nm

So if the deck is 10.170, stroke is 3.786", rod is 6.488" (stock 390 values), that's zero-deck at 1.789" comp ht. If I use the 360 rod (6.540) then zero-deck is 1.737". PIstons I can find are 1.660, 1.740, 1.760, 1.776.

Seems like the Sterling low-comp truck piston (1.660) would be a long ways down the bore (0.129 or 0.077) and although this would lower the CR, it wouldn't help detonation resistance without the squish.

KB-Silvolite has a 391 piston with a ~30cc dish for a nice low CR and a 1.740 comp ht. This'd be +0.003 (above deck) without machining. Seems like a .040 thick head gasket would still give enough head-to-piston clearance in a low rpm truck engine. Thoughts?

45s are the modern replacement. Are you sure you're not running lean?

I just pulled some plugs out of a 69 ford van that be longs to a freand they looked like the old BF- 32 that where like new. I just looked they are Autolite-124. I my be wrong ,but I heard that besides motercraft ford still makes autolite.....But that company that make junk oil filters, fram, makes autolite too and that is what most auto part stores sell. I have all so found that menny a times certan stores will be out of fram-autolite- 45s and have to order them from there whairhouse and seance there is little demand for a colder plug they are not lested in most auto parts cataloge. So a yung buck couter person will till you they don't exest.

Replaced the plugs the on the car when I bought it with Autolite 45s ('66 T-Bird) and doubled the amount of spark knock. Replaced them with Autolite 32s and the knock returned to previous level or lower. Can't eliminate knock with plugs alone, compression is too high for today's gas.
According to an old Autolite book, the 45s are hotter than the 42s. The second digit is the heat range. I have no idea what the first digit is for. Shoe, do you know ?
Skip

The 360 rods will not be heavy enough so do not do it. Eagle rods can be bought for approx 600.00. So a better way would be to deck the block for cost of approx 100.00. The deck height should now be less than .020

I agree w/ PI/CJ that decking the block is a better option. You could also take some off the heads. I don't think I'd try to mill 0.050 off of the stock cast pistons. I would also recommend the Eagle rods. I've been using them for several years and feel they are the best insurance you can buy for an F.E. engine. I've seen countless race engines blow up with stock rods. Just my 2 cents.
Rusty

UNfortunately,this is the one area where ford came up short in designing the FE series engines.All 352-428 built from 1958-1976 are prone to this kind of tantrum since they didnt design the cooling system well enough to handel all that cast iron.In your case and mine (62 390 in a boid) 600 pounds worth of cast iron.The intake seems to weigh 100 lbs by itself.In trying to solve your problem,flush all the coolant passages including removing the block drain if possible.make sure the thermostat is opening and closing properly.check to see if the fan clutch is working and that you have a fan shroud to help channel the air through the radiator properly.Also,check your timing to see if it is accurate,if its to high,that will cause overheating and a blown head gasket.Look to possibly upgrade your fan to a flex-a-light fan,a four row radiator(aluminium if possible) edlebrock or wieand water pump(they reportedly out do stock by 100%) and also a high volume oil pump as well.I hope this has shed some light on your situation.As a relative new comer to tinkering with old fords and submiting post here,i too am getting some great tips on how to keep FE engines happy.

Bill, this is a simple one if running only 195deg. simply drain out some water as too full. You want the water level when cold to be just to top of fins in rad no more this will cure your problem. What happens is expansion of the water if the system is too full it pushes out more than proper amt making you keep adding more water/anti freeze. Look for some RedLine water wetter this helps the FE's a bunch also. The water level will cure your problem though

Make sure you don't fill the radiator all the way! I keep mine with just a little coolant over the coils. Leave the rest as air space. Your motor will run cooler & wont boil over after ya shut it off. I also added a bottle of redline water weter.

I just flushed and replaced the coolant in my 97. I too have heard of this water wetter stuff. I found it a pep boys. I noted the temperature before I drained and flush. put in the water wetter with the new antifreeze. Yes, this stuff did lower the temperature as noted on the temp. gauge after the engine was warmed up to operating temperature. Say's it will lower engine temperture by 20 degrees. Made a believer out of me.

Gerald, I'd first check the grounds and then using a multimeter start tracing the wires for voltage starting at the ignition switch. Most likely it probably a ground wire disconnected. Without the ad of a multimeter or home made 12V bulb with two wires on it (one end goes to the wire and the other to ground if the light lights you have 12Vs) to test of voltage you are hunting a needle in a hay stack. Why did you remove the old harness?

Sterling 381P from Summit is like $10.50 a hole I think, I dont know what it's compression ratio is though. but it is listed as a 410 piston.

My eyesight must be getting bad.The number on the pistons is L2188.

You're right - the 302's have the 50 oz balance
factor. got to have the right damper & flywheel.

Fords with the starter solenoid on the fender are bad about corroding the inside of the cable that goes from the solenoid to the starter. While it may still look good, sometimes it is the culprit.

Are you saying it won't turn over at all or just turns too slow to start,Do you have a good voltmeter and a anp meter to check current flow to starter?
You need to find voltage at starter when cranking cold and under hot and how much current the starter drags,also what are you trying to start lots of difference in current requirement in a low compression loose stocker and a tight 12-13-1race engine.

Need alot more information: like was the engine just rebuilt or did the problem start out of the blue. What type of ingition system (if points whats the gap and timing set at) make sure you have a good clean ground connection and you cable running to the starter is as far away from the exhaust as possible. Maybe it's one of the battery cables, but if not supply more information and you'll get more responses

This is typical of the FE's with the starter hot lead very close to the exhaust. Usually on a 427... there is actually a different starter for the 427 to solve this thermal problem. Are you running the cast iron headers on your 428?
See Greg Donahue's writeup on this for details as to

so how did you tweak the line pressure??