Are you talking about the dual four aluminum air filter? I have a K&N with my tri power air cleaner and it fits very nicely. Or are you asking about the single four filter? I have found the E-1650 K&N to be an excellent fit for the Ford HP open element filter used from '63 up. It's a tight fit but it does fit all the way to the edges. It's also quite tall. Fits nicely under the hood of my '68 F-100. But I suspect you're asking about the dual 4V. I haven't got the number handy on that one but mine is the 2" and as I said, it's a great fit in my '61 tri power air cleaner.

Yes, i need it for 2x4 air cleaner,..sorry i didnt put that in, .i was reading the messages on the "other FE forum", the answer was from 2 people that the K&N didnt fit right, and they were returned, too close to the center mounting rib, .....Mike, was the snug fit at the ring?, or at the outer edge? from what these other guys are saying it seems a little small, thanx for the comeback, John

Some of the parts won't fit, like possibly the oil filter adapter and oil pan - depending on the truck.

Note that the '76 will have EGR port on the carb-flange of the intake manifold (a port which feeds raw exhaust into the emissons-type carburetor), so you'll probably wanna select which of the two you prefer, and it may even have thermactor emissions.

The only major difference will be the very low compression pistons in the '76 truck, probably hanging around 7.5:1 or so.

There is an OK chance the 2-ton block will have reinforced crankwebs, but it probably does NOT have reinforced cylinder walls - that's pretty much limited to the FT, or maybe heavier FE trucks like the 500-series.

If your '67 has C6AE-R heads, you'll probably wanna use them, as they have big runners and work with pre-emissions-era race headers.

If you have C6AE-U, or C7AE-A heads, they're basically the same as the D2TE-AA heads on the heavy truck, so you can just select the ones in better shape. If you run headers, make sure you get the type that work with the lower-positioned runner of the emissions head.

Both engines are tough as hell, so either can be built to make serious horsepower.

Shoe.

if i were you i would drop that one intact and start to rebuild my old one with all of the goodies

...you upgrade the cap to a DuraSpark type and install the fatter Duraspark plug wires.

I'm just talking "book knowledge" right now - I don't have enough experience with this to verify my claims, but a larger plug gap only buys you a higher spark voltage - not a higher spark energy. Energy is what makes plasma - voltage only gets the plasma started. Since the plasma starts just fine at stock voltages, you don't need higher voltages.

Higher voltages work well in lean-burning emissions vehicles where it's tough to excite a reaction, and also in tough-to-combust racing fuel environments where either the fuel is tough to ignite (like alcohol) or there is just so much fuel it's tough to punch a spark through the dense mix (supercharged, nitromethane, etc).

By keeping the gap around .032-.035", you assure the plug will fire before the spark voltage climbs high enough to start leaking in other locations (like under the ozone-filled distributor cap or plug wire boot), and thus cause misfiring. A larger Duraspark cap spreads the plugwire electrodes farther apart, making it tougher to create problems under the cap when voltages climb.

If you're running gasoline and not climbing past 7000RPM, you can probably do well with a standard gap plug and a fairly stock coil. The Pertronix will definitely give you more spark energy than points could above 5000RPM. Because your spark 'energy" is determined by both the "dwell" time and the energy which the pink resistor wire under your dash allows through it into the coil, you won't gain anything by simply switching to a hotter coil. In fact, you can reduce the spark energy if you stick a coil in there which demands a lower ballast resistance wire than the car has. Ditto on changing the gap - a larger gap may give you higher voltage, but it may be a weak (cold) spark compared to the lower-voltage spark.

If you gotta have a wilder spark, you'll need to either bypass the pink resistor wire (the pink wire often starts at the fusebox and stops at the engine harness connector) and select a properly-sized (lower resistance) ballast resistor to replace it, or you need to buy an ignition amplifier (like the MSD) which uses the resistance wire as a timing reference only and draws it's spark energy straight from the battery.

JMO,
Shoe.

Great magazine, great article on the 428CJ........but I think their 50 Fastest "Pure Stock"is pure BS. "Stock" Nova running 12's! I would say they think we are stupid or someone is lying, but the kicker is they are fully aware of the extensive prepping on the car. They've done articles on it's modifications, but there it is "The Fastest Stock Musclecar!"

They asked for feedback on the article, and I gave them some LOL.
Mcmail@emapUSA.com

As I told them, I have nothing against modifying a muscle car, but don't penalize the purists either. They need to run different class for modifieds/stock appearing.

Tim B
1969 XR7 428 CJR convertible
http://members.aol.com/timbrands/index.html

I know the '71-'73 Mustang changed a little in the engine bay area compared the the earlier cars, but you might be able to fit that combo in there. It'd be a cool transplant, if you ask me.

The biggest pitfall with headers is they come in two header-flange styles. I'm not talking bolt positions (that's easy to fix), I'm talking about port position as referenced between the head and header (this can be a little tougher to adjust and still fit into the engine bay).

Make sure there is no port mismatch between the heads and the headers when you bolt them together. If there is a 5/16" mismatch, then you've got the wrong style head for the selected header and you'll have leaking gaskets and poor exhaust flow.

Also, if push comes to shove, avoid using the 390 unibody type exhaust manifold (sometimes called the 390GT exhaust manifold), as they don't flow well at all. 428CJ manifolds are fine, though I don't know whether they fit.

I suspect Crites Restorations has some answers for you, too.

Shoe.

http://www.fomoco.com/forummain/reply.asp?ID=18842&Reply=18840

The best way is to see if it is registered with SAAC. They may have the original and subsequent owners names plus a full history. I don't have the contact numbers, but I believe Rick Kopec is the prez.

You should be able to find them by searching the net.

If you Email the Shelby and Ford serial number I will look it up in my registry. I think SAAC's email is "saac.li.com".

It's an old design. Sold from the early 1070s through to 70s. It's single plane, but with small runners, small ports (gotta hog them out to match a CJ port) and a small plenum area. To get them to work with modified engines, you gotta port match, blend way in, enlarge the plenum area, cut back the runner walls in the plenum and use an open spacer. No, really! You would be better off saving up for a Ebok Performer RPM or, even better, a Blue Thinder PI. A CJ intake, PI, Sidewainder or F427 will work better on a mild engine, from what I understand. I did have a Streetmaster on a mild 351W and it worked OK, but I can tell with today's eyes that with more cam and some headwork I would have outgrown it.

Now, on a mild engine, it may work well. There no arguing the fact that it is a cool looking intake.

No. Do a search on Ford Edsel. You'll see that this topic has been thoroughly reviewed. It also makes no sense because, using that logic, why would ALL Ford engines cast in iron not be referred to as FE?

i think the 350 came from the length of the place he was working at if i remember right. many think the fe stands for ford edsel. well what if it stood for ford engine, or fast engine or flimsy engine?? would that make it any less of an engine or change it in any way to you??

John, What you need to do first is determine if you have the correct size plug using a set of dial or regular calipers. There will be a few thousandths interferance fit but not a lot. If correct size plug use a socket that fits the plug & tap it in with a hammer. (assuming you do not have a bushing driver). I have made a device for just what you are doing to test the pressure before installing pump as it takes an awful lot of work to find out by installing pump. Make a plate to cover end of pump that bolts to block use your oil pressure guage on center hole then use drill to turn pump counter clockwise while holding pickup in oil this will give you very close to running oil pressure when installed. a very low speed is needed to turn pump. This is assuming also your engine/brgs/clearance are ok