I get 80psi+ at idle in the morning with 10w-40

MY $0.02
You should not crank engine over to git oil up, make up or buy a pre-luber and drive oil pump with drill first to fill all oil galleys. Turn crank at 90 degreeintervels,
to fill all the galleys ,reset the dist to proper timing spot crank and fire and keep RPM's up to provide proper splash lub to cam and such,much better idea.

So did my 351W. Then within 10 miles the HV pump stripped the gears off the distributor and chipped 3 teeth on the camshaft. This is the 2nd time the HV pump ruined my engine. This may not be an issue with the 428 but DON'T put one in a 351W unless you just enjoy replacing camshafts on a daily basis.
Gary

I appreciate all of the responses. Sounds like everything should be OK.
I'm going to fire this baby up as soon as I get the driveshaft back next week. I'll probably post some sound files soon after...can't wait. This is my first FE build.
I also need to determine if I start it for the first time with open headers, or install the side pipes...ah, open headers!

First, 50psi sounds right for cranking, 70 to 80 psi with engine running is good. Cold oil is like molasses...thick and builds pressure...expect 20 to 25 psi at idle with engine hot. As for the Melling pump, the real experts say a HV pump is not necessary for a street engine, but I like a little insurance...just in case the pump can't build oil pressure to match the rate the engine is accelerating with respect to rpm...you get a head start with the 57MV. As far as using no muflers for start-up...not a problem...won't even be noisy unless you rev it, which you shouldn't do until it's broke in...either let it run at 1500 to 2000 to seat rings and lifters for 20 minutes, or get it out and drive it...not high rpms, but with a load on it for a bit...changing mph constantly. As far as the mufflers go, not using them won't hurt a thing. Again, the story about lack of back pressure hurting anything is hogwash. An engine is an air pump..more airflow...more horsepower..that's it, nothing else. I ran my 66 Mustang 289 with just the Y pipe for a check-out...quite quiet actually...but would have been noisy on the road under load. Take it easy and change the oil frequently until you hit about 1000 miles...then you can give it ...er...hmmm..."hell" as they say. From comments about problems I've had...use 10W30 mineral oil for break-in, then switch to 5W50 synthetic after that, unless you live in a perpetually warm climate, where 10W40 mineral oil seems to be OK.

The block in your car was cast August 9, 1967.

My 360 had a flow proablem at the rocker shafts after some work on it. Valve train made loud clackin noise, burned & leaked oil. I had just changed the oil and put lifters in it and it freeded up some sludge. Cleanend off the shaft and torqued down rails in 3 incraments with engine idlin so I could sneek up on 40lbs. lifters primed up and no more noise. Any ostruction is bad , sludge or a plug Im thinkin.

I ran a similar oil restriction system in my 428 CJ with no problems at all. Restricting oil there should not cause lifter clatter or any other valve train noises. My machinist/builder who built my current 427 thinks the restrictors are a good idea in an FE with oil system improvement modifications. He knows what he's doing. He has built racing/performance engines for many years. Currently is running Bonneville race '32 Ford with destroked & bored 427 cammer.

n/m

66 427 fairlane has no part number on the 2x4 intake. 67 had the c7ae number.
hope this helps.

n/m

I've sorta decided they did not grade engines. The mission of the blocks would most likely have been known prior to being cast.

The motor mount bosses on marine blocks would logically be flycut prior to boring, honing, and sonic checking the blocks, therefore 427 marine blocks would necessarily be "predefined" as marine blocks, not selected due to core shift, or whatever. Marine blocks apparently get their motor mount bosses flycut on the main FE production line - a line that destroys the side oiler passage to the extent the block can only be drilled as a center oiler.

Some race-only 427 blocks would probably have gotten a special softer iron alloy which would not necessarily be as durable on the street, but could handle extra pounding on the track.

I assume different nodular and nickel alloys would have been tried over the years, with the final batch of 427s (cast in 1972 at Ford's Australian foundry) getting a unique (and maybe new) "hi-phosphorous" iron alloy, an alloy I remain unfamiliar with as phosphorous is typically considered a contaminant in nodular iron.

The alloy selected would have logically been optimized for the application. Most 427 blocks, whether street, marine, or 427 industrial would have likely gotten their iron from the standard block line, because this alloy would be best suited to both durability and long life. I expect this alloy would have been either moderately nodular from the storage furnace, or the nodularity enhanced when pouring iron into the mold.

I'm still researching the layout structure if the Dearborn and Cleveland Foundries. I've learned a bunch about the Michigan Center already, and understand it had four grey iron lines and one nodular iron line. I'm also researching steels and irons, a topic which becomes interesting once the proper books are found.

One unique property of 427 blocks is that many of them from around 1965 through 1967 or so (my guess) also got stress relieved for about 24 hours in an oven prior to being machined. I doubt any marine or industrial motors of this period got the "oven" treatment (due to cost competition issues), but I expect many 427 street and 427 race blocks from this era did get the extra attention.

Shoe.

Most of the inland engines I have found here in the western states had complete assemblies just as would have been put in a Fairlane or Comet & date coded as such. They were very plentiful out here and complete boats could be purchased with good running engines for much less than engines alone were worth. Depending on the builder but some had a 1/2" pipe fitting in the end of each head but the rest of assy was off the shelf. Some reverse rotation engines were also built and would be found in more coastal areas like California.

An easy way to identify the 427 Blocks are the 63-67 were solid lifter only, Starting mid 65 they went to the Side oiler blocks. The also had the service replacement block which were hydraulic blocks (identified by lifter galley plugs at end of block) they also had ribs on side of block to help identify them as a higher nickel content. Any of the side oiler blocks can be identified by the cast in tube running down drivers side along with the 1/4 & 1/8" pipe plugs along with the special threaded plug on machined surface of block at front. All blocks had a date code stamped in them at the left front below oil filter adaptor. An easy way to identify a steel crank is to remove distributor and look down to see if it has threadin plugs or push in plugs with snaprings also the Steel crank would have different finish. This can also be used to see what rods are in the block with out any teardown.

what class racing will you be doing? Can you run headers? You can stroke a 428 crank some, but that requires a custom piston. You can get about 445 inches with a stock stroke crank. Can you run an aftermarket wheel? Can you run a solid roller?? I've got a 428 CJ stock eliminator 69 mustang that can only use bolt on traction bars. I've used the Calvert bars for about 7 years. They are the best you can buy for this type of application.
Rusty

My $0.02
Have not heard many good reports on Edelbrock carbs,I think I would go with a Holley 600-750 vacumn secondery ,you can leeve out heated spacer, but should git a phinolac{plastic} one 1/4" to1" with the 4 hole design to replace it.Also look around at swap meets and find a alumunum manafold to replace that cast iron backbraker, a Edelbrock RPM, Ford aluminum or such.